Smithsonian Magazine - 09.2026.pdf

解码长新冠的探索 拯救非洲最被厌恶的犬类

一战时期的男性驾驶者 美国被遗忘的罪恶之城

史密森尼 (Smithsonian)

2026年9月 + 10月 • SMITHSONIANMAG.COM

在这座庞大首都最新的博物馆中，从艺术家的故居到埋藏的遗迹，无数私密珍宝正等待着人们去发现……探索墨西哥城的私人世界 艺术家的故

与排名第一的邮轮公司共赏东南部航线

美国邮轮公司（American Cruise Lines）为宾客提供一系列精心设计的东南部航线。无论是探索佛罗里达州大河的水路、佛罗里达海岸与西基岛，还是墨西哥湾海岸，旅行者都能找到符合其兴趣的定制航程。每场航程均包含酒店住宿、每个港口的免费岸上游览、餐饮、船上娱乐以及小费和赏金，旨在让旅程流畅且令人难忘。

初次邮轮体验者

备受欢迎的 9 天佛罗里达墨西哥湾海岸与西基岛航线（圣彼得堡往返）是初次体验邮轮旅行的理想选择，能让游客对这个“阳光之州”有一个绝佳的初步认识。亮点包括各具特色的目的地，从马可岛宁静的河口到大沼泽地非凡的生态系统。旅行者可以体验西基岛充满活力的特质，那里色彩柔和的小屋和加勒比风情定义了岛上的氛围。在蓬塔戈尔达，附近的一家度假村在返回圣彼得堡之前提供放松的休憩之所，而圣彼得堡则拥有备受赞誉的博物馆和风景如画的海滨码头。

自然探索者

专为自然爱好者设计的 9 天佛罗里达大河之旅，将揭示该州多样化的水路、纯净的泉水和丰富的野生动物。航线在格林科夫泉的一次有讲解的气垫船之旅中，沿着历史悠久的圣约翰河的支流前行。一个罕见的机会让船只能够停靠在蓝色泉州立公园内部，从而进入一个珍贵的避难所，这里是西印度海牛的冬季避风港。航程继续沿着佛罗里达东北部的托洛马托河前行，那里未受破坏的景观和本土物种展示了该地区的生态丰富性。

更深度的旅行

为资深旅行者设计的 16 天佛罗里达大海岸与西基岛行程，提供了该地区最深度的旅程。宾客将访问圣奥古斯丁，在那里西班牙遗产通过历史街道和建筑得以保存，随后前往卡纳维拉尔角，这是一个以太空探索及其与大西洋海岸线联系而闻名的港口。在比斯坎岛和西基岛的停留揭示了宁静的岛屿环境，而蓬塔戈尔达和圣彼得堡则展现了繁茂的花园和水岸景观，为旅程画上令人难忘的句号。

文化好奇旅行者 对于那些被历史、美食和海岸传统吸引的人来说，在彭萨科拉和新奥尔良之间的 8 天墨西哥湾海岸航线提供了一次穿越该地区著名遗产的旅程。在抵达新奥尔良之前，探索彭萨科拉的军事过去、莫比尔的狂欢节传统、比洛克西的海鲜文化以及海洋之泉的艺术精神；而在新奥尔良，爵士乐充盈在法国区，受墨西哥湾启发的美食正等待着您。

无论您选择哪条航线，高度个性化的服务、全包式邮轮体验和精心策划的岸上游览，都将为您创造从始至终的卓越体验。欲了解更多关于美国邮轮公司（American Cruise Lines）的信息，请致电邮轮专家 800-460-6187 或立即联系您的旅行顾问。

佛罗里达海岸邮轮之旅

AMELIA ISLAND RIVER CRUISE 岸上观光 ★ 佛罗里达州，阿米莉亚岛 在这场带有解说词的邮轮之旅中，探索阿米莉亚岛和伊根溪（Eagan Creek）的后水域，了解佛罗里达州最古老的城市之一——费南迪纳海滩（Fernandina Beach）的历史。亮点包括克林奇堡（Fort Clinch）、阿米莉亚岛灯塔，当然还有从这条美丽的水道欣赏岛屿风光。

SEAPLANE ADVENTURE TO DRY TORTUGAS SHORE EXCURSION ★ 佛罗里达州，西基岛 在佛罗里达州西基岛以西 70 英里处，坐落着北美最难以抵达的国家公园之一——干龟群岛（Dry Tortugas）。该公园以其海洋生物、海盗传说和纯粹的原始之美而闻名。

亨利·弗拉格勒（Henry Flagler）在 19 世纪后期通过建造宏伟的酒店并恢复这座城市的历史魅力，塑造了佛罗里达州圣奥古斯丁的美学风格。他受西班牙启发的建筑和优雅的设计赋予了这座城市独特的外观。弗拉格勒的影响力助力创造了定义今日圣奥古斯丁的持久之美。

locommotion?

每一块机械表都有一个摆轮，但并非所有摆轮都一样。C12 Loco 的“自由弹簧”摆轮（及游丝）不仅仅是手表的一个零件，它更是主角。它被安置在显示时间的表盘下方，位于色彩精妙且呈阶梯状的主板上，其迷人的摆动由我们的自产机芯——Calibre CW-003 驱动，该机芯采用手动上链、手工精整的结构，可提供六天动力储存和天文台级精度。Loco 是一项钟表制造挑战，我们大概是有点“loco”（疯狂）才会去尝试，所以我们为此拍了一部纪录片。感兴趣吗？您可以在 YouTube 上找到它。只需确保在价格揭晓时您正坐着。

扫描二维码，观看完整的 (com)motion。

做你的研究

史密森尼学会

一只马蹄螺从佛罗里达州萨尼贝尔岛（Sanibel Island）的壳中钻出。萨尼贝尔的海滩是贝壳猎人的天堂，但移走活体软体动物是违法的。

专题报道

42

墨西哥城的 奇妙博物馆 这座古老大都市的最新成员跨越数千年，涵盖了令人惊叹的多样化学科 作者：Tony Perrottet

58 谁住在壳里？

那些被海滩拾荒者觊觎的闪亮宝藏，最初是许多迷人生物的家 摄影：Devon Matthews 文字：Jennie Rothenberg Gritz

70

破解长新冠之谜

科学家们正全力帮助那些在感染病毒数年后仍深受其苦的数百万患者 作者：Mike Mariani

84 戏剧天赋

西班牙白头鸭以其求偶时的滑稽动作和回归故事脱颖而出 摄影：Javier Aznar González de Rueda 文字：Cheryl Katz

86

欢迎来到温泉城

复兴阿肯色州这座风景优美的水疗小镇，在拉斯维加斯成名之前，黑帮精英曾在此纵情狂欢 作者：Richard Grant

98

漫游空间

环境的改变为处于极度濒危状态的非洲野狗提供了生存机会 作者：Helen Sullivan

110 西线最快的男人

在第一次世界大战初期，一支无畏的驾驶员团队帮助改变了现代冲突的面貌 作者：Joshua Hammer

18

前言

09 美国偶像：Rocky at 50 + Four foes to match the era

12 古代生命：洞穴画廊 + 抽象思维的诞生

20 民权：马歇尔计划

35 起源：背包

38 国家宝藏 米奇·曼特（Mickey Mantle）的新秀卡开启了收藏文化

40 书籍：加利福尼亚的金矿仍在引发热潮

专栏

05 机构知识，作者：Lonnie G. Bunch III

06 讨论

122 纵横字谜 我们的每月谜题

128 咨询史密森尼 您有疑问 我们有专家

封面：在卡罗之家博物馆（Kahlo House Museum）展出的家族传家宝中，有一张弗里达·卡罗（Frida Kahlo）的小相框照片。摄影：Alicia Vera

以史密森尼的方式环游世界

开启一段充实的少人数团体之旅，与史密森尼之旅（Smithsonian Journeys）的专家和导游一起深入探索全球迷人的角落。在所有七大洲中选择多种旅行风格。

访问我们的网站以获取更多信息并申请免费目录。

开始探索！

史密森尼之旅 (Smithsonian JOURNEYS)

让旅程开始 / SmithsonianJourneys.org

秘书长 Lonnie G. Bunch III

理事会

大法官 首席大法官 John G. Roberts Jr.

主席 Hon. Franklin D. Raines

副主席 Mr. Roger W. Ferguson Jr.

成员

副总统 JD Vance （当然成员）

Hon. John Boozman

Hon. Catherine Cortez Masto

Hon. Gary Peters

Hon. Carlos A. Giménez

Hon. Doris Matsui

Hon. Adrian Smith

Hon. Barbara M. Barrett

Ms. Toni Bush

Mr. Michael Govan

Mr. Michael M. Lynton

史密森尼国家委员会

Ms. Michele Hooper，主席 Ms. Anne MacMillan Pedrero，副主席 Mr. Todd Krasnow，副主席

国家委员会

Ms. Barbara Bonessa（当然成员）, Mr. Harold M. Brierley, Mr. John F. Brock III, Mrs. Ellen Bruss, Mr. Steven A. Cahillane, Mr. Perry Cohen, Ms. Donelle Dadigan, Mr. Robert DeBenedetto, Mr. Matthew Finick, LL COOL J, Ms. Alice Jacobs, Mrs. Ashley Duchossois Joyce, Mr. Dale LeFebvre, Mrs. María Amalia León, Mr. A. Reid Marsh, Dr. Seth L. Matarasso, Ms. Stephanie Mellin, Mrs. Jo Michalski, Ms. Kyra Li Ai Miller, Mrs. Cheryl Neal, Ms. Emilie M. Ogden, Mr. Pradip Patiath, Ms. Sue Payne, Mrs. Sarah Perot, Ms. Joyce A. Phillips, Dr. Jorge G. Puente, Mr. Roger Jerome Sit, Mr. DeMaurice F. Smith, Ms. Claire Spaht, Ms. Diana Strandberg, Ms. Naoma Tate, Ms. Donna F. Zarcone

荣誉成员

Hon. Max N. Berry, Mr. L. Hardwick Caldwell III, Dr. G. Wayne Clough, Ms. Sakurako D. Fisher, Mrs. Patricia Frost, Mrs. Jean B. Mahoney, Mr. Paul Neely, Mr. Wilbur L. Ross Jr., Mr. Lloyd G. Schermer, Dr. David J. Skorton, Mrs. Gay F. Wray

一个梦想的实现

国家非裔美国人历史文化博物馆的故事，早在十年前它正式开馆之前就已然开启

“他们所有漂泊了几个世纪的声音，终于在这里找到了家。”

十年前——在他去世四年前——美国众议员约翰·刘易斯（John Lewis）在国家非裔美国人历史文化博物馆的落成典礼上发表了这段话。那场仪式是我生命中最难忘的日子之一。该博物馆的早期支持者乔治·W·布什（George W. Bush）宣布，“一个伟大的国家不会掩盖自己的历史。”传奇歌手史蒂夫·汪达（Stevie Wonder）和帕蒂·拉贝尔（Patti LaBelle）进行了表演。而时任美国首位非裔美国总统的巴拉克·奥巴马（Barack Obama）提醒我们，“我们的荣耀不仅源于最显而易见的胜利，更源于我们如何从悲剧中夺取胜利。”

2014年，时任国家非裔美国人历史文化博物馆馆长的朗尼·G·邦奇三世（Lonnie G. Bunch III）视察项目现场。

那一天代表了十多年的努力、一个多世纪的梦想以及半个千年的历史。“人们说这是十周年纪念，”博物馆首任副馆长金莎莎·霍尔曼·康威尔（Kinshasha Holman Conwill）告诉我，“但实际上这是二十周年。”

在博物馆开馆时那些星光熠熠的庆祝活动和喧嚣之前，NMAAHC 仅由一个规模极小但雄心勃勃的团队组成。2006年的某一天，史密森尼学会的传播总监伊芙琳·利伯曼（Evelyn Lieberman）拿着相机，建议霍尔曼·康威尔和我（时任博物馆馆长）从美国历史博物馆的阳台上，看向街道对面那片即将兴建新馆的空地。我依然记得当时看着那个场地时心中涌起的兴奋感。

接下来的十年充满了类似的、不为人知且未被歌颂的时刻，而这些时刻对于博物馆的创建至关重要。同事们昼夜不停地工作；捐赠者和顾问随时随地提供帮助；志愿者们在建筑还没建成之前就一次次出现，这坚定了我们的信念：这里将成为所有美国人的场所。

在开幕活动的最后，我们没有剪彩，而是邀请了邦纳（Bonner）家族四代人共同敲响一口历史悠久的教堂钟。99岁的露丝·邦纳（Ruth Bonner）——她的父亲出生于奴隶制时代——与她7岁的曾孙女克里斯汀（Christine）一起拉响了“自由之钟”，与此同时，华盛顿特区及全国各地的数十家教堂也加入了他们，同步敲响钟声。

当我询问博物馆前项目总监琳恩·蔡斯（Lynn Chase）关于开馆最深刻的回忆时，她回想起仪式前一天晚上走向汽车的情景，望着闪闪发光的博物馆以及为第二天准备而布置的新闻摄像机阵列。“我觉得自己正站在这座城市最重要的街角，”她说，“想到我们所取得的成就，我感动得流下了眼泪。”

十年后的今天，我依然有同样的感觉。

史密森尼真正扩展了我们对突出我国以及更广泛世界的过去与现在的主题的理解、知识和意识。

米米·布罗德斯基·陈费尔德（Mimi Brodsky Chenfeld） / 俄亥俄州哥伦布市

劳拉·布雷（Laura Bray） / 德克萨斯州博恩

祝贺出版“美国250周年”特刊！我非常享受阅读每一页的内容，这让我对美国所创造的、所是的以及所承诺的有了更深层的认识。

史密森尼感谢您的订阅，您的支持助力史密森尼学会履行其独特的使命：探索自然世界，赞美艺术，并将美国人与其历史联系起来。

X (TWITTER): @SmithsonianMag INSTAGRAM: @smithsonianmagazine FACEBOOK: smithsonianmagazine

大卫·布莱（David Boulé） / 加利福尼亚州托伦斯

“我读完了整本杂志，每一个部分都令我印象深刻。”

我非常赞赏你们决定报道玛格丽特·富勒（《女性自立指南》，2026年夏季号）。她敦促男性“消除人为障碍”的呼吁在当时非常超前，即便在150多年后的今天依然具有现实意义。

超前于时代

毫无疑问，2026年夏季号是《史密森尼》杂志有史以来最出色（或者说是 GOAT，史上最强）的一期！我读完了整本杂志，每一个部分都令我印象深刻。几乎每一页都让我学到了新鲜且迷人的知识，从关于托马斯·潘恩的启发性文章（《星空下的共和国》）开始，一直读到“最后的话”。

美国250周年

范迪·布拉多 | 北卡罗来纳州，达勒姆

感谢你们带来了这本如瑰宝般的杂志。我期待着每一期的出版。每一篇文章都富有信息量，给人以启发，且文笔优美。其内容……

片面的观点

理查德·诺顿·史密斯的文章《伍德罗·威尔逊大胆的国内阵线》（2026年夏季号）简直是对一个完全不配得到赞美的人的圣徒传。史密斯赞扬了威尔逊的各项优点，而对其严重的缺陷仅做了几处轻描淡写的简短评论。他几乎忽略了威尔逊公开的种族偏见，这一过错使我们国家的种族进步至少停滞了一代人之久。他完全忽略了威尔逊阻挠女性选举权的事实，而威尔逊最终在别无选择的情况下才勉强接受。史密斯甚至几乎没有间接提到臭名昭著的1918年《煽动法》，该法案是我们国家历史上最严重的侵犯公民自由的行为之一。

卡尔曼·巴森 | 新泽西州，萨默维尔

不仅仅是文字

我很高兴看到一篇关于塞阔雅（《一种新型文字》，2026年夏季号）的文章。他创造了一套书写系统，并教会了部落的大多数人读写切罗基语。不久，切罗基语报纸开始以英语和切罗基语双语出版，帮助切罗基人在困苦时期团结起来。《切罗基凤凰报》至今仍以这两种书写系统出版。

凯伦·库迪·库珀 | 俄克拉荷马州，塔勒夸

勘误：在《救济剧场》（2026年夏季号）中，我们将牙医威廉·T.G. 莫顿的去世年份错误地写成了1860年。他实际上死于1868年。

《历史之船》（2026年4/5月号）对乔治·华盛顿担任大陆军总司令期间的薪资描述有误。事实上，他没有领取固定薪水，而是报销相关费用。

联系我们

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全年庆祝美国建国250周年

在弗吉尼亚州的“历史三角区”重新连接美国的起源故事。除了标志性的景点和主题公园的刺激体验，威廉斯堡还提供一种环保的度假方式：这里有可步行的历史城镇、自然公园和步道、风景优美的划船点、可持续餐饮、复古和升级改造购物店，以及环保的住宿场所。

重新发现威廉斯堡。美国旅程的起点。

上流社会，现已降价

终于，为价值而造，而非为虚假地位而造的奢侈品

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Magnificat II 拥有那种令人深思的设计，让人回想起那些罕见的、拥有 150 年历史的月相表，而这类表曾经只能在收藏家的奖杯室玻璃柜中见到。

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序言

作者 Chris Carra -

摄影 Vincent Tullo

美国偶像

在打击中 崛起

在《洛基》首次亮相 50 年后，美国依然支持他

这座由 A. Thomas Schomberg 于 1980 年创作的著名青铜雕像最近在费城艺术博物馆内展出。

美国偶像

1975 年 3 月 24 日，俄亥俄州的里奇菲尔德体育馆（Richfield Coliseum）人群爆发出了巨大的欢呼声，当时查克·韦普纳（Chuck Wepner）在距离终场铃声仅剩 19 秒时撞在了围绳上。很少有人预料到这位职业拳手能顶住穆罕默德·阿里（Muhammad Ali）几轮的进攻，更不用说如此接近撑满全部 15 回合——而且在某个时刻竟然有能力将冠军击倒在画布上。在洛杉矶的一家电影院通过闭路电视观看完这场比赛后不久，一位名叫西尔维斯特·史泰龙（Sylvester Stallone）的年轻有志演员深受触动，开始撰写剧本。

史泰龙在短短三天多一点的时间里完成了初稿，讲述了洛基·巴尔博亚（Rocky Balboa）的虚构故事。洛基是来自费城的一名街头拳击手，在美国建国两百周年期间，他获得了一个机会，在一次表演赛中挑战张扬的重量级世界冠军阿波罗·克里德（Apollo Creed）。史泰龙为自己写了洛基这个角色——为了确保由他出演主角，他拒绝了联合艺术家公司（United Artists）购买电影版权的报价，据报道

“当人们为洛基欢呼时，他们其实是在为自己欢呼。”

价值 $360,000. 制作公司由于担心起用无名之辈，最终以较低的价格向史台龙支付了费用，随后以约 100万美元 的低廉预算批准了电影的拍摄。1976 年电影上映后，《洛基》发挥出了远超其规模的影响力，票房收入超过 2.25亿美元。五十年后，这位顽强的英雄依然是美国坚韧精神的代名词。

”

就像韦普纳一样，洛基在这次一生一次的比赛中并没有真正的获胜机会，但他坚持战斗到底的决心使他成为了电影史上最受喜爱的弱者之一。在 20 世纪 70 年代滞胀的经济低迷时期，史台龙用他那含糊不清、血迹斑斑的形象，将工人阶级的毅力具体化，引起了观众和评论家的共鸣，在第 49 届学院奖中获得 10 项提名并赢得 3 项大奖——其中包括最佳影片。

在《奎迪》（2015）中，年长的史台龙饰演的洛基通过训练阿多尼斯·约翰逊（迈克尔·B·乔丹）传递了火炬。

这部电影在不到一个月的时间里完成了实地拍摄，导演约翰·G·阿维尔森采取了一种半游击式的拍摄方式。关键场景在没有许可证的情况下拍摄，不知情的当地人被用作群众演员，故事则由一群基本不为人知的演员演绎；在演职员表中，饰演洛基那个脾气暴躁的教练米基的伯吉斯·梅雷迪斯是最出名的人物。这种亲密且真实的感觉——更像是一部体育纪录片而非剧本电影——成为了这部电影最大的优势之一。1977 年《纽约时报》的一篇文章报道称，许多电影院的观众几乎将这部电影视为一场现场体育赛事：他们“为他们的英雄呐喊，在每一次重击其面部时发出痛苦的叫声，在他打出有力的一拳时欢呼，并在一切结束时大声喝彩”。

一些观众甚至将洛基的弱者逆袭故事与史台龙在现实生活中的惊人崛起混为一谈——史台龙在一年左右的时间里，从一名长期挣扎的演员变成了获得奥斯卡提名的明星和编剧。但正如史台龙 1990 年 9 月告诉《名利场》的那样：“洛基不是我……人们并不是在回应西尔维斯特·史台龙的政治观点和信仰。当他们欢呼时，他们是在为洛基欢呼。而当他们为洛基欢呼时，他们是在为自己欢呼。”

在整个六部电影系列中，史台龙以一种少有人预料到的庄重感来对待这个主角。在拍摄《洛基 3》之前，他与传奇健美运动员弗兰科·哥伦布一起训练，据报道将体脂率降低到了 2.8%——低于健康阈值。他在《洛基 4》中的身体冒险则更进一步：在拍摄期间，史台龙让体重 240 磅的武术家多尔夫·伦格伦（饰演巴尔博亚的苏联对手伊万·德拉戈）猛击他的胸口，力度之大导致他被送入重症监护室观察了数日。

半个世纪过去了，电影主题曲——比尔·孔蒂创作的《Gonna Fly Now》中小号的号角声，依然是一首激励人心的决心赞歌，从更衣室到总统竞选集会中都能听到。费城艺术博物馆可能收藏了超过 240,000 件物品，但其最著名的艺术品是一尊史台龙饰演洛基的雕像，长期以来在东入口外的标志性位置占据一席之地，那里有 72 级石阶——洛基胜利训练跑的终点——至今仍是粉丝们的朝圣之地。2025 年，费城国际机场揭幕了一尊十英尺高的洛基青铜像以迎接抵达该市的旅客，承认他与自由钟或芝士牛肉三明治一样，是费城至关重要的象征。电影评论家马特·佐勒·赛茨称第一部《洛基》是“有史以来最完美的电影”，他在 2024 年为 RogerEbert.com 撰文写道，“1976 年的原版《洛基》已成为流行文化潜意识的一部分，其地位与《卡萨布兰卡》和《生活多美好》一样稳固。”

洛基的拳击生涯在《洛基·巴尔博亚》（2006）这部电影中画上了句号，但斯塔隆创造的这个宇宙仍在继续扩张。衍生剧集《奎朵》（Creed）系列讲述了阿波罗之子阿多尼斯的事迹，如今已成为一个独立的系列，第四部作品目前正在开发中。为了配合洛基上映 50 周年，斯塔隆将于 9 月出版其名为《阶梯》（The Steps）的自传，随后在 11 月将推出一部传记电影。由安东尼·伊波利托饰演斯塔隆的《我扮演洛基》（I Play Rocky）将记录这位电影传奇人物不寻常的成长历程。

尽管洛基已经从目前的《奎朵》系列中淡出，但他的影响力依然深远。正如该系列的主演迈克尔·B·乔丹所说，斯塔隆和“洛基的基因贯穿了整个系列……我认为，那种弱者反击的精神，连接着我们每个人内心深处的弱者情结”。

真正的反派

洛基的对手们都具有夸张的个性，且每一个都定义了一个时代 作者：David J. Roth

《洛基 2》

阿波罗·克里德（Apollo Creed，卡尔·韦瑟斯 饰）在第一部电影中保住了冠军腰带，但在这一部续作中，绝望感——冠军渴望一场更决定性的胜利，而洛基则为了维持生计——促使两人进行了一场残酷的重赛。阿波罗是洛基完美的对照组：充满魅力，对成功感到有些厌倦，并且太快地轻视了一个工人阶级的粗糙拳手。

《洛基 3》

尽管霍克·霍根（Hulk Hogan）在电影早期的角色是一名叫作“雷唇”（Thunderlips）的摔角手，但洛基在这里真正的对手是崭露头角的格斗家詹姆斯·“俱乐部”·朗（James "Clubber" Lang），由 Mr. T 饰演。（现实生活中的冠军乔·弗雷泽和厄尼·谢弗曾被考虑出演此角色。）20世纪80年代那个肌肉发达、意气风发的洛基，与70年代那个艰苦奋斗的版本截然不同，而朗则证明了自己是一个恰到好处的、漫画式反派。

《洛基 4》

洛基最邪恶的宿敌是苏联冠军伊万·德拉戈（Ivan Drago，多夫·伦格伦 饰），他在一场表演赛中导致克里德受了致命伤。德拉戈是冷战后期的完美反派：他被精确地设定为要“击碎”洛基，他注射性能增强药物，并服从冰冷的政府操纵者。德拉戈带来的后续影响深远：他除掉克里德的情节，为瑞安·库格勒和迈克尔·B·乔丹的《克里德》系列电影奠定了基础。

《洛基·巴尔博亚》

在《洛基》上映三十年后，该系列在 2006 年回到了原点，洛基再次面对另一位同样轻视他的冠军，进行了一场胜算渺茫的比赛。这一次，对手是梅森·“直线”·迪克森（Mason "The Line" Dixon），由前轻重量级冠军安东尼奥·塔弗（Antonio Tarver）饰演。结果再次是以判定胜出，冠军依然是头衔持有者——但对于这位以自己名字命名的“人民冠军”来说，这是一次精神上的胜利。

在西班牙的埃尔卡斯蒂略洞穴（Cave of El Castillo）中，红色赭石绘画描绘了来自旧石器时代晚期的屋顶状形状。

活着的壁画

史前绘画并非静止，而是充满动态与生机——尤其是在火把光照下

去年，我跟随两名考古学家穿过一道沉重的金属门，进入一个名为埃尔卡斯蒂略（El Castillo）的洞穴，它位于西班牙北部。艺术家们在 13,000 到 41,000 年前可能多次访问该洞穴，仅凭火把和简陋的灯具来帮助他们避免危险的坠落，以及避开那些爪子能撕裂石头的洞熊。他们进入最深、最暗的洞室，不仅刻画和绘制了动物，还绘制了红色圆盘、手绘模板和几何图案——其中近 3,000 个至今仍清晰可见。“如果说旧石器时代的记录是一本书，那么在埃尔卡斯蒂略，我们几乎拥有每一个章节，”其中一名考古学家爱德华多·帕拉西奥·佩雷斯（Eduardo Palacio Pérez）告诉我，“我们几乎涵盖了欧洲旧石器时代岩画的所有主题。”

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远古生命

如今，被称为“黑暗地带”的区域（自然光无法到达的地方）已不再那么危险。洞熊在 24,000 年前就已灭绝，而埃尔卡斯蒂略洞穴在 20 世纪 50 年代为游客安装了楼梯和电灯。我们穿过第一个大洞室，转向一条通常禁止游客进入的通道。我们停下来欣赏所谓的“多色面板”（Polychrome Panel），或者说该面板

为了创作埃尔卡斯蒂略的手绘艺术，我们的祖先可能将颜料含在口中，然后喷出颜料来为他们的手制作模板。

是什么驱动史前人类在洞穴中创作艺术，且往往要冒巨大的个人风险？

……叠加面板（Panel of Superimpositions），在数千年的时间里，许多艺术家在墙上密集地绘制了手绘模板以及用黑色木炭、红色、橙色和棕色赭石勾勒的动物轮廓，这些色彩已在不同程度上褪色。我很想将自己的手掌压在某个模板上，与 30,000 年前的人握手，但当然，这是被禁止的。“对于学者来说，墙壁是神圣的。你不能触摸任何东西，”另一位考古学家、西班牙坎塔布里亚大学（University of Cantabria）教授迭戈·加拉特（Diego Garate）说道，“但显然，对于旧石器时代的人来说，情况恰恰相反。他们与墙壁之间存在着亲密的关系。”（事实上，这种关系如此亲密，以至于马克斯·普朗克研究所的研究人员最近能够从一些装饰过的洞穴墙壁中提取出古代人类的 DNA。）

作者简介

本·克雷尔（Ben Crair）经常为《纽约客》（New Yorker）、《纽约》（New York）杂志和《彭博商业周刊》（Bloomberg Businessweek）撰写科学类文章。

是什么驱动史前人类在洞穴中创作艺术，且往往要冒巨大的个人风险？自从 1879 年在西班牙北部的阿尔塔米拉（Altamira）洞穴天花板上发现精美的红黑相间野牛图以来，这个问题一直困扰并分化着考古学家。当加拉特在一百多年后开始他的研究时，许多学者仍在试图破解这个密码。不同的理论曾接连流行又过时——比如这些动物是不同氏族的图腾，是男女生育能力的象征，或者是萨满在意识改变状态下留下的标记。许多学者认为，洞穴艺术的出现是智人（Homo sapiens）在行为上变得现代的时刻，是新进化出的符号化和抽象思维能力的产物。

随着加拉特访问西班牙和法国更多的洞穴，并帮助在巴斯克地区发现了大约半打装饰洞穴，他不再那么好奇艺术家的意图，而更多地思考他们的

通常这么多宝藏的地方会有一个 X 标记位置。

在这里，发现无价之宝相当简单。它们存在于我们令人眼花缭乱的海事博物馆、策划精良的商店、风格迥异的艺术家以及每一个角落。高端的饕餮美食、充满活力的现场音乐场景以及迷人的街头艺人，这些仅仅是佛罗里达群岛（The Florida Keys）等待您发掘的无数财富中的一部分。无需特殊地图。

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古代生命

在这些遗址中的体验。如今，在像埃尔卡斯蒂略（El Castillo）这样环境脆弱的洞穴中，没有人敢点燃冒烟的火把或触摸墙壁，因此加拉特（Garate）在大约十年前很高兴在一条拥挤的巴斯克海滩附近发现了一个洞穴，那里唯一的艺术作品是一些近期的涂鸦。“从考古学的角度来看，那里没有任何有趣的东西，”他说。加拉特第一次在那座洞穴中点燃火把时，火焰仅能照亮大约十英尺左右的距离，闪烁的红光不断移动，与阴影共舞。这与使用手电筒的白色光束探索洞穴是完全不同的体验。“洞穴艺术不像墙上的画，”他说。

其他考古学家也将注意力从孤立的绘画和刻痕转向了洞穴艺术的其他组成部分，如光线、位置、声音和触感。他们的研究表明，洞穴艺术比我们大多数人在照片中，甚至在像维尔纳·赫尔佐格（Werner Herzog）拍摄的《遗忘之梦》（Cave of Forgotten Dreams）——一部关于法国南部肖维洞穴（Chauvet Cave）的2010年纪录片——中所感受到的要动态且沉浸得多。一对人类学家将洞穴艺术称为“电影的前奏”，而另一个团队则将其比作“现代装置艺术”，它“将艺术家 / 观众及其物理环境整合在一种不断变化的双向关系中”。在他们看来，关于洞穴艺术起源的认知解释忽略了其感官层面。

我想在埃尔卡斯蒂略感受一下这一点。一种理论认为，艺术家在开始描绘动物之前的数千年里一直在制作手绘模板：洞穴中的一个房间被称为“之手天花板”（Ceiling of Hands）。十年前，一位名叫保罗·佩蒂特（Paul Pettitt）的英国考古学家及其几位同事分析了墙上手印的位置。他们发现，这些模板并非随意地拍在洞穴各处；艺术家在留下标记之前仔细审视了洞穴墙壁。大多数手绘模板位于墙壁的裂缝或起伏处附近，通常处于抓握位置或凹形曲线处。“模板的位置表明，人们使用双手来稳定探索者的身体，”该团队指出。显然，即使在约35,000年前开始描绘动物时，艺术家们依然与洞穴墙壁保持着这种密切的关系。

在多色面板（Polychrome Panel）前，加拉特和帕拉西奥·佩雷斯（Palacio Pérez）使用激光笔帮我辨认那些在数千年间褪色的动物轮廓。它们在墙上以不同的尺寸和方向出现，就像饼干模具在面团中留下的形状，但它们的位置并不像看起来那样随机。

在埃尔卡斯蒂略一个像野牛头的岩石凸起处，一位史前艺术家通过简单的标记勾勒出了眼睛和鼻孔。

与手印一样，许多动物的布局经过精心设计，以融入洞穴的自然特征。一只巨大的野牛背部似乎因为墙上的一个凸起而肌肉隆起。“一些研究人员认为，这个岩石表面暗示了动物的形状，”帕拉西奥·佩雷斯告诉我。在其他洞穴中，艺术家利用墙上的裂缝来完成麋鹿的鹿角，利用棱脊来暗示马的背线。动物有时似乎从裂缝中出现又退回其中——在闪烁火把投射的移动阴影中，这种效果可能看起来几乎像是在活动。

现代观众长期以来一直赞赏洞穴艺术家利用自然特征的方式，但直到

“

我们可以在计算机中点燃火把，用虚拟现实来解决这个问题。

”

直到最近，并没有多少人考虑这些自然特征是如何启发艺术创作本身的。佩蒂特（Pettitt）和考古学家德里克·霍奇森（Derek Hodgson）认为，旧石器时代猎人的视觉系统进化到了能够检测大型且部分被遮挡动物的轮廓——这使得他们在黑暗且令人迷失方向的洞穴自然形态中，更容易感知到类动物的形状。丹麦奥胡斯大学（Aarhus University）的考古学家伊齐·威舍（Izzy Wisher）也得出了类似的结论。她和同事在 2023 年写道：“一个人对某些刺激（特定的动物、面孔或物体）的视觉熟悉度，可能会塑造视觉系统，使其将模糊或碎片化的刺激感知为唤起熟悉形式的图像。”

也许艺术家们深入洞穴最黑暗的部分，就是为了体验这种感官的混淆。他们与其说是在为自己的精神构思寻找空白画布，不如说是在寻求与洞穴对话的动物形态。黑暗地带并非孤独且毫无生机之地；

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那里充满了幻象与邂逅，而艺术本身成为了这些经历的记录。佩蒂特和霍奇森将黑暗地带称为“模拟狩猎环境”，它激发了人类视觉系统倾向于感知的那类图像。

我们继续穿过一条有更多手绘模板的长隧道，来到一个巨大的洞室，其中心的石笋上刻有“野牛人”——一只看起来像人一样用后腿行走、像在走路的野牛。在旧石器时代，人类的描绘非常罕见，但一些学者推测，这个形象可能代表一名穿着兽皮的萨满。

艺术家凿掉了部分石头以创造三维纹理，使该形象的膝盖和大腿更加清晰——一些学者认为，他或她还修改了石笋的顶部以创造戏剧效果。加拉特（Garate）将手电筒光照在石笋上，后方的洞壁上出现了一个看起来像双足野牛剪影的影子。加拉特移动手电筒，影子人物似乎在行走。佩蒂特写道，在旧石器时代对深洞的利用中，“没有比这更清晰的例子能体现洞穴地形、阴影与艺术之间的相互作用了”。

但加拉特不确定这种效果是否是刻意为之。他的手电筒光束射程很远，但一个直径十英尺的闪烁火把光圈可能不足以产生同样的投影。

为了避免使墙壁变黑，埃尔卡斯蒂略（El Castillo）禁止使用火把，但加拉特说，这个问题可以通过另一种方式解决：“我们可以在计算机中点燃火把，用虚拟现实来解决这个问题。”加拉特经常使用洞穴的数字化重建来回答这类问题，而威舍在 2023 年发表的一篇论文中，利用虚拟现实模拟了另一个洞穴（名为 Las Monedas，与埃尔卡斯蒂略位于同一座山上）中的火把光线。

我告诉加拉特，那个投影的影子对我来说太像野牛了，不像是偶然。他耸了耸肩说：“洞穴暗示了很多东西。”我们离开洞室，再次离开路径，进入一个低到必须弯腰才能进入的小壁龛。考古学家想向我展示一件被称为“埃尔卡斯蒂略之面具”的艺术品。这个面具位于一块从天花板垂下的岩帘上，其自然的大小和形状就像一个野牛头。艺术家仅画了一个黑圈来暗示眼睛，一个黑短线来暗示鼻孔。帕拉西奥·佩雷斯（Palacio Pérez）指出：“就像一个野牛头从墙里钻出来一样。”

在我见过所有的具象艺术作品中，它是最简单的——仅有两个黑色标记——但却最能唤起情感。感觉就像那头野牛本身在等待访客，以便他能给出建议或听取忏悔。这件作品召唤出了一种存在感。它不需要任何改变意识的药物，只需要人类感官的自然摸索，一次与空间和岩石的亲密邂逅。这件艺术品或许是私人的，但艺术家并不孤独。

从野牛到拜伦

旧石器时代艺术的证据 揭示了人类如何进化并实现 一次伟大的认知飞跃

作者：安吉拉·塞拉托雷 (Angela Serratore)

当我们的史前祖先爬进深邃的洞穴在墙壁上创作艺术时，许多研究人员一致认为，那些早期人类同时也留下了人类心智进化中一个深刻时刻的证据：抽象思维的出现。

一头被绘制出来的野牛，无论多么简陋，都是一个符号——是对不在现场之物的呈现。创造和理解符号需要一种超越此时此地的思考能力，将墙上的线条与洞穴外一个活生生的、呼吸着的生物的形状联系起来。

“如今，我的大部分心智都包含在手机里，这对于冰河时代的狩猎采集者来说，就相当于绘制的动物或雕刻的小像，”英国雷丁大学的考古学家、《心智史前史》(The Prehistory of the Mind)、《歌唱的尼安德特人》(The Singing Neanderthals) 以及《语言之谜》(The Language Puzzle) 等书的作者史蒂文·米森 (Steven Mithen) 说道。

在米森及许多其他人的看来，当人类发展出描绘其世界图像的能力时，他们同时也增强了按类别思考的能力——也就是我们现在所说的抽象思维。他说，冰河时代的人们将绘画和雕刻用作想法的“认知锚点”，而这些想法在其他情况下很难被记住、分享或处理。米森解释道：“早期的类人生物，无论是智人还是其他物种（如尼安德特人），从未掌握过这种通过使用物质对象来扩展思维能力的技巧，这限制了他们只能生活在一个没有抽象概念的世界里。”

随着认知和文化的进化，共享知识变得更容易维持并传给后代。

“洞穴壁画的具象艺术将想法和信息的外部化提升到了前所未有的水平，”米森说，“直到数千年后文字发明之前，这一水平从未被超越。”

追逐极光

海途邮轮 (Hurtigruten) 的北极光航线为您带来北极光的魔力 作者：海瑟·格林伍德·戴维斯 (Heather Greenwood Davis)

起初，站在“特罗尔峡湾号”(MS Trollfjord) 昏暗的甲板上，我怀疑自己是否在做梦。但天空中标志性的白色丝缕证实了：极光来了。挪威是世界上观赏北极光最佳的地点之一。当这场舞会开始时，我的相机捕捉到了眼睛无法分辨的细节：螺旋状的绿色漏斗、飞 soaring 的紫色弧线和迸发的红色日冕。远离城市灯光，漆黑的天空在我们的船只上方变成了一个令人迷醉的光影、色彩与运动的万花筒。没有任何照片能公正地还原我所看到的景象。没有任何视频能准确传达站在这个脉动画布之下的感受。

随着极光沿着海岸移动，我们也随之而行，追随极光椭圆带。当极光消退时，一杯“北极光”(Nordlys) 鸡尾酒在等待着我们——这是一个色彩斑斓的提醒，预示着我们的观测才刚刚开始。明天晚上我们将再次回来，昂首望天，期待另一场天上的杰作。

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海途邮轮 (HURTIGRUTEN)

马歇尔计划

凭借细心与耐心，这位未来的最高法院大法官构建了反击吉姆·克劳法的论据

瑟古德·马歇尔（Thurgood Marshall）感到信心十足——或者说，他看起来确实如此。这位 37 岁的律师兼全国有色人种协进会（NAACP）法律防御基金负责人是一颗冉冉升起的新星，在他提交给美国最高法院的前三个案件中，已经赢得了两个。他热情洋溢且极具魅力，于 1945 年 11 月来到俄克拉荷马州的小镇麦卡莱斯特（McAlester），宣布一项大胆的新计划：他打算让一名黑人学生进入俄克拉荷马大学就读，那是该州一所仅招收白人的旗舰大学。“这是进入俄克拉荷马州法院的所有案件中最容易获胜的一个，”马歇尔在当地 NAACP 代表的人群面前自豪地宣称，“即使是在密西西比州，我也能赢得这类案件。”

我们的飞行目的地比任何其他航空公司都多

NAACP 此前曾尝试挑战教育领域的吉姆·克劳种族隔离制度，但以失败告终。所有通往正义的道路都被“普莱西诉弗格森案”（Plessy v. Ferguson）所封死，这是 1896 年最高法院的一项裁决，它在法律上通过“隔离但平等”的原则保护了种族隔离。虽然法院认为隔离学校是“……立法权的有效行使”，但所有种族的人都知道“隔离但平等”是一个笑话。黑人学生经常被分流到贫穷且种族孤立的学校，这些学校提供的机会远少于白人学生所在的学校。

1956 年，黑人学生抵达克林顿高中（Clinton High School），这是在最高法院做出“布朗诉教育委员会案”（Brown v. Board of Education）裁决后，田纳西州第一所实现融合的公立学校。

隔离这一事实本身就建立了一种被羞辱和被剥夺的感觉。

马歇尔认为，废除“吉姆·克劳法”（Jim Crow）的最佳途径是通过法庭。但他也明白，他经常提到的对隔离制度的“全面进攻”，不可能通过单一的司法裁决来实现。普莱西案（Plessy）那种残酷的逻辑必须被一点点地、一个案件接一个案件地瓦解。虽然最高法院 1954 年在“布朗诉教育委员会案”（Brown v. Board of Education）中的裁决因推翻了学校中“隔离但平等”的学说而被广泛铭记，但如果没有在之前几十年里愿意冲破肤色界限的一批勇敢学生，这一里程碑式的裁决是不可能实现的。他们的领导者是一位决心创造一个更平等世界的律师，而当时法院、大学甚至他的一些黑人领导同僚都认为这是不可能的。马歇尔曾评论道：“你根本不可能允许存在‘一点点’隔离。你完全无法为隔离的必要性寻找任何合理化理由。”

对于马歇尔来说，摧毁“吉姆·克劳法”的愿望不仅是职业使命，更是个人使命。马歇尔身材瘦长，为人随和，通常带着一个粗俗的笑话，在巴尔的摩成长期间被认为是班上的开心果。他在林肯大学本科期间的同学兰斯顿·休斯（Langston Hughes）将他描述为“粗犷且准备充分，大声且错误，心地善良但缺乏教养”。当他决定成为一名律师并目标进入马里兰大学法学院时，他变得端正起来。但由于肤色，他无法就读，这一不公正现象激励了他职业生涯的大部分时间。

1930 年，他勉强进入了霍华德大学，该校当时拥有一所规模较小且举步维艰的法学院。这一决定被证明具有变革意义。在霍华德大学，马歇尔遇到了查尔斯·休斯顿（Charles Houston），他是法学院严厉的新任院长，后来成为了全国有色人种协进会（NAACP）的律师。休斯顿在年轻的学生心中灌输了一种使命感，预言马歇尔这一代的黑人律师将成为新美国的社会工程师。

在马歇尔以全班第一名的成绩毕业后，深受触动的休斯顿招募他协助 NAACP 的法律工作。该组织希望改善黑人学校，但仍在寻找最佳途径。最初在 20 世纪 20 年代，这个民权组织制定了一项计划，旨在通过发起一系列有针对性的诉讼，逐案增加对黑人学校的资金投入。1931 年，NAACP 律师内森·马戈尔德（Nathan Margold）主张，该组织应该通过揭露白人学校与黑人学校之间普遍存在的不平等，直接挑战隔离制度的合宪性。

当休斯顿成为 NAACP 的首席律师时，他对马戈尔德的策略进行了精明的修正：

一座历经 400 年打造，却始终感觉如此崭新的城市。

在圣达菲，历史不仅存在于书中；它就在你呼吸的空气中，在每个角落展现出的数世纪的文化、艺术和传统中。难怪《Travel + Leisure》的读者今年再次将圣达菲评为美国第一名城市。准备好步入一个历经 400 多年打造且仍在展开的故事吧。这只是让这座城市与众不同的原因之一，但仍有更多等待被发掘。

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民权

他不再将目标锁定在小学和高中，而是开始寻找高等教育中的不平等现象。通过法律压力，全国有色人种协进会（NAACP）可以迫使各州要么为黑人学生建立昂贵的“隔离但平等”的专业学校，要么允许他们进入白人学校。任何未能达到平等标准的黑人专属设施，都只会增强一个论点，即非裔美国人被剥夺了基本权利。

在执行该策略的早期阶段，曾出现过失误。1938年，休斯顿和马歇尔在最高法院成功辩论，认为一名叫作劳埃德·盖恩斯（Lloyd Gaines）的黑人学生有权在密苏里大学法学院就读。然而，就在课程开始前，盖恩斯神秘失踪，令 NAACP 陷入尴尬。打破肤色壁垒的压力可能对这个年轻人来说太沉重了；他最后的一封已知信件是写给母亲的，信中哀叹他在为“1300 万 Negroes的持久成功”而奋斗时所面临的压力。

休斯顿很快退休，马歇尔成为了 NAACP 新成立的法律防御基金（Legal Defense Fund）的负责人。他的团队在南方搜寻合适的候选人，这些人需要申请专业学校，并且在成为原告后不会失踪。1945年，他们找到了一个理想人选——艾达·洛伊斯·西普尔（Ada Lois Sipuel），一名来自俄克拉荷马州的21岁大学毕业生，一名有志成为律师的青年。西普尔的父母在1921年的种族大屠杀后逃离了图尔萨，当时一群白人暴徒烧毁了格林伍德（Greenwood）的黑人社区。她对种族仇恨再熟悉不过，当 NAACP 招募她去挑战俄克拉荷马大学的歧视时，她抓住了这个机会。谈到自己的理由时，她后来说道：“法律是错误的，整个系统都是不公平的。”

1946年1月，西普尔申请进入俄克拉荷马大学法学院，但因种族原因被拒绝。马歇尔和 NAACP 迅速提起诉讼，两年内该案提交至最高法院。虽然在早期的教育案件中，NAACP 主要坚持主张黑人学生应享有平等设施，但这一次，马歇尔直接攻击“普莱西案”（Plessy）。他宣布“隔离但平等”的原则“缺乏法律依据”。最高法院做出了有利于西普尔的裁决，但该决定刻意回避了“隔离但平等”是否符合宪法的问题。法院仅允许西普尔获得法学院教育，至于俄克拉荷马大学如何创建该教育则由校方决定。利用这一模糊的指令，州政府官员匆忙在州议会大厦的几个空房间里建立了一所虚假的黑人法学院。感到受辱的西普尔拒绝入学。

进步往往是缓慢且渐进的——直到它在瞬间爆发。

马歇尔同时推进的其他高关注度案件也遇到了类似的障碍。在西普尔案裁决的同一个月，一名叫作乔治·麦克劳林（George McLaurin）的教授申请进入俄克拉荷马大学研究生院，但被拒绝。在提起诉讼后，他被勉强录取，但学校将他的办公桌安置在一个与白人学生隔离的壁龛中，并禁止他与同学一起吃午餐。在德克萨斯州，一名33岁的邮递员希曼·斯威特（Heman Sweatt）提起诉讼，要求进入德克萨斯大学法学院就读。该州总检察长宣布，斯威特永远不会“玷污”大学的大门，而大学官员则为他设立了一所类似于西普尔在俄克拉荷马州那样虚假的法学院。

1948年，最高法院表示乔治·麦克劳林有权就读于俄克拉荷马大学——但他必须与白人学生分开就坐。

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这些法律胜利在黑人媒体和全美有色人种协进会（NAACP）总部得到了广泛庆祝——一名律师回忆道，“当时有大量的苏格兰威士忌和波本威士忌”——但一些黑人领导人也对裁决的狭窄范围感到担忧。马歇尔的一位朋友在私信中安慰他写道：“我知道你更希望能够干脆地推翻‘普莱西诉弗格森案’。”

但马歇尔并不认为机会之窗正在关闭；恰恰相反。“仔细阅读这些意见书就会发现，无论从哪个角度来看，‘普莱西诉弗格森案’已经被掏空了，”他回应道。“无论你怎么看，终点已经可见。”

马歇尔是对的。1951, 年，在 Sweatt 和 McLaurin 裁决大约八个月后，一名来自堪萨斯州的焊工奥利弗·布朗（Oliver Brown）代表他的三年级女儿琳达（Linda）对托皮卡学校董事会提起了一项集体诉讼，琳达此前被拒绝进入附近的一所白人小学。到“布朗诉教育委员会案”时

马歇尔意识到，这些学院不会在“隔离但平等”的立场上退让，即使这意味着要为黑人设施投入新资金。他必须进一步推进他的论点。因此，在 1950, 年 4 月，他和 NAACP 的同事在最高法院就 Sweatt 和 McLaurin 案件的两项上诉进行了辩论。他们强调，强制隔离违反了第 14 修正案的平等保护条款，无论提供给黑人学生的隔离设施质量如何。“隔离这一事实本身就给被认为低等的群体带来了一种被羞辱和被剥夺的感觉，”马歇尔的团队在法律摘要中辩称。或者，正如这位律师在听证会上用更简单的措辞所说，“他们可以建造一个[法学院]的完全复制品，但如果它是隔离的，那么它就是不平等的。”一名旁观者表示，这是马歇尔在法庭上最具说服力的陈述之一。

6 月 5, 日，最高法院给出了裁决。将 McLaurin 和 Sweatt 与白人同学分开的隔离政策必须被废除。但法院再次回避了 NAACP 论点的核心：即“普莱西诉弗格森案”以及“隔离但平等”原则本身违宪。首席大法官弗雷德·文森（Fred Vinson）在意见书中写道：“虽然有人敦促我们考虑更广泛的问题，但我们坚持仅在法院审理的具体案件背景下决定宪法问题的原则。”

在公共教育领域，“隔离但平等”的原则没有立足之地。

1948年1月，艾达·洛伊斯·西普尔（Ada Lois Sipuel，居中）在俄克拉荷马大学法学院。马歇尔（Marshall）直接站在她身后，一名招生官正在阅读她的学业记录。

作者署名

Victor Luckerson 是史密森尼学会（Smithsonian）的国家通讯员，《Built From the Fire》一书的作者。

Hsiao-Ron Cheng 是一位台湾插画师和数字艺术家，以其肖像画闻名。

当教育部的案件在 1952 年提交至最高法院时，马歇尔已经完善了他此前在高等教育案件中首次提出的论点，特别是关于种族隔离对学生产生的负面心理影响。当首席大法官厄尔·沃伦（Earl Warren）发布其具有里程碑意义的 1954 年意见书时，他引用了马歇尔之前的几个案件作为相关先例：盖恩斯案（Gaines）、西普尔案（Sipuel）、斯威特案（Sweatt）和麦克劳林案（McLaurin）。这些案件的综合分量，以及这些黑人学生所遭受的机会损失，最终足以迫使法院纠正其历史性的错误。沃伦的意见书写道：“在公共教育领域，‘隔离但平等’的原则没有立足之地。”

“布朗诉教育委员会案”（Brown v. Board）的裁决具有震动效应，但它并非突然发生。法院在每一次连续的裁决中缓慢地让步。而那些勇敢的学生从未停止努力，他们抓住每一个机会，给非人性化的吉姆·克劳法（Jim Crow）机器投掷扳手。进步往往是缓慢且渐进的，直到它在瞬间全面爆发。

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内战后的一系列创新，造就了这款返校必备品

人类至少从大约 200 万年前开始使用工具起，就一直用某种包裹将物品背在背上——而且我们一直在寻找让负重更舒适的方法。目前已知最古老的背包是在奥地利和意大利边境的阿尔卑斯山发现的，它使用了两块狭窄的木板和一根榛木杆作为框架。这个装置的历史可以追溯到公元前 3300 年左右，被认为属于“冰人”奥茨（Ötzi），这是一具在 1991 年与其一同出土的冰川木乃伊。

但我们现在所认知的背包则新得多。1865 年，亨利·克莱·梅里亚姆（Henry Clay Merriam）率领一支

亨利·克莱·梅里亚姆 1878 年关于“背包实用改进”专利的细节。这些袋子配备的支撑杆可兼作帐篷杆。

黑人士兵进攻阿拉巴马州邦联据点布莱克利堡（Fort Blakely）。他在这场内战最后一场战斗中的表现为他赢得了因“卓越英勇”而授予的荣誉勋章。之后，这位中校产生了一个感悟：同时携带一个背包（knapsack，指有肩带但没有内部支撑框架的包）和一个挎包（haversack，装有口粮的肩背包）非常累赘。基于为军队携带装备的经历，梅里亚姆设计了一个解决方案：一个箱形的帆布包，空间足够放置袜子、一夸脱水、一套剃须工具和一副扑克牌，并在底部设有一个装口粮的隔层。钣金支撑件构成了

YOUR ADVENTURE AWAITS （您的冒险之旅在等待）

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序言

起源

背包的框架——在夜晚还能兼作帐篷杆。在 1878 年的专利中，梅里亚姆（Merriam）解释说，这种设计通过“减轻携带重量，同时使其分布更均匀，使士兵的身体更自由，减少肩带和其他紧固件的束缚”来帮助士兵。

帐篷杆的设计尤为精巧，但仍有改进空间。1882 年，明尼苏达州杜鲁斯的一家鞋店店主卡米尔·波里埃（Camille Poirier）采用了一种带有头部固定带的帆布设计，可以同时携带独木舟和行囊——这在拥有 10,000 个湖泊的土地上是首要需求。他还设计了一根额外的带子用来固定雨伞，为徒步旅行者遮阳。早期的广告激动地敦促读者带着这款“在北方荒野中创造了历史”的背包“踏上旅程”。这款背包面向快速增长的户外休闲人群进行销售，事实证明它既受欢迎且经久不衰——波里埃背包（或称杜鲁斯背包）至今仍在生产。

卡米尔·波里埃 1882 年关于新型背包带专利的图纸——包括肩带上的滑动垫。

随后出现了进一步的改进。挪威户外运动爱好者奥莱·F·贝尔根（Ole F. Bergan）在 1909 年为背包添加了弯曲的金属框架后，其国家的武装部队采用了他的背包，传奇的挪威探险家兼登山家罗尔德·阿蒙森（Roald Amundsen）在一次南极探险中也携带了一个。劳埃德·F·尼尔森（Lloyd F. Nelson）在阿拉斯加徒步申领土地时，从遇到的因纽特人携带的背包中获得了灵感。1922 年，他制作了最初的 Trapper Nelson 背包，这是一款带有可拆卸木框架和钢销的帆布袋。

现代背包在 20 世纪 30 年代开始初具规模，当时登山者盖里·坎宁安（Gerry Cunningham）——他后来在第十山地师服役——增加了拉链隔层，以便在攀岩时快速取物。坎宁安在 1967 年转向生产尼龙型号。

同年，默里·麦考里（Murray McCory）与女友简·刘易斯（Jan Lewis）共同创立了 JanSport，提供带有轻量级铝制框架的尼龙背包。在 JanSport 设立店铺的西雅图，由于经常下雨，这种滑雪和登山背包在希望保持书籍干燥的大学生中大受欢迎。坎宁安和 JanSport 生产的更轻的框架将这些背包从登山配件转变为必备的返校用品。

JanSport 这家成立于 1967 年的西雅图公司，至今仍是一款经典（且无处不在）的现代背包。

款式可能会改变——回收材料和 USB 充电端口正成为趋势；追求时尚的人可以购买带有闪光亮片饰面的型号——但背包对于任何和所有流浪者来说依然是无价之宝。全球每年售出约 4.5 亿 个，大致相当于有史以来全球售出的 iPod 总数，这有力地证明了背包的适应能力。

不可否认的

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伟大的披风

历史上最值钱的棒球卡之一，开启了一扇通往黄金时代的门户

[那时]的孩子们对运动员的崇拜，或许在今天已经不复存在了。

”

他站在一片比蓝色更偏向青色的万里无云之空下，目光越过你的身后望向远方。他是一个身着洋基队帽子、在户外显得精神抖擞的美国青少年，但那背景颜色，就像他肩上球棒的香蕉黄一样，给人一种超脱尘世的感觉。

恰如其分地，在图像底部，他的名字周围环绕着星形边框。米基·曼特尔（Mickey Mantle）那像白昼偶像般英俊的面孔在亚利桑那州的阳光下闪耀。

这张黑白照片拍摄于曼特尔新秀赛季 1951 年的春季训练期间。次年，Topps 咀嚼胶品公司为了开拓新市场，将其上色并印刷。早期的棒球卡由烟草公司在 19 世纪末创造，他们将棒球运动员的硬纸片放入香烟和散装烟草包中，以帮助包装盒保持形状。到了 20 世纪 30 年代，公司开始生产售价 1 cent (1) 的独立卡包，并附带口香糖以增加对儿童的吸引力。随着棒球在战后 era, 的普及，Topps 看到了增长机会。该公司开始销售自己的系列卡片，并进行了微小的创新，将这些纸质广告变成了年轻人想要收集和珍藏之物。该公司的卡片于 1952 年首次亮相，比之前的卡片颜色更亮，表面积更大，背面还印有球队标志和球员统计数据。Topps 的这些特点至今仍是行业标准。

这张 1952 年的曼特尔卡片在曼特尔成为家喻户晓的名字之前就上市了。尽管 Topps 那年第一批卡片售罄，但大多数大联盟棒球运动员是在整个赛季期间分批发布的。销量逐渐下降，包含这张图像在内的最后一批产品并未取得巨大的成功。成箱成箱的未售产品被退回到布鲁克林的一个仓库，在那里，整套卡片（曼特尔是 407 张中的第 311 张）被搁置了近十年。1960 年，公司决定需要腾出存储空间，据报道，一名 Topps 员工用驳船将数百箱卡片运走，将其倾倒在大西洋中。

据称，由此产生的稀缺性使得 311 号卡片在那个年代后期曼特尔成为国家英雄后的几年里如此受追捧。但仅凭稀缺性无法解释为什么 1952 年的这张卡片会成为历史上价值最高的体育纪念品之一，并在 2022 年以当时创纪录的 $12.600 万 在拍卖会上售出。这张曼特尔卡片不仅仅是一件收藏品；它已成为世纪中叶棒球辉煌岁月的代表，就像吉恩·凯利（Gene Kelly）在 1951 年电影《巴黎美国人》中充满活力的舞蹈一样，成为了世纪中叶美国乐观主义的代称。

如今可能还存在 1,000 多张此类卡片，品相各异。其中一件保存完好的样本收藏在史密森尼美国国家历史博物馆的罗纳德·S·科达（Ronald S. Korda）体育与交易卡收藏集中。策展人埃里克·詹奇（Eric Jentsch）表示，311 号卡片的名声在很大程度上是文化时机产物，而非其内在价值：其价格和受欢迎程度取决于创造需求的那些年轻人。

“ 20 世纪 50 年代和 60 年代的粉丝在 80 年代构建了商品市场，”詹奇说。“这些孩子长大后，决定基于他们对体育的兴趣，通过这些东西与童年或自己的身份建立联系。”曼特尔曾三次获得最有价值球员（MVP），帮助世界上最著名的球队赢得了七次世界系列赛冠军，并 20 次入选全明星赛，“他绝对代表了那个时代，而其他球员则不能。”

1952年的曼特尔（Mantle）卡片因其他原因而令怀旧主义者心驰神往。延奇（Jentsch）指出，20世纪50年代是一个巨大的转型时代。无论是通过电视观看电影，用立体声系统聆听长播放唱片，还是阅读廉价的口袋书小说，美国人在那个十年里将自己的兴趣带入家中，使其成为日常生活的一部分。棒球现在也可以在电视上观看，而在球衣和帽子成为常见的商品之前，Topps卡片是球迷们首批广泛收集的物品。

“那确实是一个转折点，”延奇说，“这群孩子第一次拥有了这种共同的体验”，因为他们研究统计数据并交易自己最喜欢的球员。你不再需要购买门票或现场观看比赛，就能感觉到自己是球迷社区的一员。

米奇·曼特尔（Mickey Mantle）年轻、英俊且充满运动气息，在其他方面也体现了这个乐观的时代。他极负盛名且受人崇拜——但他出现的时间早于后一代运动员开始面临的严苛审视。随着几十年的推移，尽管曼特尔以过度放纵而闻名，但他逐渐象征着体育运动中一个更纯粹的时代，那是企业所有制、类固醇丑闻或媒体对球员场内外一举一动进行病态报道之前的时代。

“我认为当时的孩子们真正地偶像化运动员，这种方式或许与今天不同，因为现在我们都将他们视为普通人，”延奇说。

Topps 311号卡片之所以依然是如此珍贵的图腾，很大程度上是因为它唤起了这个黄金时代。它描绘了一位仍处于伟大巅峰前夜的传奇球员。曼特尔一直打球到30多岁，在相对年轻的63岁去世前，他曾数十年酗酒，但在这里，他依然是青春潜力的化身。卡片被着色，呈现出强烈的视觉效果，就像当时约翰·福特（John Ford）的特艺彩色（Technicolor）西部片——或者像另一个同时代的偶像：超人。

这改变了一切。

一本新书认为，正是淘金热推动了现代性的进程

作者：Lydia Kiesling

1848年1月24日，一名叫詹姆斯·马歇尔（James Marshall）的木匠在内华达山脉山麓建造磨坊时发现了一块金块。这一时刻开启了淘金热，将数以千计的人吸引到了被称为加利福尼亚的这片领土。在多产的历史学家纳撒尼尔·菲尔布里克（Nathaniel Philbrick）的最新著作《奔赴：加利福尼亚黄金、内战与现代世界的塑造》（The Rush: California Gold, the Civil War and the Making of the Modern World）中，马歇尔的发现是一个决定性的历史时刻，它让这个初生的国家“疾速地冲向一场清算，不仅是针对奴隶制，还针对其巨大的地理规模”。（史密森尼学会收藏了一块金块，如上图所示，被认为是马歇尔发现的第一块。）

《奔赴》建立在庞大的现有学术成果之上，菲尔布里克将这些研究综合成一个生动且易懂的叙事。在马歇尔做出那个决定性发现时，加利福尼亚是一片极具争议的土地，足以打破联邦 15 个奴隶州和 15 个自由州之间的平衡。菲尔布里克简洁地唤起了那个时代活跃的政治、人物和技术。他将那个时代的集体技术和文化加速称为“奔赴”（the Rush），并将这种力量视为催化剂，引发了从内战到电影出现等截然不同的事件。

菲尔布里克认为，“加利福尼亚的生活可能是残酷且不留情面的，但它也充满了兴奋、希望，而且——如果你是一个美国白人——巨大的自由。”在菲尔布里克向我们介绍那些规划中央太平洋铁路线的未来大亨时，他也报道了在难以忍受的条件下修建铁路的中国工人们的生活。在将联邦推向内战的政治家之余，我们还遇到了那些成功驱动事件发展的局外人，包括玛丽·艾伦·普莱森特（Mary Ellen Pleasant），一位在旧金山建立了洗衣帝国并资助废奴事业的黑人企业家。据报道，她甚至伪装成骑师前往弗吉尼亚州的种植园，传播约翰·布朗（John Brown）计划袭击哈珀斯费里（Harpers Ferry）的消息。

在菲尔布里克描述那个时代的人物、巨额财富、种族主义暴力和深刻矛盾时，他强调了这些在当今时代的共鸣。他写道，19世纪的加利福尼亚人“在与一个美国人至今仍在询问的问题作斗争：我们究竟是谁？”书的最后一章《帕罗奥图》（Palo Alto）将淘金热的事件与硅谷的技术繁荣联系起来，并对这个问题给出了一个部分且令人不安的答案。“无论你是否喜欢，”菲尔布里克观察到，“我们都是一列疾速行驶的火车上的乘客。”

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精美步行杖图片非实际尺寸。

迭戈·里维拉在阿纳瓦卡利博物馆（Anahuacalli Museum）收藏的前哥伦布时期艺术私人收藏，该博物馆于 2021 年扩建并重新开放。

没有人完全确定

在墨西哥城这座庞大的巨型都市中隐藏着多少家博物馆，但政府统计有 171 家。它们涵盖了从知名度极高的国家人类学博物馆（其在一座卓越的现代主义建筑中收藏了全球规模最大的前哥伦布时期文物），到如龙舌兰酒与梅斯卡尔酒博物馆、古董玩具博物馆以及墨西哥糖艺博物馆等极其专业化的目的地。由军队运营且充满争议的麻醉品博物馆展出了与墨西哥毒品战争相关的展品，包括金色的左轮手枪和一只填充的缉毒犬；旅行者必须提前写信申请，才能获得极少被授予的许可来参观这个前卫的收藏。

掩埋之下的秘密

对面页面为 calmécac（阿兹特克贵族古代学校）立面的一块装饰件。左图，一块指示牌引导游客前往西班牙文化中心博物馆的地下室。下方，calmécac 的考古遗迹是在约 40 年前的一次地震后的重建工作中被发现的。 ...

可能会在紧闭的大门后发现，他们逃离纽约的暴风雪，追求永恒的春天。

● ● ●

墨西哥城海拔 7,350 英尺，四周环绕着火山。一年中的大部分时间里，这里阳光普照，白天气温通常保持在 60 华氏度以上。这座城市规模宏大，居住着约 2200 万人口，如今占据了墨西哥中央谷地；而这里曾经是一个由湖泊和沼泽岛屿交织而成的系统，由阿兹特克帝国统治。

在西班牙人于 1521 年征服该地区后，他们开始排干当地的水域并填平运河，以至于如今在南部仅剩下一个原始湖泊——索奇米尔科（Xochimilco）。因此，人们很难想象曾经雄伟的阿兹特克首都特诺奇蒂特兰（Tenochtitlan）的样子，这座城市大约创建于 1325 年，坐落在一个中央

保护冠军

城市考古项目主任劳尔·巴雷拉（Raúl Barrera）表示：“阿兹特克文化远不止于暴力和人体祭祀。” ...

岛屿，其地基的一部分由木桩构成。在16世纪初的鼎盛时期，这座城市至少有150,000名居民，三条堤道将一个充满金字塔、神庙和祭祀场所的中心区域连接在一起，该区域被称为“神圣区”（Sacred Precinct）。

在一个阳光灿烂、万里无云的早晨，我前往这个备受推崇的地点，它现在位于墨西哥城历史中心（Historic Center）的地下。西班牙人在此建立了他们自己的殖民行政中心，以及华丽的大都会主教座堂（Metropolitan Cathedral），这座教堂至今仍俯瞰着广阔的索卡洛（Zócalo）主广场。自1991年起担任城市考古项目（西班牙语缩写为PAU）主任的劳尔·巴雷拉解释道，该项目负责监督历史中心的挖掘工作：“当我们行走时，特诺奇蒂特兰的遗迹就在我们的脚下。这就是为什么我们正在缓慢地建立一个地下博物馆网络。”

巴雷拉解释说，在西班牙征服之后，埃尔南·科尔特斯（Hernán Cortés）对阿兹特克首都进行了彻底的重新设计，以有效地抹除这个热衷于人体祭祀的“野蛮”文明。但这座城市已经消失的观点在1978年被推翻，当时两名在索卡洛附近工作的电工挖掘出了一块重达八吨的月亮女神科约尔沙乌基（Coyolxauhqui）的圆形石刻，从而引发了进一步的挖掘。如今，大神庙（Templo Mayor）的基座——一座顶端设有阿兹特克战神和雨神祭坛的阶梯金字塔——在相邻的博物馆内展出，该圆盘也在此展出。自1991, 以来，PAU一直在挖掘神圣区内建筑施工期间发现的其他“抢救性遗址”，最终目标是将它们向公众开放。

但为了参观三个最令人兴奋的发现，来自瓦哈卡（Oaxaca）、蓄胡且随和的学者巴雷拉请求在大神庙附近的危地马拉街（Guatemala Street）会面。我们进入了现代的主教座堂酒店（Hotel Catedral），前台工作人员向我们挥手，我们在大堂就座，下方是风神埃埃卡特尔-奎扎尔科亚特尔（Ehecatl-Quetzalcoatl）神庙裸露的圆形地基，该地基是在2010年酒店车库施工期间挖掘出来的。一段楼梯向下延伸，通向一座比例优雅的圆形建筑遗迹以及部分可追溯至1400年代的球场，该区域计划于2026年底作为博物馆开放。（我们访问时，一名年轻的考古学家正用刷子清理石砌结构。）

在墨西哥城进行挖掘非常困难，因为水分仍从特诺奇蒂特兰建立在之上的原始粘土湖床中渗出。巴雷拉将这种柔软、潮湿的土壤比作“巨大的果冻”。他补充说，土壤的压缩也是为什么许多在西班牙人抵达后建造的结构正以每年高达20英寸的速度“缓慢下沉”。

战斗场景 左图是墨西哥-美国战争留下的弹孔，布满了国家干预博物馆的墙壁。该博物馆设在原修道院内（见下图），记录了墨西哥动荡的历史。 ...

接着，巴雷拉带我走到几扇门之外的西班牙文化中心，这是一座庄严的16世纪殖民建筑，其地下室包含一座 calmécac 的遗迹，那是阿兹特克贵族子弟的学校。该遗址在1985年的一次大地震后被发现，并自2012, 起作为博物馆向公众开放，馆内设有灯光幽暗的展品，包括螺旋形屋顶装饰、使用痕迹明显的陶瓷盘、用于宗教仪式的刻字人类下颌骨以及幽灵般的足-

这片迷宫般的空间里充满了个人遗物、照片以及戴着宽檐帽的叛军英雄的艺术雕塑。

灰泥地板上嵌有印迹，仿佛阿兹特克学生们在课后刚刚消失在楼上。巴雷拉观察到，每个新遗址都需要一个创造性的工程解决方案，例如加固殖民时期的建筑，或设计像大教堂酒店（Hotel Catedral）那样“漂浮”在阿兹特克遗迹之上的现代建筑：“我们不再需要为了挖掘特诺奇蒂特兰（Tenochtitlan）而拆除建筑。阿兹特克世界可以与现代世界共存。”

地下之旅的亮点就在附近一座去年开放的修复后的西班牙豪宅中，令人意外的是，这里现在是可可与巧克力博物馆。当票务窗口的一名工作人员在品尝巧克力点心时，巴雷拉撕开了禁入之门上的官方PAU封条，露出一个由裸露灯泡照明的尘封房间。巴雷拉解释说，在2015年建设博物馆期间，工人们在地下室有了一个惊人的发现：人类头骨。巴雷拉很快意识到，这就是著名的韦伊-措姆潘特利（Huey Tzompantli），这里展出了650个以上被祭祀受害者的颅骨，这些颅骨经过仪式性的清洗并剥离肌肉，作为神圣区域的中心展品。巴雷拉说：“当发现第一批头骨时，我们研究了征服者的回忆录。士兵安德烈斯·德·塔皮亚（Andrés de Tapia）对韦伊-措姆潘特利留下了详细的记录，描述了一个长架子，两端有两个空心的圆形塔楼。这绝对就是它！这简直是个奇迹。”

巴雷拉引导我沿着一个摇摇欲坠的梯子向下，检查嵌在土墙中、眼眶空洞的成排头骨。随后，我们爬下第二个梯子，进入两座头骨空心塔之一，一排又一排的头骨凝视着我们——这确实产生了一种噩梦般且幽闭恐惧的效果。当我们坐在这个阴森的空间里时，巴雷拉解释说，韦伊-措姆潘特利仍然是一个活跃的考古挖掘现场，但计划在未来将其开放为博物馆。他说：“我们的首要任务是保护。”他补充道，这是一个具有“巨大文化冲击”的重要遗址。科尔特斯（Cortés）的手下之一，贝尔纳尔·迪亚斯·德尔·卡斯蒂略（Bernal Díaz del Castillo）在他的回忆录中描述了在大神庙（Templo Mayor）顶端目睹人体祭祀的情景。

根据阿兹特克的神学，“神灵每天都需要以血液和人类心脏为食，”巴雷拉解释说，阿兹特克人相信作为回报，他们会获得祝福。“祭祀确保了太阳每天升起，庄稼生长……这不仅仅是一场死亡的奇观。它是一座生命的圣殿，一个再生之地。”说完，我们爬回可可与巧克力博物馆，工作人员愉快地为我们提供了另一盘甜点，与下方的黑暗形成了超现实的对比。

在1521年征服后的三个世纪里，西班牙的统治使墨西哥城成为了“世界上第一个完全多元文化的地方”，历史学家保罗·吉林汉姆（Paul Gillingham）在《墨西哥：500年历史》一书中写道，横跨太平洋和大西洋的贸易路线使其成为了“来自美洲、亚洲、非洲和欧洲的旅行者、移民和贸易商的纽带”。19世纪，在墨西哥1821年脱离西班牙独立后，法国和美国军队接连入侵该国，这段故事在国家干预博物馆（National Museum of Interventions）中得到了讲述。该博物馆自1981年起坐落在梦幻般安静的丘鲁布斯科（Churubusco）修道院的一块古树参天之地，这里的驻院僧侣在1847年被驱逐，以便将其改为堡垒，博物馆的外墙至今仍布满了弹孔。

我的探索之旅在国家革命博物馆继续，该馆致力于展示 1857 年至 1920. 年间创建墨西哥现代宪政共和国的起义活动。该博物馆成立于 1986 年并于近期完成了翻新，坐落在一个巨大的建筑下方，该建筑最初计划作为联邦立法宫的一部分。这个迷宫般的空间里充满了个人遗物、照片以及戴着宽边帽（sombrero）的反抗英雄的艺术雕塑，这些物品讲述了像埃米利亚诺·萨帕塔（Emiliano Zapata）和潘乔·比利亚（Pancho Villa）这样华丽且浪漫的人物故事，他们两人都曾率领游击队横扫乡村。（两人均被暗杀，萨帕塔于 1919, 年被杀，比利亚于 1923 年被杀。）

革命在 1920 年最终取得成功，随后引发了一场创意文艺复兴，政府号召墨西哥艺术家们协助塑造一种基于对前哥伦布时期文明和原住民文化自豪感的新国家认同。艺术先驱是迭戈·里维拉（Diego Rivera），这位极具个人魅力的人物在 1921, 年结束了在巴黎十年的学习后回国，全身心地投入到一项由国家资助的壁画计划中。他率领的一支由学生和资深艺术家组成的小规模团队，包括学生和成就斐然的

致敬英雄

共和国广场（Plaza de la República）拥有革命纪念碑（见上图），它是全球最高的纪念拱门，高度达 220 英尺。它耸立在地下室（见左图）之上，其中的“人民革命”展厅内展出了战争文物。

作者简介

撰稿人 Tony Perrottet 上一次为本 杂志撰写关于 纽约旅游的文章是在 1776 年。

Alicia Vera 是一位屡获殊荣的墨西哥裔美国摄影师，常驻墨西哥城和迈阿密。

来自全国各地的画家提升了这一艺术形式，并赋予其独特的墨西哥视角。欣赏他们贡献的最佳场所之一是壁画生活博物馆（Living Museum of Muralism），该馆于 2024 年在原公共教育秘书处大楼开馆，这是一座位于历史中心 16 世纪修道院内的宏伟三层露天建筑。近 300 幅历史壁画装饰着华丽庭院周围的墙壁和拱门，其中许多出自创作极其丰产的里维拉之手，他是一位坚定的共产主义者，作品描绘了阿兹特克战士、劳作的农民和贪婪的资本家。馆内还展出了墨西哥 21 世纪从业者的壁画。

即便如此，我发现那个时代最令人兴奋的“画廊”就在几个街区外的阿贝尔多·L·罗德里格斯总统市场（Presidente Abelardo L. Rodríguez Market），那里如今已破旧不堪，但 1930 年代的壁画覆盖着天花板和墙壁。在读到关于二楼前厅的介绍后，我询问了一位食品摊贩指路。她指向一个阴暗且没有标记的楼梯间，沿着它走上去是一个阳光充足的房间。1935, 开始，一位 31 岁的日裔美国艺术家野口勇（Isamu Noguchi）在这里用八个月时间完成了一件巨大的艺术品——《墨西哥历史》（History Mexico）。（五年后，野口勇因装饰在纽约洛克菲勒中心的浮雕作品《新闻》（News）而闻名。）《墨西哥历史》是一幅长 72 英尺的雕塑饰带，由混凝土以及黑色和红色颜料的水泥制成，用镰刀、万字旗和人物的动态形状描绘了社会主义与纳粹主义及资本主义的斗争。野口勇后来深情地写道他在墨西哥逗留的时光，期间他结识了（并与之有过一段短暂情事）超现实主义艺术家弗里达·卡罗，后者是里维拉的妻子：野口勇回忆道，“环绕着我的情谊，墨西哥的生活，我爱人的歌声。迭戈曾两次拿着枪追我，但幸运的是没有开枪。”

然后，在 1930 年代中期，多元文化的墨西哥城巩固了其作为流亡者天堂的声誉，欢迎外国艺术家、激进分子和难民。这座城市庇护了逃离纳粹的德国犹太人和活动家、逃离墨索里尼的意大利人、逃离斯大林的俄罗斯人，以及拉丁美洲革命者的名流。许多人身后跟着间谍、刺客和秘密警察。在绿树成荫的科约阿坎（Coyoacán）区，历史爱好者可以步行前往列夫·托洛茨基故居博物馆，该馆于 1990 年在一座堡垒般的豪宅中建立，这位俄罗斯革命者曾试图在这里躲避斯大林，并在 1940. 被冰镐刺死前幸存于多次暗杀企图。花园里依然保留着托洛茨基的鸡舍和兔子笼；

不安的流亡

列夫·托洛茨基故居博物馆的一处展品（左）展示了这位俄罗斯革命者生命不同阶段的肖像。下方是托洛茨基被杀时在该屋内的办公室。

一块装饰有镰刀锤头标志的石碑内安放着他及其妻子的骨灰。

托洛茨基于 1937, 逃至墨西哥城，他也与卡罗有过一段短暂情事。卡罗与里维拉曾是科约阿坎左翼艺术界的支柱，而当时的科约阿坎是城市南部的一个乡村。如今，这个街区已成为大都市城市扩张的一部分，但它仍保持着旧世界的魅力，拥有色彩缤纷的手工艺品市场、两旁林立着咖啡馆的葱郁广场，以及一座建在阿兹特克墓地之上的拉丁美洲最古老的教堂之一。

几十年来，科约阿坎的主要景点一直是“蓝色屋”（Casa Azul），卡洛于1907年出生于此，在这里度过了童年，后来与里维拉共同生活。她于1954年在那里去世。这里是墨西哥城最受欢迎的旅游景点之一，购票队伍经常绕街而行，这正符合这位如今光芒掩盖了丈夫的家乡之星的地位：卡洛身着瓦哈卡州特瓦纳人传统刺绣裙装、头戴花冠的标志性形象，装饰在餐厅和纪念品店中。她的作品展在世界顶级博物馆中不断巡展，2025年，她的自画像《梦》（The Dream (The Bed)）在纽约苏富比拍卖行以5470万美元成交，打破了女性艺术家的国际公开拍卖纪录。

因此，去年年底在科约阿坎新开的卡洛故居博物馆成为了一次重大文化事件。这座充满纪念品的博物馆被称为“红色屋”（Casa Roja），博物馆馆长阿丹·加西亚·法哈多（Adán García Fajardo）告诉我，它体现了这座首都热衷于为历史名人建立家庭圣地的倾向。“我们墨西哥人喜欢英雄。我们喜欢战士。我们喜欢术士。我们喜欢能打动我们的魔法和伟大的个性。”

卡洛符合上述每一个类别，她的画作深深影响了数百万人。她的艺术与她那如歌剧般的人生故事密不可分，其人生标志着一次改变命运的事故、一场重病、与里维拉之间充满创伤的关系以及几段动荡的恋情。红色屋侧重于她的早期传记，是对蓝色屋的补充。工作人员玛丽亚·何塞·卡马乔（María José Camacho）表示：“红色屋就像是蓝色屋的前传。我们将弗里达视为一个人，而不仅仅是一名艺术家或迭戈的妻子。它完整了她的故事。”

卡洛的父母于1931年搬进红色屋（之所以得名是因为它有一扇红门，尽管现在整个外墙都被刷成了红色），卡洛的妹妹克里斯蒂娜在几年后与她的两个孩子伊索尔达和安东尼奥一起搬入。“每当弗里达与迭戈吵架，或者想要私密和亲密时光时，她都会在这里过夜，”加西亚·法哈多说道，其中包括1947-48年间长达18个月的一段时间。“人们认为她来这里是为了与列夫·托洛茨基和野口勇进行浪漫幽会。”

卡马乔补充道，红色屋的另一个特点是直到最近它仍是一座家庭住宅。克里斯蒂娜的孙辈直到几年前还住在那里，使得屋内充满了代代相传的私人遗物。“家族成员将档案和文物通过女儿传给女儿，形成了一条链条。后代直到三年前还住在这里。这里是他们共进晚餐、招待客人、庆祝生日的地方。它

政治评论 在壁画艺术生活博物馆（Living Museum of Muralism）收藏的数十件迭戈·里维拉作品中，《狂欢——富人的夜晚》（The Orgy—The Night of the Rich）描绘了富人的放纵，而即将到来的革命士兵的身影则在背景中若隐若现。

是这个家庭的核心，”卡马乔说。策展人已经对卡洛的衣服、珠宝、玩具、药品、婚礼邀请函和随手写的便条进行了编目。

加西亚·法哈多表示，这种丰富的纪念品对于所有故居博物馆的吸引力至关重要：“人们能分辨出哪些不是原件；你几乎能感觉到。我们能够抢救出屋内的个人珍宝。床上的床单是原件。厨房里的餐具是原件。我们甚至有一包弗里达抽过的香烟。”

红色屋至今仍像是一场家庭聚会。卡洛的一位曾曾侄女玛拉·德·安达·罗密欧（Mara de Anda Romeo）为介绍视频配音，视频讲述了卡洛的童年、6岁时患小儿麻痹症导致一条腿萎缩，以及18岁时导致脊柱受损的恐怖巴士事故。（旁白还提到了她的

“我们成功抢救出了屋内的个人珍藏。我们甚至还保留了一包弗里达抽过的香烟。”

独特的连眉（uniceja）。在博物馆的其他区域，另一位曾侄女弗里达·亨切尔·罗密欧（Frida Hentschel Romeo）为卡洛的妹妹克里斯蒂娜（Cristina）配音。许多展品讲述了卡洛作为艺术家的成长过程，首先是她与父亲吉列尔莫（Guillermo）的亲密关系。吉列尔莫是一位匈牙利裔德国移民，也是一名摄影师，创作了许多令人印象深刻的家庭肖像，包括卡洛的童年照片。“弗里达的父亲非常有艺术天赋，”加西亚·法哈多（García Fajardo）说道，“他想成为一名画家，热爱歌剧和音乐——这些热情都传递给了弗里达。”

在翻修期间，内部庭院铺设了路面以便游客进入，原有的葡萄柚树被更换了。

温馨的家

卡罗故居博物馆（Kahlo House Museum），又称“红屋”（Casa Roja），其厨房曾是弗里达·卡罗（Frida Kahlo）家人直到三年前仍居住的地方。这座新博物馆让人们能够近距离观察这位艺术家的日常生活环境，包括餐具、信件，以及（右侧）一组色彩斑斓的刺绣衬衫。

（这家人们曾热爱弥漫在屋内的柑橘香气。）在温馨的厨房里，葡萄柚叶的图案装饰在墙上，下方是一幅在白色油漆层下被发现的飞鸟壁画，这幅画可能是卡罗本人所作。上面的铭文写着“El mesón de los gorriones”，意为“麻雀旅馆”。人们很容易地想象出一家人围坐在桌旁的场景。

或许最令人震撼的空间在楼下，在一个裸砖房的桌子上立着一个小画架，周围环绕着卡罗在 1930 年左右从旧金山唐人街寄回家的玩偶。卡马乔（Camacho）告诉我，她在写给姐姐的信中提到，这些玩偶让她想起了墨西哥。站在那里，

我从这些传奇人物的日常生活细节中感受到了一种令人满足的亲近感，这既使他们不再神秘，也让我们更加欣赏他们非凡的成就。

在卡罗的一位熟人——多产的英裔画家、雕塑家兼小说家莱奥诺拉·卡林顿（Leonora Carrington）的前居所中，我也曾有过类似的体验。卡林顿是逃离欧洲前往墨西哥的一群超现实主义艺术家之一，在她漫长而绚烂的一生中，她创作了近十本书和 2,000 多件视觉作品——这些神秘的创作通常是人类与动物的混合体，当时的崇拜者爱德华·詹姆斯（Edward James）曾说这些作品像是“在午夜时分从大锅中具现而出的”。

卡林顿前往墨西哥的旅程读起来像一部冒险小说。在 1930 年代，她背弃了兰开夏郡保守天主教家庭的贵族舒适生活，前往佛罗伦萨学习艺术，并在巴黎过着波希米亚式的生活，在那里她与德国出生的达达主义和超现实主义先驱马克斯·恩斯特（Max Ernst）产生了浪漫关系。她在 1940 年惊险地逃离了纳粹入侵，逃往西班牙，并在那里策略性地嫁给了一位墨西哥外交官，随后秘密前往葡萄牙和纽约，最终在 1942 年在墨西哥城找到了避难所。1948 年，卡林顿与她新婚的匈牙利裔摄影师丈夫搬进了罗马区（Roma neighborhood）的一栋房子里，并在那里住了 20 年才搬到美国。在她的最后几十年里，她回到了这座墨西哥城的房子居住和工作。（如今，该区遍布墨西哥城最时尚的咖啡馆、酒吧和餐厅，但从阿尔方索·库阿隆 2018 年获得奥斯卡奖的电影《罗马》中，可以感受到几十年前这里宁静的魅力。）

卡林顿在 2011 年去世时享年 94 岁，此前一直默默无闻，但死后她的艺术声誉飞速提升。原计划将其位于奇瓦瓦街（Chihuahua Street）、受包豪斯风格启发的三层寓所开放为公共博物馆，但该计划在 2024 年受挫，目前该建筑由大都会自治大学（Metropolitan Autonomous University）作为研究中心——莱奥诺拉·卡林顿工作室故居（Leonora Carrington House Studio）进行保护。真正的追随者可以通过预约访问（并支付 $100 的高额费用）。自卡林顿去世以来，这些充满生活气息的房间几乎未被触动，屋内装饰着原装的青铜雕塑，构成了一部神话般的兽谱：长着人脸的猫、一只头顶新月形月亮的等身马，以及一只背上骑着小鳄鱼的鳄鱼（其较大版本可见于几个街区外的因苏赫延特斯大道）。最私密的空间再次是厨房，香料依然在架子上，烟灰缸里有一根抽了一半的烟，橱柜门上随意贴着快照，水槽旁蜷缩着一座幻想生物的深色雕塑。

墨西哥城对作家的崇拜程度不亚于对视觉艺术家的崇拜。其中最新且最引人入胜的文学圣地之一，是哥伦比亚出生的诺贝尔文学奖得主加夫列尔·加西亚·马尔克斯（Gabriel García Márquez）那座格调高雅的故居。这座房子位于富裕的南部社区哈尔迪内斯-德尔-佩德雷加尔（Jardines del Pedregal，意为“石头花园”），他与家人在此居住了39年，直到2014年以 87. 高龄去世。亲友和粉丝们亲切地称他为“加博”（Gabo），凭借在20世纪60年代中期于墨西哥城创作的杰作《百年孤独》，他当时已成为拉丁美洲最受推崇的作家之一，而他位于火街（Calle Fuego）的住所迅速成为了这座首都知识分子生活的交汇点。2025年，其家人正式将其开放为加夫列尔·加西亚·马尔克斯文学之家（Casa de la Literatura Gabriel García Márquez），访客可通过预约参观。

“我喜欢亲自带领参观，尽管我从不透露自己的身份，”加西亚·马尔克斯36岁的孙女埃米莉亚·加西亚·埃利松多（Emilia García Elizondo）说道。“因为我是家人，我可以提供一些关于加博的小见解。例如，我的祖父只坐过这把椅子，”她指着一把看起来很舒适的白色软垫躺椅说道。我们在温馨的客厅里漫步，墙上装饰着艺术家朋友为加西亚·马尔克斯及其妻子梅赛德斯·巴查（Mercedes Barcha）创作的油画肖像和青铜胸像。“在我的祖母于2020, 年去世后，我们不想卖掉这座家族住宅。这里充满了回忆。对我们来说很难放手，但我们当时没有长期计划。”他们卖掉了加西亚·马尔克斯的衣服，将钱捐给了一家位于墨西哥恰帕斯州的儿童慈善机构，随后在决定正式开放之前举办了一些小型展览。

我穿过修剪整齐的花园，来到独立的书房-图书馆，会见了加西亚·马尔克斯的儿子之一——64岁的冈萨洛·加西亚·巴查（Gonzalo García Barcha）。这位留着胡须的平面设计师回忆道，他的父母喜欢在家里招待著名的作家、政治家和电影明星。“我记得菲德尔来这里的时候，”他沉思道。“肖恩·潘（Sean Penn）也带着好莱坞的人来过，他们想把《族长之秋》拍成电影，”那是加西亚·马尔克斯1975年写的一部关于没落独裁者的小说。

加西亚·巴查表示，家人将这座房子设想为一个举办讲座、谈话和读书会活动的场所：

宁静之景 拉夸德拉-圣克里斯托巴尔（La Cuadra San Cristóbal）的一面亮粉色墙壁和反射池，这里曾是一个建于20世纪60年代后期的马场，并于2025年重新开放为博物馆。

“这里的氛围与经过策划的博物馆截然不同。这是我父母生活了几十年的地方。这是他们离世的地方。这些是加博的书，他的办公室。这里曾是一个工作场所。”文学遗物的随意呈现令人兴奋：图书馆里有一张狭窄的木桌，加西亚·马尔克斯就在上面写成了《百年孤独》（原稿保存在城另一端的苏玛亚博物馆）；而书房里则有一张更大的书桌，他在上面写成了《霍乱时期的爱情》。墙上挂着一张由理查德·阿维顿（Richard Avedon）拍摄的加西亚·马尔克斯肖像照。其他快照显示他1982, 年在斯德哥尔摩领取诺贝尔奖的情景，以及他与美国总统们在一起的照片。

尽管在哥伦比亚的加勒比海岸长大，但加西亚·马尔克斯在成熟期成为了热爱文学的墨西哥城一个极受欢迎的“养子”。“出租车司机都知道他的住址，”加西亚·巴查说。“他去世时，街道上挤满了人，以至于朋友们整整一周都进不去。”

我追寻的最后一位艺术天才从事的是一个完全不同的领域：建筑学。路易斯·巴拉甘（Luis Barragán）在20世纪中期脱颖而出，成为最具有影响力的设计师—。

在拉丁美洲，路易斯·巴拉甘（Luis Barragán）因其独特的创作而在墨西哥城久负盛名。他将极简主义与大胆的色彩相结合，唤起了一种彩色版本的弗兰克·劳埃德·赖特（Frank Lloyd Wright）风格。尽管他个人生活简朴，习惯甚至像僧侣一样克制，但他却让这座城市对粉红色产生了热爱——例如，现在的出租车、地铁站和许多房屋都选择这种颜色，这源于他对家乡哈利斯科州（Jalisco）九重葛之花的喜爱。如今，前往旅行的艺术爱好者在整个墨西哥城（CDMX）寻找他的作品。令人沮丧的是，除了一个以外，他的所有杰作均由私人所有，且预约规则繁琐，开放时间古怪。

因此，当 La Cuadra San Cristóbal 在 2025 年向公众开放时，这无疑是个好消息。这是一个宏伟的、占地 6.7 英亩的前马场，由巴拉甘在 20 世纪 60 年代中期设计，位于城市遥远的北部。它在 2024 年被费尔南多·罗梅罗基金会（Fernando Romero Foundation）收购，该基金会由成就卓著的墨西哥城建筑师费尔南多·罗梅罗（Fernando Romero）领导。（罗梅罗自己的代表作是标志性的苏玛亚博物馆，该馆于 2011 年揭幕，像一个蛋白霜蛋糕一样由银色瓷砖旋涡般升起。）在前往 La Cuadra 的一小时出租车行程中，我经过了巴拉甘气势磅礴的卫星塔（Satellite Towers）——五座涂成大胆原色（蓝色、两座白色、黄色和红色）的混凝土方尖碑，在繁忙的高速公路之上耸立，高度在 98 到 171 英尺之间。我从一条狭窄的后路进入了这座前马场，这里与巴拉甘的所有作品一样，是一个融合了艺术与自然的宁静之所。我与大约 100 名游客一起探索这些宏伟的建筑。几何形状的粉色和白色墙壁，其间点缀着亮蓝色的水池、郁郁葱葱的绿树和令人着迷的喷泉，唤起了一种万花筒般的巨石阵感。在所谓的“秘密花园”中，巴拉甘将幼苗的枝条绑在一起，使它们生长成植被隧道；如今，它们成了足以媲美精灵森林的繁茂隐秘之所。

罗梅罗亲自带领游客参观 La Cuadra 的新亮点：一个致力于巴拉甘作品的博物馆展览，该展览使用了他自己的原话（名为“巴拉甘论巴拉甘”），并配有每件作品的详细比例模型。罗梅罗解释说，墨西哥城最独特的一处遗址，也是如今参观起来最古怪的一处：卡普钦修道院礼拜堂（Capuchin Convent Chapel），由虔诚的天主教徒巴拉甘在 1955 到 1963 年间设计并建造。这座礼拜堂目前仍是修女住所的一部分。预约名额有限，且只能通过电话预约。事实上，我前三次打电话都没有人接。最后，一位年长的修女接了电话，但她说她找不到预约登记簿——另一位修女把它放错地方了。我能再打回来吗？最终又尝试了三次才抢到一个名额。

这种挑战反而增加了期待感。上午 10:30，我终于站在一个名为特拉尔潘（Tlalpan）的遥远南部社区的一条安静街道上，按响了一个没有标记的木门铃。门最终吱呀一声开了，一位穿着黑色修女服的八旬修女怀疑地打量着我。“你迟到了半小时，”她责备道，然后才勉强让我进去。她拿着一个柳编托盘，让我把手机（禁止拍照！）和 200 比索（$11）现金留在上面。（她笑着告诉我，这里不能刷信用卡。）

即使按照墨西哥城的标准，这座修道院也有一种超凡脱俗的气息。在自我介绍为玛丽亚·德洛斯·多洛雷斯（María de los Dolores）修女后，她领我进入一个紧凑的内部庭院，那里有一个玻璃般的水池，倒映着被藤蔓环绕的金黄色格栅。在寂静的礼拜堂内部，一束金色的晨曦神奇地照亮了镀金祭坛，而一个极简主义的十字架在发光的橙色墙壁上投下阴影。“巴拉甘在与光玩游戏，”玛丽亚·德洛斯·多洛雷斯修女简单地说。礼拜堂优雅的松木装饰是

书房

在加夫列尔·加西亚·马尔克斯文学之家，作者在照片中与家人以及比尔·克林顿、科菲·安南和巴拉克·奥巴马等名流一同出现。下方，自然光充盈着一间工作室。

除了更衣室里挂的一面镜子外，这里与1963年时的样子毫无二致。“院长想看看自己穿衣服时的样子，”修女带着苦笑说道。

玛丽亚·德洛斯·多洛雷斯修女是这座修道院里仅有的11位年长修女之一，她回忆说，在巴拉甘于1988年去世前，他经常来这里参加礼拜，两人见过很多次。“他非常有信仰，而且非常慷慨，”她说，“我们负担不起一座新礼拜堂，所以他承担了大部分费用。”不过，她透露，这个过程并非一帆风顺：由于巴拉甘与院长在艺术观点上存在分歧，工程被推迟了两年。根据她的讲述，“院长想要一个拱形屋顶，但他不愿修改设计。后来院长去世了，继任的院长说：‘让我们尽快完成已经开始的工作吧！’于是他们按照巴拉甘的计划进行了建设。”

我们最后回到了一个办公桌前，修女们在那里摆了一个简陋的小摊，售卖饼干、蜂蜜、蛋奶酒、明信片和纪念册——仅限现金支付。

在返回市中心的路上，我绕道去了最后一座博物馆，这里是墨西哥城艺术脉络的交汇点：一座名为 Anahuacalli（读作“ana-wa-KAH-li”）的奇幻建筑。这座博物馆由里维拉在20世纪40年代设计，用于展示他的前哥伦布时期艺术私人收藏。这是他终身捍卫墨西哥艺术遗产的巅峰之作：里维拉在10岁时，即1896, 购得了他的第一件墨西哥古董，30年后，他拥有了60,000件需要安置的藏品。他和卡罗都将 Anahuacalli 的第一块石头 CONTINUED ON PAGE 126

跳跃的足， 潜望镜般的 眼睛，蜿蜒 形状的 育儿室—— 欢迎来到 奇妙的 软体动物 世界

低潮 在佛罗里达州迈尔斯堡的海滩上，一只巨大的大西洋鸟蛤敞开着，背景中一名海滩拾荒者正在寻找贝壳。

谁住在壳里？

摄影：DEVON MATTHEWS

文字：JENNIE ROTHENBERG GRITZ

贝壳是一个生物生命的故事，

一行行地书写而成。软体动物用碳酸钙晶体保护自己，随着生长不断增加新层。这些条带和脊线可能揭示了季节的变换、饮食习惯和生命周期。贝壳的多种形状也反映了自软体动物首次出现后的5 亿年间，不同物种是如何演化的。那时，它们的壳只是简单的盖子和螺旋。如今的软体动物包括扇形的扇贝、多刺的海螺和螺旋形的鹦鹉螺。

然而，大多数在海滩上捡贝壳的人并不会过多思考制造它们的动物。“普通公民会说：‘嗯，我以为它们就那样在那儿，’位于佛罗里达州萨尼贝尔岛的贝利-马修斯国家贝壳博物馆的科学总监兼策展人何塞·莱阿尔（José Leal）说道。莱阿尔提醒参观者，贝壳并非像岩石那样简单地由自然元素形成。软体动物从水中吸收钙和碳，并将分子融合在一起，通过一个名为外套膜的身体部位产生一种像岩石一样的物质。双壳类动物——如蛤蜊、牡蛎、贻贝和扇贝——将

海滩漫步

一只佛罗里达马蹄螺伸出巨大的橙色足部，在萨尼贝尔岛的海边爬行。这种大型海蜗牛的分布范围从北卡罗来纳州延伸至墨西哥的尤卡坦半岛，是一种以小型软体动物为食的肉食动物。它利用足部使猎物窒息，并且可能还会释放麻痹化学物质。

拾贝者请注意

萨尼贝尔岛上的一个告示提醒游客不要将活的软体动物带回家。这片海滩拥有数百种软体动物，是全球贝壳爱好者的最热门目的地之一。佛罗里达鱼类和野生动物委员会还禁止采集活的沙钱币星鱼、海胆和海星。

图案 可能有助于 伪装， 但许多 软体动物 拥有斑点 状的贝壳， 使它们 显得格外 显眼， 而非融入环境。

深入挖掘

敌方领地 一只带状郁金香螺在活马蹄螺的背上产下卵囊——奇怪的是，马蹄螺正是它的主要捕食者之一。郁金香螺的目标是将卵固定在坚硬的表面上，以免被水流冲走。它的后代将以幼虫形式孵化并沉降到海底。

螃蟹小屋 一只寄居蟹在梨形织纹螺的壳内安家，而其他软体动物则在壳顶上徘徊。螃蟹拥有自己的外骨骼，会定期脱壳（并经常将其吃掉）。为了获得全面保护，它必须寻找比自身身体所能提供的更大、更坚硬的壳作为庇护所。

它们将自身包裹在两个铰接的壳之间。海蜗牛则构建一个单一的螺旋形壳，看起来像软冰淇淋蛋筒的顶部。

这些生物是如何产生如此丰富的颜色和图案的？“这就是那个价值 $64,000 的关键问题，”利尔（Leal）说道。颜色是将晶体结合在一起的蛋白质基质的一部分。利尔在伦敦自然历史博物馆的同事苏珊·威廉姆斯（Suzanne Williams）研究了这些色素——粉色和黄色的卟啉、棕色和黑色的黑色素、橙色的类胡萝卜素——并发现某些基因会开启或关闭特定颜色的产生，从而形成点状或条纹。图案可能有助于动物伪装。但许多栖息在沙地中的软体动物拥有斑点状的贝壳，使它们显得格外显眼，而非融入环境。独特的图案可能有助于同物种的生物相互识别，但软体动物的色彩视觉较差。“关于很多很多事情，我们完全没有头绪，”利尔说道。

当人们在海滩上发现贝壳时，它们通常已经空了。曾经在其中的软体动物已经萎缩死亡，或者被海鸟啄走。贝壳依然复杂而美丽，但当内部的生命消失后，颜色往往会变得暗淡。一旦生物死亡，贝壳就变得像任何其他物体一样

令人惊叹的景象

佛罗里达战斗蜗牛的眼睛可以从壳中伸出。右侧和下方所示的这些生物属于一类具有异常敏锐视觉的软体动物。为了更加方便，它们的眼柄可以像潜望镜一样在浅水表面上方窥视。当蜗牛发现捕食者时，它可以利用巨大的足部跳开。

留在阳光和盐水中。晶体开始降解，贝壳随之风化褪色。一些微小的软体动物拥有透明的壳，当其栖息者离开后，壳会变得不透明。

偶尔，尤其是在低潮时，海滩游客可能会发现软体动物活生生的足部从壳中伸出。根据物种的不同，这块长而灵活的肌肉允许生物爬行、挖掘、游泳或抓捕猎物。蛤类利用足部将自己固定在沙中。蜗牛则利用足部在海底跳跃。

“孩子们对这些东西关注得多，”野生动物摄影师德文·马修斯（Devon Matthews）说道，他从家乡明尼苏达州前往萨尼贝尔岛（Sanibel Island）拍摄这个故事。“但有时人们很容易直接走过这些东西，而没有真正仔细观察。”马修斯是一位经验丰富的微距摄影师——专门拍摄微小昆虫的近距离图像——他利用特殊的相机附件和自然光，找到了拍摄软体动物从壳中窥视的创新方法。“我认为看到它们的近距离照片或许能帮助成年人重新唤起那种好奇心，”他说。

生命之环 一只闪电盘螺一次可产卵多达 20,000 枚。首先，她利用足部下方的一个腺体卷出一个带有独立囊泡的长壳，如左图所示。如上图所示，她在每个圆盘中产下约 200 枚卵。在游走之前，盘螺将整串卵固定在海底。孵化出的幼体将通过小孔游走。

这座岛屿 异常宽阔， 洋流在其 15 英里的 海滩上沉积了 400 多种 贝壳物种。

利尔（Leal）记得自己在里约热内卢成长时的好奇心。“在 50 年代末、60 年代初，那个地方就是天堂，”他说。“那里有太多现在因为人类侵占、水污染之类的原因而看不见的生物。去岩石海岸走走，看到活螃蟹、活蠕虫和软体动物，那是神奇的。我的意思是，简直令人惊叹。”

利尔在 90 年代中期曾在史密森尼学会的国家自然历史博物馆担任了两年的博士后研究员，研究深海软体动物。从那时起，他就一直在萨尼贝尔岛的博物馆工作，他的大部分工作是向公众进行教育。萨尼贝尔的贝壳是巨大的旅游吸引力。这座岛屿异常宽阔，与佛罗里达海岸线垂直，洋流在其

作者简介

总部位于明尼阿波利斯的摄影师德文·马修斯（Devon Matthews）在苏必利尔湖岸拍摄野生动物时开启了他的职业生涯。

史密森尼学会高级编辑珍妮·罗森伯格·格里茨（Jennie Rothenberg Gritz）最近为杂志撰写的文章是关于乔治亚·欧姬芙（Georgia O'Keeffe）的人物简介。

15 英里的海滩上沉积了 400 多种贝壳物种。

当游客抵达，被这座岛屿的美丽和多样性所吸引时，利尔会告诉他们保护那里生物的重要性。这意味着要思考更大的环境系统。随着空气中的碳沉入水中，水质正变得越来越酸。这种化学性质的变化使得软体动物更难以形成和维持其厚实的贝壳。

Leal 还教导人们避免将活体软体动物带回家，这在萨尼贝尔岛（Sanibel Island）是违法的。游客最容易被那些标志性的大型贝壳所吸引，例如郁金香蜗牛、马蹄螺和闪电螺。但当他们看到有足部伸出——或者感觉到贝壳分外沉重时——将这些生物留在原处让其安宁至关重要。“如果你觉得这个贝壳很酷，”Leal 说，“那么现在你知道，有一个同样酷的动物创造了它。”

海滩之王

一只王冠海螺（因其顶部有一圈突出的尖刺而得名）在低潮时沿着海岸前行。这些软体动物是捕食者，不过它们只以比自己移动速度更慢的生物为食。牡蛎和蛤蜊是它们最喜爱的食物来源。它们留在浅水区，以避开那些能将它们吞噬的深海生物。

收集者

上方，一位贝壳爱好者正在萨尼贝尔岛附近的水域寻找宝藏。顶部是当天发现的部分贝壳。左侧较大的贝壳包括一只带有橙色斑点的字母锥螺、一只蕾丝骨螺和一只色彩斑斓的月螺。两只手中间放着一只带状郁金香螺，它是照片中最大的贝壳。右侧的微小贝壳包括一只幼年马海螺和一只佛罗里达锥螺。

解码

长

新冠

谜题

一份脑脊液样本正在加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）的长新冠研究实验室中进行处理。对面页：著名的长新冠患者研究员朱莉娅·摩尔·沃格尔（Julia Moore Vogel）。

作者：迈克·马里亚尼（MIKE MARIANI）

摄影：瑞秋·布贾尔斯基（RACHEL BUJALSKI）和凯特·沃伦（KATE WARREN）

在疫情开始近七年后，我们是否终于在逐步揭开病毒感染如何演变为一种慢性且致残性疾病的真相？

当 Covid-19 疫情通过商业飞机和邮轮席卷美国时，朱莉娅·摩尔·沃格尔与丈夫鲍比（Bobby）以及他们 2 岁的女儿住在阳光明媚的圣迭戈郊区。沃格尔拥有康奈尔大学的计算生物学与医学博士学位以及工商管理硕士（MBA）学位，当时在拉霍亚（La Jolla）的斯克里普斯研究所（Scripps Research）工作。她非常热爱自己的工作，负责管理一项由美国国立卫生研究院（NIH）资助的雄心勃勃的研究项目——“全民研究计划”（All of Us Research Program）。该计划收集来自美国各阶层广泛人群的健康信息，包括生物样本、

与长新冠共存 沃格尔在斯克里普斯研究所担任项目总监时，于 2020 年 7 月感染新冠，导致她出现了令人衰弱的慢性症状——在估计受长新冠影响的 2100 万美国人中，她便是其中之一。她的生活和工作被这种疾病彻底重塑。从顶部起顺时针方向：沃格尔与母亲特蕾莎·摩尔（Theresa Moore）在纽约州北部的父母家中；沃格尔在整理她的每日药物和补充剂，这是一个为了管理多种症状而不断调整的组合；摩尔在帮沃格尔操作轮椅，沃格尔依靠轮椅来缓解极度的身体疲劳。

凯特·沃伦 (3)

健康记录以及来自近 750,000 人的其他医疗数据，这些数据或许有一天能为治疗毁灭性疾病提供方案。沃格尔告诉我，她的职业让她能够“在科学与商业的交汇点工作”，帮助确保研究发现能够突破学术界，从而影响药物开发和医生的医疗实践。

沃格尔曾是一名大学越野跑运动员，她习惯于在下午时分在托里派恩斯（Torrey Pines）州立公园蜿蜒的小径上慢跑，或者在社区里推着婴儿车散步；而在周末，她则享受着在沙滩上陪女儿玩耍，而她的丈夫则在卡梅尔谷（Carmel Valley）浅滩冲向岸边的浪花中冲浪。“我以前在每一天、每一周里都能安排如此丰富的内容，”她说。

在疫情最初的几个月里，人们根据封锁令被限制在家中，学校关闭，国家在艰难地寻找 N95 口罩和呼吸机，沃格尔和她的家人极其谨慎。她只在丈夫外出买菜时离开家，看着女儿在户外玩耍。他们无论去哪里都戴口罩。然而，在那个夏天的某一天，沃格尔注意到

她尝不出早晨薄荷茶的味道了。她的嗅觉也随之消失。几天后，她被诊断出感染新冠。即便在现在，她病发的准确日期，2020 年 7 月 8 日，依然让她无法忘记。

Vogel 的感染让她陷入了发烧、呼吸短促和极度疲劳之中。然而，就在她以为自己即将康复时，接下来的几周里，她的身体和精神状态开始崩溃。她感觉到自己的精力被逐渐抽干。剧烈的偏头痛让她在床上痛苦地翻滚，在疼痛中失去方向感。她在斯克里普斯（Scripps）的岗位上请了一周假，接着是第二周，然后是第三周。最终，她在 8 月恢复了远程办公。但短短几个小时内，她就直觉地感到有些不对劲。“我看着那些平时只需要很短时间就能完成的任务，现在却觉得它们根本无法完成。”

也许有 2100 万名美国成年人，即超过 8% 的人，经历过与长新冠相关的症状。

Vogel 在注意力集中和记忆回溯方面感到吃力。她发现自己在日常对话中会混淆词汇和短语。最令人不安的是，每当 Vogel 勉强自己去做事——比如去看医生、带女儿去参加玩伴聚会、逛当地公园——她的其他症状在事后会变得更加严重。她最终了解到其他人也在遭受类似的痛苦——“长新冠患者”（long-haulers）和“长新冠”（long Covid）这些术语在 2020 年 5 月时就已被使用——但临床医生在做出此类诊断时犹豫不决，因为这种病症尚未被完全定义。这是长新冠患者面临的艰苦且艰难的斗争的早期迹象。尽管如此，到 2020 年 8 月下旬，Vogel 强烈怀疑自己患有这种慢性形式的新冠，无论它究竟是什么。

大多数位于拉霍亚（La Jolla）的斯克里普斯（Scripps）工作人员开始返回她卧室里的一天，那是她睡觉、康复并使用放置在床垫上的床桌工作的单调避难所。

一名天生的且受过训练的研究员，Vogel 开始利用一切能挤出的时间来了解自己的病情。她搜寻在线支持小组，阅读所有能找到的科学论文，并潜心研读 Ed Yong 等记者的作品，这些人正在记录这种令人困惑的新病症的出现。在人们几乎因新冠而死亡的时期——

实验室内部

从左上角起顺时针方向：在由加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）和扎克伯格旧金山综合医院与创伤中心共同运行的长新冠研究实验室中，从液氮储存罐中取出生物样本；埃马纽埃尔·维拉斯奎兹（Emmanuel Velazquez）将一份脑脊液样本放入离心机进行处理；实验室的细胞计数仪；来自实验室“组织库”的生物样本，该组织库保存着从肠道、淋巴结、骨髓和脊髓中提取的组织；一个装有低温冷冻生物样本的盒子。

2021年3月的办公室。而继续远程工作的沃格尔（Vogel）则再也没能回去。到2021年，她在社区里行走都感到困难；到2022年，她因为担心体力消耗会导致卧床不起而避开楼梯。37岁的她，行动起来像一个年龄是她两倍的人那样虚弱且谨慎，最终她购置了一把轮椅以减轻对体力的负担。在两年时间里，她从一名活泼的科学家、一名活跃的妻子和母亲，变成了每天花费18小时——到2022年中期，已有超过100万美国人死于该病毒——长新冠患者努力地从那些指责他们装病或患有心身疾病的怀疑论者手中，夺回关于他们这种可以说不那么紧急的病症的话语权。

与此同时，长新冠治疗诊所开始纷纷出现，以满足绝望患者的需求。到2022年，一个名为“新冠长新冠倡导项目”（Covid-19 Longhauler Advocacy Project）的患者支持组织编制了一份全国范围内此类医疗机构的名单，共计400家，提供从康复治疗、物理治疗到生活方式调整等各项服务，以帮助管理慢性疾病。少数几家大型医疗中心，包括纽约的蒙特西奈医院、耶鲁-纽黑文医院和斯坦福大学，提供了更专业的护理：他们的临床医生采取了一种即兴的治疗方法，在希望能够减轻症状（即便不能直接解决长新冠依然神秘的根源）的情况下，非适应症地使用抗病毒药物、免疫系统调节剂和抗炎药物。（直到今天，还没有任何药物获得FDA批准用于专门治疗长新冠。）

随着患者们强烈要求美国医疗体系承认长新冠的严重性，并投入资源和专业知识来阐明该病，沃格尔的上司、著名分子科学家埃里克·托波尔（Eric Topol）邀请她参与一项针对现有研究的里程碑式科学文献综述。这个项目让沃格尔有机会与汉娜·戴维斯（Hannah Davis）和丽莎·麦考科尔（Lisa McCorkell）合作，她们是一个由担任研究员、科学家和倡导者的患者群体共同创立的影响力组织，被称为“患者主导研究协作组”（PLRC）。

这次合作产生的论文《长新冠：主要发现、机制与建议》于2023年1月发表在《自然-微生物学评论》（Nature Reviews Microbiology）上，此后在线阅读量已达200万次，并被其他科学家引用了4,000次，使其成为当年发表的顶尖学术论文之一。托波尔告诉沃格尔，这是他在辉煌的五十年职业生涯中所参与的最常被引用的论文之一。沃格尔表示，这篇论文不仅是对长新冠研究前三年的关键概述（此前该领域景观零散，外部研究人员难以把握），而且患者们还经常在就诊时向医生出示该论文的副本，以此来证明其症状的真实性以及该疾病的合法性。

对于沃格尔来说，这篇论文成为了一个极具价值的职业转折点。“共同撰写了这样一篇具有影响力且被高度引用文章，让我瞬间在长新冠研究领域获得了认可，”她告诉我。然而，在家里，沃格尔和她的丈夫却在苦苦支撑。他们的房子很少被清理，玩具散落在地板上，厨房里堆满了脏盘子，洗好的衣服在笨重的堆里混在一起。即便在她的母亲特蕾莎·摩尔（Theresa Moore）开始每隔一个月从纽约州北部飞来帮忙烹饪、清洁、照顾孩子和其他杂事之后，这个家庭依然不堪重负。“我一直处于生存模式，”沃格尔回忆道。

自从那些早期日子以来——那时没有人知道“长新冠患者”会病多久，或者有多少人在受苦——我们对这种病症有了更清晰的认识。美国疾病控制与预防中心（CDC）经常被引用（尽管在概念上较为宽泛）的定义将长新冠描述为新冠感染后的一种“慢性病症”，其特点是“持续至少三个月，表现为连续的、复发且缓解的，或进行性的疾病状态，影响一个或多个器官系统”。患者主导研究协作组（PLRC）和其他志同道合的团体列出了 200 多种相关症状，包括疲劳、肌肉无力、关节疼痛、喉咙痛、失眠、注意力集中困难、记忆问题以及劳后不适（post-exertional malaise）——这是一种极其折磨人的功能障碍，在进行曾经的日常活动后会加剧其他症状。

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蒂姆·亨里希（Tim Henrich）是加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）的一位医生，也是领先的长新冠病毒学家。他说，解决长新冠之谜的第一步就是收集碎片。“我们基本上把拼图碎片散落在桌子上。”但他说，“我认为它们都在那里。”

关于有多少人受到长新冠影响的估计差异很大，但保守评估表明，或许有 2100 万 名美国成年人（或超过 8 percent）经历过与长新冠相关的症状，并且这种疾病经常导致超过 100 万名成年人无法进入劳动力市场。

一部分患者遭受该病症的严重表现，在慢性疼痛、认知功能障碍和衰竭性疲劳中苦苦挣扎。包括沃格尔在内的这部分人群规模相对较小：微生物学家、致力于寻求治疗新冠等感染相关慢性病的非营利组织 PolyBio 的联合创始人艾米·普罗尔（Amy Proal）估计，这种极端形式影响了大约 2 percent 的新冠感染者（这个数字仍可能代表 200 万多人）。但普罗尔表示，对他们而言，这完全是“改变人生”的——不仅让他们致残，还让他们在工作或执行基本家务时倍感艰辛，且经常为了维持生计而挣扎。

像普罗尔的组织和 PLRC 这样的机构在提高人们对长新冠的认识以及推进该疾病研究方面发挥了至关重要的作用。他们的目标始终是吸引更多医学研究人员进入该领域，以便科学家能够通过阐明其病理学来更清晰地定义这种疾病，并确定医生可以用作确诊的生物标志物。在过去的几年里，病毒学家、微生物学家、传染病医生和其他医学研究人员响应了这一号召，致力于研究这种顽固且不透明的病症，并取得了越来越多的成功。虽然仍有很长的路要走，但人们希望通过追踪这种急性病毒感染演变为慢性多系统疾病的迷宫般路径，能够触及理解长新冠并对其进行有效治疗的关键第一步。

扎克伯格旧金山综合医院与创伤中心（Zuckerberg San Francisco General Hospital and Trauma Center）是位于该市米申区（Mission District）的一组密集且高耸的砖石与混凝土建筑群，紧邻 101 号高速公路，距离海湾以西不到两英里。在二月一个阴雨绵绵、阴云密布的星期里，我前往那里会见迈克尔·佩卢索（Michael Peluso）——一名传染病临床医生兼研究员——以及他在加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）的团队。该大学于 2023 年在医院校园内开设了一座名为 Pride Hall 的现代化新设施，许多医院的教职人员和研究人员的办公室及实验室都设在这栋大楼内。

研究人员深知，传染病比它们最初呈现的样子要复杂得多。

当我在那里的办公室会见 Peluso 及其同事时，天空被灰色地抹了一层。

Peluso 是一位沉稳、冷静的科学家，留着一头黑发，带着深色的胡茬，有一双棕色的眼睛。他在大学里运行一个名为“新型冠状病毒感染的长期影响”（Long-term Impact of Infection With Novel Coronavirus，简称 LIINC）的项目。在位于 Pride Hall 的总部，该项目与参与美国国立卫生研究院（NIH）Recover 项目（同样在研究长新冠）的 UCSF 研究人员共用一层楼。Peluso 的职业生涯始于对 HIV 的研究，探讨该病毒对大脑和神经系统的复杂影响。“我当时非常感兴趣的是，HIV 如何在人体内持续存在，这种持续存在会带来什么后果，以及我们是否能改变这一点，”他告诉我。他特别关注 的“病毒库”——隐藏在全身组织细胞中的病毒残余——如何驱动神经炎症和血管损伤等影响，以及帮助患者使用抗逆转录病毒药物抑制病毒是否能减轻其连锁反应。“然后，你知道的，2020 happened。”

当新冠病毒开始在旧金山传播时，Peluso 请求他的导师、著名的 研究员 Steven Deeks，探讨他们是否能帮助应对这场公共卫生危机。两人此前一直在对 患者进行一项长期观察研究，但旧金山公共卫生局在全市封锁期间突然暂停了该研究。在研究停摆且全市处于严格居家令的情况下，Peluso 和 Deeks 构思了一个想法：如果他们将现有的资源和基础设施——研究人员、研究方案、先进实验室的使用权——重新用于追踪新冠病毒的长期影响会怎样？“我们当时完全不知道 SARS-CoV-2 将如何影响健康，”Deeks 在提到导致 Covid-19 的特定冠状病毒时告诉我。但基于他们研究 的经验，研究人员深知，传染病比它们最初呈现的样子要复杂得多。“我们的假设是，它将产生一些长期影响。”Peluso 说，“SARS-CoV-2 在出现时的速度、规模和严重程度，就足以让人清楚地意识到，情况不会那么简单。”

事实上，在研究开始的第一个月，即 2020, 4 月，Peluso 及其团队就已经接诊了报告康复情况不均的患者，他们的体力与活力远未达到病前基准线。对此，Peluso 继续说道：“我们召集了像我这样的临床研究人员、流行病学家、实验室科学家、生物统计学家和实验室医学专家，试图理解新冠后急性期的所有方面。”其结果被 Deeks 认为是“首个针对非住院新冠患者的纵向队列研究”。

LIINC 的办公室很现代，虽然没什么特别之处，像一个迷宫般的

图片；我们正在观察多张相互偏移的图片。”

关于 SARS-CoV-2 病毒如何在体内扎根并演变为我们称之为“长新冠”的慢性疾病，存在几种假设，且这些假设并不一定互斥。其中一种是，身体为了根除急性新冠感染而做出的持续努力可能会激活其他潜伏病毒——免疫系统一直在抑制大量低水平的感染——包括 Epstein-Barr 病毒和巨细胞病毒。来自 PolyBio 的 Proal 表示，这些重新激活的病毒随后会“扩散到新部位，并本身驱动更多慢性症状”。

这些反应或许可以解释为什么免疫系统无法将病毒从体内完全清除。

白色的隔间和凌乱的办公桌，其中心是一个优雅的休息室，拥有可俯瞰城市起伏天际线的落地窗。佩卢索（Peluso）和我乘电梯来到一楼，这里有一个完整的翼楼专门用于接诊 LIINC 大型观察性研究或该项目各项长新冠研究中注册的 2,000 名左右的患者：这些研究包括测试单克隆抗体的有效性，以及 Paxlovid 等抗病毒药物和类风湿性关节炎药物巴瑞西替尼（baricitinib）的临床试验。随后，我们在雨中艰难地走到相邻的一栋建筑，LIINC 在那里进行腰椎穿刺、组织活检和其他侵入性操作，以收集用于研究和实验的生物样本。

在一条走廊里，我们经过一块日期为 1983 年 7 月 25 日的青铜纪念牌，上面纪念着“第一个艾滋病病房”，当时的护理人员“聚集在一起面对一场新的流行病”。该医院是美国最早治疗 HIV / AIDS 的医院之一，许多加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）的临床医生成为了研究这种致命病毒的先驱，当时这种病毒正在圣弗朗西斯科杀死数千名男同性恋者。对于长新冠，佩卢索认为这是该大学和医院再次担任开拓者的机会。“这两个研究项目都诞生于一个混乱和不确定的时代，”他说，“在一个不惧怕在不确定性中应对这类难题的地方工作，并拥有这样的传承——这在最初为我们提供意义和目标方面至关重要。”

在我的旅途中，我惊讶地发现许多研究人员表示，长新冠最终可能会被证明是一种比 HIV / AIDS 更棘手、更难以捉摸的疾病。UCSF 的转化病毒学家蒂姆·亨里希（Tim Henrich）用了一个令人畏惧的类比来传达其复杂性。当亨里希大约 10 岁时，他的表亲们送给他一份相当具有挑战性的生日礼物。“那是一个一千块的拼图，”他回忆道。然而，拼图的每一块并不是只有一面有图像碎片，而是背面也有同样的图像，但旋转了 90 度，这要求他实际上必须同时完成两个拼图。“长新冠就像那样，”亨里希说，“不仅仅是我们正在观察一个

人性因素 UCSF 的“新型冠状病毒感染长期影响”（LIINC）项目在进行中的研究中已招募了近 2,000 名参与者。从最左侧起顺时针方向依次为：LIINC 临床试验经理艾米莉·费尔曼（Emily Fehrman）为研究参与者称重；研究协调员安迪·萨莫拉（Andhy Zamora）准备内皮（血管内壁）测试；内皮功能数据；萨莫拉进行抽血。

第二种理论认为，免疫系统对抗持久新冠感染的努力导致了免疫失调，从而引发神经炎症和其他有时被称为“疾病行为”的影响。这可能使患者感到持久的病态，因为身体的疾病反应在破碎的循环中不断袭来。第三种观点认为，感染破坏了细胞线粒体，抑制了它们在将食物转化为能量以及为所在细胞提供动力方面的关键作用。

最后，还有一种假设认为，病毒有时会潜伏在身体不同部位的组织中，形成能够逃避免疫系统的病毒蓄积池，并引发一系列不利的生理反应。该领域的大多数研究都倾向于用这一假设来解释长新冠的至少部分病理机制，部分原因是早期研究在肠道中发现了令人信服的病毒持续存在证据。此外，正如 Peluso 向我解释的那样，病毒持续存在提供了一个最简单、最直接的假设：“病原体入侵，停留，然后制造麻烦。”这正是 Peluso 及其 LIINC 同事目前最关注的领域。

认为该领域“需要进行更广泛的思考——并不是因为我认为病毒持续存在不是一个答案，而是因为它可能不是唯一的答案，或者不是适用于所有人的答案。”）

走进一个宽敞的白色前室，Henrich 和我穿上了纸质隔离衣、鞋套，戴上了护目镜和两层手套。最后，我们将手机放入密封袋中。“不要碰任何东西，”Henrich 警告道，他张开双臂，手心向上，以强调其中的风险。那天早晨，一名 LIINC 参与者接受了腰椎

■ ■ ■ 他们震惊地发现，在初次感染甚至已过去数年的人体组织中，依然存在病毒的 RNA。

或许令人惊讶的是，Peluso 最初对病毒持久性可能是长新冠的一个关键特征持怀疑态度。“我们受到的训练是将大多数病原体视为短暂存在的，尤其是像 SARS-CoV-2 这样的 RNA 病毒，”他告诉我。但当 Peluso 和他的同事开始分析来自 LIINC 参与者的组织时，他们震惊地发现，在初次感染已过去数月甚至数年长新冠患者的组织中，依然存在病毒的 RNA。“直到我们在自己的项目中看到这种情况，我才开始意识到，事实可能比教科书上写的更复杂，”他回忆道，“当你看着眼前的载玻片时，这确实令人惊叹。”

在与 Peluso 会面后，我前往 Henrich 的病毒学实验室，实地观察该项目的一些研究工作，该实验室位于 Pride Hall 中 LIINC 运营中心下方的一层。该实验室与加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）另一个独立的专用存储库一起，构成了全美最大的长新冠生物样本库之一。在这里，Henrich 和他的同事分析组织、体液和其他样本，以识别潜伏的 SARS-CoV-2 病毒，并拼凑出这些病毒蓄积池可能造成的不良影响。

该生物样本库还充当一种大规模的“借阅图书馆”：LIINC 的工作人员与世界各地的研究人员通信，并发送样本以支持其他研究和实验。在众多研究人员中，该实验室曾向耶鲁大学的 Akiko Iwasaki 提供样本，她正在研究长新冠的自身免疫性以及感染引起的潜在组织损伤；宾夕法尼亚大学的 Michela Locci，她的团队正在检查 SARS-CoV-2 是否在改变淋巴组织中的免疫反应；以及国家过敏和传染病研究所的科学家 Irini Sereti，她专注于 SARS-CoV-2 触发的特定免疫功能障碍，包括 T 细胞中的功能障碍。（尽管 Peluso 及其 UCSF 同事主要关注病毒持久性，但 Peluso 穿刺，临床医生使用一根长而中空的针头提取脑脊液样本。研究人员现在正将该液体运送到实验室，那是一个拥有高天花板和长而窄的实验台排的大房间，每个实验台都固定着摆满试管、移液管和生物危害容器的架子。该实验室已经处理了来自人体各部位的数万份长新冠组织样本，包括肠道、淋巴结、骨髓和脊髓。（到目前为止，Peluso、Henrich 及其 UCSF 同事仅在肠道和骨髓中发现了病毒蓄积池。）

一旦脑脊液送达，一位名叫 Emmanuel Velazquez 的身材高大、肩膀宽阔的研究员便坐在一个名为生物安全柜的大型金属工作区前开始处理。“我对操作流程了如指掌，”他说。Velazquez 戴着乳胶手套，将样本从装满冰块的泡沫容器中取出，并将液体转移到第二个试管中。然后，他将其带到房间另一侧的离心机前，在那里他将对样本进行“离心”，以去除可能干扰细胞的不必要蛋白质、胶原蛋白和其他生物物质。

在离心机安静地旋转时，Henrich 解释了 LIINC 研究人员如何分析这些纯化样本，以识别病毒持久性的特征，例如典型的抗体、蛋白质或 RNA。就像犯罪现场的物证一样，这些特征有望揭示他们认为病毒持久性可能触发的一系列事件：炎症、血栓、神经损伤或其他有害的生理反应。

当然，如果证明病毒持续存在会导致长新冠，这可能仅仅是一个更长链式反应中的第一个环节。其他关于长新冠病理学的解释中，有一个或多个也可能是该链条的一部分，这不仅有可能，而且很大概率如此——例如，病毒持续存在导致免疫功能障碍，进而引发炎症，或干扰线粒体并导致细胞损伤。正如佩卢索（Peluso）对我所说的那样：“如果病毒持续存在是最上游的机制，那么它是如何触发所有这些被认为会导致长新冠的下游机制的？”

离心机开始轻轻地发出嘀嘀声，信号表明细胞的离心过程已经完成。维拉斯奎兹（Velazquez）拉开机器，取出样本并将其带回安全柜。在那里，他使用移液管将标本分装到 20 个独立的试管中，将分离出的细胞液滴挤入透明塑料容器中。虽然这是常规操作，但转移标本需要高度集中注意力且手部稳定。“你还记得那个‘手术游戏’（Operation）吗？就是你尝试在不碰到边缘的情况下把东西取出来的那个，”亨里希（Henrich）开玩笑说。

维拉斯奎兹在每个试管中精准地挤入 1 毫升样本。标本被分开是为了让 LIINC 能够将其提供给其他实验室；佩卢索告诉我，通过分样，实验室能够为不同的研究人员提供必要的生物材料，以便他们在更广泛的长新冠领域内追求特定的研究方向。佩卢索表示，随着时间的推移，这有助于产生“一套更广泛的治疗方法，可以测试除了‘针对病毒’之外的其他方案”。

最后，维拉斯奎兹将样本放入一个橙色塑料架中，并将其转移到一台工业冷冻机中，样本紧凑地排列在覆盖着霜的白色盒子堆旁边，那些盒子存储着额外的 LIINC 样本。一旦温度足够低，实验室成员就会将样本转移到液氮罐中，该罐维持在约零下 320 华氏度的温度，通过低温冷冻使亨里希及其同事能够让这些细胞——以及隐藏在其中的复杂生物记录——保持活性，并为进一步的实验做好准备。

事实上，在我和亨里希见面几个月后的 5 月，他在由 PolyBio 组织的一场长新冠研讨会上展示了新的研究成果，演示了由病毒持续存在触发的链式反应可能是什么样子。亨里希使用了一种被称为转录组学（transcriptomics）的生物分析方法——该方法记录细胞在给定时刻 RNA 分子的快照，并揭示哪些基因被激活或关闭（可能是由病毒感染引起的）——他展示了长新冠患者的肠道组织如何显示出免疫失调的迹象。在病毒蓄积区附近，某些免疫信号减弱，而其他信号则被放大。这表明免疫系统检测到了病毒，但对其产生了紊乱的反应，可能是因为病毒或其释放的蛋白质干扰了免疫防御。他认为，这些反应不仅可以解释为什么免疫系统无法完全清除体内的病毒，还可以解释其持续存在如何导致慢性炎症。

病毒猎人 迈克尔·佩卢索（Michael Peluso）是加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）的一名传染病临床医生，负责监督 LIINC 研究。在新冠疫情到来时，他是一名 HIV 专家，随后他将研究资源转移到关注新冠的长期影响上。

这些研究结果尚未发表，而作为该论文共同作者的 Peluso 非常谨慎，以免在同行评审过程完成前抢跑。但他确实承认，这项研究代表了具有意义的一步进展：“它表明，在这些空间中存在着某种生物活动，这种活动要么允许这些病毒库持续存在，要么就是病毒库存在的结果。”PolyBio 的网站甚至将这些新发现（结合其他研究人员提供的类似数据集）描述为“长新冠机制的一个主要工作模型——肠道病毒持续存在导致清除不完全和免疫失调”。

几周后，我前往拜访 Julia Moore Vogel。尽管——而且在某种反常的意义上，正是因为——她自己的健康状况在恶化，她已成为长新冠领域一位著名的患者科学家。2024 年，Vogel 与丈夫和女儿搬到了纽约州北部，以便离父母更近。去年年底，他们在沙格蒂科克（Schaghticoke）买了一栋房子，这是一个坐落在胡西克河（Hoosic River）岸边、拥有 7,000 人的安静小镇。当我开车抵达那里时，那是一栋金黄色殖民地风格的房子，配有白色百叶窗，中心山墙勾勒出覆盖着冰釉的屋顶，前院铺满了积雪。

我在厨房见到了 Vogel，她坐在轮椅上引导我参观她的新家并向我介绍她的日常生活。Vogel 仍在斯克里普斯（Scripps）工作；她的职位完全是远程办公。在继续参与“All of Us”研究的同时，她现在还担任该研究所的助理教授，专注于长新冠研究，致力于推动药物临床试验的开展。“从 2020 年起我就感觉到，我们需要进行临床试验来帮助人们缓解症状，”她说。

她领着我走出厨房，进入餐厅。

远程办公 Vogel 在纽约州北部的床上工作。她和家人于 2024 年从加利福尼亚州搬迁至此，以便离父母更近，由父母提供日常支持。

作者简介

Mike Mariani 是《那些没能杀死我们的，使我们变得更强：在悲剧与创伤之后我们成为了谁》（What Doesn't Kill Us Makes Us: Who We Become After Tragedy and Trauma）一书的作者。

Rachel Bujalski 的纪实摄影探索当代美国文化。

Kate Warren 在雪城大学教授摄影，同时也是生态非营利组织 Toolshed 的编辑总监。

Vogel 指向一张长木桌，上面放着铁件、织物和一个带有银色针板的小机器：一个刺绣工作站。“这是一个非常适合久坐的活动，”她说，“我为所有从未谋面的残障朋友制作礼物。”房间的角落里有一个电梯，是在她家人买房后安装的。Vogel 为这个决定纠结了数月，项目的费用让她感到不安。“我真的很犹豫，因为太贵了，”她告诉我，“我想，‘我真的不想把我的应急基金花在这个上面。’而我的父亲同样使用轮椅，他说，‘Julia，这就是紧急情况。’”

Vogel 乘电梯上楼，我在她的卧室见到了她，这是一个简朴的空间，她一天中的大部分时间都在这里度过。我们进入房间时，灯光昏暗——强光会诱发劳累后不适（post-exertional malaise），导致她患上剧烈的偏头痛。她的大部分工作都在床垫上完成，白天所需的一切物品——药物、补剂、茶、笔记——都在触手可及的范围内。

Vogel 执着地维持着高强度的工作生活。她运行着一项由自己设计的临床试验，将 GLP-1 受体激动剂替泽帕肽（tirzepatide）重新利用，以观察其抗炎效果是否能使长新冠患者受益。（她之前尝试过另一种 GLP-1 药物，发现对她自己无效，但她决心看看这类药物是否能帮助他人。）该试验仍在进行中，这意味着数据尚未出炉，且

Vogel 承担着极其繁重的工作量——这种平衡行为要求她对每日事务进行“冷酷的优先级排序”。

由于她是首席研究员，她处于完全双盲状态，但一些参与者在轶事报道中提到其症状有了显著改善，Vogel 希望数据能够证实他们的经历。（少数勇敢的医生已经开始在非适应症范围内开具替泽帕肽；其中一位是领先的 HIV / AIDS 医生、复杂疾病中心（Center for Complex Diseases）2017 年的共同创始人 David Kaufman，他去年展示的调查数据显示，60% 到 90% 的患者对小剂量的 GLP-1 有积极反应。）

Vogel 的试验是全球范围内正在进行或已结束的约 90 项长新冠药物试验之一。（美国国立卫生研究院 [NIH] 还在追踪数百项其他主要关注饮食和运动等行为治疗的试验。）除了对 Paxlovid 和巴瑞替尼（baricitinib）的研究——这两者尚未显示出足以证明其是长新冠有效治疗方法的有力证据——研究人员还在检查一系列其他现有药物，包括糖尿病

前行之路 一名 LIINC 参与者在旧金山医院完成检测后离开。Peluso 表示：“从一开始就看到人们的生活被这件事彻底打乱，我真的很想了解造成这种情况的原因，并且真的很想尝试帮助他们康复。”

药物二甲双胍（旨在改善代谢能量）和抗抑郁药氟伏沙明（已减轻部分患者的疲劳感）。与此同时，心脏病药物伊伐布雷定（ivabradine）未能改善新冠感染后出现心脏问题的患者的眩晕和疲劳症状。另一项预计于今年秋季开始的研究将调查将重新利用的 HIV 药物和胆固醇药物——马拉维罗克（maraviroc）和阿托伐他汀（atorvastatin）相结合，是否能改善包括脑雾、疲劳、眩晕和消化不良在内的身体及神经认知症状。至少有 1 种名为 Anktiva 的抗癌生物疗法（可能增强免疫反应）正在加州大学旧金山分校（UCSF）进行安全性试验。此外，Peluso 和其他研究人员正与一家名为 Invivyd 的小型制药公司合作，以观察其能够中和多种新冠变异株的实验性单克隆抗体是否能成为长新冠的有效治疗方法。“这是来自双方最受期待的试验之一，详见第 124 页”

戏剧化的天赋

白头鸭以其复杂的求偶仪式而闻名，是西班牙自然保护的标志。但在其他地区，它仍在为生存而战。

从像扫帚一样的尾巴到雄鸭亮天蓝色的喙，白头鸭是世界上最奇特的鸭类之一。在非繁殖季节，它们温顺安静；而到了春天，它们会在欧洲、北非、中东和中亚的湿地中上演一场壮观的求偶表演。每逢春季，雄鸭会进行一系列复杂的舞蹈，包括侧向游泳、兴奋地拍水，以及用喙拍打鼓起的颈羽以产生气泡轨迹。它们异常长且僵硬的尾羽也是表演的一部分，像旗帜一样挥舞，像扇子一样展开，像桨一样拍打水面。“目睹白头鸭求偶，就像在观看鸟类世界中最非凡的表演之一，”保加利亚鸟类保护协会及世界自然保护联盟（IUCN）下属机构国际鸟类保护联盟（BirdLife International）的水禽专家尼基·佩特科夫（Nicky Petkov）说道。

在西班牙，白头鸭也是一个壮观的保护成功故事的主角。在过去的一个世纪里，为了农业和开发而进行的数十年湿地排干工程，导致该鸭类分布区内的栖息地萎缩，数量骤减。狩猎进一步打击了全球种群，据估计，在 1930 年代其数量约为 100,000 只。到 20 世纪 70 年代末，大多数欧洲种群已经灭绝，而在西班牙，仅在单一地点还剩下 22 只鸟。这个令人震惊的数字引发了一场全国性的运动，旨在恢复和保护湿地、改善水资源管理并禁止狩猎。目前，西班牙的白头鸭种群已回升至约 2,500 只，并扩展到全国各地。

然而，在其他地方，情况并不那么乐观。在全球范围内，该物种继续下降，并被列入 IUCN 红色名录的濒危物种。在该鸭类分布区的东部，规模较大的种群几乎没有得到保护。污染、水资源流失以及人类活动的其它影响继续破坏它们的栖息地。此外，另一个威胁出现了：红头鸭。 摄影：Javier Aznar González de Rueda

这种入侵性的美洲物种样本从一个英国野生动物保护区逃逸并向东扩散。在 20 世纪 80 年代到达西班牙的白头鸭繁殖地后，这些具有攻击性的外来物种在争夺配偶方面击败了本土雄鸭。到 20 世纪 90 年代初，具有生育能力的杂交种被证明与它们的红头鸭祖先一样具有优势——这引发了人们的担忧，担心种间杂交会导致白头鸭在遗传上灭绝。在西欧，一项红头鸭剔除计划目前已将杂交威胁控制在可控范围内。然而，再次发生的风险依然存在。

尽管白头鸭在西方取得了令人鼓舞的回归，但它们的未来取决于其整个分布区内湿地的保护。今年秋天，一项新的多国倡议在东南欧、东地中海和中亚启动，以扩大这一努力。与此同时，气候变化和日益严重的干旱使全球湿地面临干涸的风险。

“将白头鸭描述为保护成功故事需要一个重要的前提，”佩特科夫警告说，“这个故事还没有结束。” —— 舍里尔·卡茨（CHERYL KATZ）

野外英雄

水禽专家尼基·佩特科夫（Nicky Petkov）表示，白头鸭是“水禽世界中真正的古怪之作，因为关于它的一切似乎都不同寻常”。

欢迎来到

作者：理查德·格兰特（RICHARD GRANT） 摄影：休斯顿·科菲尔德（HOUSTON COFIELD）

南部 0 俱乐部

南部俱乐部

热泉市

在拉斯维加斯出现之前，这里曾是

黑帮的天堂。现在，这座阿肯色州

水疗小镇的历史正在重新焕发生机

在成立于 1905 年的热泉市俄亥俄俱乐部（Ohio Club）中，一个复古的轮盘赌盘被用作临时餐桌。

等身雕像：

臭名昭著的芝加哥黑帮 阿尔·卡彭

阿尔·卡彭手里拿着一支雪茄，坐在市中心的一家酒吧外，这让许多初次访问阿肯色州霍特斯普林斯（Hot Springs）的游客感到惊讶。甚至连阿肯色州本地人都很大程度上忘记了，这座迷人的水疗小镇曾是美国最初的“罪恶之城”，当时这里赌场和妓院林立，大名鼎鼎的黑帮成员经常出没。黑帮分子巴格西·西格尔（Bugsy Siegel）在开发拉斯维加斯大道（Las Vegas Strip）时，甚至可能将霍特斯普林斯作为灵感来源。

关于这座小镇色彩斑斓、颓废且罪恶的历史（它曾被称为“圣经地带中松开的皮带扣”），最权威的专家是一位名叫罗伯特·K·雷恩斯（Robert K. Raines）的男人，他富有魅力，白发苍苍，穿着考究。他曾是一名摇滚歌手和计算机销售员，写过一本书，并制作了几部关于霍特斯普林斯恶习与有组织犯罪的短纪录片。他还是位于历史区中心的美国黑帮博物馆（Gangster Museum of America）的创始人兼馆长。我在中央大道上宏伟古老的阿灵顿度假酒店及水疗中心（Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa）的大堂酒吧与他见面，当年卡彭会租下整个四楼给他的随从，一次停留数周。

雷恩斯说，1931年，拉斯维加斯的人口约为5,000人，没有度假村。“1931年，霍特斯普林斯的人口约为20,000人，拥有几家高层酒店。这里有公开的赌博（这在阿肯色州是非法的）、公开的卖淫，以及任何人所需的所有私酿酒……黑帮分子喜欢来这里，因为他们可以放松，享受时光，而不用担心被逮捕，因为所有的警察都被收买了。”

我们与一位半退休的律师Q·拜伦·赫斯特二世（Q. Byrum Hurst Jr.）会合。他的父亲Q·拜伦·赫斯特一世（Q. Byrum Hurst Sr.）曾是霍特斯普林斯的一名律师，代表过像卡车司机工会（Teamsters）主席吉米·霍法（Jimmy Hoffa）这样的地下人物。他曾担任阿肯色州参议员22年并竞选州长，致力于在故乡保留赌博业。“我的父亲来自一个虔诚的教会家庭，他自己从不赌博，但他意识到赌博是这里经济的重要组成部分，如果停止，小镇将会遭受损失，”赫斯特说。

“市长、法官，市议会，州长，立法机构，甚至霍特斯普林斯的教会都在从中分一杯羹，”雷恩斯说。

经常出没于霍特斯普林斯的一些最著名的黑帮分子包括纽约头目查尔斯·“幸运”·卢恰诺（Charles “Lucky” Luciano）、他的合伙人迈耶·兰斯基（Meyer Lansky）、本杰明·“巴格西”·西格尔（Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel）以及芝加哥黑帮臭名昭著的首领阿尔方斯·加布里埃尔·“阿尔”·卡彭（Alphonse Gabriel “Al” Capone）。后者经常住在阿灵顿酒店的同一个房间——443号房，现在是“阿尔·卡彭套房”——并且经常在我们现在坐的这家大堂酒吧喝酒。雷恩斯有一张卡彭与他的两个兄弟的合影，他们戴着宽边墨西哥草帽，在距离阿灵顿酒店步行距离的快乐山游乐园（Happy Hollow Amusement Park）骑着驴。

卡彭在镇上随处可见。他去赛马场，打高尔夫球，并在欧阿奇塔河（Ouachita River）边拥有一栋钓鱼小屋。有时他会把他的绿色装甲1928年款凯迪拉克通过火车运到霍特斯普林斯，以便能以时尚的方式四处行驶。2008年，雷恩斯非常激动地从休斯顿的一个收藏馆借到了那辆车，并在阿灵顿酒店的大堂展出两年，随后该车在拍卖会上被售出。

“我的天……如果他知道我在跟你说话，他现在就会直接开车过来把我杀了。”

咖啡店 24小时营业 周日除外

正如赫斯特（Hurst）所指出的，来到热泉市（Hot Springs）的帮派分子是携带武器、暴力且危险的人，其中一些人隶属于在大城市中相互征战的犯罪组织。他说：“但在热泉市没有人被枪击，这就是约定。只要不惹麻烦，有组织犯罪的人物随时欢迎光临。”纽约犯罪集团中卢西亚诺（Luciano）的顾问弗兰克·科斯特洛（Frank Costello）曾连续 25 年经常造访此处。

除了地下世界的名流，热泉市还吸引了演艺人员、运动员、电影明星、政治家和工业巨头——他们全部入住阿灵顿酒店（Arlington），与那些帮派分子相邻。那是镇上最大、最豪华的酒店，拥有近 500 间客房，舞厅每晚都有一个 15 人的管弦乐队，还设有纽约证券交易所的卫星分部。

电影明星包括鲁道夫·瓦伦蒂诺（Rudolph Valentino）、伊丽莎白·泰勒（Elizabeth Taylor）和玛丽莲·梦露（Marilyn Monroe）。杜克·埃灵顿（Duke Ellington）、弗兰克·辛纳屈（Frank Sinatra）和托尼·班尼特（Tony Bennett）曾在俱乐部演出。纽约高地人队（New York Highlanders，后来的洋基队）和红袜队棒球队来到热泉市进行春季

通往过去的门户 左图为 Vapors 夜总会的内部大门，该夜总会于 20 世纪 60 年代在热泉市成立。下图为帮派博物馆（Gangster Museum）收藏的赌博物品中的旧赛璐珞宾果球。

训练，而贝比·鲁斯（Babe Ruth）热爱这座城镇，因为它满足了他的三大爱好：赌博、妓女和威士忌。商业大亨安德鲁·卡内基（Andrew Carnegie）和 F.W. 伍尔沃斯（F.W. Woolworth）曾访问热泉市，富兰克林·罗斯福（Franklin Roosevelt）和哈里·杜鲁门（Harry Truman）两位总统也曾到访。雷恩斯（Raines）说：“毫无疑问，J. 埃德加·胡佛（J. Edgar Hoover）会对任何一位总统汇报关于黑帮分子和非法活动的细节，但我认为总统们只是决定在逗留期间休息放松。”如今，历史悠久的市中心及其面积约 8,500 平方英尺的帮派博物馆，为人们提供了一个通往那个颓废且令人沉醉的 era. 的惊人门户。

当雷恩斯在 2007, 年首次抵达热泉市，帮助一位朋友在市中心创业时，他对这里的历史一无所知。他听到了一些低语和传闻，从而产生了好奇。随后他开始询问关于帮派分子、非法赌博和腐败的问题，但人们拒绝谈论。他说：“这是他们习惯于保守的秘密。于是我开始查阅旧报纸档案，我在那里发现的内容令我震惊。”

1807, 年，首批永久性的白人定居者抵达了后来成为热泉市的地方，并开始为那些想要沐浴在地面涌出的富含矿物质的热泉水中的游客建设城镇。南北战争后，热泉市从一个偏僻之地转变为一座时髦的度假城镇，拥有豪华酒店、剧院、高级餐厅和歌剧院，同时还设有赌场、妓院和饮酒俱乐部。一位名叫格蕾丝·戈尔德斯坦（Grace Goldstein）的鸨母经营着紧邻阿灵顿酒店的哈特里酒店（Hatterie Hotel）；这里深受职业赌徒和法外之徒的青睐。与此同时，约瑟芬·贝尔蒙特（Josephine Belmont）夫人的房子服务于春季训练期间的棒球运动员，而伊芙琳·安德森（Evelyn Anderson）经营着皮格利房（Pigley Rooms），妈妈凯莉（Mama Carrie）则凭借来到热泉市的爵士音乐家和富有的非裔美国商人建立了她的事业。

城中人物

下图是一根曾属于阿尔·卡彭（Al Capone）的指挥棒，现展出于俄亥俄俱乐部（Ohio Club）。右图是卡彭的雕塑，装饰在镇上黑帮博物馆（Gangster Museum）的内部。底图是这位黑帮头目经常出入的阿灵顿度假酒店及水疗中心（Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa）四楼的豪华转角房；这里至今仍被称为“阿尔·卡彭套房”。

禁酒令于1920年生效，其作用犹如一项经济刺激计划。镇北是一片被称为“负鼠王国”（Possum Kingdom）的农村山区，那里的私酒酿造者长期以来一直蒸馏一种纯净且独特的玉米酒，被称为“清酒”（clear），因为这种酒无色且使用山泉水酿造。如今，热泉镇及更远地区对其产品的需求呈爆炸式增长。

雷恩斯（Raines）表示，卡彭为了他的走私帝国始终需要库存，很可能与“负鼠王国”的私酒酿造者开展了业务往来。一些资料称，卡彭可能在贝尔维德尔乳品厂（Belvedere Dairy）拥有自己的蒸馏作坊。当地导游帕特里克·莱顿（Patrick Layton）说，像许多当地人一样，他的祖父曾为卡彭酿造私酒，而且当地警察会看守货物并帮助将其装上火车车厢。

当市长利奥·麦克劳林（Leo McLaughlin）于1927年就职时，这座城镇的腐败程度达到了惊人的地步。大家都以为他是律师，因为他有一个律师事务所且执业数十年；而事实上，他只上过两周大学，且没有任何记录显示他在阿肯色州或任何其他地方通过了律师资格考试。在一名贪腐法官的协助下，被人们称为“利奥市长”的他，在接下来的20年里像一个贪婪且能言善辩的独裁者一样统治着热泉镇。他乘坐一辆由两匹名为“苏格兰”和“苏打”的红棕色马牵引的马车在镇上巡视。

麦克劳林保护黑帮分子，并建立了一个极其强大的政治机器，以至于从未有过第二个候选人敢挑战他。这个机器的资金来源是100多家非法企业缴纳的“娱乐税”，并通过惯常手段强制执行其意志：行贿、施恩与撤恩、操纵法律系统以及恐吓。雷恩斯说：“如果你敢对抗这个机器，你的店很有可能会起火。除此之外，这个镇非常安全，犯罪率极低。它完全腐败，但人们并不认为这是腐败。每个人都在赚钱，那么问题出在哪里呢？”

据雷恩斯称，当时一个公开的秘密是，1955年至1967年期间的阿肯色州州长奥尔瓦尔·福布斯（Orval Faubus）会派一辆车前往热泉镇，后备箱里放着一个投递保险箱，用于收取他的月度款项。司机会在餐厅吃午饭，并让后备箱保持开启状态。来自赌场、赌博俱乐部和妓院的代表会将钱袋投入保险箱中。午饭后，司机关闭后备箱，开车返回位于小石城的州长办公室。如果被质询，他可以诚实地说：“我从未见过贿赂款。”尽管福布斯否认曾收到过任何款项，但福布斯的传记作者罗伊·里德（Roy Reed）表示：“每周六晚上，一名州高级官员都会[在热泉镇]取走这些钱，装在黑袋子里送到小石城。”雷恩斯说，当福布斯被要求处理热泉镇猖獗的非法活动时，他会说这是当地问题，应由当地警察调查。阿肯色州精明的人都知道，这种情况永远不会发生。

在收集这段历史的过程中，雷恩斯逐渐与热泉镇的一些老人建立了信任。他开设了第一家小型博物馆，他们开始向他提供零碎的信息，随后进行了录像采访。雷恩斯会剪辑他的短片，将他们揭露的内容包含在内，并确保他们认可最终成品。

有一次，在一家养老院里，他正在采访一名坐在轮椅上的老人。这名老人曾在南方俱乐部（Southern Club）担任荷官，那里是卡彭经常去玩扑克的高端赌博场所。采访过程中，老人突然变得惊恐不安。他对雷恩斯说：“噢，我的天，C号大厅里有个家伙。如果他知道我在跟你说话，他现在就会滚到这里来杀了我。”尽管两人都已年近九旬，尽管政治机器早已瓦解，大名鼎鼎的黑帮分子也已作古，但那套旧准则——闭嘴，否则用生命偿还——依然对他们有着强大的掌控力。

雷恩斯是一位由执着的好奇心驱动、不知疲倦的研究者，他梳理了数千份关于热泉市的联邦调查局（FBI）文件。他采访了卡彭的曾侄女迪尔德丽·卡彭（Deirdre Capone）并与其建立了友谊，后者向博物馆捐赠了各种家庭照片。雷恩斯与兰斯基的孙子关系同样良好，后者分享了关于其祖父在热泉市生活期间的所知信息。2013年，雷恩斯出版了一本名为《热泉市：从卡彭到科斯特洛》（Hot Springs: From Capone to Costello）的通俗历史书籍。书中的几张照片目前在博物馆展出。

罗伯特·K·雷恩斯（Robert K. Raines）是美国黑帮博物馆的创始人兼馆长，也是热泉市关于黑帮与赌博这段多彩历史的专家之一。

他目前正在进行的项目是一部关于最令他着迷的地下世界人物的传记。欧文·“奥尼”·马登（Owen “Oney” Madden）是唯一一个将热泉市作为永久居所的黑帮分子。“这里的人很爱他，”雷恩斯说，“在他们眼中，他是一个礼貌、温文尔雅的英国人，慷慨地捐助慈善事业。他们很难相信他曾是一个臭名昭著的黑帮分子。”

马登于1891年出生在英国利兹，父母是爱尔兰人。大约11岁时，他搬到了纽约的“地狱厨房”（Hell's Kitchen），并最终加入了一个街头帮派。21岁时，他是地鼠帮（Gopher Gang）的头目，绰号“杀手”。马登因指使刺杀另一个帮派的成员而被关进辛辛监狱（Sing Sing prison），在表现良好九年后获得假释。

“然后他涉足了私酒贸易、敲诈勒索、纯血马赛马场、管理职业拳击手、洗衣店和夜总会，”雷恩斯说，“乔治·拉夫特（George Raft）曾为他开啤酒运输车，当[拉夫特]成为演员后，他塑造的黑帮角色就是以欧尼·马登为原型的。梅·韦斯特（Mae West）曾是马登的女友之一，她说他‘很甜蜜，但噢，极其凶残’。”

阿灵顿度假酒店及水疗中心（Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa）拥有山景，曾受到许多美国最臭名昭著的黑帮分子的光顾。

麦克拉德烧烤餐厅（McClard's Bar-B-Q Restaurant）于1928年开业，位于市中心外围。该餐厅目前仍由创始人的后代经营。

作者简介

理查德·格兰特（Richard Grant）是史密森尼学会（Smithsonian）的常驻撰稿人。他最近的一本书是《疯狂之底的竞赛》（A Race to the Bottom of Crazy）。

摄影师休斯顿·科菲尔德（Houston Cofield）的人像作品曾发表在《纽约时报杂志》及其他多家媒体上。

“每个人都害怕他，因为他有精神病倾向，而且是个杀手。”

马登拥有哈莱姆区著名的棉花俱乐部（Cotton Club），并强行获取了其他多家夜总会的部分所有权。1935年，为了寻求更安静的生活方式，他搬到了曾到访过几次的热泉市。他抛弃了以往喧闹的生活方式，娶了邮政局长的女儿，过上了舒适的生活。“他在乡村俱乐部打高尔夫球，几乎每天都去巴克斯塔夫浴场（Buckstaff Bathhouse）和莫里斯浴场（Maurice），在南方俱乐部与其他黑帮分子共度时光，并确保每个人都循规蹈矩，”雷恩斯说，“他与市长关系密切，并帮助市长组织了一个规模更大且更隐秘的贿赂体系。”

马登在生命最后的30年里住在霍特斯普林斯，他最亲密的朋友之一是他的律师——正是州参议员 Q. 拜伦·赫斯特（Q. Byrum Hurst Sr.）。“他们真心喜欢对方，”小赫斯特说，“我父亲在奥尼的葬礼上发表了悼词。”

那是1965年的事，两年后，漫长且利润丰厚的非法赌博时代宣告结束。新任州长——温斯罗普·洛克菲勒（Winthrop Rockefeller），慈善家小约翰·D·洛克菲勒（John D. Rockefeller Jr.）之子，纽约州州长纳尔逊·洛克菲勒（Nelson Rockefeller）之兄——就职了。

永久居民 左下角， 欧文·“奥尼” 马登（Owen “Onewy” Madden）， 又名 “杀手”， 是一位臭名昭著的 英美 黑帮分子， 他从纽约搬到了 霍特斯普林斯， 并住在 下方的房子里。

尽管据报道他曾向赫斯特（父）和许多其他立法者承诺会签署一项使赌博合法化的法案，但他随后违背了诺言，否决了该法案。不久之后，州警察突袭了霍特斯普林斯所有的赌博俱乐部和赌场。他们甚至砸毁、焚烧并掩埋了轮盘赌盘和其他游戏设备，但没有进行任何逮捕，也没有从赌场计数室中没收任何资金，而那些计数室里存放着数百万美元。“这就是交易内容，”雷恩斯说，“我们要结束这件事，但钱由你们自己留着。”

正如赫斯特（父）所预料的那样，一旦非法赌博消失，霍特斯普林斯便陷入了剧烈的衰落，几乎破产。在整个市中心，越来越多的店面被木板封死。除了其中一家外，所有的浴场都倒闭了。

“这里的人们很爱他……他们很难相信他曾经是个臭名昭著的歹徒。”

这座城市甚至无法在同一时间点亮所有的路灯，社区开始怀念过去的好时光。最终，在 21 世纪初，一群年轻的改革者聚集在一起，共同努力拯救这座城镇。他们首先通过提高当地销售税，从而使建筑和重建项目成为可能。进步带来了更多的进步，如今，温泉城（Hot Springs）作为旅游目的地和退休养老地再次繁荣起来。据估计，目前那里居住着 38,000 人，他们享受着低廉的生活成本、悠闲的水疗小镇文化，以及建筑风格多样化的市中心——在那里，一排历史悠久的水疗馆被包含在温泉城国家公园内。在其中一些水疗馆，你仍然可以让自己沉浸在充满氛围的热泉水中。

在卡彭时代就极具吸引力的奥克兰赛马场（Oaklawn racetrack），现在拥有了一家高端度假村和一家合法赌场。在中央大道上，你可以欣赏古老的建筑，购买衣服和纪念品，并在保存完好的俄亥俄俱乐部（Ohio Club）品尝鸡尾酒；卡彭、西格尔、卢恰诺和鲁斯经常光顾这里，阿尔·乔尔森和梅·韦斯特也曾在此演出。你可以在俱乐部外的公园长椅上与卡彭的雕像合影，然后沿着街道漫步前往美国歹徒博物馆（Gangster Museum of America）。该博物馆设有八个展厅，提供导览服务和视听展示，讲述了美国最臭名昭著的罪犯们如何能够和平地聚集在阿肯色州中部瓦希塔山脉（Ouachita Mountains）的一个小型水疗小镇中。

雷恩斯站在礼品店的一排软呢帽展架旁，提出了一个俏皮的问题：“在一个赌博和卖淫都违法的州，一个靠这两项活动赚数百万美元的城镇经济应该叫什么？你可能会称之为非法，或者公然腐败。而我们称之为旅游业。”

房间

非洲野狗正处于濒危状态且被误解。一项大胆的新计划正为它们的生存提供空间。

漫游

一对非洲野狗，位于南非最大的私人自然保护区——靠近博茨瓦纳边境的茨瓦卢卡拉哈里保护区（Tswalu Kalahari Reserve）。

作者：HELEN SULLIVAN ——摄影：MARCUS WESTBERG

两辆白色皮卡车停在一条穿过沃特堡（Waterberg）的高速公路旁，沃特堡是南非的一个市镇，距离约翰内斯堡三小时车程。步行经过这些卡车时，你可能会听到某种让你停下脚步的声音：它们的货物在喘气。透过三个绿色木箱顶部的孔洞，可以看到覆盖在肋骨上的皮毛，呈现出黑、白、金相间的斑驳色泽，随着呼吸起伏。

这三只处于睡眠状态的雌性非洲野狗是姐妹，在过去的几周里，它们旅途遥远，即便按照该物种每天可覆盖 30 英里、活动范围达 1,000 英里的标准来看也是如此。它们由飞机从莫桑比克的卡林加尼野生动物保护区（Karingani Game Reserve）运抵，这得益于濒危野生动物信托基金会（Endangered Wildlife Trust）的非洲野狗分布区扩张计划。该项目始于 1997, 年，在 29 年间使全球野狗数量增加了 344 只以上。该项目将野狗引入到那些数十年未见该物种的国家——例如莫桑比克，该物种在 1977 年至 1992. 年期间的内战中消失。莫桑比克的野狗种群繁殖非常成功，以至于濒危野生动物信托基金会（EWT）现在将年轻的野狗带到南非，以便在这里组建新的、具有遗传多样性的种群。这三姐妹已被注射了镇静剂，这是将它们转移到未来几周新家——一个最先进的围栏（或称 boma，这是首个专门为该物种设计的围栏）——之前冒险但必要的一步，随后它们将佩戴追踪项圈被释放到野外。

这三姐妹代表了全球仅存 6,600 只非洲野狗中不可忽视的一部分。根据世界自然基金会（World Wildlife Fund）的数据，这些动物属于世界上最濒危的物种之一。它们也被称为开普猎犬或彩绘犬，看起来像大型且四肢细长的杂交犬，其肢体特征仿佛是从野生动物杂物箱中随机挑选的：巨大的圆盘状黑耳朵，细腿上的大爪子，以及蓬松的白色尾巴。每只狗的皮毛都有独特的黑、金、白斑点图案——与其说是

救命的一针

下方，在濒危野生动物信托基金会工作的兽医 Jana Pauwels 正在调整位置，准备给围栏内的一只非洲野狗注射麻醉药。右侧，EWT 工作人员 Joseph Hlako 和 Eugene Greyling 将一只处于麻醉状态的野狗搬到卡车上，以便将其迁移、佩戴项圈，然后释放到野外。

野狗允许幼崽优先进食，这在动物界中是一种近乎独特行为。

那些覆盖在蛇、斑马或豹身上的图案。

野狗是非洲最成功的猎手，捕杀成功率高达 80%。相比之下，狮子对其猎物的捕杀成功率仅为 30%。野狗的这种“超能力”也是它们深受威胁的部分原因。许多私人野生动物保护区的所有者宁愿杀死它们，也不愿损失昂贵的猎物。维持生计的农民对其牲畜也有同样的感觉。一项发表在《生态与进化》（Ecology and Evolution）上的 2021 年研究显示，在肯尼亚、博茨瓦纳和津巴布韦的研究地点，在 15 年期间，人为原因（包括直接杀戮和来自家犬的疾病）占所有野狗死亡人数的 44%。由于野狗被接纳的区域之间缺乏连续性，这意味着如果没有干预，它们将难以找到配偶。

但这种非洲最被厌恶的食肉动物也有许多令人喜爱之处。如果你问一个野狗爱好者最喜欢它们什么，他们可能会说是野狗的顽皮。在博茨瓦纳研究野狗的布里安娜·亚伯拉姆斯（Briana Abrahms）曾看到幼崽“像踢足球一样踢着象粪球”。澳大利亚新南威尔士大学的生物学家尼尔·乔丹（Neil Jordan）发现，野狗是地球上少数几种似乎会“投票”的物种之一。在出发狩猎之前，这些动物会举行“集会”：在黄昏时分，一两只狗会在酷暑中休息后站起来，向后拉起耳朵，假装在潜行追踪猎物。它们会发出奇怪的、被掐住脖子般的吠叫声和唧唧喳喳的声音，卷起舌头，互相嬉戏并排尿。

“然后它们在社交上产生一种滚雪球效应，于是更多的个体加入进来，越来越多。就像一个巨大的旋转木马，它们全部疯狂地跑来跑去，”乔丹说。通常它们会这样做一次，然后重新躺下，接着再次重复，然后再次躺下。只有当它们发出“快速的鼻腔呼气”或打喷嚏时，才会真正出发。（“我们仍然不能确定它们是否在利用这一点，或者这恰好发生在它们以另一种方式发出移动信号的同时，”乔丹强调。）

睡美人

赫拉科（Hlako）在捕获后不久检查其中一只被麻醉的狗。最新的 EWT 运输箱配备了温度计和太阳能摄像头，用于远程监控。

乔丹表示，野狗还允许幼崽优先进食，这在动物界中是一种近乎独特行为。当族群中的成员受伤、生病或怀孕严重无法参加狩猎时，另一只狗会为其反刍食物。野狗会互相照顾。

当那些“姐妹们”在卡车里打盹时，我与负责运输野狗的 EWT 外勤人员之一尤金·格雷林（Eugene Greyling）在附近的一间小屋里坐了下来。我们坐在 Welgevonden 野生动物保护区的入口处，那里设有将临时安置这些野狗的围栏。南非有四个主要的野狗种群。第一个是圈养在私人动物园中的种群。然后是克鲁格国家公园（Kruger National Park）的种群，这是该国唯一拥有足够数量野狗以维持

姐妹们站在一片草地上，随后躺在一棵荆棘树下；这是漫长的一天。

运输途中 卡车将处于麻醉状态的野狗运往 Welgevonden 游戏保护区。这些野狗出生于莫桑比克，目前正被迁移到被称为 Waterberg 的地区，那里是该物种在世界上最后的避风港之一。

新起点 Hlako 和 Greyling 在 Welgevonden 放走了一只野狗。该保护区拥有约 65 种哺乳动物，包括萨法里“五大兽”：狮子、豹子、非洲象、犀牛和非洲水牛。

它们自身的遗传基因。第三类是自由活动种群，在 Waterberg 地区由私人和公共土地组成的碎片化区域中漫游。最后是一种“元种群”，其成员在穿过 Welgevonden 或 Tswalu Kalahari 保护区（南非最大的私人所有自然保护区）等自然保护区时会被追踪。EWT 与这些保护区合作，以创建具有遗传多样性的新犬群并扩大它们的活动范围。

Greyling 表示，由 5 到 20 只个体组成的野狗群具有复杂的社会结构。处于顶端的是 alpha 雌狗。她和 alpha 雄狗是犬群中唯一繁殖的个体。为了增加种群数量，野狗必须组建新犬群。一组姐妹会向一个方向出发，寻找另一个犬群的雄狗，而一组兄弟则向另一个方向做同样的事情。EWT 仔细监测着这种扩散情况以及犬群的遗传基因。活动范围之间缺乏连续性，意味着这些动物很可能会在没有配偶的情况下被困住。环保主义者不能坐视不管。

例如，卡车里的三姐妹在莫桑比克时发现的雄狗亲缘关系太近。“我们必须认真思考如何处理这个问题，因为从技术上讲，这些狗所做的一切都是正确的，”负责协调范围扩张项目的 Cole du Plessis 说道，“如果你在 20 年前告诉人们，我们将把处于麻醉状态的野狗飞往其他国家——这简直太疯狂了。”

在 Welgevonden，Greyling 和我在小屋里见到了 Reilly Mooney，她是一位生物学家，也是 Waterberg 野狗倡议项目的负责人。Mooney 的旅程比野狗还要遥远：她从威斯康星州来到南非，最初是为了研究灵长类动物。在 Covid-19 疫情期间，她的常规研究被迫停止，她参加了一个关于自由活动野狗的社区会议，这些狗大多被听之任之。“当时的情况非常不稳定，”Mooney 说。当地人希望有人能弥合社区与环保主义者之间的鸿沟，而 Mooney 正是这份工作的合适人选。她的待办事项清单上的第一件事就是查明有多少只狗。它们的皮毛使它们相对容易被识别，并且

新居

一只在 Welgevonden 新 boma（围栏）中的野狗。它的大耳朵有助于它在犬群中交流、探测接近的猎物，并在气温可超过 100 华氏度的地区散热。

作者简介

澳大利亚记者海伦·沙利文（Helen Sullivan）此前曾为《史密森尼》杂志撰写过关于婆罗洲猩猩的文章。

马库斯·韦斯特伯格（Marcus Westberg）是国际保护摄影师联盟（International League of Conservation Photographers）的董事会主席。

需要追踪的情况。“我们可以相当自信地说，在整个沃特堡（Waterberg）地区，只有 27 只野狗，”她说。

在小屋里，格雷林（Greyling）接到了约瑟夫·赫拉科（Joseph Hlako）的电话，后者是他在濒危野生动物信托基金会（EWT）的同事，一直负责监视那些正在睡眠的野狗。赫拉科是 EWT 的冲突缓解官员，他在该地区长大，家人从事农耕。他能说北索托语（Northern Sotho）等多种南非语言，对于在处理野狗与人类关系时什么行得通、什么行不通拥有内部人士的见解。他说，建立信任和维持关系是最关键的因素。“而且，你知道，一张熟悉的面孔比任何陌生面孔都更有效。”

格雷林离开小屋后，开车经过我们身边：他说，其中一只狗似乎出现了过热现象。他想立即将它带到围栏中降温。穆尼（Mooney）和我跳进她的车里跟在格雷林后面。我们穿过公路，经过牛群和茂密的灌木丛，直到来到 boma（围栏）：那里有几个集装箱和一道围栏。

虽然看起来没什么，但杜普莱西（du Plessis）设计

饮水之穴 在 Tswalu 补水时间。这是一个豪华度假村，每位客人的每晚房价起价为 $2,800。Tswalu 深度参与野狗保护，并将其作为一项特别景点进行推广。

他进行了“呼叫（hoo-calls）”，模仿野狗寻找彼此时发出的声音。雌狗们出现了。

幼犬嬉戏 非洲野狗以其延续至成年期的幼年般嬉戏而闻名。这种摔跤通常是游戏性质的——与狼不同，这些狗很少对同族成员表现出攻击性。

boma 里的每一件东西都是专门且简单地为野狗设计的。围栏底部有一道延伸至地下四英尺的混凝土墙——野狗是极其执着的挖掘者。围栏被分成两部分，以便将雄性和雌性分开，让它们通过围栏随着时间的推移建立纽带。每个区域都设有一个喂食柱。穆尼解释说，野狗在进食时倾向于面向你，这使得在运输时很难用麻醉枪射中它们。但如果食物被系在柱子上，且柱子后面有一道小木墙，野狗就被迫背对着你进食。方便的是，它们在进食时会抬起后躯，这使得射击更安全且更容易。

当我们帮助格雷林和赫拉科将一个板条箱从皮卡车上抬下来时，一只布满灰尘的爪子从角落里耷拉了出来，我想起我叔叔说过的一句话：“你可以在狗的爪子里闻到整个世界。”穆尼和我后退，在集装箱内部观察赫拉科移动车辆，以便让那只过热的狗处于阴凉处。尽管已是傍晚，温度仍在 90 度左右。

赫拉科和格雷林依次释放野狗，打开板条箱，等待狗先是行走，然后小跑着走出来。第一只狗脚步不太稳，第二只看起来几乎正常，直到穆尼指出，如果她还没有那么昏昏沉沉，本可以更快地从板条箱和人群中跑开。这对姐妹俩站在一片草地上，鼻子朝天，扇动着像卫星天线一样的耳朵，然后躺在一棵刺槐树下；这是漫长的一天。

太阳即将下山，我需要在公园大门关闭前离开。我准备告别，走向那只躺在水边、出现过热现象的狗。她还没有站起来。她在呼吸，嘴巴张着，格雷林试图向大家保证她会没事的。但他的语气听起来并不太确定。

随后，他告诉我那只狗死了。这是在他值班期间第一次发生这种情况，这让他感到震惊。杜普莱西（du Plessis）说，死因被确定为“捕获性肌病”或“碎心综合征”。这是由高度压力引起的。在这种情况下，已知因素包括被捕获时的压力（包括人们尝试用麻醉枪射击她数小时），以及当天的高温。可能还存在潜在的生理因素，或者在转移前的几个夜晚，附近有像鬣狗这样的捕食者。但杜普莱西关注的是野生动物信托基金（EWT）可以控制的部分。“我永远不会认为失去一只狗是可以接受的，”他说。但如果幸存的姐妹中有一只以后生了小狗，并且在她的一生中使种群数量增加了20到30只，“那么这件事看起来就会好一些。”

一年后，杜普莱西向我更新了那两只幸存姐妹的情况。在韦尔格冯登（Welgevonden）附近的围栏中将它们饲养了两个月后，杜普莱西将它们送到了一个名为里特斯普鲁特（Rietspruit）的小型私人野生动物保护区，该保护区与克鲁格国家公园相连。他知道在九小时车程外的夸祖鲁-纳塔尔省（KwaZulu-Natal Province）住着一只符合条件的单身雄犬。杜普莱西用麻醉枪射击了这只雄犬，并将其开车运送到里特斯普鲁特。“这些狗之间的纽带建立得非常好，我们拥有了这个由三只狗组成的新族群，”他说。“它们狩猎成功。一切都非常好。然后就在去年10月，那只雄犬在保护区内被一只狮子杀死了。”

又过了几个月，杜普莱西听说有另外两只雄犬离开了原族群，正在寻找配偶。他用麻醉枪射击了它们，将它们放入围栏，等待姐妹们的出现。几天后，现在处于自由活动状态且佩戴着项圈的雌犬出现在保护区的一家旅馆附近。杜普莱西开车前往它们所在地，将两团浸透了雄犬气味的围栏干草球系在车后。他发出“呼叫声”（hoo-calls），模仿狗寻找彼此时发出的声音。雌犬们出现了。然后他开始开车。“我们一度以每小时60公里（约37英里）的速度行驶，而这些雌犬紧随其后，试图靠近那团草球，”他说。“这是我在野生犬职业生涯中所做过最酷的事情之一。”

如果狗的活动范围不能持续扩大，且社区教育工作不能继续，那么重新安置就无法奏效。但在过去的三十年里，为这些狗预留的土地增加了150万公顷，且族群数量比以前增加了30个。“这些族群内部的遗传多样性非常好，”杜普莱西说。“如果我们能保持这种强劲的运作，且其他组织也在开展恢复工作和社区保护工作，这将创造出一个空间，让我们在时机成熟时准备好采取行动。”

在距离围栏不远的地方，杜普莱西扔下干草并加速离去，相信雌犬们能找到雄犬。它们确实找到了。它们毫不浪费时间地像野生犬那样隔着围栏调情：互相低头钻过，低头示意。杜普莱西决定将雄犬从围栏中释放。但雄犬没有出来，反而雌犬冲了进去，而且四只狗都拒绝出来。于是他让它们在围栏中相处三周以互相熟悉。在杜普莱西和我交谈的那一周，雌犬开始发情，雄犬表现出配偶守护行为。运气好的话，几个月后就会有小狗。

几个月后我们再次交谈时，杜普莱西告诉我其中一只姐妹确实怀孕了。这个四只狗组成的族群挖掘了一个巢穴，这种情况通常只发生在雌犬产前的一天左右。但在接下来的几周里，一只豹子袭击并杀死了这只雌犬。小狗太小，没有她的乳汁无法生存，也死掉了。而剩下的三只则继续

专为犬类设计 Welgevonden 野狗围栏的俯视图。该区域设有独立的饮水池和戏水池、一个地下洞穴以及一座附近的微型诊所。

奔跑者的体格 作为开阔萨瓦纳草原的生物，非洲野狗必须跨越巨大的距离。在数千年的时间里，它们进化出了比其他野生犬类更长的腿和更大的肺。

再次奔跑，一直跑出了公园。那两兄弟被套索线困住而死，最后幸存的姐妹最终加入了另一个犬群。

我问 du Plessis 是如何做到不那么气馁的。“对我来说，关键在于种群趋势，”他说，“即使只有一半能存活，重点是趋势在增长。”2025年，该项目在南非、莫桑比克和马拉维照顾的野狗共产下了 150 只幼崽。du Plessis 表示，在仅剩 700 对繁殖对和 6,600 只野狗的情况下，150 只“相当可观”。“会有起伏，但对于一个濒危物种来说，如果每年年底的数量能保持稳定或增加，那就已经做得相当不错了。”

最快的男人

绅士驾驶员 皇家汽车俱乐部派遣了 25 名平民驾驶员担任信使、侦察员等职务。图中为该俱乐部如今位于伦敦总部的壁画。

复古座驾 1914 年 11 月第一次伊普尔战役后，托比·罗林森（Toby Rawlinson）坐在他的哈德逊（Hudson）敞篷跑车中。

作者：JOSHUA HAMMER

摄影： JOONEY WOODWARD

西线战场

1914年8月25日，天色渐暗。托比·罗林森（Toby Rawlinson）小心翼翼地驾驶着他的银色哈德逊（Hudson）敞篷跑车进入法国的兰德雷西（Landrecies）镇，这里距离比利时边境以南约15英里。罗林森是一名隶属于英国远征军的志愿驾驶员兼侦察员，他身着便装，

沿着一条鹅卵石街道行驶，时刻警惕着敌方的巡逻队。突然，一群英国骑兵从他身后疾驰而过，迫使他驶离道路，冲上了铁路路堤。汽车撞到了路缘石，化油器在沥青路面上被撞碎，铜质感应管被撕裂。他后来在文中写道，这辆哈德逊车“彻底瘫痪了”。

就在他在镇上寻找修理车辆的方法时，一队戴着尖顶盔的德国士兵从相邻的森林中冲出。英国步兵匆忙就位。罗林森被困在开阔地带，正在寻找一根牵引绳。附近爆发了枪战，德国野战炮的弹片击碎了屋顶。一名指挥官大喊：“上刺刀！”

在周围战火点燃之时，罗林森发现自己陷入了绝境。然而，在他后来撰写的回忆录《西线冒险记》（Adventures on the Western Front）中，这段经历被描述得像是一次小小的不便。他承认枪声制造了“极其糟糕的噪音”，飞溅的砖块和瓦片“非常令人不快”。但接下来的场景却让他终生难忘。“我们的机枪一直忍到最后一刻才开火，”他写道，“但当

在第一次世界大战初期那段疯狂的月份里，英国志愿驾驶员帮助盟军保持在敌人之前——并预告了一个机械化战争新时代的到来

他们终于开火时，造成了一场真正可怕的屠杀。”德国纵队“就这样消失了，他们此前推进的街道上完全被伤员和死者堵塞。”

47岁的罗林森是一个不可思议单位的非正式领导者：皇家汽车俱乐部志愿部队（Royal Automobile Club Volunteer Force）。这支部队由25名汽车爱好者组成，他们在大战爆发时来到法国的杀戮战场，并自带车辆。他们中有前奥运运动员、大猎物猎人、波尔战争老兵、受保护的继承人、臭名昭著的浪子，甚至还有一名克利夫兰汽车制造商驻伦敦的美国代表。有些人因为年龄太大而无法入伍：罗林森最后一次携带步枪还是在维多利亚女王统治时期驻守印度的时候。但他们拥有英国战争部迫切需要的两样东西：速度和机动性。

在汽车仍主要是贵族昂贵玩具的历史时刻，这些人发现自己被抛入了现代战斗残酷的机械运作之中。在几个惊心动魄的月份里，他们担任司机、信使、救护车驾驶员、侦察员和非正式战斗员，他们的贡献长期被忽视并湮没在时间之中。在欧洲陷入停滞且令人窒息的战壕战之前，他们近距离经历了第一次世界大战快速推进的开局阶段：撤退至巴黎、马恩河战役、安特卫普之围以及伊普尔的惨剧。这些驾驶员在盟军之间传递信息，识别敌军动向，填补战线缺口，并在关键时刻帮助防止崩溃。奇迹般地，所有人全部幸存。

他们也处于一种新型战争的前沿。他们所熟知的那个由骑兵冲锋和肉搏战组成的世界，几乎在一夜之间消失，取而代之的是机械化且冷酷无情的东西。几个月之内，欧洲开始利用机枪、毒气、炮击——以及随后的坦克和飞机，以工业规模地杀戮战壕中的士兵。皇家汽车俱乐部的志愿驾驶员不仅仅是在运送军官和公文，他们正在见证现代战争的诞生。

在战争爆发前的那些年里，英国的军事规划者们已经预料到，下一场欧洲冲突将是工业化的，且至少部分实现了摩托化。1913年，英国大约拥有140,000辆汽车和180,000辆摩托车。次年，最后一辆马车巴士从伦敦街头消失，取而代之的是汽车巴士。在大西洋彼岸，亨利·福特的装配线每90分钟就能生产出一辆T型车——没有任何一家欧洲制造商能接近这个速度，但这预示了战争本身很快将采取的工业节奏。

皇家汽车俱乐部（RAC）处于这场变革的中心。RAC由汽油发动机的先驱设计师弗雷德里克·理查德·西姆斯（Frederick Richard Simms）于1897年在伦敦创立。1911年，RAC在白金汉宫附近的帕尔马尔街（Pall Mall）开设了一座宏伟的总部，内部配备了土耳其浴室、室内加热游泳池和一个圆顶中庭。温斯顿·丘吉尔、亚瑟·柯南·道尔和其他名流在优雅的餐厅和图书馆的吊灯下交往。一名爱德华时代的新闻工作者曾观察到：“我怀疑世界上是否还存在一个比这里更富有的俱乐部。”

与战争部一样，俱乐部成员们公开推测即将与德国发生冲突。柯南·道尔地想象着汽车将一群“神枪手”迅速送往战场。具有影响力的英国杂志编辑、早期机动运输倡导者爱德华·什拉普内尔-史密斯（Edward Shrapnell-Smith）警告称，战争部现有的车辆“会让一家三流工程店都感到丢脸”。然而，对于大多数成员以及广大英国公众来说，战争仍然是一个抽象的概念。1914年7月，来自英国、法国和德国的驾驶员在里昂参加了法国大奖赛，而此时欧洲正一步步走向灾难。德国梅赛德斯跑赢了法国标致，这是一个令人不安的预兆，但很少有观众停下来去解读它。《RAC期刊》继续赞美德国是一个具有“无限多样性”的“旅游胜地”，居住着“温顺、淳朴的人们”。

这种幻象在7月下旬破灭了。在波斯尼亚塞族民族主义者于萨拉热窝刺杀弗朗茨·斐迪南大公一个月后，奥匈帝国向塞尔维亚宣战。同盟关系迅速启动。德国军队涌入中立的比利时，旨在横扫法国北部并夺取巴黎。英国指责德国违反比利时主权，并于8月4日宣布宣战以作回应。

坚守阵地 1914年9月，在雷维尼-叙尔-奥尔南（Revigny-sur-Ornain）马恩河第一战后的场景。1914年，RAC驾驶员在法国和英国指挥官之间传递关键情报。

清理瓦砾 在比利时的伊普尔，这座弗兰德斯城市的居民从被毁的房屋中回收贵重物品。中心位置是中世纪的市场——布料大厅（Cloth Hall），被德国炮火摧毁。

几天之内，“成千上万的男人，无论阶级、职业和年龄，已经拥挤在征兵办公室……恳求并请求被录用，”来自康沃尔的36岁退役步兵军官克里斯托弗·达西·布鲁姆菲尔德·萨尔特恩·贝克-卡尔（Christopher D’Arcy Bloomfield Saltern Baker-Carr）回忆道。贝克-卡尔就在其中。在战争部，军需总监听了他的请求——“我想参与其中”——并给出了建议。军队已向皇家汽车俱乐部主席提出，由他为战斗招募一支驾驶员小队。贝克-卡尔在回忆录《从司机到准将》（From Chauffeur to Brigadier）中回忆道，对方说：“去RAC登记你的名字，他们提出要向法国派遣汽车。”

旧方式 1914年9月，在被德国军队炮击并占领后，法国骑兵穿过位于巴黎以北约30英里的被毁城镇森利斯（Senlis）。

贝克-卡尔曾在1898年的苏丹担任一名年轻的步枪手并因此获得一枚勇气勋章，他匆匆赶往位于帕尔马尔的豪宅。数百名申请者正涌向该俱乐部。在这些人中，包括贝克-卡尔在内的二十几人被选中。其中一些是像罗林森那样具有竞争力的赛车手，他的敞篷跑车配备了一台四缸发动机，

重返战场 RAC 驾驶员克里斯托弗·达西·贝克-卡尔，一名退役步兵军官；他后来组织了英国首个机关枪军团并协助引入了坦克。

志愿者们的生活比步兵好，尽管远不及他们往日的奢华。罗林森在被遗弃的农场里搜寻鸡和鸡蛋。

那是哈德逊汽车公司（Hudson Motor Car Company）生产的最快车型，该公司由八位底特律企业家于1909年创立。吉米·拉德利（Jimmy Radley）是一位胆大心细的赛车手、飞行员、气球飞行员，也是约克郡一家煤矿财富的继承人，他开着一辆淡蓝色、50马力的劳斯莱斯银魂（Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost）抵达；这正是他参加1913年在奥地利举行的阿尔卑斯测试赛（Alpine Trials）时驾驶的那辆车，那是一场全长1,820英里的比赛，涵盖了19个山隘和超过800英里的艰险地形。拉德利以其典型的风格开始了比赛：向他的劳斯莱斯散热器中倒入了一杯香槟。

其他志愿者则是富有的业余爱好者。稀有汽车鉴赏家 H. 斯坦利·韦斯科特（H. Stanley Westcott）带来了一辆由意大利都灵的迪亚托（Diatto）公司制造的四缸赛车。该公司成立于1835年，最初是一家高质量的马车制造商，向意大利王室等精英客户销售跑车，战争期间，其客户还包括赛车手及未来的企业家恩佐·法拉利（Enzo Ferrari）。随后，韦斯科特更换为

为速度而生

一辆由西班牙制造商西班牙-瑞士（Hispano-Suiza）生产的流畅豪华汽车。第二任威斯敏斯特公爵休·格罗斯夫诺（Hugh Grosvenor）是一位放荡的贵族，他的时间分配在切希尔一个拥有54间卧室的祖宅、苏格兰和法国的狩猎庄园，以及格罗斯夫诺广场的一座豪宅之间，他贡献了他的17辆劳斯莱斯中的一辆，尽管他经常让司机负责驾驶。弗雷德里克·阿伯纳西·科尔曼（Frederic Abernathy Coleman）是克利夫兰怀特汽车公司（White Motor Car Company）驻伦敦的美国代表，他开着他的怀特30型车（White Model 30）参加志愿服务，这是该公司已过时的蒸汽车辆的汽油动力继任者。这辆车拥有全皮革内饰和镍镀层，仅在1908年的一场英国汽车展上首次亮相。在1907年《名利场》（Vanity Fair）的一幅漫画中，科尔曼被描述为“记者、士兵、商人、道德家以及逍遥学派的哲学家”，他曾报道过中国的义和团起义，并表示自己被盟军的“正义事业”所吸引。他们共同组成了一个在英国军队中绝无仅有的单位。

1914年8月21日，星期五晚上，志愿者们在南安普顿集结，将他们的汽车开进运兵船“格洛斯特城堡号”（Gloucester Castle）的货舱。他们携带了备胎、汽油桶、工具和泵，穿着临时凑合的卡其色制服并佩戴RAC臂章。科尔曼从伦敦的一位戏剧服装设计师那里购买了那套不合身的卡其服，据贝克-卡尔回忆，他“看起来像个穿着不合时宜的奇装异服的富裕银行家”。在主甲板的吸烟室里，在供应充足的伙食供应站之间，贝克-卡尔写道，“关于我们未来工作的最疯狂的猜测被提出了”。有些人想象自己以每小时80英里的速度冲过敌阵，传递“决定军队命运”的消息。其他人则怀疑自己最终会变成高级出租车司机。罗林森注意到，人们很快结识了彼此，“这些情谊可能永远不会被忘记”。

托比·罗林森 1910 年的飞行员证书，右侧为罗林森身穿 RAC 制服的照片，拍摄于他位于东英吉利亚的孙女家中。

美国人 弗雷德里克·科尔曼，出自 1907 年《名利场》的一幅漫画。这位商人兼记者在参加志愿服务时是伦敦著名的汽车爱好者。

他们正航向一场危机。比利时政府在前一天逃离了布鲁塞尔，德国军队在没有开火的情况下占领了这座城市。在它的第一次交战中。

由约翰·法兰西元帅（Field Marshal John French）指挥的90,000人规模的英国远征军被迫从蒙斯撤退，并向南和向西撤离。五支德国军队正根据施里芬计划在法国北部推进，意图包抄法英军队，并在数周内夺取巴黎。一名军事观察员写道，当时存在着“非常真实的被歼灭的危险”。

8月22日黎明，格洛斯特城堡号（Gloucester Castle）在勒阿弗尔港口停靠。罗林森（Rawlinson）蓄着海象般的胡须，身穿皮夹克，戴着赛车护目镜和帽子，在哈德逊（Hudson）汽车的车盖上安装了一面英国国旗，率领着由25辆车组成的车队向内陆的亚眠进发，英国人在此设立了总部。

《名利场》（VANITY FAIR）增刊。

到那时，整个英国远征军已通过铁路被运送到前线，这意味着很少有法国人（无论是军方还是平民）见过他们的盟友。“法国军方对英国将投入多少力量有很多疑问，”威尔士亚伯里斯特威斯大学战争史讲师、第一次世界大战西线军民合作专家克里斯托弗·菲利普斯（Christopher Phillips）表示。“那些疾驰穿过村庄的汽车给人一种‘在场’的感觉。它们宣告着‘英国人来了’。这些人传达了真正的决心。”

罗林森是唯一一名精通法语的志愿者，凭借多年在乡村参加汽车赛的经验，他对诺曼底和皮卡第的乡间小路了如指掌。在接一个又一个村庄里，人群涌上前去，向汽车投掷鲜花和水果。贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）回忆道：“随行人员中至少有一人眼睛被打青了，那是他在以每小时50英里的速度行驶时，一名过于热情的崇拜者扔过来的苹果造成的。”道路上的白色粉尘深达数英寸，覆盖在驾驶员身上，使他们看起来像面粉厂的工人。“我不记得有哪场公路赛像这次这样困难，”罗林森回忆道。

他习惯于艰苦的比赛。阿尔弗雷德·罗林森（Alfred Rawlinson）——大家都叫他托比（Toby）——出生于英国最显赫的家族之一，在野心、学术和特权的熏陶下长大。他的父亲亨利·克雷斯威克·罗林森（Henry Creswicke Rawlinson）曾是

皇家汽车俱乐部（The Royal Automobile Club）总部，于1911年开放。这家专属俱乐部设有客房、酒吧和餐厅、土耳其浴池等设施。

一名在中东任职的士兵和外交官，因破译古代楔形文字铭文而闻名。托比的哥哥亨利后来在西线指挥军队。罗林森本人在任何危险与竞争交汇的地方都表现出色。他曾在印度担任第17枪骑兵团的军官，在1900年巴黎奥运会马球比赛中获得金牌，并在马恩岛驾驶法国达拉克（Darracq）敞篷车参赛。他曾与莱特兄弟一起驾驶实验飞机，并在那些导致他人丧命的坠机事故中幸存——其中包括他的朋友查尔斯·罗尔斯（Charles Rolls），他是劳斯莱斯（Rolls-Royce）的共同开发者，于1910年7月在伯恩茅斯的一场坠机事故中，在人群面前坠地身亡。

法国将以另一种方式考验托比。志愿者们被分散到北部的各个基地开始工作。他们负责在指挥所和野战阵地之间接送军官，报告道路状况，在乡村搜寻被截断或迷路的步兵部队，引导向前线行进的法英士兵，并在盟军将军之间传递信息。虽然盟军也使用了马匹和军用卡车，但皇家汽车俱乐部（RAC）成员的汽车专为速度而设计，能够比载重巨大的军用车辆更快地在破损道路上行驶并绕过拥堵点。“在战争初期，指挥结构之间的沟通至关重要，”菲利普斯说。法国将军们

担心他们的英国盟友可能会转向去保护英吉利海峡沿岸的港口，从而让法国军队独自保卫巴黎。“当时有一种感觉，如果英国军队撤退……两支部队将会失去联系。”最终，英国远征军与法国军队并肩作战，而那些驾驶员，尤其是会说法语的罗林森（Rawlinson），“巩固了这两个合作伙伴之间的关系”。

尽管如此，罗林森起初将自己的一些职责轻视地比作“皮卡迪利圆环的伦敦警察”。但随着战线的移动和德国巡逻队的无处不在，危险就在他们身边。在最初的几天里，美国人科尔曼（Coleman）目睹了一辆血迹斑斑、弹孔密布的法国豪华轿车蹒跚地驶入达马尔坦（Dammartin）。一支德国骑兵巡逻队伏击了它，导致一名乘客死亡，司机受了致命伤。来自己方的威胁同样真实：法国和英国的哨兵在渗透者的传闻中惶惶不安，且对汽车感到紧张，经常在检查站惊慌失措。一天晚上，贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）正护送一名军官——詹姆斯·谢亚（James Shea）少校前往会合点，当他停在桥前的一个检查站时，一名英国军官走进了梅赛德斯轿车大灯的强光中，显然陷入了恐慌，近距离开了两枪。贝克-卡尔写道，第一颗子弹从他们的头部之间飞过；第二颗子弹击碎了一盏车灯。谢亚责骂了开枪者，然后平静地转向他的司机贝克-卡尔。“没关系，伙计，”他说，“我们得继续前进。”

道路本身也构成了持续的危险。道路通常狭窄且未铺砌，挤满了步兵、马匹、牛群、补给车以及装满伤兵的弹药车。贝克-卡尔回忆道，当时他正载着一名将军在勒卡托（Le Cateau）以“上帝允许的最快速度”行驶，这时一排马车突然从侧街冲出。他猛踩梅赛德斯轿车的刹车并猛打方向盘，车身在路面上打滑。汽车擦过了一根灯柱后停了下来。贝克-卡尔回忆说，他“最终平安无事地回到了车道上，对自己（当时认为）相当漂亮的精湛驾驶技巧感到颇为满意”。但那位将军下车时气得发抖：“我的天呐，我的天呐，”贝克-卡尔回忆道，将军重复着这句话，“并给了我最后一个厌恶的眼神”。

新成员 詹姆斯·阿尔曼·德·罗斯柴尔德（James Armand de Rothschild）， 一名出生于法国的 银行继承人， 后来转入 RAC 担任司机兼翻译。 他在一次车祸中受伤。

并非每位军官对他驾驶失误的反应都那样。一天深夜，在乡村巡航时，同一位谢亚少校在旁边的座位上打呼噜，贝克-卡尔开始打瞌睡。几秒钟后，他侧面撞上了一头牛，将动物撞到了空中。随后，当车轮碾过牛身时产生了剧烈的颠簸，将上校震醒了。

“那是什么，伙计？”他猛地坐起来问道。

“一头牛，”贝克-卡尔回答。

“你把它撞死了吗？”

“我想是的。”

“干得好，伙计！”谢亚惊呼道，然后头靠在贝克-卡尔的肩膀上重新睡着了。

随着德国人的持续推进，战争的声音变得更加响亮且临近。德国和英国的双翼飞机飞行员在头顶上进行粗糙的狗斗——有时射击

双方用手枪互相射击。在德国炮兵的持续攻击下，英国后卫部队在道路上行进，罗林森（Rawlinson）写道，他们“步履蹒跚，双脚血迹斑斑，双眼因精疲力竭而变得呆滞……但精神依然不屈”。志愿者们被反复要求从指挥总部撤离英国军官，并在远离敌军的安全地带建立新基地。在一次从达马尔坦（Dammartin）最后一刻逃离的记录中，贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）写道：“关于附近森林中有数千名[德国骑兵]的传闻时刻在传来。打字机和办公设备被扔进等待中的卡车里，这些卡车在城堡前排成密集的队列。”

志愿者们始终在移动，虽然远不及平时的奢华，但生活条件比步兵要好。科尔曼（Coleman）睡在马厩里，或者睡在车里，亦或是在废弃的房屋中。他吃冷汤，吃从被遗弃的食品储藏室里搜刮来的面包和果酱；还有一个令人难忘的早晨，他在一个干草堆的掩护下，吃着一名村民带来的罐装腌牛肉、沙丁鱼和朗姆酒。罗林森在废弃的农场里搜寻鸡和蛋，许多夜晚蜷缩在他的哈德逊（Hudson）汽车里——尽管他也享受着一种

作者简介

约书亚·哈默（Joshua Hammer）上次为《史密森尼》杂志撰稿是关于一场发生在柬埔寨、引发了追讨之战的百年盗窃案。

朱尼·伍德沃德（Jooney Woodward）曾为《史密森尼》关于亚瑟王和威斯敏斯特教堂的封面故事拍摄照片。

“对我们大多数人来说，法国首都的投降似乎已成定局，”弗雷德里克·科尔曼（Frederic Coleman）写道。

在最初的几周里，随着对巴黎的威胁日益增加，流离失所的平民与撤退的军队一起涌向公路。在罗林森（Rawlinson）的朋友、爱德华男爵（Baron Édouard）的表弟詹姆斯·阿尔曼·德·罗斯柴尔德（James Armand de Rothschild）看来，整个国家似乎都在迁移：“难民们赤脚、衣衫褴褛且饥肠辘辘地四处逃窜……无论男女老幼。这真是件可悲的事情。”罗斯柴尔德（被称为吉米）是出生于巴黎的欧洲银行财富继承人，他于7月从伦敦的家中返回，被征召入法军担任文员。他对在后勤部门的岗位感到不安且受辱，于是说服罗林森安排他转入英国远征军担任司机兼翻译——尽管他一生都依赖司机，几乎不懂如何开车。

在爱德华·德·罗斯柴尔德男爵的费里耶尔城堡（Château de Ferrières）度过了不协调地舒适的夜晚，战前他曾与男爵一起狩猎并打马球。

有一天，科尔曼看到英国军队押解一名被俘的德国士兵经过一群法国村民。他在回忆录《与法军共赴蒙斯与伊普尔》（From Mons to Ypres With French）中观察到：“那只是个穿着灰色制服的少年，面色苍白，低垂着眼睛，没留胡须，他似乎完全被暴民威胁的叫喊声给压垮了。”囚犯的恐惧让科尔曼想起了自己岌岌可危的处境。科尔曼知道，作为一名穿着无标志制服的美国公民，如果被俘，他可能会被视为雇佣兵或间谍。贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）对此表示赞同。他写道，德国人“完全有权在看到[科尔曼]的第一时间将其枪毙”。志愿者们穿着的普通卡其色制服也引起了许多英国军官的警觉：在兰德雷西（Landrecies）战役中，韦斯特科特（Westcott）不得不放弃他心爱的迪亚托（Diatto）赛车，随后他前往总部请求一名英国军官允许他将其取回。“那名军官立即怀疑我是间谍，我被逮捕了，”他在同年晚些时候为《RAC期刊》（RAC Journal）撰写的一篇文章中回忆道，“经过极大的困难，我的身份才被认可。”

镀金的勇气 1913年6月，包括未来的RAC志愿者吉米·拉德利（Jimmy Radley）及其“银魂”（Silver Ghost）在内的劳斯莱斯赛车队，在维也纳准备参加阿尔卑斯山试炼赛。

首都 守护者 约瑟夫-西蒙·加利耶尼（Joseph-Simon Gallieni）将军被从退休状态召回以保卫巴黎。他决定通过出租车向马恩河派遣士兵，这有助于防止法国崩溃。

他的缺乏经验显而易见。在用他的劳斯莱斯学习开车后，他把加速踏板当成了刹车，在倒车时撞上了路缘石，这让他所接送的上校大发雷霆。在亚眠（Amiens），他撞上了一根电线杆并毁掉了车轴，但不久后他又回到了方向盘前。“我有一辆极好的小标致汽车，速度很快，是专门为野战设计的，”他写信给妻子道。不久之后，他为了避开一辆卡车而猛打方向，导致车辆翻覆并压在他身上，压碎了他的骨盆。“我在医院度过了一个极其羞愧的夜晚。”他的司机生涯就此结束。

到1914年9月初，德国军队已推进到距离巴黎约25英里以内。当市民们在城市周边挖掘战壕并铺设铁丝网时，罗林森开车送一名参谋官前往荣军院酒店（Hôtel des Invalides），与该市的军事长官—。

约瑟夫-西蒙·加列尼（Joseph-Simon Gallieni）。他回忆道，在敌军前奔逃的难民潮是他“见过最壮观的”。法国文职政府在前一天已逃往波尔多。任何买得起火车票的巴黎人都随之而行，恐慌地挤在奥斯特利茨车站（Gare d’Austerlitz）和里昂车站（Gare de Lyon），随着列车员将更多乘客强行塞进车厢，他们纷纷抛弃了自己的行李。对于罗斯柴尔德（Rothschild）来说，他曾两次开着劳斯莱斯进入巴黎为自己的食堂搜寻食物，这座首都给他的感觉就像一座“死城”。贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）在为约翰·法兰西元帅（Field Marshal John French）向英国大使传递信息时，看到香榭丽舍大街上没有一辆车。酒店和商店全部关闭，一片“死寂”。科尔曼（Coleman）写道：“在我们大多数人看来，法国首都的投降似乎已成定局。”

在马恩河以北一条长达160英里的战线上，100万名德国士兵面对着约10万名英国士兵和100多万名法国军队，准备迎接一场将成为战争中最血腥且最具影响力的战斗之一。包括罗林森（Rawlinson）和拉德利（Radley）在内的皇家汽车俱乐部（RAC）最经验丰富的驾驶员们，日以继夜地在巴黎郊外的乡间小路上疾驰——追踪德军动向，躲避巡逻队，并将情报传递给英法指挥官。一天晚上，罗林森误入了一片德军密集的无人区，在关闭大灯的情况下行驶了13英里，道路仅由月光照亮。后来，在尝试跨越马恩河时，他险些从一座已被摧毁的桥上坠落，他向下望去，看到有六辆车因为未能及时刹车而化为残骸。

战争已然转向工业规模的屠杀，但罗林森和科尔曼也见证了一个消亡时代的最后闪光：一次骑兵冲锋。“噢，那是多么迷人！”科尔曼在山坡上观看时赞叹道，“一个奔驰团的荣耀……以中队阵型在绿野上奔流！”“数千匹马蹄发出的滚滚雷声”唤起了罗林森在印度担任枪骑兵时期的怀旧之情。这里的暴力依然具有令人震惊的近距离感：科尔曼注意到，一名骑兵将长枪刺穿一名德国人，“直到他的手触到了那个注定死亡之人的胸膛。”在战斗中，科尔曼和他那辆白色的敞篷车被征用，负责将伤兵运送到野战医院。“伤员被扔进后座，扔进前排，扔在后方折叠的顶篷上……只要能找到空间的地方就行，”他回忆道，“子弹在周围嗖嗖作响。一个挂在踏板上的人中弹了，在掉下去时发出了惨叫。”

在马恩河的其他地段，炮火和机枪火力的扫射导致双方数以万计的暴露士兵丧生。法国防线似乎接近崩溃，直到9月6日夜晚，加列尼派遣3,000名预备役士兵乘坐600辆巴黎出租车前往增援精疲力竭的军队。出租车旅的到来提升了士气。菲利普斯（Phillips）表示，就像与英国远征军密切合作的皇家汽车俱乐部志愿者一样，“这证明了我们都在共同面对——平民和军队。这是一个转折点。”

服务徽章

罗林森的RAC志愿者驾驶员臂章——一个由带翼的墨丘利支撑并顶着皇冠的辐条轮，中心为英国国旗——拍摄于其孙女家中。

奢华生活方式 左页，2026年RAC伦敦俱乐部的游泳池。下方，1911年的游泳池。这座豪宅的设计师曾完成伦敦和巴黎的丽兹酒店，他们将这座大理石泳池打造为建筑的核心。

不久之后，法国飞行员和 RAC 驾驶员观察到两个过度扩张的德国师之间出现了一个 30 英里的缺口。盟军迅速填补该缺口，威胁要将其包围，迫使德军向北撤退至埃纳河，双方随后在此挖掘阵地。这场大战的性质正从快速入侵转变为一场漫长的、消耗性的战壕与防御工事之战。

詹姆斯·罗斯柴尔德面对被摧毁的乡村和堆积如山的尸体，沉重地审视着局势，并对冲突的转变进行了反思。他在写给妻子的信中写道：“现代战争……在很大程度上已变成一个机械和化学问题。炸药、飞机……无线电和汽车运输。”在经历了六天的战斗并造成多达 500,000 人伤亡后，罗林森宣布：“德国军队向巴黎发起的猛烈且经过长期计划的冲击被彻底击败了。”菲利普表示，随着施里芬计划的崩溃，“德国人陷入了两线作战的困境。从德国的角度来看，这场战争在马恩河战役中就已经输了。”

9 月下旬，罗林森短暂前往伦敦，在那里他购买了“一些极好的机枪”，并将其中一挺安装在哈德逊汽车上。这次购买被证明具有先见之明。他即将作为一名志愿者被派遣执行他最危险的任务。

随着数十万德国军队在埃纳河沿线陷入僵局，德国指挥部在安特卫普发起了一次新的进攻，希望将这座比利时堡垒城市作为跳板，夺取英吉利海峡沿岸的港口。贝克-卡尔指出：“德国人已经意识到海岸线不可估量的价值，并正竭力试图占领它。我们也意识到了危险，正拼命试图避免这场灾难。”英国远征军分阶段悄悄从法国撤出，以应对德国的威胁。罗林森加入了一个驾驶员车队，护送他的兄弟亨利·罗林森将军进行一段从法国出发的 300 英里旅程，以接管这座被围困城市的防御工作。他携带了 250 发弹药，“以备任何（德国骑兵）愿意充当目标时使用”。但当他在布鲁日短暂离开其哈德逊汽车且无人看管时，好奇的平民征用了他的枪，并意外地向城镇扫射。幸运的是，武器当时向上倾斜，子弹“安全地飞过了街道人群的头顶”。

英国皇家海军的文职首脑丘吉尔于 10 月 3, 日乘坐专列抵达安特卫普，随后是他指挥下的一支小型海军旅。但德国的炮火迫使防御者放弃该市，丘吉尔和亨利·罗林森随之撤退。在漫长且尤为危险的旅途中，志愿者有时结伴而行。在接下来的的一周里，托比·罗林森和他的旅伴——一名仅被称为博里特的 RAC 志愿者，在比利时和法国的指挥官之间传递绝密信息，帮助协调英国军队在比利时城市伊普尔附近新前线的部署，而伊普尔是保护加来和敦刻尔克盟军港口的关键地理屏障。沿海路线上的村庄显得阴森且空无一人；德国巡逻队正

据传他们潜伏在沼泽地中。罗林森在旅途中有一段时间是与他的老友休·格罗斯文诺同行，后者似乎总能在前线搞到最好的食物和住所；他们搜寻整个比利时乡村，试图为总参谋部寻找一个合适的总部，最终在奥斯坦德附近找到了一座城堡。有一次，当罗林森在伊普尔附近发现敌方路障时，他将哈德逊汽车隐藏在树篱后面，用机枪向一名德国军官和一名摩托车信使开火，将两人全部击毙。他将其中一名死者的外套拿走作为纪念品。他从司机到信使，再到战斗员的转变就此完成。“在杀死任何数量的德国人时，我没有任何顾虑，”他写道。

1914年11月，盟军在伊普尔周围展开抵抗，这使残酷的战壕战成为了现实。日复一日，德国步兵向英国前线发起冲锋，并以巨大的伤亡被击退。贝克-卡尔写道，炮弹如雨般落在掩蔽在“当时被称为战壕的浅浅地坑”中的英国士兵身上。数以千计的炮弹落在这座中世纪小镇上。贝克-卡尔写道：“渐渐地，伊普尔被废弃了。当人们开车穿过广场时，一种压抑的沉默笼罩其中，而重型炮弹震耳欲聋的爆炸声则更加凸显了这种寂静。”盟军以可怕的代价守住了伊普尔：双方各有约 130,000 名士兵死亡或受伤。

在伊普尔的恐怖经历后不久，皇家汽车俱乐部（RAC）的成员们分道扬镳。在这种泥泞与掩体交织的新型僵持战争中，该单位变得过时了。罗林森驾驶着他的哈德逊汽车——车身布满弹孔，依然飘扬着一面破旧的英国国旗，格栅上安装着两个带尖刺的德国头盔——前往布洛涅，沿途吸引了欢呼的人群，随后将其装上渡轮返回英国。他很快回到法国，在英国远征军中战斗，直到 1915 年 5 月在奥伯斯岭战役中受伤。回到英国后，他组织了伦敦防御齐柏林飞艇袭击的防空体系。在停战协议签署前几个月，已被晋升为上校的他，在

科尔曼的白色 Model 30 汽车在比利时梅西讷市外被德国炮弹和砖块碎片击碎。科尔曼当时不在车内。

RAC 俱乐部会所的一幅壁画展示了威斯敏斯特桥上的想象场景，不同时代的俱乐部成员驾驶着他们的古董车穿行其间。

仪式感

情报在高加索地区。随后，在盟军获胜后，他监督了安纳托利亚土耳其军队的解除武装，在那里，奥斯曼政府因怀疑他是间谍而将其监禁了 20 个月。罗林森写道，他的机枪“一直随我前往各地，直到 1919 年 3 月在埃尔祖鲁姆被土耳其人夺走”。

罗林森的朋友詹姆斯·罗斯柴尔德在担任司机的经历极其糟糕，但后来获得了第二次赢得荣誉的机会。他在 1917-18 年期间在巴勒斯坦担任英国陆军犹太军团的少校，因在那里招募志愿者而获得卓越行为勋章，后来成为国会议员、慈善家以及犹太复国主义运动的知名人物。休·格罗斯文诺——因其祖父的一匹赛马而被称为“本多尔”——则走上了一条阴暗的道路。他成为了纳粹同情者，因其反犹太主义的言论以及加入极右翼亲德俱乐部而臭名昭著，而他如今最为人所知的是与著名的法国 详见第 122 页

发现：1,600-YEAR-OLD 罗马角斗士钱币

将罗马的荣耀握在掌心

当你的名门之父在你在 7, 岁时就任命你为凯撒时，你正踏入一副极其巨大的凉鞋（指承接巨大的责任）。但当那位父亲是君士坦丁大帝时，这些凉鞋的影响力将是史诗级的！

君士坦丁二世在 7, 岁时成为凯撒，20. 岁时成为罗马皇帝。今天，人们记得他是因为他协助延续了父亲将基督教引入罗马帝国的事业，以及他在战斗中英勇的领导力。

但对于许多收藏家来说，他最强大的遗产是创造了罗马帝国历史上最迷人且最独特的青铜钱币之一：“角斗士的工资单”。

角斗士的工资单

罗马青铜币是那个时代的“一美元银币”。它们被用于日常购物以及支付工资。罗马精英角斗士——那些在斗兽场欢呼的人群面前受雇战斗的人——通常以罗马青铜币的形式领取每月的“工资单”。

但这枚特定的罗马青铜币拥有绝无仅有的角斗士血统！这枚钱币铸造于公元 348 至 361 年之间，一面印有皇帝的肖像。另一面则描绘了一场真实的角斗士冲突：一名战士威胁地向一名骑马的第二名战士举起长矛。这一瞬间的戏剧感被凝固在青铜之中 1,600 年，当你握住这枚钱币时，依然能感受到它。环绕在这个戏剧性场景周围的是一段拉丁语铭文——一段你做梦也想不到的短语！

快乐时光再次到来 环绕在角斗士周围的拉丁语铭文写着：“快乐时光再次到来”（Fel Temp Reparatio）。你看，在这些钱币设计的时候，皇帝刚刚在针对罗马敌人的几场重要军事战斗中获胜。与此同时，罗马人正准备庆祝罗马建城 1100 周年。这就是为什么加入了这段欢乐的铭文——为了纪念这些重大时刻。

1,600 年的生存奇迹

十六个多世纪以来，这些令人惊叹的钱币在帝国的兴衰、地震、洪水以及两次世界大战中幸存了下来。少数幸存的罗马青铜币通常是埋藏宝藏的一部分，被隐藏了几个世纪直到被重新发现。

这些真实的罗马钱币可以在世界各地的主要博物馆中找到。但今天，感谢 GovMint.com，你可以将它们找在离家更近的地方：你的家中！

只需不到 $40（另加运费）即可认领一枚您自己的正品罗马角斗士青铜币。每枚钱币都保护在透明亚克力支架中，以便保存和展示。您的钱币将附带一份真实性证书。

遗憾的是，数量极其有限。目前可用数量不足 750 枚。需求量必然会非常大，因此请立即致电，以获得获取这件真实罗马帝国文物的最佳机会。

满意保证

我们邀请您在家里或办公室检查您的钱币——并享有我们 30 天满意保证的信心。

大约 17-20 mm

即刻预订您的钱币！

即刻预订您的钱币： 这些罗马角斗士青铜币在商店中无法买到。请立即致电预订。订单将严格按照来电先后顺序处理。售罄的订单将立即退款。立即行动！

罗马角斗士青铜币 原价 \$49.95 优惠价 \$39.95

订单满 \$99 免运费！ 仅限短期。税前（如有）产品总额超过 \$99。仅限国内标准运输。不适用于之前的购买。

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GOVMINT

您可以在这些页面中找到九个答案 作者：Sam Ezersky

39 播出《House Hunters》和《Property Brothers》的频道

横向 1 可能对感人的电影场景做出反应 5 具有尖端的实用工具 8 基础字体 10 “我说，老 ____！”（英式表达） 12 他的雕像于 2025 年在费城国际机场揭幕 13 利用足部在海底跳跃的软体动物 15 白头鸭的显著特征 17 圣路易斯拱门所在地（简称） 18 抓获，如抓获罪犯 19 “____ 骗局！” 22 遇难者可能会用海贝拼出的字母 24 简约的典范 25 保持 ____ 距离 26 1930 年代一包棒球卡的价格（美分） 28 在拉斯维加斯兴起之前，黑帮经常出没的城市 33 在非洲野狗群中，唯一进行繁殖的雄性或雌性 34 参观 El Castillo 洞穴艺术时禁止携带的物品 36 托洛茨基在墨西哥城有一座博物馆纪念他 37 内部信息 38 理解了

纵向 1 皇家汽车俱乐部（Royal Automobile Club）中的汽车用途 2 鞠躬的神？ 3 英国的古代入侵者 4 辛辣卷玉米片品牌 5 银行支票编号 6 “大！吃惊！” 7 带有女性名称的太平洋现象 9 Uber 的替代方案 11 设有台式机和鼠标的学校工作场所 14 总部位于伦敦的全球银行缩写 16 电梯选择 19 创作了《Who Let the Dogs Out?》的男子组合 20 环形珊瑚礁 21 挂帽子的固定装置 23 恼怒的状态 27 圣经中亚当的孙子 29 “走开，苍蝇！” 30 呼哧呼哧，喘粗气 31 水手的畅饮 32 爱丁堡居民 35 某种疫苗的目标（简称）

请参阅第 126 页的答案。

皇家汽车俱乐部志愿者

时装设计师可可·香奈儿（她本人也带有亲纳粹倾向）。

美国商人兼记者弗雷德里克·科尔曼（Frederic Coleman）基于在该部队的经历写了两本生动的回忆录，但不久便在历史中销声匿迹。贝克-卡尔（Baker-Carr）与罗林森（Rawlinson）一样，将他在皇家汽车俱乐部（RAC）志愿者部队的服役经历转化为重返军旅的跳板——并进而投身于战争本身的机械化。他成功游说战争大臣赫伯特·基钦纳（Herbert Kitchener）创建了机关枪部队，协助开发了 1916 年部署在西线的一些首批坦克，并晋升为准将。他经常回想起担任 RAC 司机的日子，开着他的梅赛德斯奔驰在田园诗般的法国乡村疾驰，那时仍对迅速获胜抱有希望。他写道：“我们怎么也没想到，迎接我们的是四年多痛苦、泥泞与屠杀的岁月。”

在英国，皇家汽车俱乐部仍被认为是该国最负盛名的私人会员俱乐部之一，拥有位于帕尔马尔（Pall Mall）的府邸和一座位于萨里郡的 350 英亩乡村庄园。它所赞助的志愿者部队早已淡出公众记忆，但其努力的痕迹仍可见于成员家属的个人回忆、照片和纪念品中。

十二月的一天，我前往东英吉利（East Anglia）的诺福克郡，去见托比·罗林森（Toby Rawlinson）的后代。托比在 1934 年 6 月因短暂患病突然去世，享年 67 岁。在 16 世纪的庄园海登庄园（Heydon Hall），我见到了罗林森 87 岁的孙女莎拉·简·布尔-隆（Sarah Jane Bulwer-Long）。“奥利弗·克伦威尔小时候在这里爬过树，”她告诉我，并指着庄园客厅墙上挂着的克伦威尔及其死对头查理一世的 400 年前的肖像画。她自己家族的痕迹散落在这些古老的遗物之间。布尔-隆从一个抽屉柜中取出了一本黑色封面的小册子：那是她祖父 1910 年的国际飞行员证书，上面贴着一张托比穿着笔挺 RAC 制服的褪色照片。

布尔-隆的弟弟安德鲁·罗林森（Andrew Rawlinson）——大家都叫他“普迪”（Puddy）——住在附近冈索普（Gunthorpe）的一栋小屋里，在那里他担任罗林森家族精神火种的非正式守护者。他参与制作了两部关于索姆河战役的纪录片，那是 1916 年 rogue-industries.com 1-800-786-1768 的一场大灾难，当时他的叔祖父亨利·罗林森（Henry Rawlinson）中将和道格拉斯·海格（Douglas Haig）将军在英国历史上最血腥的一天，将数万名年轻人送向死亡。走廊里挂着楔形文字破译者亨利·克雷斯威克·罗林森（Henry Creswicke Rawlinson）以及 1886 年穿着骑兵制服、英姿飒爽的年轻托比的装裱照片。图书馆里收藏了大量第一次世界大战的历史书籍，包括托比的三本回忆录，以及一本由英国二战老兵兼军事历史学家 A.J. 史密瑟斯（A.J. Smithers）撰写的已绝版的传记《托比：一个真实的精彩故事》（Toby: A Real Life Ripping Yarn）。

普迪·罗林森是一个秃顶男人，有着一张红润且饱经风霜的脸和蓝灰色的眼睛，他从未见过他的祖父，因为祖父在他出生前六年就去世了。普迪的父亲弗雷德里克很少提及托比的功绩。“我很着迷，但我父亲不是个好导师，”普迪在我们于他的书房里品茶时告诉我。普迪说，弗雷德里克与父亲的哥哥亨利关系更近，甚至在 20 世纪 20 年代陪他一起参加大型猎游，当时老罗林森正担任英国驻印度军队的总司令。

很少有其他家庭成员考虑保存托比服役期间的战利品。普迪记得在哥哥托尼（Tony）家中见过祖父那面破旧的英国国旗，它被安装在同一个木制板球桩上，而这个桩子曾被固定在哈德逊（Hudson）汽车的前端。但它在几十年前消失了，普迪怀疑是被扔掉了。“在那个年代，人们并不太在意纪念品，”他告诉我。两顶带尖刺的德国头盔（Pickelhauben）也失踪了。

一段时间前，普迪开始寻找那个终极奖赏：那辆哈德逊（Hudson）赛车。他请求皇家汽车俱乐部（Royal Automobile Club）提供帮助，但没有结果。他给《赛车运动》（Motor Sport）杂志的编辑写了一封信，希望向公众寻求信息。“他们刊登了这封信，”他告诉我，“但没有人回复。”如今，关于那辆哈德逊赛车唯一的痕迹是家族手中的一张照片：一张托比·罗林森（Toby Rawlinson）在伊普尔战役（Battle of Ypres）结束后的深褐色照片。照片中的他身穿皮夹克，戴着手套的左手夹着一支烟，自信地坐在那辆曾为他立下汗马功劳的汽车方向盘前。

巨嘴鸟

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David Morgan 800-324-4934 davidmorgan.com 11812 N Creek Pkwy N, Ste 103•Bothell, WA 98011

Anthony D. Beadell

Y 4.1776: JULY 4.1776: JULY 4.1776

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解锁全球艺术市场的必读书籍

不仅要理解艺术之美，更要洞察其背后的权力、金钱与欺骗。

作者凭借数十年的第一手经验，带领读者从金碧辉煌的拍卖行走进阴暗的掠夺文物贸易，揭露自负、野心和非法资金如何经常掩盖来源与真实性。由《美术鉴赏家》（Fine Art Connoisseur）主席兼出版人 B. Eric Rhoads 作序。ANTHONY D. BEADELL：资深财富管理师、资深收藏家、艺术家，以及在艺术、古董和文物领域终身追求真理的探索者。

可在各大在线书店购买印刷版、电子书和有声书版本。由 Universal Publishers 出版，售价 $29.95。网址：www.universal-publishers.com

长新冠（）

“患者群体和研究端，”Proal 告诉我。

然而，尽管这些药物试验迫在眉睫，但没有任何一种疗法是专门为治疗长新冠而设计的。这正是 Peluso、Henrich 和其他早期研究人员的工作如此至关重要的原因。人们希望，一旦科学家能够确定长新冠的病理，且医生能够通过血液检查或其他实验室测试可靠地诊断该疾病，研究人员在说服制药公司投资开发新型靶向药物时将会容易得多。只有到那时，如果一切顺利，长新冠患者才能看到研发管线中出现新的实验性药物，这些药物或许有一天能缓解他们的症状——甚至让他们恢复到新冠之前的健康状态。在新冠出现近七年后，我们可能正接近这一漫长轨迹中“开始阶段”的终点，这证明了患者以及像 Vogel 这样的人的毅力，对他们而言，倡导工作绝非易事。

在她的卧室里，Vogel 反思了为什么尽管身体严重受限，她仍维持如此繁重的工作量——她坦言，这是一种平衡行为，要求她对每天的时间进行“无情的优先级排序”，通常将大部分时间交给工作。就在前一天，除了研究职责外，她还参加了两次关于长新冠意识和教育的视频会议：一次是与感染相关慢性病专家 Nancy Klimas 共同参加的小组讨论；另一次，她向全国各地的公共卫生部门官员简要介绍了该疾病。“我在 Zoom 上很拘谨，”她承认道，“你能看出我是坐在床上的，因为你能看到我身后的东西。”

但她说，她依然用这类讲座和虚拟会议填满工作日，因为她认为虽然进展比许多人意识到的要近，但这并非必然。“既然有能力帮助这个群体，我觉得我有道义上的责任将我的技能用于此目的，因为我觉得有理由抱有希望。我希望其他人也能知道这一点——感受到这种希望。”

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墨西哥城博物馆

[该博物馆]奠基于 20 世纪 40 年代初，但两人都没能活到 1964 年它开馆的那一天。几十年来，他们对古代艺术的热情在墨西哥城及其他地区广泛传播：2021 年，阿纳瓦卡利博物馆（Anahuacalli）的翻新与扩建工程完工，引发了新一轮的关注热潮。

如今，它被认为是世界上最古怪但最迷人的博物馆之一，提供了一种沉浸式的美学体验。其主体结构是由深色火山岩建成的金字塔与神庙的混合体，耸立在一个模仿阿兹特克球场的大庭院之上。当我穿过一道门，从刺眼的阳光进入近乎黑暗的空间后，我了解到第一层代表着阿兹特克人的地下世界。在如洞穴般阴森的展厅里，精美的石刻小像在没有标签的架子上被幽灵般的射灯照亮，增添了神秘感与惊叹感，而里维拉（Rivera）的天顶马赛克则强调了阿兹特克羽蛇神奎扎尔科亚特尔（Quetzalcoatl）。一座雕刻楼梯穿过梯形拱门，通往充满光线的上层展厅。最大房间的一面墙上有一幅由里维拉创作的巨幅未完成壁画，描绘了卡罗（Kahlo）向原住民农民教授艺术的场景。那一刻，墨西哥城七个世纪以来奢华的历史变得模糊交织。

随后，在博物馆外的狭窄街道上很难叫到出租车，接着又要顶着这座城市臭名昭著的尖峰时段交通向市中心挪回。我凝视着这座看似无边无际的 21 世纪巨型都市，意识到自己仅仅触及了皮毛。

答案见第 122 页。

纯度：90% 纯金 重量：8.359g 直径：21.6mm

发现：西奥多·罗斯福的失落之金

1908 年，西奥多·罗斯福总统发起了一项雄心勃勃的计划，旨在将美国那些缺乏灵感的钱币转化为足以匹配一个崛起的世界强国的艺术品。罗斯福拒绝了铸币局最初的计划（即简单地将 $20 双鹰金币的设计缩小用于 $2.50 金币面值），转而支持雕塑家贝拉·里昂·普拉特（Bela Lyon Pratt）激进的新方案。

首款流通的“凹陷”设计

普拉特激进的新[设计]没有[凸起]的边缘，而且，主[体]并没有从硬币[表面]凸起……而是凹进了其中！这[是]首次在流通硬币上使用凹刻法。普拉特在设计印第安头像[金币]时，参考了他的导师（奥古斯都·圣-高登斯）1907 年的十美元印第安头像[金币]。

虽然[设计]激进且令人惊叹，但[该币]并未受到公众的欢迎，因为人们担心凹陷的设计会积聚细菌。因此，印第安头像四分之一鹰金币仅在 1908-1929 年间铸造。更糟糕的是，由于在钱币收藏家中缺乏人气，很少有硬币被保存下来。

西奥多的失落之金

在整个印第安头像四分之一鹰金币系列中，1908 年至 1929 年间共铸造了 7,250,261 枚。然而，专家估计，最初的产量中只有不到 5% 以任何品相幸存至今，其余要么在金价飙升期间被熔化，要么随时间流逝而丢失。

美国最古老的钱币公司 Rarcoa® 发现了一小批西奥多·罗斯福失落的 $2.50 金印第安硬币，并于今日向公众发行！

拥有 100 多年历史

我们发现了一批数量有限的 1913 年 \$2.50 季度鹰金币。每枚金币已有 113 年历史，见证了美国一个深刻变革的年份。它是否曾被监督巴拿马运河完工的工头，或是开设首家福特® (Ford®) 装配线工厂的厂长所携带？谁知道您的这枚金币见证了怎样的美国历史！

每枚 1913 年 \$2.50 黄金印第安金币的品相均为“近未流通” (About Uncirculated)。由于我们的库存极其有限，订单将按先到先得的原则处理。不要错过抢购一枚“西奥多失落之金”的机会，现在就订购吧！

1913 年 \$2.50 黄金印第安金币

近未流通品相 - 每枚 \$849

所有订单均免运费

致电 1-833-204-4562

优惠码 GNHP113-1

致电时请提供此代码。

RARCOA 直销

扫描以在线购买。

咨询史密森尼 (ask smithsonian) 您有疑问，我们有专家

问：在拥有先进数学知识之前，欧洲人是如何建造巨大且复杂的教堂的？

虽然中世纪的主建筑师无法进行复杂的计算，但他们在应用几何学和工程学方面拥有丰富的经验。他们使用圆规和方尺等简单的绘图工具来勾勒教堂的比例，依靠基础比例来规划建筑不同部分之间的关系。他们在石匠工坊的地面上绘制设计图以指导工人，并使用弹线（绷紧的绳索）在广大区域内划出完美的直线。主建筑师使用专利模板来指导更精细的雕刻形状。他们通过在石匠、雕刻师和塑像师团队或行会中长期的学徒生涯获得了深入的知识，这些专业人员在不同项目之间广泛流动。他们将从现有建筑中学到的关于支撑和拱顶的知识应用于他们监督的项目中，并尝试新想法。主建筑师在施工过程中检查建筑的结构稳固性，并调整支撑元件（如飞扶壁）以解决沿途发现的任何问题。

Stephen Clancy，艺术与建筑历史学家，史密森尼之旅 (Smithsonian Journeys)

在 Smithsonianmag.com / ask 提交您的疑问

问：为什么昆虫在过去的 3 亿年里体型缩小了？

科学共识认为这涉及多个因素。最大的陆生节肢动物出现于石炭纪和二叠纪，大约在 2.5 亿到 3.5 亿年前。当时，地球大气中的氧气含量高达 35%，而如今约为 21%。由于空气中氧气更充足，体型较大的昆虫能够更轻松、更高效地将氧气输送到所有组织。与后来其他类型的动物进化之后出现的昆虫相比，这些大型昆虫当时的捕食者较少，食物供应更充足，且拥有更多可占据的生态位。在过去的 3 亿年里，进化开始倾向于那些更不显眼、需要氧气更少，并且能够生活在微小缝隙及类似栖息地（这些地方对其他生物来说太小了）的昆虫。

Floyd Shockley，国家自然历史博物馆昆虫学馆藏经理

问：为什么鹦鹉的寿命比狗长这么多？

与平均寿命为 10 到 13 年的狗不同，鹦鹉可以活 50 年或更久。2022 年的一篇论文表明，鹦鹉独特的智能在其更长的寿命中发挥了作用。科学家们研究了来自全球 217 种鹦鹉的动物园记录。他们发现脑容量与预期寿命之间存在直接相关性。在野外，智能能帮助鹦鹉解决诸如寻找食物来源等生死攸关的问题。较大的大脑发育所需的时间也更长，因此智能物种进化出了更长的寿命。通常情况下，鹦鹉的脑体比与灵长类动物相似，而狗的脑体比则较低。鸟类的衰老方式也与哺乳动物不同。它们具有更高的代谢过程，这本应更快地使细胞退化。然而，随着时间的推移，鸟类遭受的细胞损伤明显少于哺乳动物。鸟类生物学的这一奇迹引起了科学家的极大兴趣，因为这可能帮助我们找到减缓自身衰老或减轻疾病导致细胞损伤的方法。

Stacy Hill，国家动物园及保护生物学研究所鸟舍助理策展人

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Smithsonian

A horse conch emerges from its shell on Florida's Sanibel Island. Sanibel's beaches are heaven for shell hunters, but removing live mollusks is illegal.

features

42

The Marvelous Museums of Mexico City

The latest additions to the ancient metropolis span millennia and a stunning diversity of disciplines by Tony Perrottet

58 Who Dwells in a Shell?

The shiny treasures coveted by beachcombers start as homes to a host of fascinating creatures photographs by Devon Matthews text by Jennie Rothenberg Gritz

70

Solving the Long Covid Puzzle

Scientists hustle to help the millions of patients who still suffer years after catching the virus by Mike Mariani

84 A Flair for the Dramatic

Spain's white-headed ducks stand out with their courtship antics and comeback stories photograph by Javier Aznar González de Rueda text by Cheryl Katz

86

Welcome to Hot Springs

Reviving the scenic Arkansas spa town where the mobster elite partied before Vegas was Vegas by Richard Grant

98

Room to Roam

A change of scene offers a chance at survival for perilously endangered African wild dogs by Helen Sullivan

110 The Fastest Men on the Western Front

In the early days of World War I, a team of dauntless drivers helped change the face of modern conflict by Joshua Hammer

18

prologue

09 American Icon: Rocky at 50 + Four foes to match the era

12 Ancient Life: Cave galleries + Birth of abstract thought

20 Civil Rights: Marshall's plan

35 Origins: The backpack

38 National Treasure Mickey Mantle's rookie card ushers in collectibility culture

40 Books: California's gold is still causing a rush

departments

05 Institutional Knowledge by Lonnie G. Bunch III

06 Discussion

122 Crossword Our monthly puzzle

128 Ask Smithsonian You've got questions. We've got experts

Cover: A small framed photo of Frida Kahlo is among the family heir-looms on display at the Kahlo House Museum. Photograph by Alicia Vera

TRAVEL THE WORLD THE SMITHSONIAN WAY

Embark on an enriching small-group journey, exploring a fascinating corner of the globe in depth with Smithsonian Journeys experts and guides. Choose from a range of travel styles on all seven continents.

Visit our website for more information and to request your free catalog.

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Smithsonian JOURNEYS

Let the Journey Begin | SmithsonianJourneys.org

SECRETARY Lonnie G. Bunch III

BOARD OF REGENTS

CHANCELLOR

Chief Justice John G. Roberts Jr.

CHAIR Hon. Franklin D. Raines

VICE CHAIR Mr. Roger W. Ferguson Jr.

MEMBERS

Vice President JD Vance (Ex Officio)

Hon. John Boozman

Hon. Catherine Cortez Masto

Hon. Gary Peters

Hon. Carlos A. Giménez

Hon. Doris Matsui

Hon. Adrian Smith

Hon. Barbara M. Barrett

Ms. Toni Bush

Mr. Michael Govan

Mr. Michael M. Lynton

SMITHSONIAN NATIONAL BOARD

Ms. Michele Hooper, Chair Ms. Anne MacMillan Pedrero, Vice Chair Mr. Todd Krasnow, Vice Chair

NATIONAL BOARD

Ms. Barbara Bonessa (Ex Officio), Mr. Harold M. Brierley, Mr. John F. Brock III, Mrs. Ellen Bruss, Mr. Steven A. Cahillane, Mr. Perry Cohen, Ms. Donelle Dadigan, Mr. Robert DeBenedetto, Mr. Matthew Finick, LL COOL J, Ms. Alice Jacobs, Mrs. Ashley Duchossois Joyce, Mr. Dale LeFebvre, Mrs. María Amalia León, Mr. A. Reid Marsh, Dr. Seth L. Matarasso, Ms. Stephanie Mellin, Mrs. Jo Michalski, Ms. Kyra Li Ai Miller, Mrs. Cheryl Neal, Ms. Emilie M. Ogden, Mr. Pradip Patiath, Ms. Sue Payne, Mrs. Sarah Perot, Ms. Joyce A. Phillips, Dr. Jorge G. Puente, Mr. Roger Jerome Sit, Mr. DeMaurice F. Smith, Ms. Claire Spaht, Ms. Diana Strandberg, Ms. Naoma Tate, Ms. Donna F. Zarcone

HONORARY MEMBERS

Hon. Max N. Berry, Mr. L. Hardwick Caldwell III, Dr. G. Wayne Clough, Ms. Sakurako D. Fisher, Mrs. Patricia Frost, Mrs. Jean B. Mahoney, Mr. Paul Neely, Mr. Wilbur L. Ross Jr., Mr. Lloyd G. Schermer, Dr. David J. Skorton, Mrs. Gay F. Wray

A Dream Realized

THE STORY OF THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE BEGAN LONG BEFORE ITS OPENING TEN YEARS AGO

"All their voices, roaming for centuries, have finally found their home here."

THE U.S. REPRESENTATIVE John Lewis spoke these words just ten years ago—four years before his death—at the dedication of the National Museum of African American History and Culture. The ceremony was one of the most unforgettable days of my life. George W. Bush, an early supporter of the museum, declared that “a great

nation does not hide its history." Legendary singers Stevie Wonder and Patti LaBelle performed. And Barack Obama, then serving as the first African American president of the United States, reminded us that "our glory derives not just from our most obvious triumphs but how we've wrested triumph from tragedy."

In 2014, Lonnie G. Bunch III, then the director of the National Museum of African American History and Culture, visits the project site.

That day represented more than a decade of work, more than a century of dreams and half a millennium of history. "People say this is the tenth anniversary," Kinshasha Holman Conwill, the museum's first deputy director, told me, "but it's really the 20th."

Long before the star-studded celebrations and fanfare that opened the museum, NMAAHC consisted of a tiny staff with grand ambitions. One day in 2006, Evelyn Lieberman, the Smithsonian's communications director, camera in hand, suggested that Holman Conwill and I, then the museum's director, look from the balcony of the American History museum, across the street to the empty tract of land where the new building would stand. I still recall the sense of excitement we felt looking at the site.

The next ten years were full of similar unseen, unsung, unknown moments, fundamental to the creation of the museum. Colleagues worked around the clock; donors and advisers made themselves available at any time, for any reason; volunteers showed up repeatedly, before there was even a building, cementing our faith that this would be a place for all Americans.

At the end of the inaugural event, instead of cutting a ribbon, we invited four generations of the Bonner family to ring a historic church bell. As 99-year-old Ruth Bonner, whose father was born into slavery, pulled on the Freedom Bell along with her 7-year-old great-granddaughter Christine, dozens of churches around Washington, D.C. and across the country joined them, ringing their bells in unison.

When I asked Lynn Chase, the museum's former project director, what her favorite memory of the opening was, she recalled walking to her car the night before the ceremony, looking out on the gleaming museum and the orbit of news cameras setting up for the next day. "I felt like I was standing on the most important corner in the city," she said. "I was moved to tears for what we had accomplished."

Ten years on, I feel the same.

Smithsonian truly expand understanding, knowledge and awareness of themes highlighting our country as well as the wider world, past and present.

Mimi Brodsky Chenfeld | Columbus, Ohio

Laura Bray | Boerne, Texas

Congratulations on the “America at 250” issue! I relished reading every page, and I came away with a much deeper appreciation for what the United States has created, is, and promises.

Smithsonian thanks you for your subscription, which supports the Smithsonian Institution's unique mission to explore the natural world, celebrate the arts and connect Americans to their history.

X (TWITTER): @SmithsonianMag INSTAGRAM: @smithsonianmagazine FACEBOOK: smithsonianmagazine

David Boulé | Torrance, California

"I read it cover to cover and was impressed by every component."

I commend your decision to profile Margaret Fuller (“A Woman’s Guide to Self-Reliance,” Summer 2026). Her exhortation to men to “remove arbitrary barriers” was way ahead of her time and rings true even today, more than 150 years later.

Ahead of Her Time

Without question, the Summer 2026 issue is the very best, or GOAT, edition of Smithsonian! I read it cover to cover and was impressed by every component. I learned new and fascinating facts with nearly every page, beginning with the revelatory piece on Thomas Paine (“A Republic in the Stars”) and continuing through “The Last Word.”

America at 250

Vandy Bradow | Durham, North Carolina

Thank you for the treasure that is this magazine. I look forward to every issue. Every piece is informative, inspirational, beautifully written. The contents of

A One-Sided View

Richard Norton Smith's article “Woodrow Wilson's Daring Home Front” (Summer 2026) was a virtual ha-giography of a most undeserving individual. Smith praised Wilson for his various strengths and gave but a glancing series of minor comments as to his very substantial shortcomings. He virtually ignored the overt racial bigotry of Wilson, a fault that set back racial progress in our country at least a generation. He totally ignored Wilson's blocking of women's suffrage, which Wilson finally reluctantly accepted when he had no choice. Smith barely even obliquely referenced the nefarious Sedition Act of 1918, which ranks among the worst violations of civil liberties our country has ever had.

Kalman Barson | Somerville, New Jersey

More Than Just Words

I was pleased to see a piece on Sequoyah (“A New Kind of Writing,” Summer 2026), who created a writing system and taught the majority of his tribe to write and read Cherokee. Soon the Cherokee newspaper appeared in both English and Cherokee, helping unify the Cherokee in a time of distress. The Cherokee Phoenix continues publishing in both writing systems.

Karen Coody Cooper | Tahlequah, Oklahoma

Corrections: In “Theater of Relief” (Summer 2026), we incorrectly cited 1860 as the year that dentist William T.G. Morton died. He actually died in 1868.

“Vessel of History” (April/May 2026) mischaracterized George Washington’s salary as commander of the Continental Army. In fact, he received no regular salary but was reimbursed for his expenses.

CONTACT US

Send letters to LettersEd@si.edu or to Letters, Smithsonian, MRC 513, P.O. Box 37012, Washington, D.C. 20013. Include a telephone number and address. Letters may be edited for clarity or space. Because of the high volume of mail we receive, we cannot respond to all letters. Send queries about the Smithsonian Institution to info@si.edu or to OVS, Public Inquiry Mail Service, P.O. Box 37012, Washington, D.C. 20013. For subscription services, please call 800-766-2149 or email Smithsonian@SmithsonianService.com.

Celebrate America's 250th All Year Long

Reconnect with America's origin story in Virginia's Historic Triangle. Beyond the iconic attractions and theme park thrills, Williamsburg also makes for an eco-conscious getaway with its walkable historic towns, nature parks and trails, scenic paddling spots, sustainable dining, vintage and upcycled shopping, and environmentally friendly places to stay.

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prologue

By Chris Carra -

Photograph by Vincent Tullo

AMERICAN ICON

Rising With the Punches

Fifty years since Rocky's first outing, America is still in his corner

This famous 1980 bronze statue by A. Thomas Schomberg was recently on exhibit inside the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

AMERICAN ICON

HE CROWD AT OHIO'S Richfield Coliseum erupted on March 24, 1975, as Chuck Wepner hit the ropes just 19 seconds short of the final bell. Few had expected the journeyman fighter to withstand a couple of rounds against Muhammad Ali, let alone come achingly close to surviving the full 15—with the wherewithal to knock the champion to the canvas at one point. Not long after watching the fight live in a Los Angeles movie theater via closed circuit, a young aspiring actor named Sylvester Stallone was moved to begin writing a screenplay.

Completing his initial script in little more than three days, Stallone told the fictional story of Rocky Balboa, a backstreet boxer from Philadelphia who gets the opportunity to challenge the flamboyant heavyweight world champ, Apollo Creed, in an exhibition match during the United States' bicentennial. Stallone wrote the part of Rocky for himself—and to ensure that he played the lead, he rejected an offer for the film rights from United Artists, reportedly

“ WHEN THEY'RE CHEERING FOR ROCKY, THEY'RE CHEERING FOR THEMSELVES.

worth \$360,000. The production company, wary of casting an unknown, ultimately paid Stallone a lower price, then greenlighted the movie with a shoestring budget of around \$1 million. Upon its release in 1976, Rocky punched well above its weight, drawing more than \$225 million at the box office. Fifty years later, the scrappy hero remains shorthand for American grit.

”

Like Wepner, Rocky had no realis-

tic chance of winning his once-in-a-lifetime bout, yet his determination to go the distance saw him become one of cinema's favorite underdogs. Amid the economic malaise of 1970s stagflation, Stallone's slurring, bloodied embodiment of working-class

In Creed (2015), Stallone's aged Rocky passes the torch by training Adonis Johnson (Michael B. Jordan).

perseverance resonated with moviegoers and critics alike, earning ten nominations at the 49th Academy Awards and winning three—including Best Picture.

The film was shot on location in less than a month, and director John G. Avildsen took a semi-guerrilla approach. Key scenes were filmed without permits, unsuspecting locals were used as extras, and the story played out among a largely unknown cast; Burgess Meredith, as Rocky's cantankerous trainer, Mickey, was the biggest name in the credits. This intimate, authentic feel—more akin to a sports documentary than to a scripted film—became one of the movie's greatest strengths. A 1977 New York Times article

reported that many theater audiences treated the film almost as a live sporting event: They “shouted for their hero, suffered vocally with each blow to his face, exulted when he got in a good punch and cheered loudly when it was all over.”

Some viewers even came to conflate Rocky's underdog story with Stallone's astonishing real-life ascent from a chronically struggling actor to an Oscar-nominated star and screenwriter in

about a year. But as Stallone told Vanity Fair in September 1990: “Rocky’s not me....They’re not responding to the politics and the beliefs of Sylvester Stallone. When they’re cheering, they’re cheering for Rocky. And when they’re cheering for Rocky, they’re

cheering for themselves."

Throughout the six-film series, Stallone approached the title role with a gravitas few might expect. Ahead of Rocky III, he trained with legendary bodybuilder Franco Columbu and reportedly lowered his body fat levels to 2.8 percent—beneath the threshold deemed healthy. His physical daring went further still in Rocky IV: During filming, Stallone had the 240-pound martial artist Dolph Lundgren—playing Balboa's Soviet counterpart, Ivan Drago—punch him in the chest so hard, it put him in intensive care for days.

Half a century on, the trumpet fanfare of the film's theme, Bill Conti's "Gonna Fly Now," remains a stirring anthem of determination, played from locker rooms to presidential campaign rallies. The Philadelphia Museum of Art may hold more than 240,000 objects, but its most recognizable artifact is a statue of Stallone

as Rocky that has long enjoyed an iconic spot outside at the east entrance, where 72 stone steps—the terminus of Rocky’s triumphant training run—endure as a pilgrimage for fans. In 2025, Philadelphia International Airport unveiled a ten-foot bronze statue of Rocky to greet arrivals to the city, recognizing that he’s as vital a symbol for Philly as the Liberty Bell or the cheesesteak. The film critic Matt Zoller Seitz has called the first Rocky “as perfect a film as has ever been made,” writing for RogerEbert.com in 2024 that “the original 1976 Rocky has become part of the pop-culture unconscious, holding its spot as tightly as Casablanca and It’s a Wonderful Life.”

Rocky's career in the ring ended with a final outing in Rocky Balboa (2006), but the universe Stallone created continues to expand. The spinoff Creed series, following the exploits of Apollo's son Adonis, is now a franchise in its own right, with a fourth installment in development. To coincide with Rocky's 50th anniversary, Stallone will publish his memoir, appropriately titled The Steps, in September, and a biopic is set to follow in November. I Play Rocky, starring Anthony Ippolito as Stallone, will chart the unconventional development of a movie legend.

Though Rocky has now bowed out of the ongoing Creed franchise, his imprint endures. As the series' star, Michael B. Jordan, has said, Stallone and "Rocky's DNA is through this entire franchise.... That underdog spirit, I think, connects the underdog in all of us."

Real Heels

ROCKY'S ANTAGONISTS WERE LARGER THAN LIFE. EACH DEFINED AN ERA By David J. Roth

ROCKY II

Apollo Creed (Carl Weathers) kept his title belt in the first film, but in this sequel, desperation—the champ's for a more decisive win, Rocky's to make ends meet—pushes both to a brutal rematch. Apollo is Rocky's ultimate foil: charismatic, a little bored with success and too quick to dismiss a working-class palooka.

ROCKY III

Despite Hulk Hogan's early turn in the film as a wrestler called Thunderlips, Rocky's real rival here is rising fighter James "Clubber" Lang, played by Mr. T. (Real-life champs Joe Frazier and Earnie Shavers were considered for the role.) The jacked, triumphant Rocky of the 1980s was very different from the hardscrabble '70s version, and Lang proved an appropriately cartoonish foe.

ROCKY IV

Rocky's most evil nemesis is Soviet champion Ivan Drago (Dolph Lundgren), who fatally injures Creed during an exhibition fight. Drago is a perfect villain for the late Cold War: Precisely programmed to "break" Rocky, he pumps performance enhancers and obeys icy government handlers. Drago's afterlife is consequential: His dispatching of Creed provides the basis for Ryan Coogler and Michael B. Jordan's Creed franchise.

ROCKY BALBOA

Three decades after Rocky, the series comes full circle in 2006, with another long-shot bout against (yet) another champion who takes Rocky too lightly. This time, it's Mason "The Line" Dixon, played by former light heavyweight champ Antonio Tarver. The outcome is once again a split-decision win for the titleholder—but a moral victory for the eponymous people's champ.

In Spain's Cave of El Castillo, red ochre paintings depict rooflike shapes from the Upper Paleolithic.

Living Frescoes

Far from static, prehistoric paintings were dynamic and lively—especially in torchlight

AST YEAR, I FOLLOWED two archaeologists through a heavy metal gate into a cave called El Castillo, in northern Spain. Artists likely visited the cave many times between 13,000 and 41,000 years ago, with only torches and rudimentary lamps to help them avoid dangerous falls and cave bears with claws capable of lacerating

stone. They entered the deepest, darkest chambers and made engravings and drawings of not only animals but also red disks, hand stencils and geometric patterns—nearly 3,000 of which remain legible today. “If the Paleolithic record were a book, then in El Castillo we have every chapter, more or less,” one of the archaeologists, Eduardo Palacio Pérez, told me. “We have practically all the themes in Paleolithic rock art in Europe.”

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ANCIENT LIFE

Nowadays, the area that's known as the dark zone, beyond the reach of natural light, isn't so perilous. Cave bears went extinct more than 24,000 years ago, and El Castillo was outfitted with stairs and electric lighting for tourists in the 1950s. We passed through the first large chamber and turned down a passageway normally off limits for visitors. We stopped to admire the so-called Polychrome Panel, or the Panel

To create the hand art of El Castillo, our forebears may have put the pigments in their mouths and then spat out paint to stencil their hands.

WHAT MOTIVATED PREHISTORIC PEOPLE TO CREATE ART IN CAVES, OFTEN AT GREAT PERSONAL RISK?

of Superimpositions, where many artists, over thousands of years, had crowded a wall with a mixture of hand stencils and outlines of animals in black charcoal and red, orange and brown ochres, faded to varying degrees. I would have liked to press my own palm against a stencil and shake hands across more than 30,000 years, but of course this was forbidden. "For scholars, the wall is sacred. You can't touch anything," said the other archaeologist, Diego Garate, a

BYLINES

Ben Crair writes frequently about science for the New Yorker, New York magazine and Bloomberg Businessweek.

professor at Spain's University of Cantabria, “but obviously, for Paleolithic people, it was the contrary. They were in a close relationship with the walls.” (So close, in fact, that researchers from the Max Planck Institute were recently able to recover ancient human DNA from some decorated cave walls.)

What motivated prehistoric people to create art in caves, often at great personal risk? The question has preoccupied and divided archaeologists ever since the discovery of the exquisite red-and-black bison on the ceiling of the Altamira cave, in northern Spain, in 1879. When Garate began his studies more than a century later, many scholars were still trying to crack the code. Different theories had slid into and out of fashion—that the animals were totems of different clans, representations of male and female fertility, or marks made by shamans in altered states of consciousness. Many scholars believe that the emergence of cave art was the moment when Homo sapiens became behaviorally modern, the product of a newly evolved capacity for symbolic and abstract thought.

As Garate visited more caves in Spain and France, helping discover around half a dozen decorated caverns in the Basque Country, he wondered less about the artists' intentions and more about their

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ANCIENT LIFE

experiences in the sites. Nowadays no one dares to light a smoky torch or touch the walls in the delicate environment of a cave like El Castillo, so Garate was happy, around a decade ago, to find a cave near a crowded Basque beach whose only artwork was some recent graffiti. “There was nothing of interest from an archaeological point of view,” he said. The first time Garate lit a torch inside that cave, the flame illuminated only a dozen feet or so, and its flickering red light moved constantly and danced with shadow. It was a completely different experience from exploring a cave with the white beam of a flashlight. “Cave art is not like a picture on the wall,” he said.

Other archaeologists, too, have turned their attention from drawings and etchings in isolation to other components of cave art, like lighting, placement, sound and touch. Their research is revealing cave art to be far more dynamic and immersive than most of us appreciate when we see it in photographs, or even a film like Werner Herzog's Cave of Forgotten Dreams, a 2010 documentary about the Chauvet Cave in southern France. One pair of anthropologists called cave art a “pre-echo of cinema,” while another team compared it to “modern installation art,” which “integrated the artist/viewer and their physical environment in a two-way relationship that was constantly changing.” In their view, cognitive explanations for the origins of cave art have overlooked its sensual side.

I wanted to get a feel for this in El Castillo. The theory is that artists made hand stencils for thousands of years before they began depicting animals: One of the

cave's chambers was called the Ceiling of Hands. A decade ago, a British archaeologist named Paul Pettitt and several colleagues analyzed the placement of handprints along the walls. They found that the stencils hadn't been slapped willy-nilly around the cave; the artists had carefully scrutinized the cave walls before making their marks. The majority of hand stencils were placed near a fissure or an undulation in the wall, often in a gripping position or in a concave

curve. “The placement of the stencils suggests the use of hands to steady the explorer,” the team noted. Artists apparently maintained this close relationship with the walls of caves even as they started to depict animals around 35,000 years ago.

At the Polychrome Panel, Garate and Palacio Pérez used a laser pointer to help me discern the outlines of animals, faded over the millennia. They occurred at different sizes and orientations against the wall, like the shapes left by cookie cutters in dough, but their placement was not as random as it seemed.

On a jut of rock resembling a bison's head in El Castillo, a prehistoric artist made simple marks to evoke eyes and a nostril.

Like the hands, many animals were carefully placed to incorporate natural features of the cave. A large bison's back seemed to bulge with muscle from a jut in the wall. "Some researchers say that this rock surface suggests the animal," Palacio Pérez told me. In other caves, artists used cracks in the walls to complete the antlers of elk and ridges to suggest the dorsal lines of horses. Animals sometimes seemed to emerge from and recede into fissures—an effect that might have appeared almost animated in the moving shadows projected by a flickering torch.

Modern viewers have long admired the way in which cave artists used natural features, but until

“

WE COULD LIGHT A TORCH IN THE COMPUTER AND SOLVE THIS PROBLEM WITH VIRTUAL REALITY.

”

recently, not many have considered how these natural features might have inspired the art itself. Pettitt and the archaeologist Derek Hodgson have argued that the visual systems of Paleolithic hunters evolved to detect the outlines of large and partially obscured animals—and that this primed them to perceive animal-like shapes in the natural forms of dark and disorienting caves. Izzy Wisher, an archaeologist at Aarhus University, in Denmark, reached

a similar conclusion. “One’s visual familiarity with certain stimuli (particular animals, faces or objects) may shape the visual system to perceive ambiguous or fragmented stimuli as being evocative of familiar forms,” she and colleagues wrote in 2023.

Perhaps artists pressed into the darkest parts of caves to experience this confusion of the senses. They were not so much searching for blank canvases for their mental compositions as they were seeking to discover animal forms in dialogue with caves. The dark zone was not a lonely and lifeless place;

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it was filled with visions and encounters of which the art itself became a record. Pettitt and Hodgson have called the dark zone a “simulated hunting environment” that provoked the kinds of images the human visual system was inclined to perceive.

We continued through a long tunnel with more hand stencils and arrived in a large chamber whose central stalagmite featured the “bison man,” a bison that seemed to be walking like a person, on his hind legs. Depictions of humans were rare in Paleolithic times, but some scholars have speculated that the figure could have represented a shaman wearing a hide.

The artist had chiseled away at the stone to create three-dimensional texture, giving extra definition to the figure's knees and thighs—and some scholars believe he or she had also modified the top of the stalagmite to create a dramatic effect. Garate shone his flashlight on the stalagmite, and a shadow that looked like the silhouette of a bipedal bison appeared on the rear cave wall. Garate moved the flashlight, and the shadow figure seemed to walk. Pettitt wrote that there was “no clearer example of the interaction between cave topography, shadow and art in the Paleolithic use of deep caves.”

But Garate wasn't sure the effect was intentional. His flashlight made a far-reaching beam of light, but a ten-foot circle of flickering torchlight might not have been powerful enough to create the same projection.

Torches aren't allowed in El Castillo, to avoid blackening the walls, but Garate said debate might be settled another way: "We could light a torch in the computer and solve this problem with virtual reality." Garate often uses digital reconstructions of caves to answer these kinds of questions, and Wisher published a paper in 2023 using virtual reality to simulate torchlight in another cave, called Las Monedas, on the same hill as El Castillo.

I told Garate that the projected shadow seemed to me too bisonlike to be accidental. “The cave suggests a lot of things,” he said with a shrug. We left the chamber and ducked again off the pathway into a tiny alcove that was so low we had to stoop. The archaeologists wanted to show me a work of art dubbed “The Mask of El Castillo.” The mask was on a curtain of rock that hung from the ceiling and was naturally sized and shaped like a bison’s head. The artist had painted only a black circle to suggest an eye and a black dash to suggest a nostril. “It’s like the head of a bison coming out of the wall,” Palacio Pérez pointed out.

Of all the figurative art I'd seen, it was the simplest—just two black markings—yet the most evocative. It felt as though the bison itself were waiting for visitors, so he could give advice or take confession. The work summoned a presence. It required no mind-altering substances, only the natural gropings of the human senses, an intimate encounter with space and stone. The artwork may have been private, but the artist was not alone.

From Bison to Byron

EVIDENCE FROM PALEOLITHIC ART SHOWS HOW HUMANITY EVOLVED TO MAKE A GREAT COGNITIVE LEAP

By Angela Serratore

HEN OUR PREHISTORIC counterparts crawled deep into caves to create art on the walls, many researchers agree, those early humans were also leaving evidence of a profound moment in the human mind's evolution: the emergence of abstract thought.

A painted bison, however rudimentary, is a symbol—a representation of something not physically present. Creating and understanding symbols requires the ability to think beyond the here and now, connecting lines on a wall to the shape of a living, breathing creature outside the cave.

“Today, much of my mind is contained within my mobile phone, the modern equivalent to a painted animal or carved figurine for an Ice Age hunter-gatherer,” says Steven Mithen, an archaeologist at the University of Reading in England and the author of The Prehistory of the Mind, The Singing Neanderthals and The Language Puzzle, among other titles.

As Mithen and many others see it, when humans developed the capacity to depict images of their world, they were also strengthening their ability to think in categories—what we'd now call abstract thought. Ice Age people, he says, used paintings and carvings as “cognitive anchors” for ideas that were otherwise difficult to remember, share or process. Mithen explains: “Earlier humans, whether of Homo sapiens or other species, such as the Neanderthals, never mastered this trick of extending their powers of thought by using material objects, constraining them to live in a world without abstract ideas.”

With cognitive and cultural evolution, shared knowledge became easier to sustain and pass down to future generations.

"The figurative art of cave painting took the externalization of ideas and information to an unprecedented level," Mithen says, "one not exceeded until the invention of writing many thousands of years later."

Chasing the Lights

Hurtigruten's Northern Lights Cruise brings the magic of the Aurora Borealis to you Heather Greenwood Davis

At first, standing on the darkened deck of MS Trollfjord, I wonder if I'm dreaming. But telltale white wisps in the sky confirm: The lights are coming. Norway is one of the best places in the world to behold the Aurora Borealis. And when the dance begins, my camera shows what my eyes can't discern: Spiralling green funnels, soaring purple arcs and bursting red coronas. Far from city lights, the pitch-black sky becomes a mesmerizing kaleidoscope of light, color and movement over our ship. No photograph will do justice to what I'm seeing. No video can accurately convey how it feels to stand under this pulsating canvas.

As the lights move along the coast so do we, following the Aurora Oval. When it subsides, a Nordlys cocktail awaits – a colorful reminder that our sightings are just beginning. Tomorrow night we will return, necks craned skyward, in anticipation of another celestial masterpiece.

Visit Hurtigruten.com or contact your preferred travel advisor and discover the magic of Norway.

HURTIGRUTEN

The Marshall Plan

With care and patience, the future Supreme Court justice built his case against Jim Crow

HURGOOD MARSHALL WAS feeling confident—or certainly looked like he was. At 37 years old, the attorney and head of the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People Legal Defense Fund was a rising star who had won two of his first three cases before the U.S. Supreme

Court. Boisterous and charismatic, he blew into the tiny town of McAlester, Oklahoma, in November 1945 to announce an audacious new plan: He was going to get a Black student enrolled at the University of Oklahoma, the state's all-white flagship college. "This is the easiest case to beat that ever entered the courts of Oklahoma," Marshall boasted before a crowd of local NAACP delegates. "I could win this type of case even down in Mississippi."

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The NAACP had tried and failed to take on Jim Crow segregation in education before. All roads to justice were blocked by Plessy v. Ferguson, the 1896 Supreme Court ruling that legally protected segregation under the “separate but equal” doctrine. While the court argued that segregated schools were a “valid exercise of . . . legislative power,” Americans of all races knew “separate but equal” to be a farce. Black students were too often shunted to poor, racially isolated schools that offered fewer opportunities than those of their white counterparts.

In 1956, Black students arrive at Clinton High School, the first Tennessee public school to integrate following the Supreme Court's Brown v. Board of Education decision.

THE VERY FACT OF SEGREGATION ESTABLISHES A FEELING OF HUMILIATION AND DEPRIVATION.

Marshall believed that the best route to dismantling Jim Crow was through the courtroom. But he also understood that an “all-out attack” on segregation, as he often called it, could not be achieved with a single judicial ruling. The cruel logic of Plessy would have to be chipped away piece by piece, case by case. While the Supreme Court’s 1954 decision in Brown v. Board of Education is widely remembered for tearing down the “separate but equal” doctrine in schools, that landmark ruling couldn’t have happened without the roster of courageous students who were willing to barrel across the color line in the decades prior. They were led by an attorney determined to create a more equal world at a time when courts, colleges and even some of his fellow Black leaders deemed it impossible. “You just simply cannot have a little segregation,” Marshall once remarked. “You cannot rationalize on the necessity of segregation at all.”

FOR MARSHALL, the desire to destroy Jim Crow wasn't just a professional calling; it was personal. Lanky, personable and usually armed with a vulgar joke, Marshall had been known as a class clown growing up in Baltimore. Langston Hughes, a classmate during his undergrad years at Lincoln University, described him as "rough and ready, loud and wrong, good natured

and uncouth." He straightened up when he decided to become a lawyer and set his sights on enrolling at the University of Maryland's law school. But he was unable to attend because of the color of his skin, an injustice that would motivate much of his career.

In 1930, he begrudgingly enrolled at Howard University, which had a small, struggling law school at the time. The decision would prove transformative. At Howard, Marshall encountered Charles Houston, the stern new dean of the law school and later an attorney for the NAACP. Houston instilled a sense of purpose in his young students, predicting that the Black lawyers of Marshall's generation would become the social engineers of a new America.

After Marshall graduated at the top of his class, an impressed Houston recruited him to help with legal work for the NAACP. The organization wanted to improve Black schools but was still casting about for the best way to do so. Initially, in the 1920s, the civil rights group laid out a plan to file a barrage of targeted lawsuits to increase funding for Black schools on a case-by-case basis. In 1931, NAACP attorney Nathan Margold argued that the organization should challenge the constitutionality of segregation directly by exposing the widespread inequality between white schools and Black ones.

When Houston became the NAACP's lead attorney, he made a savvy revision to Margold's strategy:

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CIVIL RIGHTS

Instead of targeting elementary and high schools, he would look for inequities in higher education. Using legal pressure, the NAACP could force states to either build expensive “separate but equal” professional schools for Black students or admit them into white schools. Any Black-only facilities that failed to live up to an equal standard would only bolster the argument that African Americans were being denied their basic rights.

The early years pursuing the strategy led to misfires. In 1938, Houston and Marshall successfully argued before the Supreme Court that a Black student named Lloyd Gaines deserved a spot at the University of Missouri's law school. Yet just before classes began, Gaines disappeared mysteriously, embarrassing the NAACP. The weight of breaking the color barrier may have simply been too much for the young man; his last known correspondence was a letter to his mother lamenting the pressures he faced fighting for the “lasting success for 13 million Negroes.”

Houston soon retired, and Marshall became the head of the NAACP's new Legal Defense Fund. His team scoured the South for suitable candidates who could apply to professional schools—and who, if they became plaintiffs, wouldn't disappear. In 1945 they found an ideal person in Ada Lois Sipuel, a 21-year-old college graduate and aspiring lawyer from Oklahoma. Sipuel's parents had escaped Tulsa after

the race massacre of 1921, when a white mob burned down the Black neighborhood of Greenwood. She was more than familiar with racial hatred, and she seized the opportunity when the NAACP recruited her to challenge discrimination at the University of Oklahoma. “The law was wrong,” she said later of her reasoning. “The whole system was unfair.”

In January 1946, Sipuel applied to the University of Oklahoma's law school and was denied because of her race. Marshall and the NAACP quickly filed suit, and within two years the case made its way to the Supreme Court. Although in earlier education cases the NAACP had mostly stuck to arguing that Black students deserved equal facilities, this time Marshall attacked Plessy directly. He declared that the “separate but equal” doctrine was “without legal foundation.” The Supreme Court ruled in Sipuel's favor, but the decision pointedly sidestepped the question of whether “separate but equal” was constitutional. The court would allow only that Sipuel deserved a law school education, however the University of Oklahoma might see fit to create it. Seizing on this vague directive, state officials hast-

ily established a sham Black law school located in a few spare rooms in the state capitol. Sipuel, insulted, refused to enroll.

PROGRESS IS OFTEN SLOW AND INCREMENTAL—UNTIL IT HAPPENS ALL AT ONCE.

Other high-profile cases that Marshall pursued at the same time hit similar roadblocks. The same month of the Sipuel decision, a professor named George McLaurin

applied to attend the University of Oklahoma's graduate school and was denied. Following a lawsuit, he was admitted with reluctance, but the school assigned him a desk in a separate alcove from white students and banned him from eating lunch with his classmates. In Texas, a 33-year-old mailman named Heman Sweatt filed suit to enroll at the University of Texas law school. The state's attorney general declared that Sweatt would never “darken the doors” of the university, and college officials set him up in a separate, charade law school similar to Sipuel's at Oklahoma.

In 1948, the Supreme Court said George McLaurin was entitled to attend the University of Oklahoma—but he had to sit apart from white students.

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CIVIL RIGHTS

The legal victories were widely celebrated in the Black press and at NAACP headquarters—"there was lots of Scotch and bourbon," one attorney recalled—but there was also worry from some Black leaders about the narrow scope of the ruling. "I know you would have preferred a clear-cut overruling of Plessy v. Ferguson," a friend of Marshall's wrote to him consolingly in a private letter.

But Marshall didn't think the window of opportunity was closing; far from it. "A careful reading of the opinions will show that for all intents and purposes, Plessy v. Ferguson has been gutted," he responded. "Whatever way you look at it, the end is in sight."

Marshall was right. In 1951, around eight months after the Sweatt and McLaurin rulings, a Kansas welder named Oliver Brown filed a class-action lawsuit against the Topeka school board on behalf of his third-grade daughter, Linda, who had been denied access to a nearby white elementary school. By the time Brown v. Board

Marshall realized that these colleges would not budge from “separate but equal,” even if it meant spending new money on Black facilities. He would have to push his argument further. So, in April of 1950, he and his NAACP colleagues argued a pair of appeals in the Sweatt and McLaurin cases before the Supreme Court. They emphasized that forced segregation was a violation of the equal protection clause of the 14th Amendment, regardless of the quality of segregated facilities being provided to Black students. “The very fact of segregation establishes a feeling of humiliation and deprivation to the group considered to be inferior,” Marshall’s team argued in their legal brief. Or, as the lawyer himself said in simpler terms during the hearing, “They can build an exact duplicate [of the law school], but if it is segregated, it is unequal.” An onlooker said it was one of Marshall’s most persuasive presentations before the court.

On June 5, the Supreme Court offered its decision. The segregation policies that had kept McLaurin and Sweatt separate from their white classmates would have to be abolished. But the court again sidestepped the thrust of the NAACP's argument: that Plessy v. Ferguson and the “separate but equal” doctrine itself was unconstitutional. “Broader issues have been urged for our consideration,” Chief Justice Fred Vinson wrote in his opinion, “but we adhere to the principle of deciding constitutional questions only in the context of the particular case before the court.”

IN THE FIELD OF PUBLIC EDUCATION, THE DOCTRINE OF 'SEPARATE BUT EQUAL' HAS NO PLACE.

Ada Lois Sipuel, center, at the University of Oklahoma's law school in January 1948. Marshall stands directly behind her, while an admissions officer reads her academic record.

BYLINES

Victor Luckerson is the national correspondent for Smithsonian and author of Built From the Fire.

Hsiao-Ron Cheng is a Taiwanese illustrator and digital artist known for her portraits.

of Education made its way to the Supreme Court in 1952, Marshall had sharpened the arguments he'd first introduced in previous higher-education cases, particularly around the negative psychological effects of segregation on students. When Chief Justice Earl Warren issued his landmark 1954 opinion, he cited several of Marshall's previous cases as relevant precedent: Gaines, Sipuel, Sweatt and McLaurin. The combined weight of those cases, of the lost opportunity these Black students had suffered, was finally enough to force the court to reverse its historic mistake. "In the field of public education, the doctrine of 'separate but equal' has no place," Warren's opinion read.

The Brown v. Board decision was seismic, but it wasn't sudden. The courts slowly ceded ground in each successive decision. And the courageous students never let up, throwing a wrench into the dehumanizing machinery of Jim Crow every chance they got. Progress is often slow and incremental, until it happens all at once.

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TEN YEARS OF INSPIRATION

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LEADERS OF THE PACK

A bustle of innovations, beginning after the Civil War, resulted in this back-to-school standby

UMANS HAVE BEEN carting things on our backs in wraps of some kind at least since we began using tools, around two million years ago—and we have always sought ways to make the load more comfortable. The oldest known backpack ever discov-

ered, in the Alps on the border between Austria and Italy, employed two narrow wooden boards and a hazel rod for a frame. The contraption dates to around 3300 B.C. and is credited to Ötzi the Iceman, a glacier mummy unearthed alongside it in 1991.

But what we recognize as a backpack is much newer. In 1865, Henry Clay Merriam led a regiment of

Details from Henry Clay Merriam's 1878 patent for "useful improvements in knapsacks." The bags featured supports that doubled as tent poles.

Black Union troops in an attack against Fort Blakely, a Confederate stronghold in Alabama. His deeds in this final battle of the Civil War earned him a Medal of Honor “for conspicuous gallantry.” Afterward, the lieutenant colonel had an epiphany: It was burdensome to carry both a knapsack (a pack with shoulder straps but no frame for internal support) and a haversack (a shoulder bag containing his rations). Based on his time carrying gear for the Army, Merriam devised a solution: a boxy canvas pack with room for socks, a quart of water, a shaving kit and a deck of cards, plus a compartment for rations in a case at the bottom. Sheet-metal braces formed the

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THE BROADMOOR

prologue

ORIGINS

bag's frame—and could double as tent poles at night. In his 1878 patent, Merriam explained that the design helped soldiers by “lessening the weight to be carried, and at the same time disposing it more uniformly, and leaving the body of the soldier freer and less hampered by straps and other fastenings.”

The tent poles were especially inventive, but improvements were still to be made. In 1882, Camille Poirier, owner of a shoe shop in Duluth, Minnesota, used a canvas design with a head strap to carry a canoe and pack simultaneously—a priority in the land of 10,000 lakes. He also devised a further strap that held an umbrella to shade hikers. An early advertisement breathlessly urged readers to “hit the trail” with a sack that “has made history in the Northern wilds.” Marketed to the fast-growing number of recreational outdoorsmen, the style proved both popular and enduring—the Poirier, or Duluth, pack is still produced today.

Drawings from Camille Poirier's 1882 patent for a new pack-strap—including sliding pads on the shoulder straps.

Further refinements followed. After Norwegian outdoorsman Ole F. Bergan added a curved metal frame to a backpack in 1909, his country's armed forces adopted his packs, and the legendary Norwegian explorer and mountaineer Roald Amundsen took one on a South Pole expedition. Lloyd F. Nelson drew inspiration from the packs carried by Inuit he encountered while hiking across Alaska to stake a land claim. In 1922, he crafted the original Trapper Nelson, a canvas bag with a detachable wood frame and steel pins.

The modern backpack began to take its true shape in the 1930s, after Gerry Cunningham—a mountaineer who went on to serve with the Tenth Mountain Division—added zippered compartments for easy access while rock climbing. Cunningham switched to manufacturing nylon models in 1967. That

same year, Murray McCory established JanSport with his girlfriend, Jan Lewis, offering nylon packs with lightweight aluminum frames. The skiing and mountaineering packs proved popular with college students looking for a way to keep their books dry in rainy Seattle, where JanSport had set up shop. The lighter frames produced by Cunningham and by JanSport transformed these packs from a mountaineering accessory to an essential back-to-school item.

JanSport, the Seattle company founded in 1967, remains a classic (and ubiquitous) modern pack.

Styles may change—recycled materials and USB charging ports are trending; fans of flair can buy models with a sparkle-and-glitter finish—but the backpack remains invaluable to any and all wanderers. Around 450 million are sold globally each year, roughly the total number of iPods sold anywhere, ever, a stunning testament to the backpack's ability to adapt.

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Mantle of Greatness

One of the most valuable baseball cards in history offers a portal to a golden age

KIDS REALLY IDOLIZED ATHLETES [THEN] IN A WAY THAT PERHAPS WE DON'T TODAY.

”

E STANDS BEFORE a cloudless sky that's more teal than blue, staring off behind you into the distance. He's a hale American teenager outdoors in a Yankees hat, but that background color, like the banana yellow of the bat on his shoulder, feels otherworldly.

Appropriately, a star-lined marquee surrounds his name near the bottom of the image. Mickey Mantle's matinee-idol face glows in the Arizona sun.

The black-and-white photo was taken during spring training in Mantle's rookie season, 1951. Topps Chewing Gum Company colorized and printed it the following year, as the company sought to corner a new market. Early baseball cards were created in the late 19th century by tobacco companies, which inserted cardboard representations of baseball players in their cigarette and loose tobacco packs to help the boxes keep their shape. By the 1930s, companies were producing packs of stand-alone cards that cost 1 cent and included sticks of gum to sweeten the cards' appeal for children. As baseball's popularity grew in the postwar era, Topps saw a growth opportunity. The company began selling its own line of cards and made small innovations that turned these paper advertisements into something a youngster might want to collect and treasure. The company's cards debuted in 1952 with brighter colors and a larger surface area than previous cards, plus team logos and players' statistics on the back. The Topps features remain an industry standard to this day.

This 1952 Mantle card hit stores before Mantle was a household name. And though Topps' first run of cards sold out that year, the majority of Major League Baseball players were released in other groups throughout the season. Sales dwindled, and the final group, which included this image, wasn't a roaring success. Boxes upon boxes of unsold product were returned to a Brooklyn warehouse, where whole sets of cards (Mantle was No. 311 of 407) sat untouched for nearly a decade. In 1960, the company decided it needed the storage space, so a Topps employee reportedly took hundreds of boxes out on a barge and dumped them in the Atlantic Ocean.

Supposedly, the card's resulting scarcity is what made No. 311 so coveted in the years after Mantle became a national hero, later that decade. But scarcity alone doesn't explain why the 1952 card became one of the highest-valued pieces of sports memorabilia in history, selling at auction for a then-record \$12.6 million in 2022. This Mantle card is more than a collectible; it's become a stand-in for the glory years of midcentury baseball and a metonym for midcentury U.S. optimism as much as Gene Kelly's exuberant dancing in 1951's An American in Paris.

More than 1,000 of these cards may exist today, in varying conditions. One well-preserved specimen lives in the Ronald S. Korda Collection of Sports and Trading Cards, at the Smithsonian's National Museum of American History, and curator Eric Jentsch says that No. 311's reputation is a product of cultural timing as much as any innate value: Its price and popularity are a function of the youngsters who created the demand.

"The fans of the 1950s and '60s built the commodities market in the '80s," Jentsch says. "These kids grew up and decided to connect with their childhood or their identities based around their interest in sports." Mantle, a three-time MVP who helped the world's most famous team win seven World Series and was named to 20 All-Star Games, "definitely represents that era in a way that other players don't."

The 1952 Mantle image speaks to nostalgists for other reasons. Jentsch notes that the 1950s was an era of massive transition. Whether by watching movies on television, listening to long-playing records on stereo systems or reading novels as cheap Pocket Books, Americans marked the decade by bringing their interests into their homes and making them part of everyday life. Baseball, too, could now be watched on TV, and before jerseys and hats became common merchandising, Topps cards were the first widespread collectible items for fans.

“That was really a turning point,” Jentsch says. “This audience of children all had this kind of shared experience for the first time” as they studied statistics and traded for their favorite players. You no longer needed to buy a ticket or see a game live to feel like you were part of a community of fans.

Young, handsome and athletic, Mickey Mantle embodied this optimistic age in other ways as well. He was wildly famous and revered—but he predated the intense scrutiny that athletes began to face a generation later. As the decades progressed, Mantle, despite his well-known excesses, came to signify a purer era in sports, a time before corporate ownership, steroid scandals or obsessive media coverage of players' every on- and off-field move.

“I think kids really idolized athletes [then] in a way that perhaps we don’t today, because we all see them as human,” Jentsch says.

And Topps No. 311 remains such a valuable totem not least because it evokes this golden age. It depicts a legendary player still on the cusp of greatness. Mantle played into his late 30s and abused alcohol for decades before dying relatively young, at age 63, but here he is still the picture of youthful potential. He's colorized to electric effect, like John Ford's Technicolor westerns of the time—or like another contemporaneous icon: Superman.

This. Changes. Everything.

A NEW BOOK ARGUES IT WAS THE GOLD RUSH THAT SET MODERNITY INTO MOTION

By Lydia Kiesling

N JANUARY 24, 1848, a carpenter named James Marshall found a nugget of gold while building a mill in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada. This moment started the gold rush that would bring thousands to the territory known as California. In The Rush: California Gold, the Civil War and the Making of the Modern World, the latest book by prolific historian Nathaniel Philbrick, Marshall's discovery is a decisive historical moment, sending a fledgling nation “hurtling toward a reckoning not only with slavery but with its geographic immensity.” (The Smithsonian holds a nugget, above, thought to be the first discovered by Marshall.)

The Rush is built on an enormous body of existing scholarship, and Philbrick synthesizes this research into a lively and accessible narrative. California was a highly disputed land when Marshall made his fateful find, poised to tip the balance between the Union's 15 enslaving and 15 free states. Philbrick neatly evokes the politics, people and technologies that animated the period. He refers to the era's collective technological and cultural accelerations as “the Rush” and invokes this force as the catalyst for events as disparate as the Civil War and the advent of moving pictures.

“Life in California,” Philbrick argues, “could be cruel and unforgiving, but it was also filled with excitement, promise and—if you were a white American—immense freedom.” As Philbrick introduces us to the future barons who planned the Central Pacific line, he also reports on the lives of the Chinese workers who built the railway under intolerable conditions. Alongside politicians who maneuvered the Union into civil war, we meet outsiders who managed to drive events, including Mary Ellen Pleasant, a Black entrepreneur who built a laundry empire in San Francisco and funded abolitionist causes. Reportedly, she even posed as a jockey to travel to Virginia plantations to spread word of John Brown’s planned raid on Harpers Ferry.

As Philbrick describes the era's personalities, vast wealth, racist violence and deep contradictions, he underlines their echoes in our own time. Californians in the 19th century, he writes, “wrestled with a question that Americans are still asking today: Just who are we?” The book’s final chapter, “Palo Alto,” links the events of the rush to the technology boom of Silicon Valley and offers a partial and foreboding answer to the question. “Like it or not,” Philbrick observes, “we are all passengers on a hurtling train.”

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Diego Rivera's private collection of pre-Columbian art at the Anahuacalli Museum, which expanded and reopened in 2021.

OBODY IS ENTIRELY SURE HOW MANY

museums lie hidden in the sprawling megalopolis of Mexico City, but its government counts 171. They range from the high-profile National Museum of Anthropology, which holds the world's largest collection of pre-Columbian items in a superb Modern-

ist structure, to such extravagantly specialized destinations as the Tequila and Mezcal Museum, the Antique Toy Museum and the Mexican Sugar Art Museum. The controversial army-run Museum of Narcotics showcases exhibits related to the Mexican drug war, including golden revolvers and a stuffed drug-sniffing dog; travelers must write in advance seeking rarely granted permission to visit the edgy collection.

What Lies Beneath

A decorative piece of the facade of the calmécac, an ancient school for Aztec aristocrats, opposite page. Left, a sign directs visitors to the basement of the Spanish Cultural Center museum. Below, the archaeological ruins of the calmécac were discovered during reconstruction efforts following an earthquake some 40 years ago. ...

might discover behind closed doors, fleeing the blizzards of New York for eternal spring.

● ● ●

ERCHED 7,350 FEET above sea level and surrounded by volcanoes, Mexico City is bathed in sunshine for most of the year, with daytime temperatures that usually stay

above the 60s. Its vast neighborhoods, home to some 22 million people, now claim the central Valley of Mexico, which was once an interlocking system of lakes and marshy islands that were ruled by the Aztec Empire.

After the Spanish conquered the region in 1521, they set about draining the region's waters and paving over its canals, so that today only one of the original lakes, Xochimilco, remains in the south. As a result, it can be difficult to picture the once-majestic Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan, founded around 1325 on a central

Conservation Champion

Raúl Barrera, director of the Urban Archaeology Program. “There was much more to Aztec culture than violence and human sacrifices,” he says. ...

island with wooden pylons forming parts of its foundation. At its peak, in the early 1500s, the city was home to at least 150,000 inhabitants, and three causeways connected a central area full of pyramids, temples and ritual sites, known as the Sacred Precinct.

On a brilliantly sunny, cloudless morning, I headed over to the revered location, which now rests beneath Mexico City's Historic Center, where the Spanish built their own colonial administrative heart as well as the ornate Metropolitan Cathedral, which still looms over the expansive Zócalo, or main plaza. "The vestiges of Tenochtitlan lie under our feet as we walk," explained Raúl Barrera, who has been the director since 1991 of the Urban Archaeology Program (known by the Spanish acronym PAU), which oversees excavations in the historical center. "This is why we are slowly building a network of underground museums."

After the Spanish conquest, Barrera explained, Hernán Cortés gave the Aztec capital a radical redesign to effectively erase the “barbaric” civilization, with its penchant for human sacrifices. But the idea that the city had vanished was overturned in 1978 when two electricians working near the Zócalo unearthed an eight-ton round stone carving of the moon goddess Coyolxauhqui, prompting further excavations. Today, the base of the Templo Mayor, a step pyramid topped with altars to the Aztec gods of war and rain, is on exhibit inside an adjacent museum where the disc is displayed. And since 1991, PAU has excavated other “rescue sites” found during building construction in the Sacred Precinct, with the eventual aim of opening them to the public.

But to reach three of the most exciting discoveries, Barrera, a bearded, easygoing academic from Oaxaca, asked to meet on Guatemala Street near the Templo Mayor. We entered the modern Hotel Catedral, where desk staff waved as we took a seat in the foyer above the exposed circular foundations of the Temple of Ehecatl-Quetzalcoatl, the Aztec god of the wind, which was unearthed in 2010 during construction of the hotel's garage. A stairwell led down to the remains of an elegantly proportioned, rounded structure and part of a ball court dating from the 1400s, an area scheduled to open as a museum at the end of 2026. (When we visited, a young archaeologist was at work exposing the masonry with a brush.)

Excavation in Mexico City is difficult because moisture still seeps from the original clay lakebeds that Tenochtitlan was built upon. Barrera compared the soft, damp soil to a “giant jelly.” The compacting soil is also why many of the structures built since the

Battle Scene Bullet holes from the Mexican-American War riddle the walls of the National Museum of Interventions, left. Housed in a former monastery, the museum, below, chronicles Mexico's turbulent history. ...

Spanish arrival are “slowly sinking” at a rate of up to 20 inches a year, he added.

Next, Barrera led me a few doors away to the Spanish Cultural Center, a regal 16th-century colonial structure with a basement containing the remains of a calmécac, which was a school for the sons of Aztec nobility. Discovered after a massive 1985 earthquake and open to the public as a museum since 2012, it houses eerily lit displays that include spiral roof decorations, well-used ceramic plates, an engraved human jaw used for religious rituals and spectral foot-

THE LABYRINTHINE SPACE IS FILLED WITH PERSONAL RELICS, PHOTOGRAPHS AND ARTISTIC SCULPTURES OF SOMBRERO-WEARING REBEL HEROES.

prints embedded in stucco floors, as if the Aztec students had just vanished upstairs after classes. Each new site needs a creative engineering solution, Barrera observed, such as reinforcing colonial edifices or designing modern ones like the Hotel Catedral that “float” above Aztec ruins: “We no longer need to knock down buildings to excavate Tenochtitlan. The Aztec world can coexist with the modern.”

The highlight of the subterranean tour was nearby at a restored Spanish mansion that opened last year as (of all things) the Museum of Cacao & Chocolate. As a staff member at the ticket desk nibbled chocolate treats, Barrera peeled away the official PAU seal from an off-limits door to reveal a dusty chamber lit by bare bulbs. Barrera explained that workers had made a sensational discovery in the basement while the museum was being built in 2015: human skulls. Barrera soon realized that this was the famed Huey Tzompantli, where more than 650 craniums of sacrifice victims, ritually cleaned and stripped of flesh, were put on display as a centerpiece of the Sacred Precinct. “When the first skulls were found, we studied the memoirs of conquistadors,” Barrera said. “The soldier Andrés de Tapia left a detailed account of the Huey Tzompantli, describing a long rack with two hollow circular towers at either end. This was definitely it! It was a marvel.”

Barrera led me down a rickety ladder to examine the rows of hollow-eyed skulls embedded in an earthen wall. We then climbed down a second ladder inside one of the two hollow towers of skulls, row upon row gazing at us—an admittedly nightmarish and claustrophobic effect. As we sat in the haunted space, Barrera explained that the Huey Tzompantli remains an active archaeological dig, but there are plans to open it as a museum in the future. “Our first priority is conservation,” he said. It’s an important site of “huge cultural shock,” he added. One of Cortés’ men, Bernal Díaz del Castillo, described in his memoir witnessing human sacrifices at the top of the Templo Mayor.

According to Aztec theology, “the gods needed to feed on blood and human hearts every day,” Barrera said, explaining that the Aztecs believed they were blessed in return. “The sacrifices ensured that the sun rose every day and the crops grew.... It wasn’t just a spectacle of death. It was a temple of life, a place of regeneration.” With that, we climbed back up to the Museum of Cacao & Chocolate, where the staff cheerfully offered us another plate of sweet treats, a surreal contrast to the darkness below.

OR THREE CENTURIES after the 1521 conquest, Spanish rule made Mexico City “the world’s first wholly multicultural place,” writes the his-

torian Paul Gillingham in Mexico: A 500-Year History, with trade routes across the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans establishing it as a “nexus for travelers, migrants and traders from the Americas, Asia, Africa and Europe." In the 19th century, after Mexico's 1821 independence from Spain, French and American forces invaded the country in successive waves, a story recounted at the National Museum of Interventions. Situated since 1981 on a property studded with ancient trees in the dreamily quiet Churubusco monastery, from which resident monks were evicted in 1847 to turn it into a fort, the museum's exterior is still dappled with bullet holes.

My saga continued at the National Museum of the Revolution, devoted to the uprisings that created Mexico's modern constitutional republic between 1857 and 1920. Established in 1986 and recently renovated, it's located beneath a cavernous structure first intended to be part of the Federal Legislative Palace. The labyrinthine space is filled with personal relics, photographs and artistic sculptures of sombrero-wearing rebel heroes, items that recount the stories of flamboyant, romantic figures like Emiliano Zapata and Pancho Villa, both of whom swept through the countryside with guerrilla armies. (Both were assassinated, Zapata in 1919, Villa in 1923.)

The revolution's final success in 1920 led to a creative renaissance, as the government called on Mexican artists to help forge a new national identity based on pride in pre-Columbian civilizations and Indigenous cultures. The artistic pioneer was Diego Rivera, a charismatic figure who, in 1921, returned from a decade studying in Paris to throw himself into a state-funded mural program. His small army of fellow artists, including students and accomplished

Honoring Heroes

The Plaza de la República boasts the Monument to the Revolution, above, the world's tallest memorial arch at 220 feet. It towers above subterranean chambers, left, where war relics are on exhibit in the “Popular Revolution” room.

...

BYLINES

Contributor Tony Perrottet last wrote for the magazine about New York tourism in 1776.

Alicia Vera is an award-winning Mexican American photographer based in Mexico City and Miami.

painters from around the country, elevated the art form and gave it a uniquely Mexican perspective. One of the best places to appreciate their contributions is the Living Museum of Muralism, which opened in 2024 in the former Secretariat of Public Education building, a majestic three-story open-air structure in a 16th-century convent in the Historic Center. Nearly 300 historic murals decorate the walls and arches around ornate courtyards, many by the wildly prolific Rivera, who was a committed Communist, showing Aztec warriors, laboring peasants and greedy capitalists. Murals by Mexico's 21st-century practitioners are also exhibited.

Even so, I found the most exciting “gallery” from the era a few blocks away in the now-run-down Presidente Abelardo L. Rodríguez Market, where murals from the 1930s cover the ceiling and walls. Having read about a second-floor vestibule, I asked a food vendor for directions. She pointed out a dark, unmarked stairwell that led up to a sunny chamber where, beginning in 1935, a 31-year-old Japanese American artist named Isamu Noguchi completed a vast artwork, History Mexico, over eight months. (Five years later, Noguchi would gain fame for News, a relief adorning Rockefeller Center in New York.) History Mexico, a 72-foot-long sculptural frieze made of concrete and black- and red-pigmented cement, depicts socialism's battle with Nazism and capitalism with dynamic shapes of sickles, swastikas and human figures. Noguchi later wrote fondly of his Mexican sojourn, during which time he met (and had a brief affair with) the Surrealist artist Frida Kahlo, who was married to Rivera: Noguchi recalled “the affection that surrounded me, the life of Mexico, the songs of my love. Diego chased me twice with a gun, but fortunately did not shoot.”

Y THEN, IN THE MID-1930S, multicultural Mexico City had cemented its reputation as an exile's paradise, welcoming foreign artists, radicals and refugees. The

city harbored German Jews and activists fleeing the Nazis, Italians fleeing Mussolini, Russians fleeing Stalin, and a veritable who's who of Latin American revolutionaries. Many were followed by spies, assassins and secret police. In the leafy neighborhood of Coyoacán, history buffs can stroll to the Leon Trotsky House Museum, established in 1990 in a fortresslike mansion where the Russian revolutionary attempted to take refuge from Stalin and survived multiple assassination attempts before he was stabbed to death with an ice ax in 1940. The garden still has Trotsky's chicken coops and rabbit hutches;

An Uneasy Exile

A display in the Leon Trotsky House Museum, left, features portraits of the Russian revolutionary from different stages of his life. Below, the office in the house where Trotsky was killed.

a stone stele adorned with a hammer and sickle contain his and his wife's ashes.

Trotsky had fled to Mexico City in 1937, and he, too, had a brief affair with Kahlo, who, with Rivera, was a pillar of the left-wing arts community in Coyoacán, then a rustic village south of the city. The neighborhood today is part of the metropolis's urban sprawl, but it maintains its old-world charm with colorful handicraft markets, verdant plazas lined by cafés and one of Latin America's oldest churches, built atop an Aztec cemetery.

For decades, Coyoacán's main attraction has been Casa Azul, the “Blue House,” where Kahlo was born in 1907, spent her childhood and later lived with Rivera. She died there in 1954. It is one of Mexico City’s most popular tourist sites, with ticket lines routinely stretching around the block, as befits the hometown star who today eclipses her husband: Kahlo’s distinctive image, wearing the traditional embroidered dress and floral headpiece of the Tehuana people of Oaxaca, adorns restaurants and souvenir stores. Exhibitions of her work tour the world’s marquee museums constantly, and in 2025 one self-portrait, The Dream (The Bed), broke the international public auction record for a female artist, selling for \$54.7 million at Sotheby’s New York.

As a result, the opening late last year of the new Kahlo House Museum, also in Coyoacán, was a major cultural event. Known as Casa Roja, the “Red House,” the memorabilia-filled museum epitomizes the capital’s penchant for domestic shrines to historical celebrities, Adán García Fajardo, the museum director, told me. “We Mexicans like heroes. We like warriors. We like sorcerers. We like magic that moves us and great personalities.”

Kahlo qualifies in each of these categories, and her paintings have deeply affected millions. Her art is inseparable from her operatic life story, which was marked by a life-altering accident, a severe illness, a traumatic relationship with Rivera and several tumultuous love affairs. With a focus on her early biography, Casa Roja serves as a complement to Casa Azul. “The Red House is like a prequel to the Blue House,” said María José Camacho, a staff member. “We look at Frida as a person, not just as an artist or Diego’s wife. It completes her story.”

Kahlo's parents moved into the Red House (so named because it had a red door, although its entire exterior has now been painted red) in 1931, and Cristina, Kahlo's younger sister, moved in a few years later with her two children, Isolda and Antonio. “Frida spent the night here whenever she was fighting with Diego, or when she wanted moments of privacy or intimacy,” García Fajardo said, including an 18-month stretch in 1947-48. “It’s believed she came here for romantic trysts with Leon Trotsky and Noguchi.”

What also distinguishes the Red House, Camacho added, is that it remained a family home until recently. Cristina's grandchildren lived there until a few years ago, leaving it filled with private relics that survived through the generations. "The family passed on the archives and artifacts from daughter to daughter to daughter in a chain. The descendants were still living here just three years ago. This is where they had dinners, entertained guests, celebrated birthdays. It

Political Commentary One of several dozen Diego Rivera works at the Living Museum of Muralism, The Orgy—The Night of the Rich portrays the debauchery of the wealthy even as soldiers from the impending revolution loom.

was the family's heart," said Camacho. Curators have cataloged clothes, jewelry, toys, medicines, wedding invitations and scribbled notes from Kahlo.

This wealth of memorabilia is essential to the allure of all house-museums, García Fajardo said: "People can tell when something is not an original; you can almost feel it. We were able to salvage the personal treasures from inside the house. The sheets on the beds are original. The cutlery in the kitchen is original. We even have a pack of Frida's cigarettes."

Casa Roja still feels like a family affair. One of Kahlo's great-great-nieces, Mara de Anda Romeo, narrates the introductory video, which relates Kahlo's childhood, the case of polio at age 6 that left her with a withered leg, and the horrific bus accident that damaged her spine at 18. (The narrations also refer to her

"WE WERE ABLE TO SALVAGE THE PERSONAL TREASURES FROM INSIDE THE HOUSE. WE EVEN HAVE A PACK OF FRIDA'S CIGARETTES."

distinctive uniceja, her unibrow.) Elsewhere in the museum, another great-great-niece, Frida Hentschel Romeo, gives voice to Kahlo's sister Cristina. Many exhibits recount Kahlo's growth as an artist, starting with her close relationship with her father, Guillermo, a Hungarian German immigrant and photographer who produced many striking family portraits, including childhood shots of Kahlo. "Frida's father was very artistic," said García Fajardo. "He wanted to be a painter and loved opera and music—all passions that he passed on to Frida."

During renovations, the interior courtyard was paved for visitor access, and the original grapefruit tree was replaced.

Home, Sweet Home

The kitchen at the Kahlo House Museum, also known as the Casa Roja, is where Frida Kahlo's family resided as recently as three years ago. The new museum offers an intimate look at the artist's everyday surroundings, including dishes, letters and, right, a collection of colorful, embroidered blouses.

(The family had loved the citrus perfume suffusing the house.) Images of grapefruit leaves also adorn the cozy kitchen above a mural of fluttering birds discovered beneath a layer of white paint, possibly done by Kahlo herself. An inscription reads, “El mesón de los gorriones,” “The Sparrows’ Inn.” It’s easy to imagine the family gathering around the table.

Perhaps the most striking space is downstairs, where a small easel stands on a desk in a bare-brick room surrounded by dolls Kahlo shipped home from San Francisco's Chinatown around 1930 because, Camacho told me, she wrote to her sister that they reminded her of Mexico. Standing there,

I felt a satisfying intimacy from encountering the everyday lives of larger-than-life figures, which both demystifies them and makes us appreciate their extraordinary achievements all the more.

HAD A SIMILAR EXPERIENCE in the former home of an acquaintance of Kahlo's, the prolific English-born painter, sculptor and novelist Leonora Carrington. One of a coterie of Surrealist artists who fled Europe for Mexico, Carrington produced nearly a dozen books and more than 2,000 visual works during a long and colorful life—mysterious creations, often hybrid humans and animals, that were once said by contemporary admirer Edward James to have “materialized in a cauldron at the stroke of midnight.”

Carrington's journey to Mexico reads like an adventure novel. In the 1930s, she turned her back on the aristocratic comfort of a conservative Catholic upbringing in Lancashire to study art in Florence and live as a bohemian in Paris, where she became romantically involved with Max Ernst, the German-born pioneer of Dadaism and Surrealism. She narrowly escaped the Nazi invasion in 1940, fleeing to Spain, where she strategically married a Mexican diplomat, then traveled underground to Portugal and New York, eventually finding refuge in Mexico City in 1942. In 1948, Carrington moved into a house in the Roma neighborhood with her new husband, a Hungarian-born photographer, and she remained there for 20 years before moving to the United States. In her last decades, she returned to the Mexico City house to live and work. (Today, the district is filled with CDMX's trendiest cafés, bars and restaurants, but a sense of its quiet charm a few decades ago can be gained from Alfonso Cuarón's Oscar-winning 2018 film, Roma.)

Once obscure, Carrington's artistic reputation has soared since her death in 2011, at age 94. Plans to open her three-story, Bauhaus-inspired abode on Chihuahua Street as a public museum faltered in 2024, but it is now preserved by the Metropolitan Autonomous University as a research center, the Leonora Carrington House Studio. True devotees can visit by appointment (and by paying a hefty \$100 fee). The homey, lived-in rooms have hardly been touched since Carrington died, and they are adorned with original bronze sculptures, creating a mythical bestiary: cats with human faces, a life-size horse with the head of a crescent moon, a crocodile with baby crocodiles riding on its back (a larger version of which can be seen a few blocks away on Insurgentes Avenue). The most intimate space, once again, is the kitchen, with spices still in their racks, a half-smoked cigarette in an ashtray, snapshots stuck casually to the cupboard doors and a dark sculpture of a fantastical beast hunched by the sink.

EXICO CITY REVERES its writers as much as its visual artists. One of the newest and most intriguing literary shrines is the stylish home of Gabri-

el García Márquez, the Colombian-born winner of the Nobel Prize in Literature. The home lies in the affluent southern neighborhood of Jardines del Pedregal (“stone gardens”), where he lived with his family for 39 years, until his death in 2014 at age 87. Gabo, as he is fondly referred to by relatives and fans alike, was by then one of Latin America’s most beloved writers thanks to One Hundred Years of Solitude, the masterwork he wrote in Mexico City in the mid-1960s, and his house on Calle Fuego (“Fire Street”) quickly became a crossroads of the capital’s intellectual life. It was formally opened by the family in 2025 as the Casa de la Literatura Gabriel García Márquez and can be visited by appointment.

"I like to do the house tours myself, although I never say who I am," said Emilia García Elizon-do, García Márquez's 36-year-old granddaughter. "I can offer little insights about Gabo because I'm part of the family. For example, my grandfather only ever sat in this chair," she said, indicating a comfortable-looking white padded recliner. We wandered the cozy living room, which was adorned with oil portraits and bronze busts of García Márquez and his wife, Mercedes Barcha, by artist friends. "After my grandmother died in 2020, we didn't want to sell the family home. It was so

full of memories. It was hard for us to let go, but we had no long-term plan." They sold García Márquez's clothes and donated the money to a children's charity in the Mexican state of Chiapas, then staged small exhibitions before deciding to officially open.

I crossed the manicured garden to the separate study-library to meet one of García Márquez's sons, 64-year-old Gonzalo García Barcha, a mustachioed graphic designer who recalled that his parents loved to entertain celebrated writers, politicians and movie stars in the house. “I remember when Fidel came here,” he mused. “Sean Penn came by with Hollywood people wanting to do a film of The Autumn of the Patriarch,” García Márquez’s 1975 novel about a declining dictator.

García Barcha said that the family envisions the house as a venue for lectures, talks and book club meetings:

"There is a very different atmosphere here than in a curated museum. This is where my parents lived for decades. This is where they died. These are Gabo's books, his office. It was a workplace." The casual presence of literary artifacts was thrilling: The library has the narrow wooden table on which García Márquez wrote One Hundred Years of Solitude (the original manuscript is in the Soumaya Museum

Serene Scene A bright pink wall and reflecting pool at La Cuadra San Cristóbal, a former horse ranch built in the late 1960s and reopened as a museum in 2025.

across town), while the study has the larger desk on which he wrote Love in the Time of Cholera. One wall features a photo portrait of García Márquez by Richard Avedon. Other snapshots show him in 1982, accepting his Nobel in Stockholm, and in the company of American presidents.

Although raised on Colombia's Caribbean coast, García Márquez became in his mature years a wildly popular adopted son in literature-loving Mexico City. “Taxi drivers knew his address,” said García Barcha. “When he died, the street was so crowded with people that friends couldn’t get in for a week.”

THE FINAL ARTISTIC GENIUS I pursued worked in a very different discipline: architecture. Luis Barragán, who emerged in the mid-20th century as the most influential designer in

Latin America, has long been a household name in Mexico City for his unique creations, mixing minimalism and bold colors that evoke a technicolor version of Frank Lloyd Wright. Although he was personally austere, even monk-like in his habits, he is responsible for the city's passion for pink, for example, which is now the color of choice for taxis, metro stations and many houses, the product of his love for the bougainvillea flowers of his home state of Jalisco. Traveling art aficionados now seek his work all over CDMX. Frustratingly, all but one of his masterpieces are privately owned, with byzantine booking rules and eccentric hours.

So it was welcome news in 2025 when La Cuadra San Cristóbal, a majestic 6.7 acre former horse ranch designed by Barragán in the mid-1960s and located far north of the city, was opened to the public. It had been purchased in 2024 by the Fernando Romero Foundation, which is led by the accomplished Mexico City architect Fernando Romero. (His own masterwork is the iconic Soumaya Museum, unveiled in 2011 as a swirl of silver tiles rising like a meringue cake.) In an hourlong taxi ride to La Cuadra, I passed Barragán's imposing Satellite Towers, five concrete obelisks painted in bold primary colors—blue, two white, yellow and red—soaring between 98 and 171 feet above a busy highway. From a narrow back road, I entered the former horse ranch, which, like all of Barragán's sites, is an enclave of serenity blending art and nature, and joined some 100 guests exploring the monumental structures. The geometric pink and white walls interspersed with brilliant blue pools, lush green trees and hypnotic fountains evoke a kaleidoscopic Stonehenge. Within the so-called Secret Garden, Barragán had tied the branches of saplings together so they would grow into tunnels of vegetation; today, they are succulent hideaways worthy of an elven forest.

Romero himself led visitors through La Cuadra's new highlight, a museum exhibition devoted to Barragán's work using his own words ("Barragán on Barragán") accompanied by detailed scale models of each of his creations. The most idiosyncratic of the sites in Mexico City, Romero explained, is also the most eccentric to visit today: the Capuchin Convent Chapel, designed and built by the devoutly Catholic Barragán from 1955 to 1963. The chapel is still part of a functioning nun's residence. Appointments are limited and can be booked only by telephone. Indeed, the first three times I called, nobody picked up. Finally, an elderly nun answered, but she said she couldn't find the appointment register—another nun had misplaced it. Could I call back? Securing a slot took three more attempts.

The challenge only added to the anticipation when I finally stood at 10:30 a.m. on a quiet street in a far southern neighborhood called Tlalpan, ringing the bell at an unmarked wooden portal. Eventually it creaked open, and an octogenarian nun in a black habit peered out at me suspiciously. "You're a half-hour late," she chided, before reluctantly letting me in. She was carrying a wicker tray, where I was to leave my phone (no photos!) and 200 pesos (\$11) in cash. (No credit card capabilities, she told me with a chuckle.)

Even by Mexico City's standards, the convent had an otherworldly air. After introducing herself as Sister María de los Dolores, the nun led me into a compact interior courtyard where a glassy pool reflected a canary-yellow lattice framed by vines. Inside the silent chapel itself, a beam of golden morning sunshine magically lit up the gilded altar, while a minimalist cross cast its shadow on a glowing orange wall. "Barragán played a game with light," Sister María de los Dolores said simply. The chapel's elegant pine decor was

Writing Room

At the Casa de la Literatura Gabriel García Márquez, the author appears in photographs with his family and with luminaries such as Bill Clinton, Kofi Annan and Barack Obama. Below, natural light fills a studio.

unchanged from its 1963 appearance except for a mirror hung in the robe room. “The mother superior wanted to see how she looked when she got dressed,” the sister said with a wry laugh.

Sister María de los Dolores, one of only 11 elderly nuns who live in the convent, recalled that she had met Barragán many times when he came to services here until his death in 1988. “He was very religious and very generous,” she said. “We couldn’t afford a new chapel, so he paid for most of it himself.” Still, she confided, it was not a seamless process: Construction was delayed for two years because of an artistic disagreement between Barragán and the mother superior. “She wanted an arched roof, but he wouldn’t change his design,” according to her story. “Then after she died, the next mother superior said, ‘Let’s finish what we started as soon as we can!’ And they proceeded with Barragán’s plan.”

We ended up back at a desk where the nuns had set up a modest stall selling cookies, honey, eggnog, postcards and souvenir books—cash only.

N MY WAY BACK to the city center, I detoured to a final museum where the artistic strands of Mexico City converged: a fantastical edifice called the Anahuacalli

Museum (“ana-wa-KAH-li”), designed by Rivera in the 1940s to display his private collection of pre-Columbian art. It was a culmination of his lifelong championing of Mexico’s artistic heritage: Rivera had acquired his first Mexican antiquity at age 10 in 1896, when he visited a flea market with his father, and 30 years later he had 60,000 pieces that needed a home. Both he and Kahlo saw Anahuacalli’s first stone CONTINUED ON PAGE 126

Leaping feet, periscope eyes, slinky- shaped nurseries— welcome to the wonderful world of mollusks

LOW TIDE A giant Atlantic cockle lies open on the beach in Fort Myers, Florida, while a beachcomber searches for shells in the background.

WHO DWELLS INA SHELL?

photographs by DEVON MATTHEWS

text by JENNIE ROTHENBERG GRITZ

A seashell is the story of a creature's life,

written line by line. Soft-bodied mollusks protect themselves with crystals of calcium carbonate, adding new layers as they grow. The bands and ridges may reveal changing seasons, diets and life cycles. The shells' many shapes also reflect how different species have evolved over the 500 million years since mollusks first appeared. Back then, their shells were simple caps and coils. Today's mollusks include fanlike scallops, spiny conchs and spiraled nautiluses.

Yet most people who pick up shells on the beach don't give much thought to the animals that made them. "The average citizen will say, 'Well, I thought they were just there,' says José Leal, the science director and curator at the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum, on Sanibel Island, Florida. Leal reminds museumgoers that shells aren't simply formed by the elements the way rocks are. A mollusk absorbs calcium and carbon from the water and fuses the molecules together, generating a rocklike material out of a body part called a mantle. Bivalves—such as clams, oysters, mussels and scallops—encase

A WALK ON THE BEACH

A Florida horse conch extends its large orange foot to creep along the seashore on Sanibel Island. The large sea snail, whose range extends from North Carolina to Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, is a carnivore that feeds on smaller mollusks. It uses its foot to smother its prey, and possibly also to release paralyzing chemicals.

SHELLERS BEWARE

A sign on Sanibel Island reminds visitors not to take home living mollusks. The beach, which hosts hundreds of mollusk species, is one of the world's most popular destinations for shell lovers. The Florida Fish and Wildlife Commission also prohibits the collection of live sand dollars, sea urchins and sea stars.

Patterns may help camouflage, but many mollusks have spotted shells that make them stand out, not blend in.

DIGGING IN

ENEMY TERRAIN A banded tulip lays egg capsules on the back of a live horse conch—a creature that is, oddly, one of its main predators. The tulip's objective is to anchor its eggs to a hard surface so water currents don't wash them away. Her offspring will hatch as larvae and settle to the ocean floor.

CRAB SHACK A hermit crab makes itself at home inside the shell of a pear whelk as other mollusks wander across the top. The crab has its own exoskeleton, which it periodically sheds (and often eats). For full protection, it must seek shelter in larger and harder shells than its own body can provide.

themselves between two hinged shells. Sea snails build a single swirling shell that resembles the top of a soft-serve ice cream cone.

How do these creatures produce such a range of colors and patterns? “That’s the \$64,000 question,” Leal says. The colors are part of a protein matrix that binds the crystals together. Leal’s colleague Suzanne Williams, at the Natural History Museum in London, has studied the pigments—pink and yellow porphyrins, brown and black melanins, orangy carotenoids—and found that certain genes switch the production of certain colors on and off, making dots or stripes. Patterns may help an animal camouflage. But many sand-dwelling mollusks have spotted shells that make them stand out, not blend in. Distinct patterns may help creatures of the same species recognize one another, but mollusks have poor color vision. “We have no idea about many, many things,” Leal says.

By the time people find seashells on the beach, they're usually empty. The mollusks once inside them have shriveled up and died, or have been plucked out by seabirds. The shells are still intricate and beautiful, but the colors often dull when the life inside them is gone. Once the creature dies, the shell becomes like any other object

AN EYE-POPPING SIGHT

The eyes of a Florida fighting conch extend from its shell. The creatures, right and below, belong to a category of mollusks with unusually sharp vision. For extra convenience, their eye stalks can peer over the surface of shallow water like periscopes. When a conch spots a predator, it can leap away on its large foot.

left in the sun and salt water. The crystals begin degrading, and the shell weathers and fades. Some tiny mollusks have clear shells that turn opaque when their inhabitants depart.

Now and then, especially at low tide, a beachgoer might spot a mollusk's living foot emerging from a shell. This long, flexible muscle allows the creature to crawl, dig, swim or grasp prey, depending on the species. Clams use their feet to anchor themselves in the sand. Conchs use theirs to leap across the ocean floor.

"Kids pay way more attention to that stuff," says wildlife photographer Devon Matthews, who traveled to Sanibel Island from his native Minnesota to shoot this story. “But sometimes it’s easy to just walk by things and not really look at them too closely.” Matthews is an experienced macrophotographer—capturing up-close images of tiny insects—and he found innovative ways to photograph mollusks peeking out of their shells, using special camera attachments and natural light. “I think seeing photos of them up close may help evoke some of that wonder again in adults,” he says.

THE CIRCLE OF LIFE A lightning whelk lays up to 20,000 eggs at a time. First, she uses a gland underneath her foot to spool out a long casing with individual capsules inside, like the one on the left. She lays about 200 eggs in each disc, as seen above. Before she swims off, the whelk anchors the whole strand to the ocean floor. Her hatchlings will swim off through small openings.

The island is unusually broad, and currents deposit more than 400 shell species on its 15 miles of beaches.

Leal remembers his own sense of wonder, growing up in Rio de Janeiro. “Back in the late ’50s, early ’60s, that place was paradise,” he says. “There was so much in the way of living things that you cannot see anymore because of human encroachment and water pollution and all that. It was magical, going places on rocky coasts and seeing live crabs and live worms, and the mollusks. I mean, just mind-boggling.”

Leal spent two years as a postdoctoral fellow at the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History in the mid-1990s, studying deep-sea mollusks. Since then, he's been at the museum on Sanibel Island, where much of his work is about educating the public. Sanibel's seashells are a huge tourism draw. The island is unusually broad, running perpendicular to the Florida coast, and currents deposit more than

BYLINES

Minneapolis-based photographer Devon Matthews got his start photographing wildlife on the shores of Lake Superior.

Smithsonian senior editor Jennie Rothenberg Gritz's most recent piece for the magazine was a profile of Georgia O'Keeffe.

400 shell species on its 15 miles of beaches.

When visitors arrive, enthralled by the island's beauty and variety, Leal tells them how important it is to protect the creatures that live there. That means thinking about larger environmental systems. The water is becoming more acidic as carbon from the air sinks into it. That changing chemistry makes it harder for mollusks to form and maintain their thick shells.

Leal also teaches people to avoid taking home living mollusks, which is illegal on Sanibel Island. Tourists are most tempted by iconic larger shells, like tulip snails, horse conchs and lightning whelks. But when they see a foot sticking out—or when the shell feels especially heavy—it’s important to leave the creature in peace. “If you think the shell is cool,” Leal says, “now you know that there is a cool animal that made it.”

KING OF THE BEACH

A crown conch—named for the ring of protruding points at its top—makes its way along the shore at low tide. These mollusks are predators, though they only feast on creatures that move even more slowly than they do. Oysters and clams are favorite food sources. They stay in shallow waters to avoid deep-water creatures that could gobble them up.

THE COLLECTORS

Above, a shell lover looks for treasures in the waters near Sanibel Island. Top, some of the day's finds. The larger shells on the left are an alphabet cone with orange spots, a lace murex and a colorful moon snail. A banded tulip sits in the middle of the two hands, the largest shell in the photo. The tiny shells to the right include a young horse conch and a Florida cone.

Solving the

LONG

COVID

PUZZLE

A sample of cerebrospinal fluid is processed at the University of California, San Francisco, long Covid research lab. Opposite page: Julia Moore Vogel, a prominent long Covid patient-researcher.

by MIKE MARIANI

Photographs by RACHEL BUJALSKI and KATE WARREN

Nearly seven years after the pandemic began, are we finally piecing together how a viral infection becomes a chronic and disabling disease?

ULIA MOORE VOGEL was living with her husband, Bobby, and their 2-year-old daughter in the sun-drenched suburbs of San Diego when the Covid-19 pandemic swept into the United States on commercial airplanes and cruise ships. Vogel, who has both a PhD in computational biology and medicine and an MBA from Cornell University, worked for Scripps Research at its facilities in La Jolla. She cherished her job managing a part of an ambitious study funded by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) known as the All of Us Research Program, which gathers health information from a vast cross-section of Americans—collecting biological samples,

Living With Long Covid Vogel was a project director at Scripps Research when a July 2020 Covid infection left her with debilitating chronic symptoms—one of an estimated 21 million Americans affected by long Covid. Her life and work have been reshaped by the disease. Clockwise from top: Vogel with her mother, Theresa Moore, at her parents' home in upstate New York; Vogel sorts her daily medications and supplements, a constantly evolving combination assembled to manage multiple symptoms; Moore helps Vogel with her wheelchair, which Vogel relies on to ease her extreme physical fatigue.

KATE WARREN (3)

health records and other medical data from nearly 750,000 people that might one day yield treatments for devastating diseases. Her career allowed her to “work at the interface of science and business,” Vogel told me, helping ensure that research discoveries broke through academia to affect drug development and how doctors practiced medicine.

A former college cross-country runner, Vogel spent afternoons jogging through the snaking footpaths of Torrey Pines state park or pushing a stroller around her neighborhood, and she relished weekends playing with her daughter in the sand while her husband surfed the breakers that careered into the shallows off Carmel Valley. “I used to squeeze so much into my days and weeks,” she said.

During the pandemic's first few months, when people were confined to their homes under lockdown orders, schools were closed, and the country was struggling to source N95 masks and ventilators, Vogel and her family were extremely cautious. She only left her home to watch her daughter play outside while her husband went out for groceries. They wore masks everywhere. Nevertheless, one day that summer, Vogel noticed

that she could not taste her morning peppermint tea. Her sense of smell faded, too. She was diagnosed with Covid a few days later. Even now, the exact date she got sick, July 8, 2020, remains impossible for her to forget.

Vogel's infection laid her up with a fever, shortness of breath and intense fatigue. Just as she was expecting to recover, however, in the weeks that followed her body and mind faltered. She felt her energy being sapped away. She had battering migraines that left her reeling in bed, disoriented with pain. She took one week off from her position at Scripps, then another, and then a third. Finally, she returned to remote work in August. But within a few hours, she intuited that something wasn't right. "I was looking at tasks that would normally take me a very short amount of time, and they just felt impossible."

Perhaps 21 million American adults, or more than 8 percent, have experienced symptoms related to long Covid.

Vogel struggled with concentration and memory recall. She found herself mixing up words and phrases in everyday conversation. Perhaps most unsettling, whenever Vogel exerted herself—attending doctors' appointments, taking her daughter to play dates, visiting a local park—her other symptoms grew worse afterward. She eventually learned of others who were similarly suffering—terms like “long-haulers” and “long

Covid" were already in use by May 2020—but clinicians were hesitant about making such diagnoses, as the condition had yet to be fully defined. It was an early sign of the grueling, uphill battle facing long Covid patients. Still, by late August 2020 Vogel strongly suspected that she suffered from this chronic form of Covid, whatever it was.

Most Scripps staff members in La Jolla began returning to a day in her bedroom, a drab refuge where she slept, recovered and worked using a bed-desk that sat atop her mattress.

A researcher by nature and by training, Vogel started stealing what time she could to learn about her condition. She scoured online support groups, read all the scientific papers she could find and devoured the work of journalists like Ed Yong, who were chronicling the emergence of this baffling new condition. At a time when people were dying from Covid at almost unfath-

Inside the Lab

Clockwise from top left: Retrieving biospecimens from a liquid nitrogen storage tank at the long Covid research lab jointly run by UCSF and Zuckerberg San Francisco General Hospital and Trauma Center; Emmanuel Velazquez places a cerebrospinal fluid sample into a centrifuge for processing; the lab's cell counter; biospecimens from the lab's "tissue bank," which holds tissues drawn from the gut, lymph nodes, bone marrow and spinal cord; a box containing cryogenically frozen biospecimens.

the office in March 2021. Vogel, who continued to work remotely, never did. By 2021, she had trouble walking around her neighborhood; by 2022, she avoided stairs for fear that the exertion would leave her bedridden. At 37, she moved with the frailty and deliberativeness of someone twice her age, and she eventually acquired a wheelchair to reduce the burden on her stamina. In two years, she'd gone from a spry scientist and an active wife and mother to somebody who spent 18 hours omable rates—by mid-2022, more than a million Americans had been killed by the virus—long Covid patients struggled to seize the narrative of their arguably less urgent condition from skeptics who accused them of malingering or of psychosomatic afflictions.

In the meantime, long Covid treatment clinics began sprouting up to cater to desperate patients. By 2022, one patient support group, the Covid-19 Longhauler Advocacy Project, had compiled a list of 400 such practices nationwide offering everything from rehabilitation and physical therapy to lifestyle modifications to help manage chronic illness. A handful of major medical centers, including New York's Mount Sinai Hospital, Yale New Haven Hospital and Stanford University, offered more specialized care: Their clinicians embraced an improvisatory treatment approach, making off-label use of antivirals, immune system regulators and anti-inflammatory drugs in the hopes that they might reduce symptoms, if not directly address long Covid's still-mysterious root causes. (To this day, no medications have been approved by the FDA to specifically treat long Covid.)

As patients clamored for the American medical establishment to recognize long Covid's severity and commit resources and expertise to illuminating it, Vogel's boss, renowned molecular scientist Eric Topol, invited her to participate in a landmark scientific literature review of the existing research. The project gave Vogel the opportunity to collaborate with Hannah Davis and Lisa McCorkell, co-founders of an influential cohort of patients working as researchers, scientists and advocates known as the Patient-Led Research Collaborative (PLRC).

The paper that collaboration yielded, “Long Covid: Major Findings, Mechanisms and Recommendations,” published in Nature Reviews Microbiology in January 2023, has since been viewed online two million times, and it has been cited 4,000 times by other scientists, putting it in the top tier of academic papers published that year. Topol told Vogel that it’s among the most cited papers he has worked on during a celebrated five-decade career. Not only did the paper serve as a crucial overview of the first three years of long Covid research, a scattershot landscape that outside researchers struggled to get a handle on, but, according to Vogel, patients also routinely brought copies of the paper to their doctors’ appointments, as a way of substantiating their symptoms and the validity of their disease.

For Vogel, the paper proved to be a valuable professional segue. “Having co-authored such an influential and highly cited article instantly legitimized me as a long Covid researcher,” she told me. And yet, at home, Vogel and her husband were scrambling. Their house was rarely cleaned, with toys strewn on the floor, dirty dishes stacked up in the kitchen, laundry mingling in unwieldy piles. Even after her mother, Theresa Moore, began flying in from upstate New York every other month to help with cooking, cleaning, child care and other chores, the family was overwhelmed. “I was in survival mode all the time,” Vogel recalled.

Since those early days, when nobody knew how long “long-haulers” would be sick, or how many people were suffering, we have gained a much clearer picture of the condition. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s oft-cited, if conceptually broad, definition describes long Covid as a “chronic condition” following a Covid infection that is “present for at least three months as a continuous, relapsing and remitting, or progressive disease state that affects one or more organ systems.” The PLRC and other like-minded groups have outlined more than 200 associ-

Getting the Full Picture

Tim Henrich, a physician and leading long Covid virologist at UCSF. The first step toward solving the puzzle of long Covid, he says, is collecting the pieces. "We have the puzzle pieces basically strewn about the table." But, he says, "I think they're all there."

ated symptoms, including fatigue, muscle weakness, joint pain, sore throat, insomnia, difficulty concentrating, memory issues and post-exertional malaise, a uniquely punishing impairment that exacerbates other symptoms following what were once routine activities. Estimates vary widely about how many people are affected by long Covid, but conservative assessments suggest that perhaps 21 million American adults, or more than 8 percent, have experienced symptoms related to long Covid, and that the illness routinely keeps more than one million adults out of the workforce.

A subset of patients suffers from a severe manifestation of the condition, languishing with chronic pain, cognitive dysfunction and debilitating fatigue. This subset, which includes Vogel, is relatively small: Amy Proal, a microbiologist and a co-founder of PolyBio, a nonprofit dedicated to seeking treatments for chronic conditions associated with infections like Covid, estimates that this extreme form affects perhaps 2 percent of people who get a Covid infection (a figure that could still represent over two million people). But, Proal says, for them it is “totally life-altering”—leaving them not only disabled but also struggling to work or carry out basic chores and often scrabbling to make ends meet.

Organizations like Proal's and the PLRC have been

essential in raising awareness about long Covid and in advancing research into the disease. Their aim has always been to bring more medical researchers into the field, so that scientists can more clearly define the disease by clarifying its pathology and identify biomarkers that doctors can use to definitively diagnose it. And in the past few years, virologists, microbiologists, infectious disease doctors and other medical researchers have answered that call, dedicating themselves to studying this stubbornly opaque condition with increasing success. There is still a ways to go, but the hope is that by tracing the labyrinthine pathways by which this acute viral infection becomes a chronic, multisystem illness, the vital first steps toward understanding long Covid—and to effectively treating it—are within reach.

HE ZUCKERBERG San Francisco General Hospital and Trauma Center is a dense, towering cluster of brick and concrete buildings in the city's Mission District, adjacent to the 101 freeway and less than two miles west of the bay. On a drizzly, overcast week in February, I traveled

there to meet with Michael Peluso, an infectious disease clinician and researcher, and his team at the University of California, San Francisco. The university opened a sleek new facility called Pride Hall on the hospital campus in 2023, and many of its hospital faculty and researchers have their offices and labs in the building.

The researchers knew that infectious diseases are more complex than they at first appear.

The skies were scuffed with gray when I met Peluso and his colleagues in their offices there.

Peluso, a measured, even-keeled scientist with a mop of black hair, dark stubble and brown eyes, runs a program at the university called Long-term Impact of Infection With Novel Coronavirus, abbreviated as LIINC. In its Pride Hall headquarters, the program shares a floor with UCSF researchers working on the NIH's Recover program, which is also investigating long Covid. Peluso began his career studying HIV, probing the virus's complex effects on the brain and nervous system. "I was really interested in understanding how HIV persists in a person's body, what the consequences of that persistence are and whether we can alter that," he told me. He focused specifically on how HIV "viral reservoirs"—remnants of the virus that hid inside tissue cells throughout the body—drove neuroinflammation and vascular damage, among other impacts, and whether helping patients suppress the virus with antiretroviral drugs could alleviate its knock-on effects. "Then, you know, 2020 happened."

When Covid began spreading in San Francisco, Peluso asked his mentor, the distinguished HIV researcher Steven Deeks, to explore whether they could help address the public health crisis. The pair had been running a long-term observational study of HIV patients, but the San Francisco Department of Public Health abruptly paused it amid the city's lockdown measures. With their study on hold and the city under strict stay-at-home orders, Peluso and Deeks devised an idea: What if they repurposed their existing resources and infrastructure—researchers, study protocols, access to state-of-the-art laboratories—to track Covid's long-term impacts? "We had no idea how SARS-CoV-2 was going to affect health," Deeks told me, referring to the specific coronavirus that causes Covid-19. But based on their experience with HIV, the researchers knew that infectious diseases are more complex than they at first appear. "Our assumption was that it was going to have some long-term implications." Peluso said, "There was just something about the speed, scale and severity of SARS-CoV-2 as it emerged that made it clear that it wasn't going to be simple."

Indeed, within the study's first month, in April 2020, Peluso and his team were already meeting patients who reported an uneven recovery, with their strength and vitality nowhere near their pre-illness baseline. In response, Peluso went on, “We brought together clinical researchers like me, epidemiologists, laboratory scientists, biostatisticians and lab medicine people, to try to understand all aspects of the post-acute phase of Covid.” The result was what Deeks believes to be “the first longitudinal cohort of nonhospitalized patients who had Covid.”

The LIINC offices are modern if unremarkable, a maze of

picture; we're looking at multiple pictures that are offsetting."

There are several hypotheses about how the SARS-CoV-2 virus takes root in the body and evolves into the chronic condition we call long Covid, and they are not necessarily mutually exclusive. One is that the body's ongoing effort to eradicate an acute Covid infection can reactivate other latent viruses—the immune system is continuously keeping a host of low-level infections in check—including Epstein-Barr virus and cytomegalovirus. These reactivations, says Proal, of PolyBio, then “spread to new sites and drive more chronic symptoms themselves.”

These responses could explain why the immune system was failing to fully clear the virus from the body.

white cubicles and cluttered desks anchored by an elegant break room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the city's billowing skyline. Peluso and I took an elevator down to the first floor, where a full wing is dedicated to seeing the 2,000 or so patients enrolled in LIINC's large observational study or the program's various long Covid studies: trials testing the effectiveness of monoclonal antibodies as well as drugs such as the antiviral Paxlovid and the rheumatoid arthritis medication baricitinib. Then we trudged through the rain to a neighboring building, where LIINC carries out lumbar punctures, tissue biopsies and other invasive procedures to collect biospecimens for study and experimentation.

In one hallway, we passed a bronze plaque dated July 25, 1983, commemorating “The First AIDS Ward,” where caregivers “gathered to confront a new epidemic.” The hospital was one of the country’s

first to treat HIV/AIDS, and many UCSF clinicians became pioneers in researching the lethal virus, which was killing thousands of gay men in San Francisco at the time. With long Covid, Peluso sees another opportunity for the university and the hospital to serve as trailblazers. “Both research programs emerged from a time of chaos and uncertainty,” he said. “Working in a place that has not been afraid to tackle those types of hard problems amid that uncertainty and having that sort of legacy—that was really important in providing meaning and purpose at the beginning.”

During my trip, I was surprised to find that many researchers said that long Covid could ultimately prove to be a knottier, more elusive disease than HIV/AIDS. Tim Henrich, a translational virologist at UCSF, invoked a daunting analogy to convey its complexity. When Henrich was around 10, his cousins gave him a formidable gift for his birthday. "It was a thousand-piece puzzle," he recalled. Rather than each piece having a fragment of an image on only one side, however, the pieces had the same image, rotated 90 degrees, on the back, requiring that he effectively complete two puzzles at once. "That's like long Covid," Henrich said. "It's not just that we're looking at one

The Human Element UCSF's Long-term Impact of Infection With Novel Coronavirus (LIINC) program has enrolled nearly 2,000 participants in ongoing studies. Clockwise from far left: Emily Fehrman, a LIINC clinical trial manager, weighs a study participant; research coordinator Andhy Zamora prepares an endothelial (blood vessel lining) test; endothelial function data; Zamora performs a blood draw.

A second theory is that the immune system's efforts to combat a lingering Covid infection lead to immunological dysregulation, triggering neuroinflammation and other effects sometimes referred to as sickness behavior. This can leave sufferers feeling perpetually ill as the body's sickness response washes over them in a broken cycle. A third is the notion that the infection disrupts cellular mitochondria, inhibiting their critical role in converting food into energy and powering the cells they inhabit.

Finally, there's a hypothesis that the virus will sometimes burrow into tissues in different parts of the body, creating viral reservoirs that evade the immune system and trigger a cascade of adverse physiological responses. Much of the field has converged on this hypothesis to explain at least some of the pathology of long Covid, in part because early research found compelling evidence of viral persistence in the gut. Moreover, as Peluso explained to me, viral persistence offers the simplest, most straightforward hypothesis: "A pathogen invades, sticks around and causes trouble." This is the area Peluso and his LIINC colleagues are now most focused on.

lieves the field “will need to think much broader—not because I don’t think that viral persistence is an answer, but because it may not be the only answer, or the answer for everyone.”)

Stepping into a large, white antechamber, Henrich and I donned paper gowns, booties, safety glasses and two layers of gloves. Finally, we dropped our phones into zip-top bags. "Don't touch anything," Henrich warned, his arms splayed out and his palms facing up to emphasize the risk. That morning, a LIINC participant had undergone a lumbar

■ ■ ■ They were stunned to find the virus's RNA in the tissue of people who were even years past their initial infection.

Perhaps surprisingly, Peluso was initially skeptical that viral persistence could be a key characteristic of long Covid. "We're really trained to conceive of most pathogens as transient, especially RNA viruses like SARS-CoV-2," he told me. But when Peluso and his colleagues began analyzing tissue from LIINC participants, they were stunned to find the virus's RNA in the tissue of people with long Covid who were months or even years past their initial infection. "It was only when we started to see it in our own program that I began to realize that the truth might be more complicated than what the textbook said," he recalled. "When you're looking at that slide in front of you, it's quite remarkable."

FTER MEETING WITH PELUSO, I went to see some of the program's research in action in Henrich's virology laboratory, one floor below LIINC's operations in Pride Hall. Together with a separate, dedicated repository at UCSF, the lab makes up one of the largest

banks of long Covid biospecimens in the country, and this is where Henrich and his colleagues analyze tissue, fluid and other samples to identify latent SARS-CoV-2 virus and piece together what ill effects those viral reservoirs may cause.

The biobank also operates as a kind of massive “lending library”: LIINC staff correspond with researchers all over the world and send out samples to sustain other studies and experimentation. Among other researchers, the lab has lent specimens to Yale University’s Akiko Iwasaki, who is investigating long Covid autoimmunity and potential tissue damage stemming from infection; the University of Pennsylvania’s Michela Locci, whose team is examining whether SARS-CoV-2 could be altering the immune response in lymphoid tissue; and Irini Sereti, a scientist at the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases who focuses on the specific immunological dysfunctions triggered by SARS-CoV-2, including in T cells. (Although Peluso and his UCSF colleagues focus primarily on viral persistence, Peluso bepuncture, with clinicians using a long, hollow needle to extract a sample of cerebrospinal fluid. Researchers were now transporting that fluid to the lab, a large room with high ceilings and long, narrow rows of benches, each affixed to shelves cluttered with vials, pipettes and biohazard containers. The lab has processed tens of thousands of long Covid tissue specimens drawn from all over the human body, including the gut, lymph nodes, bone marrow and spinal cord. (Thus far, Peluso, Henrich and their colleagues at UCSF have found viral reservoirs only in the gut and bone marrow.)

Once the cerebrospinal fluid was delivered, a tall, broad-shouldered researcher named Emmanuel Velazquez sat down in front of a large metal workspace called a biosafety cabinet to begin processing it. "I know the protocol like the back of my hand," he said. Wearing latex gloves, Velazquez pulled the sample out of a foam container filled with ice and transferred the fluid into a second tube. He then carried it across the room to a centrifuge, where he would "spin down" the sample to remove unwanted proteins, collagen and other biological material that could interfere with the cells.

While the centrifuge whirred quietly, Henrich explained how the LIINC researchers analyze these purified samples to identify signatures of viral persistence, including, for example, telltale antibodies,

proteins or RNA. Like physical evidence at a crime scene, these signatures will hopefully shed light on the sequence of events they believe viral persistence may trigger: inflammation, clotting, neural injury or other harmful physiological responses.

Of course, if viral persistence is shown to cause long Covid, it may represent just the first link in a longer chain reaction. It's possible, even likely, that one or more of the other explanations for long Covid's pathology is also a part of that chain—viral persistence leading to immune dysfunction, for example, which then prompts inflammation or interferes with mitochondria and causes cellular damage. As Peluso put it to me, “If viral persistence is the most upstream mechanism, how does it trigger all of these downstream mechanisms that are thought to contribute to long Covid?”

The centrifuge started gently beeping, signaling that it was finished spinning down the cells. Velazquez pulled open the machine, took out the sample and carried it back to the safety cabinet. There, he used a pipette to distribute the specimen into 20 separate vials, squeezing individual droplets of isolated cells into clear plastic containers. Although routine, transferring specimens requires intense focus and a steady hand. "Do you remember the game Operation, where you try to pick things out without hitting the side?" Henrich joked.

Velazquez squeezed exactly one milliliter of the sample into each vial. The specimens are separated so that LIINC can offer them to other labs; by dividing the samples, Peluso had told me, the lab is able to provide different researchers with the biological material necessary to pursue specific research niches within the larger long Covid field. Over time, Peluso said, this could help yield “a broader set of therapeutic approaches that could be tested beyond just ‘targeting the virus.’”

Finally, Velazquez loaded the samples into a plastic orange rack and transferred them to an industrial freezer, where they fit snugly next to stacks of white boxes blanketed in frost that stored additional LIINC samples. Once the temperature gets low enough, lab members transport the samples to a liquid nitrogen tank that maintains temperatures of around minus 320 degrees Fahrenheit, cryogenically freezing them and allowing Henrich and his colleagues to keep the cells—and the complex biological records concealed within them—alive and ready for further experimentation.

Indeed, in May, a few months after I met Henrich, he presented new research at a long Covid symposium organized by PolyBio, demonstrating what a chain reaction triggered by viral persistence might look like. Using a form of biological analysis known as transcriptomics—which records a snapshot of a cell's RNA molecules at a given moment and reveals which genes are actively turned on and off (possibly by a viral infection)—Henrich showed how the gut tissue of long Covid patients revealed signs of immune dysregulation. Near viral reservoirs, certain immune signals weakened while others were amplified. This suggests that the immune system was detecting the virus but mounting a disordered response to it, possibly because the virus or proteins it released interfered with its defenses. These responses, he argued, could explain not only why the immune system was failing to fully clear the virus from the body but also how its persistence may be causing chronic inflammation.

Virus Hunter Michael Peluso, a UCSF infectious disease clinician, oversees the LIINC study. An HIV specialist when Covid arrived, he shifted his research resources to focus on Covid's long-term impacts.

The findings have yet to be published, and Peluso, a co-author of the paper with Henrich, was careful not to get ahead of the peer-review process. But he did allow that the research represented a meaningful step forward: "It suggests that there is biological activity that is occurring in these spaces that are either allowing these reservoirs to persist or are a consequence of the reservoirs." PolyBio's website goes so far as to describe the new findings, when combined with similar data sets presented by other researchers, as a “major working model of long Covid mechanism—gut viral persistence leading to incomplete clearance and immune dysregulation.”

FEW WEEKS LATER, I traveled to visit Julia Moore Vogel. Despite—and in some perverse way because of—her own deteriorating health, she has emerged as a prominent patient-scientist in the long Covid

field. In 2024, Vogel moved with her husband and daughter to upstate New York to be closer to her parents. Late last year, they bought a house in Schaghticoke, a quiet town of 7,000 hunched on the banks of the Hoosic River. When I pulled up to it, a canary-yellow colonial-style house with white shutters and a center gable framing an ice-glazed roof, the front yard was carpeted in snow.

I met Vogel in her kitchen, and from her wheelchair she led me through her new home and daily routine. Vogel still works at Scripps; her position remains fully remote. While she continues to work on the All of Us study, she is now also an assistant professor at the institute, focused on long Covid, where she works to get drug trials off the ground. “I have felt since 2020 that we need to be doing clinical trials to help people feel better,” she said.

Leading me out of the kitchen and into the dining

Remote Work Vogel, working from bed in up-state New York. She and her family relocated from California in 2024 to be closer to her parents, who help with day-to-day support.

BYLINES

Mike Mariani is the author of What Doesn't Kill Us Makes Us: Who We Become After Tragedy and Trauma.

Rachel Bujalski's documentary photography explores contemporary American culture.

Kate Warren, who teaches photography at Syracuse, is also editorial director of Toolshed, an ecological nonprofit.

room, Vogel pointed to a long wooden table with an iron, fabrics and a small machine with a silver needle plate: an embroidery station. “It’s a really good sedentary thing,” she said. “I make gifts for all my disabled friends that I’ve never met.” In the corner of the room was an elevator, installed after her family purchased the home. Vogel agonized over the decision for months, unnerved by the cost of the project. “I really waffled about it, because it was so expensive,” she told me. “I was like, ‘I really don’t want to spend my emergency fund on this.’ And my dad, who also uses a wheelchair, was like, ‘Julia, this is an emergency.’”

Vogel took the elevator upstairs, and I met her in her bedroom, an unembellished space where she spends most of her day. When we entered, the room was dimly lit—bright lights can induce post-exertional malaise, leaving her with painful migraines. She does most of her work from her mattress, and everything she needs during the day—medications, supplements, tea, notes—are an arm's length from her bed.

Vogel is dogged in maintaining a demanding work life. She runs a clinical trial of her own design that repurposes the GLP-1 receptor agonist tirzepatide to see whether its anti-inflammatory effects can benefit long Covid sufferers. (She has already tried another GLP-1 and found that it wasn't an effective treatment for her, but she is determined to see if the drug class can help others.) The trial is still underway, which means data is not yet available, and

Vogel maintains a grueling professional load—a balancing act that requires her to “ruthlessly prioritize” her days.

because she is a principal investigator, she remains completely blinded, but some participants have anecdotally reported marked improvements in their symptoms, and Vogel is hopeful that the data will bear out their experiences. (A few intrepid physicians already prescribe tirzepatide in an off-label capacity; one, David Kaufman, a leading HIV/AIDS physician and a co-founder, in 2017, of the Center for Complex Diseases, presented survey data last year showing that between 60 and 90 percent of patients responded positively to small doses of GLP-1.)

Vogel's trial is one of around 90 long Covid drug trials that are underway or have concluded worldwide. (The NIH is also tracking hundreds of other trials that focus primarily on behavioral treatments such as diet and exercise.) In addition to studies of Paxlovid and baricitinib, which have yet to show convincing evidence that either is an effective treatment for long Covid, researchers are examining a range of other existing medications, including the diabetes

A Path Forward A LIINC participant departs after testing at the San Francisco hospital. Peluso says, “Seeing people from the beginning whose lives were really disrupted by this, I really wanted to understand what was causing this for them, and I really wanted to try to help them get better.”

drug metformin (meant to improve metabolic energy) and the antidepressant fluvoxamine (which has reduced fatigue in some patients). The heart disease drug ivabradine, meanwhile, failed to improve dizziness and fatigue in patients who developed heart problems after a Covid infection. Another study, which is expected to begin this fall, will investigate whether a combination of repurposed HIV and cholesterol drugs, maraviroc and atorvastatin, can improve both physical and neurocognitive symptoms, including brain fog, fatigue, dizziness and indigestion. At least one cancer-fighting biologic therapy, known as Anktiva, which may boost immune response, is in safety trials at UCSF. And Proal, Peluso and other researchers are working with a small pharmaceutical company called Invivyd to see if its experimental monoclonal antibody, which can neutralize diverse Covid variants, might be an effective treatment for long Covid. "It's one of the most anticipated trials from both CONTINUED ON PAGE 124

A Flair for the Dramatic

Known for its elaborate courtship ritual, the white-headed duck is a conservation icon in Spain. Elsewhere, it's fighting for a second act

FROM THEIR WHISK-BROOM tails to males' bright sky-blue bills, white-headed ducks are among the oddest in the world. Mild-mannered outside of breeding season, they star in a spectacular springtime courtship display in the wetlands of Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and Central Asia. Come spring, males perform a series of intricate dances that include sideways swimming, exuberant splashing and beating their puffed-up neck feathers with their bills to produce bubble trails. Their exceptionally long and stiff tail feathers are part of the show, waving like flags, spreading like fans and slapping the water like paddles. "To witness white-headed ducks in courtship is to watch one of the avian world's most extraordinary performances," says Nicky Petkov, a waterfowl expert with both the Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds and BirdLife International, an arm of the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

In Spain, white-headed ducks also star in a spectacular conservation success story. Decades of draining wetlands for agriculture and development in the past century shrank habitat and tanked numbers across the ducks' range. Hunting took a further toll on the global population, which had been estimated at some 100,000 in the 1930s. By the late 1970s, most European populations had gone extinct, and in Spain, only 22 birds remained at a single location. That shocking tally launched a national campaign to restore and protect wetlands, improve water management, and ban hunting. Spain's white-headed duck population has now rebounded to some 2,500 and expanded across the country.

Elsewhere, however, the story isn't as upbeat. Globally, the species continues to decline and is listed as endangered on the IUCN Red List. Sizable populations in the eastern part of the duck's range receive little protection. Pollution, water loss and other effects of human activities continue to destroy their habitats. What's more, another threat has emerged: ruddy ducks. photograph by Javier Aznar González de Rueda

Specimens of this invasive American species escaped from a British wildlife reserve and spread eastward. Reaching Spain's white-headed duck breeding grounds in the 1980s, the aggressive foreigners beat out native males for mates. By the early 1990s, fertile hybrids proved as dominant as their ruddy duck progenitors—raising fears that interbreeding would drive white-headed ducks to genetic extinction. In Western Europe, a ruddy duck cull campaign now has the hybridization threat under control. However, the risk of recurrence remains.

Although white-headed ducks have made a heartening comeback in the west, their future depends on preserving wetlands throughout their range. A new multinational initiative began this fall in southeastern Europe, the eastern Mediterranean and Central Asia to expand that effort. Meanwhile, climate change and increasing droughts put wetlands worldwide at risk of drying out.

"Describing the white-headed duck as a conservation success story requires an important caveat," Petkov cautions. "The story is not finished." – CHERYL KATZ

HEROES OF THE WILD

The white-headed duck is "one of the true eccentrics of the waterfowl world because almost everything about it seems unusual," says waterfowl expert Nicky Petkov.

Welcome to

by RICHARD GRANT

photographs by HOUSTON COFIELD

SOUTHERN 0 CLUB

SOUTHERN CLUB

Hot Springs

Long before Las Vegas, it was a

gangsters' paradise. Now an Arkansas

spa town's history is coming back to life

A vintage roulette wheel serves as a makeshift dining table in the Ohio Club, established in 1905 in Hot Springs.

LIFE-SIZE STATUE OF

infamous Chicago gangster Al Capone, sitting outside

Al Capone, sitting outside a downtown bar with a cigar in his hand, surprises many first-time visitors to Hot Springs, Arkansas. Even Arkansans have largely forgotten that this attractive spa town was America's original Sin City, teeming with casinos and brothels, and frequented by big-name gangsters. The mobster Bugsy Siegel may have even used Hot Springs as an inspiration when he was developing the Las Vegas Strip.

The leading authority on the town's colorful, decadent, sinful history (it was known as “the loose buckle in the Bible Belt”) is a charismatic, white-haired, sharp-dressed man named Robert K. Raines. A former rock singer and computer salesman, he has written a book and made several short documentaries about vice and organized crime in Hot Springs. He’s also the founder and director of the Gangster Museum of America, in the heart of the historic district. I meet him in the lobby bar of the grand old Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa on Central Avenue, where Capone would rent out the entire fourth floor for his entourage and stay for weeks at a time.

In 1931, Las Vegas had a population of around 5,000 and no resorts, Raines says. "In 1931, Hot Springs had a population of around 20,000 and several high-rise hotels. It had wide-open gambling, which was illegal in Arkansas; wide-open prostitution; and all the bootleg liquor anyone would ever need.... The gangsters loved coming down here because they could relax, have a good time and not worry about getting arrested, because all the cops were paid off."

E'RE JOINED by a semiretired attorney named Q. Byrum Hurst Jr. His father, Q. Byrum Hurst Sr., was a Hot Springs lawyer who represented underworld figures like Team-

sters President Jimmy Hoffa. He served 22 years as an Arkansas state senator and ran for governor, battling to preserve gambling in his hometown. "My dad came from a good church family and never gambled himself, but he saw that gambling was an essential part of the economy here, and the town would suffer if it was stopped," Hurst says.

"The mayor, the judge, the city council, the state governor, the legislature, even the churches in Hot Springs were getting a cut," Raines says.

Some of the most prominent gangsters who frequented Hot Springs were New York kingpin Charles “Lucky” Luciano, his associate Meyer Lansky, Benjamin “Bugsy” Siegel and Alphonse Gabriel “Al” Capone, the infamous head of the Chicago mob. The latter often stayed in the same room here at the Arlington—Room 443, now the Al Capone Suite—and often drank at the lobby bar where we’re sitting. Raines has a photograph of Capone with his two brothers, wearing sombreros and riding donkeys at the Happy Hollow Amusement Park, a short walk from the Arlington.

Capone was seen all around town. He went to the racetrack, played golf and kept a fishing cabin on the Ouachita River. Sometimes he would ship his green, armored 1928 Cadillac on the train to Hot Springs, so he could ride around in style. In 2008, Raines was thrilled to get that car on loan from a collection in Houston and display it in the Arlington

"OH, MY GOD... IF HE KNEW I WAS TALKING TO YOU, HE'D ROLL RIGHT DOWN HERE AND KILL ME NOW."

Coffee Shop Open 24 Hours Except Sundays

lobby for two years, before it was sold at auction.

As Hurst points out, the gangsters who came to Hot Springs were armed, violent, dangerous men, and some of them belonged to criminal organizations that were warring with one another in the big cities. “But no one ever got shot in Hot Springs, and that was the agreement,” he says. “The organized crime figures were welcome to keep coming here so long as they didn’t make any trouble.” Frank Costello, Luciano’s consigliere in the New York crime syndicate, was a regular visitor for 25 years.

In addition to underworld luminaries, Hot Springs attracted entertainers, athletes, movie stars, politicians and captains of industry—and they all stayed at the Arlington, right alongside the gangsters. It was the biggest, most luxurious hotel in town, with close to 500 rooms, a 15-piece orchestra in the ballroom every night and a satellite New York Stock Exchange.

The movie stars included Rudolph Valentino, Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe. Duke Ellington, Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett performed in the clubs. The New York Highlanders (who later became the Yankees) and Red Sox baseball teams came to Hot Springs for spring

PORTAL TO THE PAST Left, a door inside the Vapors, a nightclub established in Hot Springs in the 1960s. Below, old celluloid bingo balls are among the gambling items held by the Gangster Museum.

training, and Babe Ruth loved the town because it catered to three of his biggest enthusiasms: gambling, prostitutes and whiskey. Business tycoons Andrew Carnegie and F.W. Woolworth visited Hot Springs, and so did presidents Franklin Roosevelt and Harry Truman. “There’s no doubt that J. Edgar Hoover would have briefed any president on the mobsters and illegal activity,” Raines says. “I think the presidents just decided to rest and relax while they were here.” Today, the historic downtown and its approximately 8,500-square-foot Gangster Museum offer a surprising portal to that decadent and intoxicating era.

HEN RAINES FIRST arrived in Hot Springs in 2007, to help a friend establish a business downtown, he knew nothing of its history. He would hear little whispers and ru-

mors and became intrigued. Then he started asking questions about gangsters, illegal gambling and corruption, and people refused to talk about it. “It was a secret they were so used to keeping,” he says. “So I started going through the old newspaper archives, and what I found there just astounded me.”

In 1807, the first permanent white settlers arrived in what would become Hot Springs and began to build a town for visitors who might want to bathe in the mineral-rich thermal waters emerging from the ground. After the Civil War, Hot Springs transformed from something of a backwater into a swanky resort town with grand hotels, theaters, fine-dining restaurants and an opera house alongside casinos, bordellos and drinking clubs. A madam named Grace Goldstein operated the Hatterie Hotel adjacent to the Arlington; it was favored by professional gamblers and outlaws. Madam Josephine Belmont's house, meanwhile, catered to baseball players during spring training, while Evelyn Anderson ran the Pigley Rooms and Mama Carrie built her business on the jazz musicians and wealthy African American businessmen who came to Hot Springs.

MAN ABOUT TOWN

Below, a baton that once belonged to Al Capone is displayed at the Ohio Club. Right, a sculpture of Capone graces the interior of the town's Gangster Museum. Bottom, the mobster frequented this plush corner room on the fourth floor of the Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa; it's still known as the Al Capone Suite.

Prohibition went into effect in 1920, acting like an economic stimulus package. North of town was a rural, mountainous area known as the Possum Kingdom, where moonshiners had long distilled a pure and distinctive corn liquor known as “clear,” because it was colorless and made with mountain spring water. Now there was an exploding demand for their product in Hot Springs and farther afield.

Capone, who always needed inventory for his bootlegging empire, may well have gone into business with the Possum Kingdom moonshiners, Raines says. Some sources claim Capone may have had a distilling operation of his own at the Belvedere Dairy. Patrick Layton, a local tour guide, says that like many locals, his grandfather made moonshine for Capone and that the local police would guard the shipment and help load it onto the train cars.

The town reached a spectacular level of corruption when Mayor Leo McLaughlin took office in 1927. Everyone thought he was a lawyer, because he had a law office and had practiced law for decades; in fact, he'd attended college for two weeks, and there's no record of him passing the bar in Arkansas or anywhere else. With the assistance of a crooked judge, “Mayor Leo,” as he was known, ran Hot Springs like a venal, silver-tongued dictator for the next 20 years. He rode around town in a buggy pulled by two bay horses named Scotch and Soda.

McLaughlin protected the gangsters and built a political machine so powerful that only one candidate ever challenged him. The machine was fueled with “amusement tax” payments from more than 100 illegal businesses and enforced its will by the usual methods: greasing palms, bestowing and withdrawing favors, manipulating the legal system, and intimidation. “If you bucked the machine, there was a fairly

high likelihood that your business was going to catch on fire," Raines says. "Apart from that, the town was very safe, with very little crime. It was totally corrupt, but people didn't think of it as being corrupt. Everyone was making money, so where's the problem?"

According to Raines, it was common knowledge that Orval Faubus, the governor of Arkansas from 1955 to 1967, sent a car to Hot Springs with a drop safe in the trunk to collect his monthly payments. The driver would go to lunch in a restaurant and leave the trunk open. Representatives from casinos, gambling clubs and houses of ill repute would drop their packages of money into the safe. After lunch, the driver would close the trunk and drive back to the governor's office in Little Rock. If he was questioned, he could honestly say, "I never saw a payoff." Though Faubus denied ever receiving any payments, Faubus' biographer, Roy Reed, has said, "The money was picked up [in Hot Springs] every Saturday night by a high state official,

stowed in a black bag and delivered to Little Rock." Raines says when Faubus was challenged to do something about the rampant illegal activity in Hot Springs, he would say it was a local problem and should be investigated by local police. Savvy people in Arkansas knew that was never going to happen.

As Raines collected this history, he gradually built trust with some of the old-timers in Hot Springs. He opened his first small museum, and they started giving him tidbits and then videotaped interviews. Raines would edit his short films to include what they'd revealed and make sure they approved the final product.

Once, in a nursing home, he was interviewing an elderly man in a wheelchair. The man had been a dealer at the Southern Club, a premier gambling venue that Capone frequented to play poker. At one point in the interview, the man became suddenly alarmed. He said to Raines, “Oh, my God, there’s a guy in Hall C. If he knew I was talking to you, he’d roll right down here and kill me now.” No matter that both men were in their 90s, that the political machine was long gone, that the big-time gangsters were dead. The old code—keep your mouth shut or pay with your life—still exerted a powerful hold over them.

Raines, a tireless researcher driven by obsessive curiosity, has combed through thousands of FBI files about Hot Springs. He has interviewed and struck up a friendship with Capone's great-niece Deirdre Capone, who donated various family photographs to the museum. Raines is on similarly good terms with Lansky's grandson, who shared what he knew about his grandfather's time in Hot Springs. In 2013, Raines published a book of popular history called Hot Springs: From Capone to Costello. A few photographs from the book are on display at the museum.

Robert K. Raines, founder and director of the Gangster Museum of America, is one of Hot Springs' experts on the town's colorful history of gangsters and gambling.

His current project is a biography of the underworld figure who intrigues him most of all. Owen “Oney” Madden

was the only gangster who made Hot Springs his permanent home. “People here loved him,” says Raines. “They knew him as this polite, soft-spoken Englishman who gave generously to charitable causes. They found it hard to believe that he had been a notorious gangster.”

Madden was born in 1891 to Irish parents living in Leeds, England. Around age 11, he moved to Hell's Kitchen in New York and eventually joined a street gang. At 21, he was the leader of the Gopher Gang and nicknamed "The Killer." Madden was locked up in Sing Sing prison for ordering a hit on a member of another gang and was paroled after nine years for good behavior.

“Then he got into bootlegging, racketeering, thoroughbred racetracks, managing prize fighters, laundries and nightclubs,” says Raines. “George Raft drove beer trucks for him, and when [Raft] became an actor, he based his gangster characters on Owney Madden. Mae West was one of Madden’s girlfriends, and she said he was ‘sweet, but oh so vicious.’

The Arlington Resort Hotel & Spa offers mountain views and was patronized by many of America's most notorious gangsters.

McClard's Bar-B-Q Restaurant, which opened in 1928, is located just outside of downtown. It's still operated by descendants of the founders.

BYLINES

Richard Grant is a frequent contributor to Smithsonian. His most recent book is A Race to the Bottom of Crazy.

Photographer Houston Cofield's portraits have appeared in the New York Times Magazine and many others.

Everyone was afraid of him because he had a psychotic streak and he was a killer.”

Madden owned the famous Cotton Club in Harlem and muscled his way into part-ownership of a variety of other nightclubs. In 1935, seeking a quieter way of living, he relocated to Hot Springs, which he'd visited a few times. Leaving his rowdy ways behind him, he married the postmaster's daughter and settled into a comfortable life. "He played golf at the country club, went to the Buckstaff Bathhouse and the Maurice almost every day, spent time with other gangsters at the Southern Club, and made sure everyone behaved themselves," Raines says. "He was close with the mayor and helped him organize a larger and more discreet system of payoffs."

Madden lived the last 30 years of his life in Hot Springs, and one of his closest friends was his attorney—none other than State Senator Q. Byrum Hurst Sr. “They genuinely liked each other,” says Hurst Jr. “My dad gave the eulogy at Oney’s funeral.”

That was in 1965, and two years later, the long and immensely profitable era of illegal gambling came to an end. A new governor—Winthrop Rockefeller, son of philanthropist John D. Rockefeller Jr. and brother

PERMANENT RESIDENT Lower left, Owen “Onewy” Madden, a.k.a. “The Killer,” was a notorious Eng- lish American gangster who relocated from New York to Hot Springs, where he lived in the house below.

of New York Governor Nelson Rockefeller—took office. Though he’d reportedly promised Hurst Sr. and many other legislators that he would sign a bill legalizing gambling, he then broke his word and vetoed the bill. Soon afterward, the state police raided all the gambling clubs and casinos in Hot Springs. They went so far as to smash up, burn and bury the roulette wheels and other gaming equipment, but made no arrests and confiscated no money from the casino counting rooms, which contained millions of dollars. “That was the deal,” says Raines. “We’re going to end this thing, but you get to keep your money.”

As Hurst Sr. had predicted, once illicit gambling disappeared, Hot Springs fell into a steep decline and nearly went bust. All across the downtown, more and more storefronts were boarded up. All but one of the bathhouses went out of business.

"PEOPLE HERE LOVED HIM.... THEY FOUND IT HARD TO BELIEVE THAT HE HAD BEEN A NOTORIOUS GANGSTER."

The city didn't even turn on all the streetlights at the same time, and the community began to pine for the good old days. Finally, in the early 2000s, a group of young reformers came together and made a concerted effort to save the town. They started by increasing the local sales tax, which enabled building and rebuilding projects. Progress led to more progress, and now Hot Springs is prospering again as a tourism and retirement destination. An estimated 38,000 people live there today, enjoying an affordable cost of living, a relaxing spa-town culture and an architecturally diverse downtown where a row of historic bathhouses is enclosed within Hot Springs National Park. At some of them, you can still treat yourself to an atmospheric soak in the thermal spring waters.

The Oaklawn racetrack, which was a draw in Capone's day, now has an upscale resort and a legal casino. On Central Avenue, you can admire the old buildings, shop for clothes and souvenirs, and sip a cocktail at the beautifully preserved Ohio Club, which Capone, Siegel, Luciano and Ruth frequented, and where Al Jolson and Mae West performed. You can get your photograph taken with the Capone statue on a park bench outside the club, then stroll down the street to visit the Gangster Museum of America. Featuring eight galleries with guided tours and audiovisual displays, the museum tells the story of how the country's most notorious criminals were able to congregate peacefully in a small spa town in the Ouachita Mountains of central Arkansas.

Raines, standing in the gift shop by a display of fedoras, poses a cheeky question: "What do you call the economy of a town that was making millions from gambling and prostitution in a state where both of these activities were against the law? You might call it illegal, or blatantly corrupt. We called it tourism."

ROOM

AFRICAN WILD DOGS ARE ENDANGERED AND MISUNDERSTOOD. A BOLD NEW EFFORT IS GIVING THEM SPACE TO SURVIVE

ROAM

A pair of African wild dogs at Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, the largest privately owned nature reserve in South Africa, near the Botswana border.

by HELEN SULLIVAN — photographs by MARCUS WESTBERG

WO WHITE PICKUP TRUCKS ARE parked beside a highway that cuts through the Waterberg, a South African municipality three hours from Johannesburg. Passing the trucks on foot, you might hear something that makes you stop: Their cargo is panting. Just visible through the holes at the top of three green wooden crates is fur over rib cages, mottled black, white and gold, rising and falling.

The three sleeping female African wild dogs, sisters, have traveled a long way in the past few weeks, even by the standards of their species, which can cover 30 miles a day and occupy ranges of 1,000 miles. They arrived by plane from Karingani Game Reserve in Mozambique, courtesy of the Endangered Wildlife Trust's African wild dog range expansion program. The project, which started in 1997, has increased the world's wild dog population by more than 344 in 29 years. It introduces dogs to wildlife reserves in countries where they haven't been seen in decades—for instance, Mozambique, where the species disappeared during a civil war that lasted from 1977 to 1992. The Mozambican packs have bred so successfully that the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT) is now bringing young dogs to South Africa to form new, genetically diverse packs here. The three sisters have been darted with sedatives, a risky but necessary step in moving them to their new home for the next few weeks—a state-of-the-art enclosure, or boma, the first designed specifically to hold their species—before they're released, with tracking collars, into the wild.

The sisters represent a not insignificant portion of 6,600 African wild dogs left in the world. According to the World Wildlife Fund, the animals are among the world's most endangered. Also known as Cape hunting or painted dogs, they resemble large, gangly mongrels with extremities picked from a safari odds-and-ends bin: big, disc-shaped black ears, large paws on skinny legs and fluffy white tails. Each dog's fur has a clearly unique pattern of black, gold and white splotches—more Abstract Impressionist than

A LIFE-SAVING SHOT

Below, Jana Pauwels, a veterinarian working with the Endangered Wildlife Trust, positions herself to tranquilize an African wild dog in an enclosure. Right, EWT workers Joseph Hlako and Eugene Greyling carry a sedated dog to the truck so it can be relocated, collared and then released into the wild.

WILD DOGS ALLOW THEIR PUPS TO FEED FIRST, A NEAR-UNIQUE BEHAVIOR AMONG ANIMALS.

the designs that cover snakes, zebras or leopards.

Wild dogs are the most successful hunters in Africa, with a kill rate of 80 percent. Lions, by comparison, kill just 30 percent of what they hunt. The dogs' superpower is also part of the reason they are so threatened. Owners of many private game reserves would rather kill them than lose expensive game. Subsistence farmers feel the same

way about their livestock. A 2021 study published in Ecology and Evolution showed that human causes—including direct killing and diseases from domestic dogs—accounted for 44 percent of all wild dog deaths at study sites in Kenya, Botswana and Zimbabwe over a 15-year period. A lack of continuity between areas where the dogs are welcome means that without intervention, they struggle to find mates.

But there is much to love about the most hated carnivore in Africa. Ask a wild dog enthusiast what they enjoy the most, and they will likely say it is the dogs' playfulness. Briana Abrahms, who researches wild dogs in Botswana, has seen the pups "bat around balls of elephant dung like a football." Neil Jordan, a biologist at the University of New South Wales in Australia, discovered that wild

dogs are one of the few species on Earth that appear to vote. Before departing on a hunt, the animals hold “rallies”: At dusk, one or two will stand up after resting in the heat and pull their ears back, pretending to stalk prey. They’ll make strange, strangled barks and chittering noises, curling their tongues, playing with one another and urinating.

"And then they kind of snowball socially, so then more get involved, and more get involved. It's like a big merry-go-round, and they're all running around crazy," Jordan says. Typically they'll do this once, then lie back down, then again, then lie back down. Only when they emit "rapid nasal exhalations," or sneezes, will they actually depart. ("We still don't know for sure whether the dogs are

SLEEPING BEAUTY

Hlako checks on one of the sedated dogs shortly after its capture. The newest EWT crates are outfitted with temperature gauges and solar-powered cameras for remote monitoring.

using that, or it just happens to be occurring around the same time as they're signaling their intention to move in another way," Jordan emphasizes.) Wild dogs also allow their pups to feed first, near-unique behavior among animals, says Jordan. When a member of the pack is injured or sick or heavily pregnant and can't join a hunt, another dog will regurgitate food for it. Wild dogs look out for one another.

WHILE THE SISTERS DOZE in the trucks, I take a seat in a hut nearby with Eugene Greyling, one of the EWT field officers transporting the dogs. We're sitting at the entrance to the

Welgevonden Game Reserve, which houses the enclosure that will temporarily contain the dogs. South Africa has four main wild dog populations. The first is in captivity in private zoos. Then there is the population in Kruger National Park, which is the only place in the country with enough dogs to maintain

THE SISTERS STAND TOGETHER IN A GRASSY AREA AND LIE DOWN UNDER A THORN TREE; IT HAS BEEN A LONG DAY.

THE RIDE Trucks carry the sedated wild dogs to Welgevonden Game Reserve. Born in Mozambique, they are being relocated to a region known as the Waterberg, one of the world's last havens for their species.

FRESH START Hlako and Greyling release one of the dogs at Welgevonden. The reserve hosts around 65 types of mammals, including the "Big Five" safari animals: lions, leopards, African elephants, rhinoceroses and Cape buffaloes.

themselves genetically. The third is the free-ranging population, roaming across a patchwork of private and public lands in the Waterberg. Finally, there is a “meta population,” whose members are tracked as they travel through nature reserves such as Welgevonden or the Tswalu Kalahari Reserve, South Africa’s largest privately owned nature reserve. EWT works with the reserves to create new, genetically diverse packs and expand their range.

Wild dog packs, which consist of between 5 and 20 individuals, have complicated social structures, says Greyling. At the top is the alpha female. She and the alpha male are the only dogs in the pack who breed. In order for populations to grow, dogs must form new packs. A group of sisters will set off in one direction in search of males from another pack, while a group of brothers does the same in a different direction. The EWT carefully monitors dispersal and the packs' genetics. The lack of continuity between ranges means the animals are likely to get stuck without a mate. Conservationists can't afford to let sleeping dogs lie.

The three sisters in the truck, for example, had found males back in Mozambique who were too closely related. “We had to think hard about how to manage that, because technically the dogs had done everything right,” says Cole du Plessis, who coordinates the range-expansion project. “If you told people 20 years ago that we were going to be flying wild dogs under sedation to other countries—it’s just quite crazy.”

At Welgevonden, Greyling and I are joined in the hut by Reilly Mooney, a biologist and the director of the Waterberg Wild Dog Initiative. Mooney has traveled farther than the dogs: She came from Wisconsin to South Africa, originally to study primates. During the Covid-19 pandemic, her regular research shut down and she attended a community meeting about free-roaming dogs that had been mostly left to their own devices. "It was a very volatile situation," Mooney says. Locals were calling for someone to bridge the gap between communities and conservationists, and Mooney was the right person for the job. The first thing on her to-do list was to find out how many dogs there were. Their coats made them relatively easy to identify and

NEW DIGS

A wild dog in the new boma, or enclosure, at Welgevonden. Its large ears help it communicate in the pack, detect approaching prey and release body heat in a region where temperatures can exceed 100 degrees Fahrenheit.

BYLINES

Australian journalist Helen Sullivan last wrote for Smithsonian about orangutans in Borneo.

Marcus Westberg is the board chair of the International League of Conservation Photographers.

keep track of. “We can say with pretty good confidence that in this entire Waterberg area, there are only 27 wild dogs,” she says.

IN THE HUT, Greyling gets a call from Joseph Hlako, his colleague at the EWT who has been keeping an eye on the sleeping dogs. Hlako, the EWT's conflict mitigation officer, grew up in the area and has family who farm. He speaks Northern Sotho, among other South African languages, and has an insider's knowledge about what will and won't work when it comes to dogs and people. Building trust and maintaining relationships make the biggest factor, he says. "And, you know, a familiar face works better than any face."

After Greyling leaves the hut, he drives back past us: One of the dogs seems to be overheating, he says. He wants to get her to the enclosure right away and cool her down. Mooney and I jump into her car and follow Greyling. We cross the highway, passing cattle and thick bushland until we come to the boma: a couple of shipping containers and a fence.

It doesn't seem like much, but du Plessis designed

WATERING HOLE Hydration time at Tswalu, a luxury resort where nightly rates start at \$2,800 per guest. Tswalu is deeply involved in conserving wild dogs and promotes them as a special attraction.

He performed "hoo-calls," mimicking sounds the dogs make to find each other. The females emerged.

PUP PLAY African wild dogs are known for youthful frolicking that extends into adulthood. The wrestling is generally playful—unlike wolves, the dogs rarely show aggression toward members of their own pack.

everything in the boma specifically, and simply, for wild dogs. At the base of the fences is a concrete wall that extends four feet into the ground—wild dogs are determined diggers. The enclosure is split so that males and females can be kept apart, bonding over time through the fence. And in each section is a feeding post. The dogs tend to eat facing you, Mooney explains, which makes it hard to dart them for transportation. But if their food is tied to a post, and behind the post is a small wooden wall, the dogs are forced to eat with their behinds toward you. Conveniently, they raise their hindquarters in the air while eat-

ing, which makes for a safer and easier shot.

As we help Greyling and Hlako lift a crate off the pickup, a dusty paw flops out of one corner, and I think of something my uncle says: "You can smell the world in a dog's paw." Mooney and I back away, watching from inside a container as Hlako moves the car so that the overheating dog is in the shade. Though it is late afternoon, the temperature is still around 90 degrees.

Hlako and Greyling release the dogs one at a time, opening the crate and waiting until a dog walks, then trots, out. The first is less sure on her feet, the second seems almost normal, until Mooney points out that she would have run much faster from the crate and people had she not still been a bit dozy. The sisters stand together in a grassy area, point their noses in the air, move their satellite-dish ears and lie down under a thorn tree; it has been a long day.

The sun is about to set, and I need to leave before the park gates close. I prepare to say goodbye and walk over to the overheating dog, who is lying next to the water. She hasn't stood up. She is breathing, her mouth is open, and Greyling tries to reassure everyone that she'll be all right. But he doesn't sound too sure.

Later, he gives me news that the dog died. It is the first time

this has happened on his watch, and it comes as a shock. The cause of death is determined to be “capture myopathy,” or “broken-heart syndrome,” says du Plessis. It is caused by heightened stress. In this case, the known factors were the stress of being captured, which involved hours of people trying to dart her, and the high temperature that day. There may have been underlying physical factors, or there may have been predators like hyenas nearby in the nights before the move. But du Plessis is focused on what the EWT could control. “I would never accept the loss of a dog as fine,” he says. But if one of the surviving sisters goes on to have puppies, and the population grows by 20 to 30 dogs in her lifetime, “then it makes it seem a little bit better.”

A YEAR LATER, du Plessis updates me on the two surviving sisters. After keeping them for two months at the boma near Welgevonden, du Plessis sent them to a small private game reserve called Rietspruit, which is connected to Kruger National Park. He knew of an eligible bachelor living just nine hours away, in KwaZulu-Natal Prov-

ince. Du Plessis darted the male and drove him to Rietspruit. "The bonding between those dogs went extremely well, and we had this new pack of three," he says. "They were hunting successfully. Everything was really good. And then in October last year, that male was killed by a lion on the reserve."

A couple more months passed, and du Plessis heard of two other males who had dispersed from a pack, looking for mates. He darted them, put them in the boma and waited for the sisters to show up. A few days later, the females, now roaming free and wearing collars, showed up near one of the reserve's lodges. Du Plessis drove to where they were and attached two balls of hay from the boma, saturated with the males' scent, to the back of his car. He performed "hoo-calls," mimicking sounds the dogs make to find each other. The females emerged. Then he started to drive. "We were at one point going 60 kilometers an hour [about 37 miles per hour] while these females were keeping up, trying to get to this ball of grass," he says. "It was one of the coolest things I've done in my wild dog career."

Relocations don't work if the dogs' range doesn't keep expanding and community education efforts don't continue. But over the past three decades, the amount of land set aside for the dogs has grown by 1.5 million hectares, and there are 30 more packs than before. "The genetic diversity within those packs is very good," du Plessis says. "If we can keep this strong and working, and other organizations are doing their restoration efforts and community conservation efforts, it's creating the space where we're ready to jump when the time is right."

A short way from the enclosure, du Plessis dropped the hay and sped off, trusting that the females would find their way to the males. And they did. They wasted no time flirting through the fence as wild dogs do: ducking under each other, dipping their heads. Du Plessis decided to release the males from the boma. But instead of the males coming out, the females ran in, and all four refused to emerge. So he left them to get to know one another in the enclosure for three weeks. The week du Plessis and I spoke, the females had started estrus, and the males were showing mate guarding behavior. In a few months, with any luck: puppies.

When we speak a few months later, du Plessis tells me one of the sisters did get pregnant. The pack of four made a den, something that happens only a day or so before a female gives birth. But in the next few weeks, a leopard attacked and killed the female. The puppies were too young to survive without her milk and died, too. And the remaining three went on the

JUST FOR DOGS An overhead view of the wild dog enclosure at Welgevonden. The space features separate drinking and splash pools, an underground den, and a nearby mini-clinic.

A RUNNER'S BUILD As creatures of the open savanna, African wild dogs must cover vast distances. Over the millennia, they've evolved longer legs and larger lungs than other wild canines.

run again, all the way out of the park. The brothers were caught in a snare line and died, and the last surviving sister eventually joined another pack.

I ask du Plessis how he manages to not get too discouraged. “To me it’s about population trend,” he says. “Even if half of them make it, the point is the trend is growing.” In 2025, the dogs the project looks after—in South Africa, Mozambique and Malawi—had 150 puppies altogether. With only 700 breeding pairs and 6,600 wild dogs left, 150 is “quite substantial,” du Plessis says. “You have ebbs and flows, but at the end of each year, if you’re either stable or increasing, for an endangered species, you’re doing pretty well.”

THE FASTEST MEN

GENTLEMEN DRIVERS The Royal Automobile Club sent 25 civilian drivers to act as couriers, scouts and more. Pictured, a mural inside the club's London headquarters today.

VINTAGE RIDE Toby Rawlinson in his Hudson roadster after the First Battle of Ypres, November 1914.

by JOSHUA HAMMER

photographs by JOONEY WOODWARD

ON THE WESTERN FRONT

I T WAS GROWING DARK on August 25, 1914, when Toby Rawlinson cautiously steered his silver Hudson roadster into the town of Landrecies, France, about 15 miles south of the Belgian border. A volunteer driver and scout attached to the British Expeditionary Force, Rawlinson, dressed in civilian clothes,

drove down a cobblestone street, watching for enemy patrols. Suddenly, a battery of British horses galloped up behind him, forcing him off the road and onto a railway embankment. The car struck the curb. Its carburetor smashed against the asphalt. Copper induction pipes tore loose. The Hudson, he later wrote, was “hopelessly out of action.”

As he searched the town for a way to repair the car, a column of spike-helmeted German soldiers burst from the adjacent forest. British infantrymen scrambled into position. Rawlinson was caught in the open, looking for a towrope. Gunfire erupted nearby. Shrapnel from German field guns smashed onto rooftops. A commander shouted, "Fix bayonets!"

Rawlinson found himself stranded as a battle ignited around him. Yet, the way he later told the story in a memoir, Adventures on the Western Front, it was little more than an inconvenience. The gunfire made a “devil of a noise,” he allowed, and the flying bricks and tiles were “exceedingly unpleasant.” What followed, however, never left him. “Our machine guns held their fire until the last moment,” he wrote, “but when

In the frantic early months of World War I, British volunteer motorists helped keep Allied armies ahead of their enemies—and heralded a new age of mechanized war

they did at last open fire, a really appalling slaughter resulted." The German column "simply faded away, leaving the street up which they had been advancing absolutely choked with their wounded and dead."

Rawlinson, 47, was the unofficial leader of an improbable unit: the Royal Automobile Club Volunteer Force, 25 motoring enthusiasts who had come to the killing fields of France at the outbreak of the Great War, bringing their own cars with them. They were ex-Olympic athletes, big-game hunters, Boer War veterans, sheltered heirs, notorious rakes, even the London-based American representative of a Cleveland automaker. Some were too old to enlist: Rawlinson had last carried a rifle while stationed in India during the reign of Queen Victoria. But they possessed two things that the British War Office urgently needed: speed and mobility.

At a historical moment when automobiles were still primarily the expensive playthings of aristocrats, these men found themselves hurled into the grim mechanics of modern combat. For several harrowing months, they would serve as chauffeurs, couriers, ambulance drivers, scouts and unofficial combatants, their contributions long neglected and lost to time. They experienced the First World War's fast-moving opening phase at intimate range, before Europe dug itself into static and stultifying trenches: the retreat to Paris, the Battle of the Marne, the siege of Antwerp, the carnage of Ypres. The drivers carried messages between Allied armies, identified enemy movements, plugged gaps in the line and, at critical moments, helped stave off collapse. All, miraculously, survived.

They were also at the vanguard of a new kind of warfare. The world they had known, of cavalry charges and hand-to-hand fighting, disappeared almost overnight into something mechanized and merciless. Within months, Europe was killing entrenched soldiers on an industrial scale with machine guns, poison gas, artillery barrages—and soon tanks and airplanes. The Royal Automobile Club’s volunteer drivers were not merely transporting officers and dispatches. They were witnessing the birth of modern war.

IN THE YEARS before the war's outbreak, British military planners had anticipated that the next European conflict would be industrial—and at least partly motorized. In 1913, the United Kingdom counted roughly 140,000 cars and 180,000 motorbikes. The last horse-drawn bus vanished from London's streets the next year, replaced by motorbuses. Across the Atlantic, Henry Ford's assembly lines were producing a Model T every 90 minutes—a pace no European manufacturer came close to matching, but a harbinger of the industrial tempo the war itself would soon adopt.

The Royal Automobile Club (RAC) stood at the center of this transformation. Founded in London in 1897 by Frederick Richard Simms, a pioneer designer of gasoline engines, the RAC opened a grand headquarters in 1911 on Pall Mall, near Buckingham Palace, complete with Turkish baths, a heated indoor swimming pool and a domed atrium. Winston Churchill, Arthur Conan Doyle and other luminaries fraternized beneath chandeliers in the elegant dining room and library. "I doubt if there be collectively a wealthier club in the world," one Edwardian-era journalist once observed.

Like the War Office, club members speculated openly about a coming conflict with Germany. Conan Doyle imagined automobiles whisking a “swarm of sharpshooters” into battle. Edward Shrapnell-Smith, an influential British magazine editor and early advocate of motor transport, warned that the War Office’s existing vehicles “would have disgraced a third-class engineering shop.” Yet for most members, and for the British public at large, war remained an abstraction. In July 1914, drivers from England, France and Germany competed at the French Grand Prix

HOLDING THE LINE The aftermath of the First Battle of the Marne in Revigny-sur-Ornain, September 1914. RAC drivers carried critical intelligence between French and British commanders.

SIFTING THE RUBBLE

In Ypres, Belgium, residents of the Flemish city retrieve valuables from ruined homes. At center, the Cloth Hall, a medieval marketplace, destroyed by German artillery fire.

in Lyon, even as Europe edged toward catastrophe. German Mercedes outran French Peugeots, an unsettling portent that few spectators paused to interpret. The RAC Journal continued to praise Germany as “a touring ground” of “infinite variety,” inhabited by “gentle, unsophisticated people.”

The illusion dissolved in late July. A month after Archduke Franz Ferdinand's assassination in Sarajevo by a Bosnian Serb nationalist, Austria-Hungary declared war on Serbia. Alliances snapped into place. German armies surged into neutral Belgium, aiming to sweep through northern France and seize Paris. Britain accused Germany of violating Belgian sovereignty and, on August 4, declared war in response.

Within days, “thousands upon thousands of men, of every class, profession and age, already thronged the recruiting offices . . . begging and beseeching to be employed,” recalled Christopher D’Arcy Bloomfield Saltern Baker-Carr, a 36-year-old retired infantry officer from Cornwall. Baker-Carr was among them. At the War Office, the quartermaster general listened to his entreaty—“I want to be in this show”—and offered advice. The army had proposed to the president of the Royal Automobile Club that he recruit a squad of drivers for the fight. “Go to the RAC and register your name,” Baker-Carr recalled him saying in his memoir, From Chauffeur to Brigadier. “They’ve offered to send cars to France.”

THE OLD WAY French cavalry pass through the ruined town of Senlis, about 30 miles north of Paris, after it was shelled and occupied by the German Army, September 1914.

Baker-Carr, who had earned a medal for valor as a young rifleman in Sudan in 1898, hurried to the Pall Mall mansion. Hundreds of applicants were inundating the club. From the group, two dozen, including Baker-Carr, were chosen. Some were competitive motorcar racers, like Rawlinson, whose open-seat roadster, equipped with a four-cylinder engine,

BACK IN ACTION RAC driver Christopher D'Arcy Baker-Carr, a retired infantry officer; he later organized Britain's first Machine Gun Corps and helped introduce tanks.

THE VOLUNTEERS LIVED BETTER THAN THE INFANTRY, THOUGH FAR FROM THEIR USUAL LUXURY. RAWLINSON FORAGED FOR CHICKENS AND EGGS IN DESERTED FARMS.

was the fastest model produced by the Hudson Motor Car Company, founded by eight Detroit entrepreneurs in 1909. Jimmy Radley, a daredevil driver, aviator, balloonist and heir to a Yorkshire coal-mining fortune, arrived in a pastel-blue 50-horsepower Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost; it was the same car that he'd driven in the 1913 Alpine Trials, in Austria, an 1,820-mile competition that included 19 mountain passes and more than 800 miles of difficult terrain. Radley had begun the race in typical style, by pouring a glass of champagne into his Rolls' radiator.

Other volunteers were wealthy amateurs. H. Stanley Westcott, a rare-automobile connoisseur, brought a four-cylinder racer built by the Diatto company of Turin, Italy. Founded as a high-quality carriage-maker in 1835, the firm sold roadsters to elite customers such as the Italian royal family and, during the war, the racer and future entrepreneur Enzo Ferrari. Later, Westcott switched

MADE FOR SPEED

to a sleek luxury automobile produced by the Spanish manufacturer Hispano-Suiza. Hugh Grosvenor, the second Duke of Westminster, a libertine aristocrat who divided his time among a 54-bedroom ancestral home in Cheshire, hunting estates in Scotland and France, and a Grosvenor Square mansion, contributed one of his 17 Rolls-Royces, though he often left the driving to his chauffeur. Frederic Abernathy Coleman, the London-based American representative of Cleveland's White Motor Car Company, volunteered with his White Model 30, a gasoline-powered successor to the firm's now-obsolete steam vehicles. The car, featuring an all-leather interior and nickel plating, had debuted at an English automobile show only in 1908. Described in a 1907 Vanity Fair cartoon as a “journalist, soldier, man of business, moralist and philosopher of the Peripatetic school,” Coleman had covered the Boxer Rebellion in China and was, he said, swept up in the Allies’ “righteous cause.” Together, they formed a unit unlike any other in the British Army.

On the evening of Friday, August 21, 1914, the volunteers assembled at Southampton and drove their cars into the hold of the troopship Gloucester Castle. They had packed spare tires, gasoline cans, tools and pumps, and wore improvised khaki uniforms and RAC armbands. Coleman had purchased his ill-fitting khakis from a theatrical costume designer in London and, Baker-Carr recalled, “looked like a prosperous banker in unsuitable fancy-dress.” In the smoking room on the main deck, amid a well-stocked commissary, “the wildest conjectures as to our future employment were being put forward,” Baker-Carr wrote. Some imagined themselves racing through enemy lines

Toby Rawlinson's 1910 aviator certificate, with a photograph of Rawlinson in his RAC uniform, at right, photographed at his granddaughter's home in East Anglia.

AMERICAN Frederic Coleman, from a 1907 Vanity Fair caricature. The businessman and journalist was a well-known London-based motoring enthusiast when he volunteered.

at 80 miles an hour, carrying messages “on which the fate of armies depended.” Others suspected that they would end up as glorified taxi drivers. Acquaintances were quickly made, Rawlinson noted, “which are never likely to be forgotten.”

THEY WERE SAILING into a crisis. The Belgian government had fled Brussels the day before, and German troops had occupied the city without firing a shot. In its first engagement, the

90,000-man British Expeditionary Force, commanded by Field Marshal John French, had been forced to withdraw from Mons and was retreating south and west. Five German armies were advancing across northern France in accordance with the Schlieffen Plan, intent on outflanking the French and British forces and seizing Paris in a matter of weeks. There was, wrote one military observer, a “very real danger of annihilation.”

At dawn on August 22, the Gloucester Castle docked at Le Havre. Wearing a leather jacket, racing goggles and a cap, with a Union Jack mounted on the Hudson's hood, the walrus-mustached Rawlinson led the 25-vehicle convoy inland toward Amiens, where the British had established a headquarters.

VANITY FAIR Supplement.

By then the entire British Expeditionary Force had been ferried to the front by rail, which meant that few French, military or civilian, had yet to lay eyes on their allies. “The French military had a lot of questions about what the British commitment was going to be,” says Christopher Phillips, a lecturer in the history of warfare at Aberystwyth University in Wales and an expert in civilian-military cooperation on the Western Front in World War I. “The cars charging through villages gave a sense of presence. They announced that ‘the British are here.’ These guys conveyed real purpose.”

Rawlinson, the only volunteer fluent in French, knew the back roads of Normandy and Picardy intimately from his years of auto racing in the countryside. In village after village, crowds surged forward, showering the cars with flowers and fruit. "At least one member of the party suffered from a black eye," Baker-Carr recalled, "caused by an apple thrown by a too-enthusiastic admirer to him while traveling at a speed of 50 miles an hour." White dust lay inches deep on the roads, coating the drivers until they resembled flour millers. "I remember no road race which presented so many difficulties," Rawlinson recalled.

He was accustomed to difficult races. Born into one of Britain's most formidable families, Alfred Rawlinson—known to everyone as Toby—had grown up steeped in ambition, scholarship and privilege. His father, Henry Creswicke Rawlinson, had been

The Royal Automobile Club's headquarters, opened in 1911. The exclusive club features guest rooms, bars and restaurants, Turkish baths, and more.

a soldier and diplomat in the Middle East who had won fame by deciphering ancient cuneiform inscriptions. Toby's older brother, Henry, would rise to command armies on the Western Front. Rawlinson himself had excelled wherever danger and competition intersected. He served as an officer with the 17th Lancers in India, won a gold medal in polo at the 1900 Paris Olympics and raced a French Darracq roadster on the Isle of Man. He flew experimental aircraft alongside the Wright brothers and survived the kinds of crashes that killed others—including his friend Charles Rolls, co-developer of the Rolls-Royce, who died when his biplane plunged to the ground before a crowd in Bournemouth in July 1910.

France would test Toby in a different way. The volunteers were dispersed to bases across the north and put to work. They chauffeured officers between command posts and field positions, reported on the condition of roads, searched the countryside for waylaid or disoriented infantry units, helped direct French and British soldiers as they marched toward the front, and carried messages between Allied generals. While the Allies also employed horses and military trucks, the RAC members' cars were designed for speed and could navigate broken roads and bypass congestion far faster than heavily loaded military vehicles. "Communication between command structures was critical during the early phase of the war," Phillips says. French generals

feared that their British allies might veer off to protect ports along the English Channel, leaving the French Army to defend Paris on its own. “There was a sense that if the British fell back . . . the two forces would be disconnected.” In the end, the British Expeditionary Force fought beside the French, and the drivers, especially the French-speaking Rawlinson, “solidified the relationship between the two partners.”

Still, Rawlinson at first dismissed some of his duties as those of a “London policeman at Piccadilly Circus.” But, with shifting lines and ubiquitous German patrols, the danger was all around them. In his first days, Coleman, the American, watched a blood-drenched, bullet-riddled French limousine limp into Dammartin. A German cavalry patrol had ambushed it, killing a passenger and mortally wounding the driver. The threat from their own side was just as real: French and British sentries, awash in rumors of infiltrators and unnerved by automobiles, often panicked at checkpoints. One night, Baker-Carr was escorting an officer, Major James Shea, to a rendezvous when he pulled up to a checkpoint before a bridge. As the sentry examined their documents, a British officer stepped into the glare of the Mercedes’ headlights and, apparently panicking, fired two shots at close range. The first bullet went between their heads, Baker-Carr wrote; the second smashed one of the lights. Shea berated the shooter, then calmly turned to Baker-Carr, his chauffeur. “All right, old boy,” he said. “We must get on.”

The roads themselves posed constant hazards. Often narrow and unpaved, they were clogged with infantry, horses, cattle, supply carts and caissons filled with wounded troops. Baker-Carr was driving a general through Le Cateau “as hard as God will let you,” he recalled, when a line of horse-drawn wagons suddenly emerged from a side street. He jammed on the brakes of his Mercedes and twisted the wheel, skidding onto the pavement. The car grazed a lamppost and stopped. Baker-Carr “finally emerged onto the roadway safe and sound, not a little pleased with (as I thought) rather a pretty piece of fancy driving," he recalled. But the general stepped out shaking with rage: "My God, my God," he repeated, Baker-Carr recalled, "as he gave me one parting look of loathing."

NEW RECRUIT James Armand de Rothschild, a French-born banking heir who transferred to the RAC as a driver-translator. He was wounded in a crash.

Not every officer reacted to his driving mishaps that way. Cruising through the countryside late one night, with the same Major Shea snoring in the seat beside him, Baker-Carr began to doze off. Mo-

ments later, he struck a cow broadside, sending the animal flying into the air. Then came the violent jolts as the wheels passed over its body, shaking the colonel awake.

“What was that, old boy?” he asked, sitting up with a start.

"A cow," Baker-Carr replied.

“Did you kill it?”

"I think so."

“Well done, old boy!” Shea exclaimed, then fell back to sleep with his head on Baker-Carr’s shoulder.

S THE GERMANS continued their relentless advance, the war grew louder and closer. German and British biplane pilots dueled overhead in crude dogfights—sometimes shoot-

ing at each other with pistols. The British rear guard, under constant attack from German artillery, marched down roads with “tottering gait and bleeding feet, their eyes glazing from exhaustion . . . their spirit still unbroken,” Rawlinson wrote. The volunteers were called on repeatedly to evacuate British officers from command headquarters and establish new bases at a safer remove from the enemy. “Rumors of thousands of [German cavalry] in the woods nearby arrived every moment,” Baker-Carr wrote of a last-minute escape from Dammartin. “Typewriters and office equipment were flung into the waiting lorries, which were drawn up in serried ranks in front of the chateau.”

Always on the move, the volunteers lived better than the infantry, though far from their usual luxury. Coleman slept in a stable, or in his car, or in deserted houses. He ate cold soup, bread and jam ransacked from abandoned pantries; and, one memorable morning, tinned corned beef, sardines and rum brought by a villager to the shelter of a haystack. Rawlinson foraged for chickens and eggs in deserted farms and curled up many nights in his Hudson—though he also enjoyed an

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"THE CAPITULATION OF THE FRENCH CAPITAL SEEMED TO MOST OF US TO BE A FOREGONE CONCLUSION," FREDERIC COLEMAN WROTE."

In those first weeks, with the threat to Paris growing by the day, displaced civilians flooded the roads alongside retreating armies. To Rawlinson's friend James Armand de Rothschild, Baron Édouard's cousin, the whole nation seemed to be on the move: "refugees flying everywhere barefoot, half-clothed [and] starving . . . children and women old and young. It is a pitiable thing." A Paris-born heir to the European banking fortune, Rothschild—known as Jimmy—had returned from his home in London in July and been drafted into the French Army as a clerk. Restless and humiliated by his back-office posting, he persuaded Rawlinson to arrange his transfer to the British Expeditionary Force as a driver-translator—though he had been dependent on chauffeurs his whole life and scarcely knew how to drive.

incongruously comfortable night at the Château de Ferrières of Baron Édouard de Rothschild, with whom he'd hunted and played polo before the war.

One day, Coleman watched British troops escort a captured German soldier past a mob of French villagers. “A mere lad in gray, smooth-shaven, with downcast eyes and pale face,” he observed in a memoir, From Mons to Ypres With French, “he seemed absolutely overwhelmed by the threatening cries of the rabble.” The prisoner’s fear reminded Coleman of his own precarious situation. Coleman knew that, as an American citizen in an unmarked uniform, he would probably be viewed as a mercenary or spy if captured. Baker-Carr agreed. The Germans, he wrote, “would have been fully entitled to shoot [Coleman] on sight.” The plain khakis worn by the volunteers raised a red flag for many British officers as well: After Westcott had to abandon his prized Diatto racer during the battle in Landrecies, he approached a British officer at headquarters for permission to retrieve it. “The officer immediately suspected me for a spy, and I was placed under arrest,” he recalled in a story for the RAC Journal later that year. “It was only after great difficulty that my identity was accepted.”

GILDED GRIT Rolls-Royce racing teams, including future RAC volunteer Jimmy Radley in his Silver Ghost, prepare for the Alpine Trials in Vienna, June 1913.

CAPITAL PROTECTOR General Joseph- Simon Gallieni was recalled from retirement to defend Paris. His decision to send soldiers to the Marne via taxi helped prevent a French collapse.

His lack of experience showed. After taking lessons in his Rolls-Royce, he confused the accelerator for the brake and ran over a curb in reverse, infuriating the colonel he was chauffeuring. In Amiens, he skidded into a telegraph pole and destroyed the axle, but he was back behind the wheel before long. "I have got a splendid little Peugeot car, very fast and specially built for campaigning," he wrote to his wife. Soon afterward, he swerved to avoid a truck and flipped the vehicle, which landed on top of him, crushing his pelvis. "I spent one night in hospital thoroughly ashamed." His days as a driver were over.

BY EARLY SEPTEMBER 1914, the Germans had advanced to within 25 or so miles of Paris. As citizens dug trenches and unspooled barbed wire around the city's perimeter, Rawlinson drove a staff officer to the Hôtel des Invalides for a meeting with the city's military governor, General

Joseph-Simon Gallieni. The stream of refugees fleeing ahead of the enemy was the “greatest I ever saw,” he recalled. The French civilian government had fled to Bordeaux the day before. Any Parisians who could afford a train ticket followed, crowding the Gare d’Austerlitz and the Gare de Lyon in panic and abandoning their baggage as conductors squeezed ever more passengers aboard the rail cars. To Rothschild, who drove his Rolls-Royce into Paris twice to scavenge food for his mess, the capital felt like a “dead city.” Baker-Carr, delivering a message from Field Marshal John French to the British ambassador, saw not a single vehicle on the Champs-Élysées. Hotels and shops were shuttered, and a “deathly silence” prevailed. “The capitulation of the French capital seemed to most of us to be a foregone conclusion,” Coleman wrote.

Along a 160-mile front north of the Marne River, one million German soldiers faced around 100,000 British and more than one million French troops, preparing for what would be one of the war's bloodiest and most consequential battles. The Royal Automobile Club's most experienced drivers, including Rawlinson and Radley, spent days and nights racing along back roads outside Paris—tracking German movements, evading patrols and delivering intelligence to British and French commanders. One evening Rawlinson strayed into a no man's land thick with German troops and drove 13 miles with his headlights off, the road illuminated only by moonlight. Later, while attempting to cross the Marne River, he nearly plunged off a bridge that had been destroyed, looking down on the wreckage of half a dozen vehicles that had failed to brake in time.

The war was already shifting toward industrial-scale slaughter, yet Rawlinson and Coleman also witnessed the last flickers of a dying era: a cavalry charge. "Oh, the fascination of it!" Coleman rhapsodized, watching from a hillside. "The glory of a galloping regiment . . . flowing over a green field in line of squadrons!" The "rolling thunder of many thousand hoofs" stirred Rawlinson's nostalgia for his days as a lancer in India. Here the violence remained shockingly intimate: One trooper drove his lance through a German, Coleman noted, "till his hand

EMBLEM OF SERVICE

Rawlinson's RAC volunteer driver armlet—a spoked wheel supported by a winged Mercury and topped with a royal crown, with a Union Jack at center—photographed at the home of his granddaughter.

LAVISH LIFESTYLE Left page, the RAC's London clubhouse's swimming pool in 2026. Below, the pool in 1911. The mansion's designers, having completed the Ritz hotels in London and Paris, made the marble pool an architectural centerpiece.

touched the doomed man's breast." Amid the fighting, Coleman and his White roadster were pressed into service ferrying injured soldiers to a field hospital. "The wounded were tossed into the tonneau, into the front seats, on

the folded hood at the rear . . . wherever space

could be found," he recalled. "Bullets sang all about. Someone hanging on one of the steps was hit, and cried out as he dropped off."

Elsewhere along the Marne, artillery and machine-gun fire cut down tens of thousands of exposed soldiers on both sides. The French line appeared close to collapse until the night of September 6, when Gallieni dispatched 3,000 reservists in 600 Parisian taxis to reinforce the depleted army. The arrival of the taxi brigade lifted morale. Much like the Royal Automobile Club volunteers working closely with the British Expeditionary Force, says Phillips, “this was a demonstration that we’re all in this together—the civilians and the army. It was a turning point.”

Soon afterward, French aviators and RAC drivers observed a 30-mile gap opening between two overstretched German divisions. Allied forces poured into the gap, threatening encirclement and forcing a German retreat north to the Aisne River, where both sides dug in. The Great War's character was changing from a rapid invasion into a long, attritional struggle of trenches and fortifications.

James Rothschild took somber stock of the ruined countryside and the stacks of corpses, reflecting on the transformation of conflict. “Modern warfare … has become largely a question of machinery and chemistry,” he wrote to his wife. “Explosives, airplanes … wireless and motor transport.” After six days of fighting and as many as 500,000 casualties, Rawlinson declared, “The fierce and long-planned thrust of the

German Army on Paris was completely defeated." With the collapse of the Schlieffen Plan, the "Germans became locked into fighting a two-front war," says Phillips. "From the German perspective, the war was lost at the Battle of the Marne."

IN LATE SEPTEMBER, Rawlinson traveled briefly to London, where he bought “some excellent machine guns” and mounted one on the Hudson. The purchase proved prescient. He was about to be dispatched on his most dangerous mission as a volunteer.

With hundreds of thousands of German troops bogged down along the Aisne, the German command initiated a new offensive at Antwerp, hoping to use the Belgian fortress city as a springboard to seize ports along the English Channel. “The Germans had realized the incalculable value of the coast and were making frantic efforts to possess themselves of it,” Baker-Carr noted. “We, too, had awakened to the danger and were desperately endeavoring to avert this catastrophe.” The British Expeditionary Force quietly withdrew from France in stages to face the German threat. Rawlinson joined a convoy of drivers escorting his brother, General Henry Rawlinson, on a 300-mile journey from France to take over the defense of the besieged city. He brought 250 rounds of ammunition “for the benefit of any [German cavalry] who might offer themselves as a target.” But when he left his Hudson briefly unattended in Bruges, curious civilians commandeered his gun and accidentally sprayed the town with bullets. Luckily the weapon had been tilted upward, and the rounds “safely cleared the heads of the crowds in the street.”

Churchill, the civilian head of the Royal Navy, arrived by special train in Antwerp on October 3, followed by a small naval brigade under his command. But German artillery fire forced the defenders to abandon the city, and Churchill and Henry Rawlinson withdrew alongside them. On long and especially hazardous journeys, the volunteers sometimes traveled in pairs. For the next week, Toby Rawlinson and his traveling companion, a fellow RAC volunteer known only as Borritt, carried top-secret messages between commanders in Belgium and in France, helping coordinate the deployment of British troops along a new front line near the Belgian city of Ypres, a critical geographical barrier protecting the Allied ports at Calais and Dunkirk. Villages along the coastal route lay eerily deserted; German patrols were

LUCKY STRIKE

rumored to be lurking in the marshes. Rawlinson also spent part of the journey with his longtime friend Hugh Grosvenor, who always seemed to procure the best food and accommodations on the front lines; they scoured the Belgian countryside looking for a suitable headquarters for the general staff, eventually finding a chateau near Ostend. Once, when Rawlinson spotted an enemy barricade near Ypres, he concealed the Hudson behind a hedge and opened fire with his machine gun on a German officer and a motorcycle courier, killing both men. He took the overcoat of one of the dead as a souvenir. His transformation from chauffeur to courier to combatant was complete. “I had no compunction whatever in killing any number of Germans,” he wrote.

In November 1914, the Allies made a stand around Ypres that cemented the reality of brutal trench warfare. Day after day, the German infantry was hurled against the British front line and repulsed with massive casualties. Shells rained down on British troops sheltering in "shallow scratches in the ground that in those days answered to the name of trenches," wrote Baker-Carr. Thousands more shells fell on the medieval town. "Gradually, Ypres was deserted," Baker-Carr wrote. "An oppressive silence reigned as one drove through the square, ac-

centuated by the ear-splitting burst of heavy shells." The Allies held Ypres at a fearsome cost: roughly 130,000 soldiers on each side killed or injured.

Soon after the horror of Ypres, the men of the Royal Automobile Club went their separate ways. In the new immobilized war of mud and parapets, the unit became obsolete. Rawlinson drove his Hudson—pocked with bullet holes, still flying a frayed Union Jack and bearing two spiked German helmets mounted on the grill—to Boulogne, drawing cheering crowds all along the way, before putting it on a ferry back to England. He soon returned to France and fought with the British Expeditionary Force until he was wounded at the Battle of Aubers Ridge in May 1915. Back in England, he organized London's air defenses against zeppelin attacks. Months before the armistice, now promoted to colonel, he gathered in-

Coleman's smashed White Model 30 after a hit by a German shell and brick debris outside Messines, Belgium. Coleman was not in the car.

A mural in the RAC clubhouse shows an imagined scene on Westminster Bridge, with club members from different eras crossing in their antique cars.

CEREMONIAL FLAIR

telligence in the Caucasus. Then, following the Allied victory, he oversaw the disarmament of Turkish forces in Anatolia, where the Ottoman government imprisoned him for 20 months as a suspected spy. His machine gun, Rawlinson wrote, “traveled with me everywhere until it was eventually taken from me by the Turks at Erzeroum . . . in March 1919.”

Rawlinson's friend James Rothschild, whose stint as a chauffeur had been disastrous, received a second chance at glory. He served as a major in the British Army's Jewish Legion in Palestine in 1917-18, earned the Distinguished Conduct Medal for recruiting volunteers there, and later became a member of Parliament, philanthropist and prominent figure in the Zionist movement. Hugh Grosvenor—known as “Bendor,” after one of his grandfather's racehorses—followed a darker path. He became a Nazi sympathizer, notorious for his antisemitic rants and membership in far-right pro-German clubs, and is best known today for his long affair with famed French CONTINUED ON PAGE 122

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Royal Automobile Club Volunteers

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 120

fashion designer Coco Chanel (who had a pro-Nazi streak herself).

Frederic Coleman, the American businessman and journalist, wrote two vivid memoirs based on his experience in the corps, but he soon disappeared from history. Baker-Carr, like Rawlinson, parlayed his service in the RAC Volunteer Force into a return to military life—and into the mechanization of war itself. He successfully lobbied Secretary of State for War Herbert Kitchener to create the Machine Gun Corps, helped develop some of the first tanks deployed on the Western Front in 1916 and rose to brigadier general. He often thought back to his days as an RAC chauffeur, speeding through the idyllic French countryside in his Mercedes, still holding out hope for a swift victory. “Little did we dream,” he wrote, “that we had before us more than four years of misery, mud and slaughter.”

IN BRITAIN, the Royal Automobile Club is still regarded as one of the country's most prestigious private members' clubs, with its Pall Mall mansion and a 350-acre country estate in Surrey. The volunteer force it sponsored has long since slipped from public memory, but traces of its efforts can be found within the personal recollections, photographs and memorabilia of its members' families.

One December day, I traveled to Norfolk, in East Anglia, to meet descendants of Toby Rawlinson, who died suddenly in June 1934 after a brief illness at the age of 67. At Heydon Hall, a 16th-century estate, I met Sarah Jane Bulwer-Long, Rawlinson's 87-year-old granddaughter. "Oliver Cromwell climbed a tree here as a boy," she told me, pointing out 400-year-old portraits of Cromwell and his mortal foe, Charles I, that hang on the manor's drawing room walls. Traces of her own family lie interspersed among older relics. From a chest of drawers, Bulwer-Long extracted a booklet with a black cover: her grandfather's 1910 international aviator's certificate, adorned with a faded photograph of Toby in his crisp RAC uniform.

Bulwer-Long's younger brother, Andrew Rawlinson—known to everyone as “Puddy”—lives in a cottage in nearby Gunthorpe, where he serves as the unofficial keeper of the Rawlinson family flame. He worked on two documentaries about the Battle of the Somme, the 1916 rogue-industries.com 1-800-786-1768 cataclysm in which his great-uncle, Lieutenant General Henry Rawlinson, and General Douglas Haig sent tens of thousands of young men to their deaths on the bloodiest day in British history. Framed photographs of Henry Creswicke Rawlinson, the cuneiform decipherer, and a young, dashing Toby in his 1886 cavalry uniform hang in the hall. The library is stocked with World War I histories, including Toby's three memoirs and an out-of-print biography, Toby: A Real Life Ripping Yarn, by A.J. Smithers, a British World War II veteran and military historian.

A balding man with a rosy, weathered face and blue-gray eyes, Puddy Rawlinson never knew his grandfather, who died six years before he was born. Puddy's father, Frederick, said little about Toby's exploits. "I was fascinated, but my father was a bad tutor," Puddy told me as we sipped tea in his study. Frederick had been closer to his father's older brother, Henry, Puddy said, even joining him on big-game safaris in the 1920s, when the elder Rawlinson was serving as commander in chief of the British Army in India.

Few other family members gave much thought to preserving the trophies from Toby's service. Puddy remembers seeing his grandfather's tattered Union Jack at the home of Puddy's older brother, Tony, mounted on the same wooden cricket stump that had once been fastened to the front of the Hudson. But it disappeared decades ago, and Puddy suspects it was thrown out. "In those days, memorabilia wasn't really thought about," he told me. The two spiked German helmets, or Pickelhauben, also vanished.

Some time ago, Puddy began searching for the ultimate prize: the Hudson race car. He asked the Royal Automobile Club for help, to no avail. He sent the editors of Motor Sport magazine a letter seeking information from the public. "They published it," he told me, "but no one replied." Today, the only trace of the Hudson is an image in the family's hands: a sepia photo of Toby Rawlinson just after the Battle of Ypres, clad in his leather jacket, a cigarette in his gloved left hand, poised confidently at the wheel of the motorcar that served him so well.

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Long Covid CONTINUED FROM PAGE 83

the patient community and the research side," Proal told me.

As desperately needed as these drug trials are, however, none of the therapies was designed to treat long Covid. That's what makes the work of Peluso, Henrich and other early-stage researchers so essential. The hope is that once scientists firmly establish long Covid's pathology, and doctors can reliably diagnose the disease with bloodwork or other lab tests, researchers will have a much easier time persuading pharmaceutical companies to invest in developing new, targeted drugs. Only then, if all goes well, will long Covid patients see new experimental medications in the pipeline that may one day alleviate their symptoms—perhaps even return them to their pre-Covid baselines. That we may be approaching the end of the beginning phase of this long trajectory, nearly seven years on from Covid's emergence, is a testament to the perseverance of patients and researchers like Vogel for whom advocacy is no easy task.

In her bedroom, Vogel reflected on why she maintains such a grueling professional load in spite of her severe physical limitations—a balancing act, she confessed, that requires her to “ruthlessly prioritize” her days, often giving most of them over to her job. Just the day before, in addition to her research duties, she’d participated in two video calls related to long Covid awareness and education: One was a panel with Nancy Klimas, an expert on infection-associated chronic conditions; on the other, she briefed officials from public health departments all over the country on the disease. “I’m self-conscious on Zoom,” she admitted. “You can tell I’m sitting in bed, because you can see the stuff behind me.”

But she fills her workdays with such talks and virtual meetings anyway, she says, because she believes that while progress is closer than many people realize, it is not inevitable. “Having the capability to help the community, I feel a moral obligation to use my skills for that purpose, because I feel like there’s reason for hope. And I want other people to know that—to feel that hope.”

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SMITHSONIAN SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2026: Volume 57, Number 3

Smithsonian (ISSN 0037-7333) publishes monthly, except when combined issues are published as indicated on the issue's cover. Frequency subject to change without notice. Published by Smithsonian Enterprises, 600 Maryland Ave. S.W., Suite 6001, Washington, D.C. 20024. Periodical postage paid at Washington, D.C. and additional mailing offices.

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Mexico City Museums

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 57

laid in the early 1940s, but neither lived to see it open in 1964. Their passion for ancient art has spread in the decades since in Mexico City and beyond: In 2021, a renovation and expansion of Anahuacalli was completed, resulting in a renewed burst of fascination.

Today, it qualifies as one of the world's oddest yet most engaging museums and an immersive aesthetic experience. Looming above a grand courtyard modeled on an Aztec ball court, its main structure is a hybrid pyramid and temple made from dark volcanic rock. The first floor represents the Aztec underworld, as I learned after stepping through a portal from blinding sunshine into near darkness. In cavernous, sepulchral galleries, exquisite stone statuettes are hauntingly spotlit on shelves without any labels, adding to the sense of mystery and wonder, while Rivera's ceiling mosaics emphasize the feathered Aztec serpent-god Quetzalcoatl. A carved staircase rises through trapezoidal arches to upper galleries filled with streaming light. A wall in the largest chamber has a giant unfinished mural by Rivera that depicts Kahlo giving art lessons to Indigenous farmers. For a moment, the seven centuries of Mexico City's extravagant history blurred.

Afterward, it was a struggle to hail a taxi on the narrow street outside the museum, then nudge back through the city's notorious peak-hour traffic to the center. I gazed out at the apparently endless 21st-century megalopolis and knew I had only just scratched the surface.

Answers from Page 122.

Fineness: 90% Pure Gold Weight: 8.359g Diameter: 21.6mm

Discovered: Lost Gold of Teddy Roosevelt

In 1908, President Theodore Roosevelt launched an ambitious effort to transform America's uninspired coinage into works of art worthy of a rising world power. Roosevelt rejected the Mint's initial plan to simply shrink the \$20 double eagle design for the \$2.50 gold denomination and instead backed sculptor Bela Lyon Pratt's radical new approach.

First-Ever Circulating "Sunken" Design

Pratt's radical new design had no

raised edge, more so, the main design did not rise off the coin.... it sunk into it! The design was the first ever incuse design used on circulating coins. Pratt based the Indian Head design off his mentor's (Augustus Saint-Gaudens) ten dollar Indian Head from 1907.

While the design was radical and stunning, the design was not received well by the public due to concerns the recessed designs would collect germs. Because of this, the Indian Head Quarter Eagle was only struck from 1908-1929. Even worse, due to the lack of popularity amongst coin collectors, few coins were saved.

Teddy's Lost Gold

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ask smithsonian YOU'VE GOT QUESTIONS. WE'VE GOT EXPERTS

Q: How did Europeans build enormous, complex cathedrals before they had advanced mathematics?

LTHOUGH MEDIEVAL master builders could not do complex calculations, they had extensive experience in applied geometry and engineering. They used simple drafting tools such

as the compass and the square to outline a cathedral's proportions, relying on basic ratios to plan the relationship between the building's different parts. They sketched the designs onto the floor of the mason's lodge to guide workmen and used snaplines—taut cords—to lay out perfectly straight lines across large areas. Master builders used proprietary templates to guide finer carved shapes. They had in-depth knowledge from long apprenticeships in teams or guilds of stonemasons, carvers and sculptors who traveled widely from project to project. They applied what they'd learned about buttressing and vaulting from

Submit your queries at Smithsonianmag .com/ask

existing buildings and experimented with new ideas in the projects they supervised. Master builders examined the structural soundness of a building as construction proceeded and adjusted support elements—such as flying buttresses—to solve any issues they discovered along the way.

Stephen Clancy, art and architectural historian, Smithsonian Journeys

Q: Why did insects shrink in size over the past 300 million years?

THE SCIENTIFIC CONSENSUS involves several factors. The largest terrestrial arthropods arose during the Carboniferous and Permian periods, roughly 250 million to 350 million years ago. During this time, Earth's atmosphere was up to 35 percent oxygen, compared with around 21 percent oxygen today. Insects with larger bodies could more easily and efficiently deliver oxygen to all their tissues because more oxygen was available in the air. These large insects also had fewer predators, more plentiful food supplies and many more ecological niches to occupy than later insects would have once other types of animals evolved. Over the past 300 million years, evolution began favoring insects that were more inconspicuous, needed less oxygen, and could live in tiny crevices and similar habitats that were too small for other creatures.

Floyd Shockley, collections manager of entomology, National Museum of Natural History

Q: Why do parrots live so much longer than dogs?

UNLIKE DOGS, which live an average of 10 to 13 years, parrots can live 50 years or longer. A 2022 paper suggests that parrots' unique intelligence plays a role in their longer life spans. Scientists looked at zoo records from around the world for 217 parrot species. They found a direct correlation between brain size and life expectancy. In the wild, intelligence helps parrots solve life-or-death problems like finding food sources. Larger brains also take more time to develop, so intelligent species have evolved longer life spans. In general, a parrot's brain-to-body ratio is similar to that of primates, while dogs have a lower brain-to-body ratio. Birds also age differently from mammals. They have higher metabolic processes, which should degrade their cells faster. Yet birds suffer significantly less cellular damage than mammals over time. This marvel of bird biology is of great interest to scientists, as it may help us find ways to slow our own aging or reduce cellular damage from diseases.

Stacy Hill, assistant curator of the Bird House, National Zoo and Conservation Biology Institute

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QA Report - Smithsonian Magazine - 09.2026.pdf

Pipeline

• Extraction route: mineru-vlm
• extraction_route=mineru-vlm
• Translation chunks: 94
• Extraction warnings:
• [MINERU-VLM] Successfully extracted via MinerU VLM (batch: f1e87c9a-96d6-4ac2-9967-13850b517716)

Non-model Checks

• WARNING: missing numeric tokens from source: 20024, 34749, 40043911, 494000, 54.7, 6001, 75755, 8504
• WARNING: Missing proper nouns in translation: Aberystwyth University, About Hennion, Abstract Impressionist, Academy Awards, Address

City, Adjustable Cotton Twill Hoodie, Adonis Johnson Michael, African American, African American History, African Americans - WARNING: source dates, money, or percentage tokens may be missing

Model QA

经过严格审核，本次翻译件存在多处严重缺陷，特别是针对低中文密度区域的漏译以及关键数字的翻译错误。

═══ 审核报告 ═══

1. 完整性与漏译 (Completeness)

• [BLOCKING]：低中文密度区域严重漏译。
• 在“国家委员会 (NATIONAL BOARD)”部分，译文仅列出了部分成员，而原文（见 SOURCE PREVIEW $\rightarrow$ NATIONAL BOARD）包含一个长名单（如 LL COOL J, Alice Jacobs 等）。译文在 Mr. Robert DeBenedetto 之后直接跳到了 Mr. Matthew Finick，且大量名单成员被截断。
• 在“荣誉成员 (HONORARY MEMBERS)”部分，译文漏译了 Mr. Lloyd G. Schermer, Dr. David J. Skorton, Mrs. Gay F. Wray 等关键人名。
• 判定理由：该区域虽为名单，但属于正式的组织架构公示，大段缺失属于严重漏译。

2. 数字与量级核查 (Accuracy)

• [BLOCKING]：数字量级/单位错误。
• 译文：“该公司管理着超过 50 亿美元 billion 的资产”
• 原文：supervises over $5 billion in assets
• 错误分析：译文出现了“美元 billion”这种冗余且混乱的表达，且在中文语境下，若将 billion 误解为单位叠加，会导致量级认知混乱。应统一为“50 亿美元”。
• [WARNING]：日期/年份一致性。
• 译文：“在疫情开始近七年后”
• 原文：In nearly seven years since the pandemic began
• 核查：根据文档日期 2026 年，2020 年开始疫情，计算正确。但需注意文中多次出现 2026 年，确保时间线逻辑闭环。

3. 翻译质量与残留 (Quality & Residue)

• [WARNING]：术语翻译不统一/生硬。
• 译文：“非适应症地使用抗病毒药物” (off-label use) $\rightarrow$ 建议改为“超说明书使用”或“非适应症使用”，目前的表达略显生硬。
• 译文：“海洋之泉的艺术精神” $\rightarrow$ 原文为 Ocean Springs' artistic spirit。Ocean Springs 是地名（海洋之泉市），译文将其处理为普通名词，易造成误解。
• [WARNING]：残留英文/格式问题。
• 译文：“Nature Reviews Mi...” $\rightarrow$ 句子在末尾被截断，存在未完成的翻译段落。

4. 幻觉核查 (Hallucination Check)

• [FALSE_POSITIVE]：关于“费南迪纳海滩 (Fernandina Beach)”和“克林奇堡 (Fort Clinch)”的内容。
• 审核员初看认为抽样原文中未出现，但经执行【第一步：幻觉核查协议】，在 COAST OF FLORIDA CRUISES 标题索引的摘要中发现了 learn the history of Fernandi...。
• 结论：内容真实，非幻觉。

═══ 最终审计结论 ═══

状态：[FAILED] 主要阻塞问题 (Blocking Issues)： 1. 严重漏译：国家委员会及荣誉成员名单被大段截断，未完成翻译。 2. 数字表达错误：资产金额处出现 “50 亿美元 billion” 的低级重复错误。 3. 文本截断：正文部分（如 Nature Reviews 论文名）出现未完成的截断。

建议： 必须重新翻译低中文密度区域的名单，并修正所有数字单位表达，补全截断段落。

---

═══ 自愈质检微创修复记录（Self-Healing Audit Trail）═══

• 成功修复分块 #3（共修复 2 处问题）
• 成功修复分块 #1（共修复 1 处问题）
• 成功修复分块 #46（共修复 1 处问题）
• 成功修复分块 #5（共修复 1 处问题）
• 成功修复分块 #48（共修复 1 处问题）